Apex conversion to GHL

Sleepydoc

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The spades also let GHL use the same frame for all the power regions they service. I assume the inner brains are mutivoltage.

If I remember I'll open up a newer 6e. It wouldn't be till the end of the month. Maybe I will ask my lfs if they have a blown up 832 I can disassemble too
Yes, I'm sure you're right. I know the 12V PSU that Apex has in the EB832 is 120-240V; that's pretty much the norm these days, so I'd be quite surprised if the GHL power bar didn't do the same. It's actually a smart design - they have one board for all regions and the only thing they need to change is the receptacles & faceplate. The EB832 is more compact, but at the cost of flexibility.

The only thing I'm curious about is how they handle switching of the 240V models. 120V mains in the U.S. have 1 'hot' wire and one neutral wire that is bonded to ground at the service panel. Countries on 240V generally have 2 hot wires. Technically you only need to switch one of them to break the circuit but it seems like it would be smarter to switch both. I have to ask by Finnish brother in law how they do switches in Europe.
 
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So far I like how the GHL flow sensor is reading. Flow is never constant, it will change, and I am seeing the flow meter on my UV sterilizer changing. It changes from 670 to 720 gph. I can't wait to add one to my DT.
 
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I would like for GHL to add graphs for the flow sensors. I just looked and wasn't able to find a graph. On most flow sensors I really couldn't care less, but on a Carbon reactor, or any reactor, that will show that your are losing flow, thus it needs to be changed out, it would be a plus. ;)
 
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Sleepydoc

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50/700 gpm is about 7%, that's not a ton of variation. I don't know how accurate the flow sensors are, but between flow variation in the pump and measurement variation in the sensor that seems pretty good.

Will GHL let you set an alarm for flow? That's the main thing you care about, right? as long as the flow is adequate you're fine but if it drops below X then something's up and you need to know.
 
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50/700 gpm is about 7%, that's not a ton of variation. I don't know how accurate the flow sensors are, but between flow variation in the pump and measurement variation in the sensor that seems pretty good.

Will GHL let you set an alarm for flow? That's the main thing you care about, right? as long as the flow is adequate you're fine but if it drops below X then something's up and you need to know.
The GHL flow sensor will allow you to set an alarm. I just haven't done it yet as I see no need on my UV sterilizer.

I would like for GHL to add graphing ability as it allows me to see when I need to change my Carbon and such. An alarm would do the same, but pictures mean a lot.
 
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Something I wanted to point out, when the reference of being a slave to to interface comes into play. I currently have 2 Cor 20's on my 225 gal tank. One on my left return and one on my right return. The picture below will show what I mean when I said I don't want to be a slave to the interface. The reason I said that to begin with is that we have succumbed to looking at what the interface shows us, nothing else. We are no longer in tune to our tanks, we are simply in tuned to what the interface tells us. The Cor on the left is a new Cor 20 that was purchased during the Black Friday sale of 2020. The Cor on the right was purchased a year before. I tore down and cleaned the Right Cor 20 before installing it on my tank upgrade. Look at the difference in the reading as per the Apex Fusion. Do you see something wrong in the picture?

And neither Cor 20 is living up to the specs, as per the Neptune flow rate chart.

Screenshot (190).png
 
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I have been nothing but riddled with issue with the Neptune ATK. I will likely go with the GHL Maxi doser ATO setup, or a Tunze 3155. I am not sure which way I will go, BUT, I need consistency and a quality build when my ATO comes into play as I am getting tired of my Neptune ATK failing me. I copied and pasted what I posted in my build thread below as I am simply getting tired of reporting what many other reefers know. This is the 2nd time the ATK has failed me in roughly a week.

I think I found the problem with my Neptune Apex ATK...AND...its the one thing Neptune brags about, LOL!!! They brag about having triple redundancy with the ATK, and yet, it was the 3rd redundancy that failed me and cost me a PMUP. For whatever reason, the float switch stopped flowing and it caused the PMUP to go bad as it deadheaded, aka blocked it. I noticed this because I was seeing my flow sensor drop and my ATO pump to stay on. I have seen this before and it usually means that my return pump section is low on water. I got home and guess what, it was low. I started to test the new PMUP that I installed a few days ago and it wasn't working. I thought, no ay can a brand new Neptune PMUP go bad. I disconnected the tubing from the ATK flow mount and turned it on, and guess what, it worked again...HMMM!!! I flushed out the flow mount and re-attached the tubing and it worked again. I will buy a Tunze 3155 again and get rid of the ATK as it is riddled with problems. I never had an issue with my Tunze.
 

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I have been nothing but riddled with issue with the Neptune ATK. I will likely go with the GHL Maxi doser ATO setup, or a Tunze 3155. I am not sure which way I will go, BUT, I need consistency and a quality build when my ATO comes into play as I am getting tired of my Neptune ATK failing me. I copied and pasted what I posted in my build thread below as I am simply getting tired of reporting what many other reefers know. This is the 2nd time the ATK has failed me in roughly a week.

I think I found the problem with my Neptune Apex ATK...AND...its the one thing Neptune brags about, LOL!!! They brag about having triple redundancy with the ATK, and yet, it was the 3rd redundancy that failed me and cost me a PMUP. For whatever reason, the float switch stopped flowing and it caused the PMUP to go bad as it deadheaded, aka blocked it. I noticed this because I was seeing my flow sensor drop and my ATO pump to stay on. I have seen this before and it usually means that my return pump section is low on water. I got home and guess what, it was low. I started to test the new PMUP that I installed a few days ago and it wasn't working. I thought, no ay can a brand new Neptune PMUP go bad. I disconnected the tubing from the ATK flow mount and turned it on, and guess what, it worked again...HMMM!!! I flushed out the flow mount and re-attached the tubing and it worked again. I will buy a Tunze 3155 again and get rid of the ATK as it is riddled with problems. I never had an issue with my Tunze.
Why not just remove the float switch? Float switches are notorious for being unreliable - I had to laugh when Terrance was touting it as a failsafe. I am surprised your pump died, though - if it was submerged it should still have had adequate cooling and it should have shut off after 10 minutes.

