anemone dying

[j.falk]

Actually quite the opposite. Nems get the main source of energetic or “food” from light. Periodic feeding are fine but not necessary.

Wrong. If an anemone is bleached it means it has little to no zooxanthellae left that it can use to make food...hence the reason why you have to feed it more often when it is bleached to try and keep it alive.

 

[j.falk]

Immaculate: Definition: Free from flaws or mistakes. Perfect.

Tank water is constantly in a state of change...from evaporation, to adding nutrients when you feed your livestock, scraping your algae, watching your fish poop, having something die off, etc...

There is no keeping it immaculate when it comes to tank water.

 

[vetteguy53081]

any test kits you can recommend?

Hanna or salifert brand

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi all, My anemone appears to be dying and not taking food just 4 days ago had its tips and took food.
View attachment 3168091View attachment 3168092

In your pic, the anemone is climbing and its foot is sticking to wall. Its not dead or dying yet. However, when a nem is climbing, its usually due to:
Insufficient lighting and trying to get closer to light
Insufficient water flow and trying to get closer to flow source
High phosphate level
Stressed due to low salinity or elevated tank temperature

 

[ellarose]

In your pic, the anemone is climbing and its foot is sticking to wall. Its not dead or dying yet. However, when a nem is climbing, its usually due to:
Insufficient lighting and trying to get closer to light
Insufficient water flow and trying to get closer to flow source
High phosphate level
Stressed due to low salinity or elevated tank temperature

hasn’t moved from this spot for about 10 months

 

[vetteguy53081]

hasn’t moved from this spot for about 10 months

_ Its a suitable liking for the anemone again du to water, flow or lighting

 

[ellarose]

_ Its a suitable liking for the anemone again du to water, flow or lighting

Getting water tested today will get back with parameters, the lighting i use is My AI

 

[vetteguy53081]

Getting water tested today will get back with parameters, the lighting i use is My AI
View attachment 3169116

Good light. Try this:

White 12
Blue 75
UV 80
purple 60
Green 4
Red 4
Royal 80

 

[j.falk]

Getting water tested today will get back with parameters, the lighting i use is My AI
View attachment 3169116

Good light. Try this:

White 12
Blue 75
UV 80
purple 60
Green 4
Red 4
Royal 80

Or you could just download the anemone settings for your light from:

https://www.hernanoreefs.com/nano-anemone-tank

 

[Rmckoy]

was feeding more frequently due to others telling me it would help it with the bleaching

A bleached anemone has expelled all ots
Colour for one last chance at survival .
They consume too much energy trying to digest offered foods and are best to provide stable water parameters along with proper lighting .

Over feeding will kill them when they are bleached

 

[vetteguy53081]

Or you could just download the anemone settings for your light from:

https://www.hernanoreefs.com/nano-anemone-tank

View attachment 3169154

Problem is , what works for one tank, may not work for another. Example is a person having settings for a 40breeder. . . . schedule wont work for a 75g tank or reverse

 

[ellarose]

Good light. Try this:

White 12
Blue 75
UV 80
purple 60
Green 4
Red 4
Royal 80

okay will do, thank you

 

[ellarose]

A bleached anemone has expelled all ots
Colour for one last chance at survival .
They consume too much energy trying to digest offered foods and are best to provide stable water parameters along with proper lighting .

Over feeding will kill them when they are bleached

That makes sense maybe if nothings wrong with the water after i find out i’ll try leave it alone maybe will come back to life with better lighting?

 

[Rmckoy]

That makes sense maybe if nothings wrong with the water after i find out i’ll try leave it alone maybe will come back to life with better lighting?

How old is the tank ?
Try to track test results including temp for a few weeks but test regularly .
Too long photo period , temp increasing , fluctuating water parameters . All can potentially increase the chance of bleaching anemones and other corals

 

[ellarose]

How old is the tank ?
Try to track test results including temp for a few weeks but test regularly .
Too long photo period , temp increasing , fluctuating water parameters . All can potentially increase the chance of bleaching anemones and other corals

the tank is about 2.5 years old now, i haven’t done any changes to the tank like water changes for about 2 months just been topping the tank up with water and added in chemicals like ph

 

[Spare time]

Bubble tip anemones are hardy. if its still attached, its fine. If its bleached, dose something like reef energy or similar. It is a myth that they need pristine stable water. Trust me, I have seen bubble tips survive being ripped, living in double normal salinity, in hot water, in cold water, in extreme nitrate and phosphate, and in low nitrate and phosphate.

 

[Rmckoy]

the tank is about 2.5 years old now, i haven’t done any changes to the tank like water changes for about 2 months just been topping the tank up with water and added in chemicals like ph

May I ask why add ph ?
Have you also tested alkalinity ?
we all know most oh buffers also effect alkalinity

 

[Rmckoy]

@OrionN
The anemone whisperer
What’s your opinion on this unhappy anemone

 

[OrionN]

That anemone looks like it is a BTA in very poor shape. In anemone world, BTA is practically almost indestructible in term of ease of care in comparison to other host anemone species. It does not appear to have adequate light or circulation there, but likely that is not make it sick. Anemone just moves if they don't like the current and light. I almost 100% sure that that the problem is in the chemistry.

the tank is about 2.5 years old now, i haven’t done any changes to the tank like water changes for about 2 months just been topping the tank up with water and added in chemicals like ph

The OP mention that the tank has been running for 2.5 years. There was no water change in the last 2.5 months. Poor maintained tank has "old tank syndrome" which mean basically "bad water due to accumulation of micro-toxin, and depletion of micronutrients. Turn this around isn't always easy because a lot of the micro-toxin bind into the rock, only release when pH gets low like during the night. Because of this reason, large water changes do not always fix things. This, "old tank syndrome", is a lot more common in tank with sand bed that have been neglected.

....when the zoas started to shrink and anemone became bleached i did multiple water test at the shop on their machine and everything has always been perfect just upping my salt sometimes and more RO water depending what the test said. have been feeding the anemone at least 3 times a week and always ate the shrimp i had given it

LFS alway just test for ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite, salinity, perhaps phosphate. Testing at the LFS is hardly extensive. It will not pick up cause for "old tank syndrome".

OP mention "...upping my salt and more RO water..." I just hope this does not mean adding salt crystal to the tank.

Concentrate on get the water condition better, however you can do it, or else get him to a new well-run tank and you may be able to save him. When I am talking about getting water condition better, I do not mean just salinity, nitrates, phosphate, but more than the macro nutrient and waste, I mainly concern with the normally unmeasurable trace nutrients and toxins. You MAY be able to correct this with large volume water change, 50-75% changes repeatedly, or else 100% change but you must match salinity and temperature.

Goodluck

 

[ellarose]

May I ask why add ph ?
Have you also tested alkalinity ?
we all know most oh buffers also effect alkalinity

i use other buffers as well i was just using ph as an example i use the ph cause sometimes my ph drops in the tank only does a little bit though, getting full test done today