All About Reef Safe Wrasses in Aquaria

[evolved]

Did you use acclimation box or just put him in?

Also is it constant chasing and the flame is hiding or is it just random chase?

Those were going to be my questions as well.

 

[alton]

The flame has been in the tank for a couple weeks. I figured the acclimation box was used when adding same sized or smaller wrasse. Do I place the more aggressive or less aggressive fish in the box?

 

[OrionN]

I like to know about this (How aggressive are Diamond Tail Flasher?) also. I am thinking of having one in my 65 gal which now have a Pacific Blue tang and Yellow tang (both need to be move and replace with a Tomini tang), a Melanurus wrasse, and a pair of Percula. Are they aggressive enough to do well in there, or should I get a Blue Throat or an Eightline Flasher?
Alton, does the Diamond tail chase the Flame relentlessly or just occasionally? It the chase is relentlessly and cornered the Flame, you prob need to remove her to your home tank as planned. If the chase is intermittent, they likely will do OK given a little time. I would put the shyer, smaller wrasse in isolation.

 

[evolved]

The flame has been in the tank for a couple weeks. I figured the acclimation box was used when adding same sized or smaller wrasse. Do I place the more aggressive or less aggressive fish in the box?

The newest addition.

 

[alton]

Sorry I go to bed by 10:15 if possible because I am at work by 5:10 am. I am looking at the Flame who is wondering where breakfast is at since I feed them for the first time around 6:30. The DT I am guessing is sleeping somewhere since he is still on Cali Time? I brought my trap which is what I use as an acclimation box to work. FYI I ordered a sub adult DT but what I got was this guy for $172 with tax.

 

[OrionN]

Very nice. I hope they will settle without you having to do much. Two such beautiful wrasses.

 

[alton]

Minh it is ten x better this morning. There is still aggression from the DT but no continued chasing around the tank like yesterday. Both ate great this morning, the DT actually ate yesterday right out of the bag. I read most of this thread and since Minh got me hooked on Wrasses I have tried to follow the chart and stay away from aggressive wrasses. I have a yellow fin and a flame in my 180 that have been doing great for over a year.

 

[OrionN]

With your experiences on this wrasse and the price you got. I think I will get one. I just don't think I can pay the ridiculous price of 450 for one before.

 

[Blinkdo]

We recently acquired a Hawaiian Christmas wrasse that was close to 3" to test in one of our 200 gallon reefs. The colors were amazing and did well for a couple of days.

Its gotten a bit more aggressive towards other fish but doesn't seem to bother the corals or inverts. I guess time will tell...

 

[saltyhog]

Introduction question for the experts. I have 4 new wrasses in QT right now. They are being QT'd in two batches (C. isoscoles and a tiny P. attenuatus in one and C. roseafascia and P. carpenteri in the other). I could easily add all 4 at the same time as the second batch is only about 1 week behind the first in the QT process. I have two acclimation boxes.

Should I add all 4 at the same time, add both flashers then the fairies or vice versa?

Current wrasses are C. jordani, C. laboutei, C. exquisitis, H. melasmapomas, M. geoffroyi, P. lineopunctatus.

 

[eatbreakfast]

Introduction question for the experts. I have 4 new wrasses in QT right now. They are being QT'd in two batches (C. isoscoles and a tiny P. attenuatus in one and C. roseafascia and P. carpenteri in the other). I could easily add all 4 at the same time as the second batch is only about 1 week behind the first in the QT process. I have two acclimation boxes.

Should I add all 4 at the same time, add both flashers then the fairies or vice versa?

Current wrasses are C. jordani, C. laboutei, C. exquisitis, H. melasmapomas, M. geoffroyi, P. lineopunctatus.

Add the isosceles and flashers first. Add the roseafascia later.

 

[evolved]

We recently acquired a Hawaiian Christmas wrasse that was close to 3" to test in one of our 200 gallon reefs. The colors were amazing and did well for a couple of days.

Its gotten a bit more aggressive towards other fish but doesn't seem to bother the corals or inverts. I guess time will tell...

That's Halichoeres ornatissimus, it is is known for being aggressive. Sorry to say, but it won't get any better but worse.

Introduction question for the experts. I have 4 new wrasses in QT right now. They are being QT'd in two batches (C. isoscoles and a tiny P. attenuatus in one and C. roseafascia and P. carpenteri in the other). I could easily add all 4 at the same time as the second batch is only about 1 week behind the first in the QT process. I have two acclimation boxes.

Should I add all 4 at the same time, add both flashers then the fairies or vice versa?

