Dahood5855
Community Member
Looking for someone that knows how to make a DIY top off system. Looking to put one on my 375g tank!
Anyone know how to make a DIY top off system?
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greg0385
Valuable Member
Kent marine float valve, use a small powerhead that has the venturi(adapter to insert airline into the outtake of powerhead).
Leave venturi open and plumb the powerhead to the float valve. The valve is capable of holding back the flow from the small powerhead and the venturi will let off some pressure from the pump so it doesnt burn up.
Cheap and simple!
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Leave venturi open and plumb the powerhead to the float valve. The valve is capable of holding back the flow from the small powerhead and the venturi will let off some pressure from the pump so it doesnt burn up.
Cheap and simple!
Sent Via the R2R Forum APP
Engloid
Valuable Member
A float valve will actually hold line pressure, which can hit 90psi in my house at times.
My setup for ATO is like this:
You may be able to incorporate some of this with what's above if you don't want to buy an ATO setup.
I did buy a JBJ ATO unit, but after looking it over, it didn't seem to be AUTO to me. I still had to make and keep a tank of RO water, and use a pump to move it to the aquarium when the float dropped low.
So what I did... I got a 120v solenoid (normally closed), and plugged it into the ATO. The solenoid is in my house water system, so when it opens, it allows water to flow to my RO filter. Waste goes into a basement sump, and the RO water goes into my sump. When the float rises high enough, water supply to the RO unit is stopped.
Personally, I think this is a much better setup than working with a mechanical float valve. I do absolutely NOTHING for topoff. I don't make RO water for anything other than waterchanges, and I don't have to have a topoff pump. I also put a tee into the line, so I can bypass the solenoid for making waterchange water. This line does have a mechanical float valve which is on the edge of a Brute garbage can. I can leave this turned on, as it's a manual valve...until the cans are full, and the seal will stop flow, holding 60-90psi of pressure. Remember...as the float rises, pressure on the seal increases.
You can also buy the electronic float valves like JBJ uses, and you could probably wire it up to a solenoid, without buying the whole JBJ or other brand setup. IMO, my $50 spent is much better than doing a DIY that requires regular work down the road.
My setup for ATO is like this:
You may be able to incorporate some of this with what's above if you don't want to buy an ATO setup.
I did buy a JBJ ATO unit, but after looking it over, it didn't seem to be AUTO to me. I still had to make and keep a tank of RO water, and use a pump to move it to the aquarium when the float dropped low.
So what I did... I got a 120v solenoid (normally closed), and plugged it into the ATO. The solenoid is in my house water system, so when it opens, it allows water to flow to my RO filter. Waste goes into a basement sump, and the RO water goes into my sump. When the float rises high enough, water supply to the RO unit is stopped.
Personally, I think this is a much better setup than working with a mechanical float valve. I do absolutely NOTHING for topoff. I don't make RO water for anything other than waterchanges, and I don't have to have a topoff pump. I also put a tee into the line, so I can bypass the solenoid for making waterchange water. This line does have a mechanical float valve which is on the edge of a Brute garbage can. I can leave this turned on, as it's a manual valve...until the cans are full, and the seal will stop flow, holding 60-90psi of pressure. Remember...as the float rises, pressure on the seal increases.
You can also buy the electronic float valves like JBJ uses, and you could probably wire it up to a solenoid, without buying the whole JBJ or other brand setup. IMO, my $50 spent is much better than doing a DIY that requires regular work down the road.
Dahood5855
Community Member
Thats a great idea engloid. I asked Mr. Saltwater tank which he used and he uses the tunze osmolator. I think Im gonna try this one out and see what happens. If it doesnt work out, I may have to come check out your system!
Jlobes
5000 Club Member
if you go with the tunze...more than likely you will not need another option. and if youre going the tunze route...you may want to check out the litremeter from spectrapure.
Engloid
Valuable Member
My setup isnt a replacement for what is called ato. My problem with the so called ato setups is that none of them do more than power a pump to move water you already made from one place to another. They require the purchase of another pump and container. My setup is an improvement...in that I dont have a container of RO water and I dont have an ATO pump. I dont need it. I've eliminated those things to make a truly AUTO top off.
That said...you can eliminate the pump if you place your topoff water at higher elevation than the sump and use gravity to fill....but the setup I designed will top off at any elevation...no pump needed. And no container.
Especially for larger tanks, this is the best setup I have ever seen or heard of. It is 100% automatic. I'd reccomend you consider this before spending money on a pump and container to hold RO water. Just think about it....you know how much topoff water you go through...wouldnt it be nice to never make it or handle it again? Not only not handle it daily but not have to make 20 or 30 gallons a week and put in a container so an "automatic" system can dose it in slowly? You will like the way I did this.
That said...you can eliminate the pump if you place your topoff water at higher elevation than the sump and use gravity to fill....but the setup I designed will top off at any elevation...no pump needed. And no container.
Especially for larger tanks, this is the best setup I have ever seen or heard of. It is 100% automatic. I'd reccomend you consider this before spending money on a pump and container to hold RO water. Just think about it....you know how much topoff water you go through...wouldnt it be nice to never make it or handle it again? Not only not handle it daily but not have to make 20 or 30 gallons a week and put in a container so an "automatic" system can dose it in slowly? You will like the way I did this.
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Engloid
Valuable Member
Ive not used the tunze setup but I would check on the whole optics thing. Is it a sensor that will mess up if it gets dirty? Im imagining an optical setup that could get a dirty lens due to salt caked on it. I've not seen how the tunze works so I may be imagining it wrong.
Jlobes
5000 Club Member
what happens if the float fails? will you now have RO flowing into your tank nonstop?
The biggest problem with this solution, especially if you're away for awhile -- FLOODING. Everything mechanical eventually fails. A reservoir takes care of this problem so long as the sump volume plus reservoir volume doesn't exceed the sump capacity. Also, another advantage is you can mix chemicals in your top-off water which you can't do hooked up to your RO/DI. This can be very beneficial for maintaining chemical stability (alkalinity, calcium, etc.).
Engloid
Valuable Member
Good point. I dont really dose anything regularly so thats not an issue for me......and with large volume sumps I can shut off topoff for a week if I want and there is little change to salinity. My sumps are in the basement too so flooding isnt a big problem. Im considering some of the heavy concrete caulk to make a shallow dike around my sumps and basement sump pump which would contain and remove any water that ever gets out.
Feivel
Active Member
Float Valves are great. I use one connected to a blue 5g camping water jug that i siliconed a rodi line into the existing vent hole. I have to fill it evey 6ish days. Gravity Fed. Oh, and Turn the dispenser knob inside the cap to let a hairline air inlet so the jug doesnt implode on itself.
Great idea with the caulking to make a road for the water to go.
Great idea with the caulking to make a road for the water to go.
Engloid
Valuable Member
yeah, my sumps are two 55g drums in the basement. In the very corner of the room is a cutout basement sump pump, so I set them on each side of it. I plan to just run a fat bead of caulk around them to keep water contained in the area with the sump pump. That concrete caulk is tough stuff...hard to break loose later, unless you use a putty knife or razor to cut it.
Dahood5855
Community Member
The Optical is supposed to be better than the magnetic ones because it is less likely to have salt creep build up on it and theres no moving parts. I went with that one so that I can dose other stuff (MG and Kalk) later. My top off drum is 325g so im not worried about filling it up to often haha. I do want to check out your set up though. is there a way to post a picture?
Aqualifter pump $15, float switch $3, 5 gallon jug $5 and you're set. If you're paranoid add a 2nd float switch. Easy to wire also. Been going this way for years with out a single issue.
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