Apex conversion to GHL
- Thread starter Billldg
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OP
OP
Billldg
My Gem Tang Is Watching You
Now that I have a week or so of Alk data, I compared the GHL KHD and the Apex Trident. I found that the GHL is more stable while the Trident swings are wider. I found that the GHL is slower to react to dosing changes while the Trident reacts 10-20 min's quicker. The reaction can be taken several different ways, good or bad, I will leave that up to you. I like the consistency of the KHD so far vs. the Trident. I am waiting on some reagent to test my Hanna Alk chekcer to see if it is good or if I need to buy a new one. When I am able to compare both to the Hanna is when I will start to check the accuracy of both vs each other. Below are 1 week comparisons. The KHD swung .6 DKH while the Trident swung 1.22 DKH in that same period.
When looking at the graphs, just please remember what I said about not being a slave to the interface and actually looking at what needs to be looked at.
When looking at the graphs, just please remember what I said about not being a slave to the interface and actually looking at what needs to be looked at.
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OP
OP
Billldg
My Gem Tang Is Watching You
K, now are you seeing where I am going with the control cabinet? It will do the GHL stack some justice.
As you can see, I now have 3 GHL powerbar 6e's. I installed the 3rd one today while adding them to the cabinet.
As you can see, I now have 3 GHL powerbar 6e's. I installed the 3rd one today while adding them to the cabinet.
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LILBUDDHA
Valuable Member
Following .
Having just jumped in 6 feet deep with, Apex , Trident.. not a good read since I am looking for full consistent readings and automated dosing . I didn't get the second DOS and got a GHL SA 2.1 for AF 3 component dosing . Its quiet GHL support has been very good ..
Apex support .. UGH ..
Having just jumped in 6 feet deep with, Apex , Trident.. not a good read since I am looking for full consistent readings and automated dosing . I didn't get the second DOS and got a GHL SA 2.1 for AF 3 component dosing . Its quiet GHL support has been very good ..
Apex support .. UGH ..
OP
OP
Billldg
My Gem Tang Is Watching You
Looking at the picture of the cabinet, I may have a crazy idea to incorporate LED's again...LOL!!! ;Hilarious
OP
OP
Billldg
My Gem Tang Is Watching You
Strike against GHL. I moved the P4, KHD, and Doser over to the new cabinet and when I started to hooked up the lines to the doser again I constantly had an issue with the line staying in the tubing for the KHD Reagent. I cut the line back and replaced the connection nozzle and neither worked. I replace the tubing with another one from another pump and it worked fine. The tubing on the dosers seems to be a bit fragile, it could be a one off, but, non the less, you need to be careful with it and not remove the connection nozzle no more than is needed. Now I have to order another tubing kit for the one I removed.
OP
OP
Billldg
My Gem Tang Is Watching You
After replacing the dosing tubing and conducting 2 test, I clearly see I will have to re-calibrate the dosing head. The first test was at 10.3 DKH and the 2nd was at 7.1 DKH. I will do it tomorrow, as its to late, and I worked today, on my actual day off and I am tired...LOL!!!
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OP
OP
Billldg
My Gem Tang Is Watching You
The last few KHD test were inline with what I expected and what the KHD was showing before having an issue and replacing one of the dosing tubes. I may not have to recalibrate it after all.
OP
OP
Billldg
My Gem Tang Is Watching You
I am going to install the Propeller Breeze 3 4 fan along with a Propeller Controller in the next few days. It is pretty simple and straight forward. Below is the instructions to install both.
www.aquariumcomputer.com
How to: Control Propeller Breeze fan via ProfiLux – GHL (International)
OP
OP
Billldg
My Gem Tang Is Watching You
Now a big plus for GHL, you can extend the PH, Temp, Redox/ORP, and Salinity sensor simply by purchasing a BNC extension cable. I will buy 4 to extend the 4 sensors above. You can't extend the Apex sensors, being the 4 listed above. How often are we short by a few inches when trying to hook up the sensors.
Normally, I wouldn't have to extend the sensors, but givin that I running this along side my Apex, I am limited with space in where to put the control cabinet, thus the need to extend the sensors.
Normally, I wouldn't have to extend the sensors, but givin that I running this along side my Apex, I am limited with space in where to put the control cabinet, thus the need to extend the sensors.
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OP
OP
Billldg
My Gem Tang Is Watching You
Ask all the questions you need to ask and myself, @Ditto, and @Vinny@GHLUSA will help in any way before purchasing. That way you will have everything needed, meaning extra cables and such. We will help in any way to help you set up your future ProfiLux P4.The more I read your thread Bill, the more and more I want to purchase my Profilux right now
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OP
OP
Billldg
My Gem Tang Is Watching You
I will start to thinker around with adding a camera to my GHL Dashboard. I like the idea of seeing the tank during the day when you are not around, to see if some fish are bullying others and such. It is also a great tool to monitor the tank when you are on vacation, and to help those great people that are monitoring your tank during vacation times, and have less, or no, experience in reefing. Plus it will give me something to do when I am at work...and actually doing nothing...LOL!!! I will try to add a ReoLink E1 Pro.