Current wrasses are C. jordani, C. laboutei, C. exquisitis, H. melasmapomas, M. geoffroyi, P. lineopunctatus.

Add the isosceles and flashers first. Add the roseafascia later.

Agree; that's the safest move for sure.

 

[HairyGary]

Introduction question for the experts. I have 4 new wrasses in QT right now. They are being QT'd in two batches (C. isoscoles and a tiny P. attenuatus in one and C. roseafascia and P. carpenteri in the other). I could easily add all 4 at the same time as the second batch is only about 1 week behind the first in the QT process. I have two acclimation boxes.

Should I add all 4 at the same time, add both flashers then the fairies or vice versa?

Current wrasses are C. jordani, C. laboutei, C. exquisitis, H. melasmapomas, M. geoffroyi, P. lineopunctatus.

Nice! So you bit the bullet on the Attenuatus! Excellent! I agree with @eatbreakfast ! Roseafascia last for sure. Good luck!

 

[Benj2112]

Question on adding a Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse and a McCosker's Flasher Wrasse to a new 120 gallon tank. They will be the first fish in the tank. After QT, do they both go into a separate acclimation box in the tank, or as they are the first in they can both just be added to the tank on opposite sides or something like that?

 

[evolved]

Question on adding a Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse and a McCosker's Flasher Wrasse to a new 120 gallon tank. They will be the first fish in the tank. After QT, do they both go into a separate acclimation box in the tank, or as they are the first in they can both just be added to the tank on opposite sides or something like that?

If they're the first two fish to go in, no need for an acclimation box if adding them at the same time.

 

[alton]

Looking like they worked it out after all. Next wrasse goes into acclimation box first. Not skipping this step next time, thanks everyone. And thanks again for a excellent thread

 

[saltyhog]

Add the isosceles and flashers first. Add the roseafascia later.

Thank you! That's what I had planned.

I know that all fish are individuals but QT'ing these guys has been amusing. The isoscoles and attenuatus are in one QT. The isoscoles is a big terminal male and was dominant over the <2" isoscoles.....until I transferred them after completing copper to one of the cycled QT's. The isoscoles did the play possom fairy wrasse thing and the attenuatus started lunging at him and running in to him. I was about to separate them when the status quo was returned to normal in a couple of days.

The other pair is also opposite of what I expected. The roseafascia is an early transitioning male and the Carpenter's is a large terminal male. They are about the same size but the flasher is clearly dominant over the fairy wrasse.

These two unexpected heirarchies were what spurred me to ask that question.

Nice! So you bit the bullet on the Attenuatus! Excellent! I agree with @eatbreakfast ! Roseafascia last for sure. Good luck!

I found a juvie for about 1/2 of what they've been going for.

 

[HairyGary]

Thank you! That's what I had planned.

I know that all fish are individuals but QT'ing these guys has been amusing. The isoscoles and attenuatus are in one QT. The isoscoles is a big terminal male and was dominant over the <2" isoscoles.....until I transferred them after completing copper to one of the cycled QT's. The isoscoles did the play possom fairy wrasse thing and the attenuatus started lunging at him and running in to him. I was about to separate them when the status quo was returned to normal in a couple of days.

The other pair is also opposite of what I expected. The roseafascia is an early transitioning male and the Carpenter's is a large terminal male. They are about the same size but the flasher is clearly dominant over the fairy wrasse.

These two unexpected heirarchies were what spurred me to ask that question.



I found a juvie for about 1/2 of what they've been going for.

Too funny. When I had the flame female and Bathyphilus female in QT the Bathyphilus showed the same behavior. Fine in the DT. My Little Lunatus does the same to the Bathyphilus now in the display. Pretty amusing. But all under the watchful eye of my Lineatus

Good luck with them.

 

[saltyhog]

With your experiences on this wrasse and the price you got. I think I will get one. I just don't think I can pay the ridiculous price of 450 for one before.

NYA has juvie's for $149. They are small (mine is a little less than 2") but mine actually arrived as a transitioning male. He's been in QT for a little over 3 weeks and hasn't missed a beat or a meal. Hopefully I'll get to enjoy him a little longer than the terminal males usually available.

 

[HairyGary]

NYA has juvie's for $149. They are small (mine is a little less than 2") but mine actually arrived as a transitioning male. He's been in QT for a little over 3 weeks and hasn't missed a beat or a meal. Hopefully I'll get to enjoy him a little longer than the terminal males usually available.

Mine was really little transitioning male when i picked him up in early 2018. He is about 2.5 inches now. Very personable.