As a standalone unit, the Neptune ATK isn’t worth it, IMO. For about the same money you’re better off getting the Tunze. The real advantage of the ATK is if you have an Apex - then you use more advanced programming and you don’t need to waste an outlet on the Top off pump. If you’re switching from an Apex to a different controller then those benefits are lost.
 

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I have been nothing but riddled with issue with the Neptune ATK. I will likely go with the GHL Maxi doser ATO setup, or a Tunze 3155. I am not sure which way I will go, BUT, I need consistency and a quality build when my ATO comes into play as I am getting tired of my Neptune ATK failing me. I copied and pasted what I posted in my build thread below as I am simply getting tired of reporting what many other reefers know. This is the 2nd time the ATK has failed me in roughly a week.

I think I found the problem with my Neptune Apex ATK...AND...its the one thing Neptune brags about, LOL!!! They brag about having triple redundancy with the ATK, and yet, it was the 3rd redundancy that failed me and cost me a PMUP. For whatever reason, the float switch stopped flowing and it caused the PMUP to go bad as it deadheaded, aka blocked it. I noticed this because I was seeing my flow sensor drop and my ATO pump to stay on. I have seen this before and it usually means that my return pump section is low on water. I got home and guess what, it was low. I started to test the new PMUP that I installed a few days ago and it wasn't working. I thought, no ay can a brand new Neptune PMUP go bad. I disconnected the tubing from the ATK flow mount and turned it on, and guess what, it worked again...HMMM!!! I flushed out the flow mount and re-attached the tubing and it worked again. I will buy a Tunze 3155 again and get rid of the ATK as it is riddled with problems. I never had an issue with my
The maxi doser is no longer available and the tunze is on back order. A new maxi doser is supposingly in the works. Interested in which way you go.
 

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My Litermeter / Spectrapure ATO pump is going on 5 years without as much as maintenance, if you’re looking for alternatives.
Does the GHL have any low voltage (12 or 24V) like the Apex does? If not, straight DI water is very easy on pumps so pretty much any pump will work. The Tunze pump is reliable but noisy and tends to suffer from airlock if it loses its prime.

An ATO is simply a couple of water level sensors and a pump so you should be able to have your GHL controller be the ATO, right?
 
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Lets give GHL some time to come out with the next generation of Maxi Doser. They have a ton of things in the works, but, were put on hold due to Covid. Now that things are starting to move forward, KINDA, lets give GHL time to recover and move forward in developing the things they were looking to already release. If anything, we have already learned that GHL wasn't staying stagnant, the further developed the IOND and decreased the pumps need from 4 to 3. ;) :cool:
 

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I like hearing “a ton of things in the works“

Got an extensive list for my build from Vinny. Quality tech support is key. Think he has me sold
 

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That is why I made my fittings.

Flow 11.jpeg


I did not pay attention to your pictures and just saw the 6.22 ml/pulse figure that must have been prior to your change.

Can anyone please confirm that the flow sensor sends pulses and is not 4-20ma signal.
 

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Can anyone please confirm that the flow sensor sends pulses and is not 4-20ma signal.

I can not verify what the output of the sensor is just that you set the ml/pulse depending on size.

I think this is the catalog for the sensor.

I will look and see if there is a part number on mine to figure out which one in the catalog.
 

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I can not verify what the output of the sensor is just that you set the ml/pulse depending on size.

I think this is the catalog for the sensor.

I will look and see if there is a part number on mine to figure out which one in the catalog.

So the sensor you provided documentation for has both the analog 0-10V& 4-20ma, and frequency outputs (pulse per amount of flow); just unsure if there are different versions or numerous pinouts that allow for different configurations from that manufacturer.

In my quest to find a reliable sensor for UV setup & chiller I also stumbled upon a different manufacturer of sensors with the same principle.

I need 4-20ma output for my application and I have 2 GHL probes on hand which I assumed has 4-20ma analog output until I saw the post here. Hoping somebody can confirm specifically for GHL branded sensors what the setup and pinout is.
 

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KStatefan

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So the sensor you provided documentation for has both the analog 0-10V& 4-20ma, and frequency outputs (pulse per amount of flow); just unsure if there are different versions or numerous pinouts that allow for different configurations from that manufacturer.

In my quest to find a reliable sensor for UV setup & chiller I also stumbled upon a different manufacturer of sensors with the same principle.

I need 4-20ma output for my application and I have 2 GHL probes on hand which I assumed has 4-20ma analog output until I saw the post here. Hoping somebody can confirm specifically for GHL branded sensors what the setup and pinout is.

I think the data I posted is not the correct flow sensor brand/model. Looks the same but not available in a 4 pin connector. I have not found a number on it that would give me any clues to brand.
 
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As of right now, I can only do a comparison of the KHD and the Alk of the Trident. I am trying to detox myself from work, as I had a few very busy weeks, but I will try to do a comparison between the 2 when compared to a Hanna. I bring this up now as I am seeing a difference in Alk between the 2. Both my KHD and Trident test Alk at the same exact time, 00:00, 06:00, 12:00. and 18:00. I will test them against the Hanna at the same time...Though I may need to set a bunch of alarm clocks to wake me up, LOL!!!

As off today the KHD is showing 8.9 dkh, while the Trident is showing 8.68 dkh. It may not sound like much of a difference, but when you allow your controller to control dosing based on that, it can become an issue. ;)
 
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