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OP
OP
Billldg
My Gem Tang Is Watching You
I just installed a PLM-4 Level card today. Below is what I did and a correction that needs to be done to the video as the screws looked the same as were on mine, if I am wrong then no correction is needed. As in the video, I disconnected the P4 unit and put it on a wooden table as it disperses static electricity. I also made sure to touch my hands to anything made of wood or steel to further discharge any static electricity on myself. This is where the correction comes into play. The video says to use a T10 torx to remove screws, in reality, it’s a hex 2.5. I am not sure if this was an old unit used in the video, but it actually looked like hex bolts to me. It doesn’t matter, we are here to help.
I removed the screws, flipped over the P4, and removed the bottle plate carefully as the video said as their are in fact cables connect the LED’s on the top of the unit. Now their are 3 filler plates, as I call them, but you can also call them blanks.
If you are installing the PLM-PWC card, then follow the video, if you are installing all others, then read further. I am installing a PLM-4 Level sensor card, but all others are the same with the above exception I believe.
Now remove the blank as it simply pull out.
As the video states, all other cards will go into the first 2 slots pointing out the back where the blanks are.
Don’t force the card, it will slide into the slot on the chassis of the P4 and the expansion slot very easily.
Just remember when installing the card that now each port is 1,3,5.7. If you install splitter cables then each port becomes 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8. You will still have to assign which level sensor uses which port. If you just use the port available on the P4 then it will be 1 and 3. If you use splitter cables then it will be 1,2,3,4. If you add the card then you have 1-8 when using splitter cables. I plan on having 4 flow sensors and 4 leak detection signs, thus me adding the card and splitter cables giving me 8.
I removed the screws, flipped over the P4, and removed the bottle plate carefully as the video said as their are in fact cables connect the LED’s on the top of the unit. Now their are 3 filler plates, as I call them, but you can also call them blanks.
If you are installing the PLM-PWC card, then follow the video, if you are installing all others, then read further. I am installing a PLM-4 Level sensor card, but all others are the same with the above exception I believe.
Now remove the blank as it simply pull out.
As the video states, all other cards will go into the first 2 slots pointing out the back where the blanks are.
Don’t force the card, it will slide into the slot on the chassis of the P4 and the expansion slot very easily.
Just remember when installing the card that now each port is 1,3,5.7. If you install splitter cables then each port becomes 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8. You will still have to assign which level sensor uses which port. If you just use the port available on the P4 then it will be 1 and 3. If you use splitter cables then it will be 1,2,3,4. If you add the card then you have 1-8 when using splitter cables. I plan on having 4 flow sensors and 4 leak detection signs, thus me adding the card and splitter cables giving me 8.
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Operator Wrasse
Active Member
Bill,
Thank you for doing this test of the GHL products. I found your build thread this month and read through everything. Your build is almost identical to what I have planned in the next year or two, depending on how this whole having kids thing goes. You're doing a great thing for the hobby.
Trevor
Thank you for doing this test of the GHL products. I found your build thread this month and read through everything. Your build is almost identical to what I have planned in the next year or two, depending on how this whole having kids thing goes. You're doing a great thing for the hobby.
Trevor
OP
OP
Billldg
My Gem Tang Is Watching You
I just thought of something, do you know what the actual max of a relay or breaker, or in this case, a energy bar is actually rated for. I do commercial Ref and HVAC for a living and see and deal with it all the time. You never want to go above 75 percent of a rated relay, outlet, breaker, or in this case, a energy bar. It is the golden standard that you never go above 75 percent due to imperfections in the build and the possibility of a longer than expected spike in energy use. Maxing out relays and outlets will shorten the life expectancy of any relay and outlet. It doesn't matter whether its GHL or Apex. Thankfully, the GHL energy bars are, IMO, over built, thus no real need to worry. How many items do you have on a tank that pull roughly 11.25 amps. Then when it comes to overall tank amperage, how many tanks use 11.25 amps as well. So using a GHL energy bar is not an issue as they use 15 amp relays and outlets. The difference comes in that the Apex EB832 Energy bar is rated for 7 amps with 7 amp relays and outlets. I personally have never had an issue with a outlet/relay going bad on my EB832 Energy bars, and I use 3, but with a 7 amp max, that means that the actual useable max is 5.25 amps. I had to spread my heaters and lights on different EB832 Energy bars to prevent the breaker on the bar from tripping. It is just something to think about when you upsize your tank to something that will use 600+ watts of heating on a single outlet, T5's, and such.
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