Acrylic Fabrication Q & A

Saveafish

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they both serve a purpose, just depends on what you’re trying to do.
I'm gonna to attempt A 48"x 96"x 26-28" box of water. After reading for many hrs. I'm looking at putting a 45deg rod all the way on the bottom as added support. I was looking at the thicker welds for that.
 

cromag27

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I'm gonna to attempt A 48"x 96"x 26-28" box of water. After reading for many hrs. I'm looking at putting a 45deg rod all the way on the bottom as added support. I was looking at the thicker welds for that.

scigrip 40, but i wouldn’t bother on a tank that size. use 3, 4 or mix your own. gussets are mainly used for repair jobs. any tank assembled properly shouldn’t need them otherwise.
 

Saveafish

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scigrip 40, but i wouldn’t bother on a tank that size. use 3, 4 or mix your own. gussets are mainly used for repair jobs. any tank assembled properly shouldn’t need them otherwise.
Ok I was being over building. I seen a lot with weights on the bonding process. Is there too much weight to use or how soon to use it or take it off?
 

cromag27

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Ok I was being over building. I seen a lot with weights on the bonding process. Is there too much weight to use or how soon to use it or take it off?

i never paid attention to how much weight. just left it overnight and all was good.
 
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Here's some weights that I have used ;Hilarious;Hilarious

DSC03424.JPG

DSC04469.JPG

DSC00255.JPG

DSC00272.JPG
 

Saveafish

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So as long as the squishes the bubbles out. I know I can router the squishy out.
 

Lowell Lemon

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That's only stuck 1/2 way through, right? My thinking if it goes all the way through it marked a dam.

I often have a pin all the way through and the solvent seems to flow past it in actual use. Ideally you would want to soak as much of the joint as possible. With 1/2" I also use a larger guage needle to prevent clogging and bubbles during application of the solvent. I also use foam tape for truck canopies as a perimeter support under the parts to be joined. This helps to keep equal pressure on the parts without expressing the softened acrylic and solvent out of the joint. If you have to use to much weight you run the risk of a weaker joint.
 

Saveafish

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I was thinking how to balance it with the pin half way through.. lol. ;Bookworm
Moisture... what's a good humidity point to bond at. I normally run the house at 55-60%
How long does it take for it to suck out the moister. I know it's a few weeks to become saturated. Never did see anything on how long to dehydrated it.
 

Lowell Lemon

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Humidity can cause the store bought solvents to "blush" which is to say it will leave a white residue near the bond area. It is quite unsightly and is almost impossible to remove. Avoid high humidity in the bonding area if you can.
 
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How long does it take for it to suck out the moister. I know it's a few weeks to become saturated. Never did see anything on how long to dehydrated it.
This depends on the thickness of the panels. Specifically, the thickness of the panel with the routered/prepped edge (i.e. front panel to bottom or top panel, but the thickness of the bottom or top panel is not relevant)

1/4", 1-2 weeks
3/8" 3 weeks
1/2" 4 weeks
for every 1/8", add a week. This is a good rule of thumb. It's also one that people really like to ignore, in much similar fashion to how people will bond glass with silicone and then wait 3 days to fill it up and use it. Silicone cure time is 2 weeks minimum, probably more if the panels are really thick. The difference being that the silicone component can leech into the water, so it would just affect water chemistry (I believe, and also only temporarily). Filling an acrylic tank too soon, and the water can get absorbed into the joints faster than the panels (because the joints are not fully cured) and this can cause a difference in the rate of expansion between the joint material and the panel material, and then over time your joints will start to separate, turn white, etc...and not immediately, so you do the damage, the damage is done, and is permanent.

So when in doubt, let it cure longer
 

cromag27

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This depends on the thickness of the panels. Specifically, the thickness of the panel with the routered/prepped edge (i.e. front panel to bottom or top panel, but the thickness of the bottom or top panel is not relevant)

1/4", 1-2 weeks
3/8" 3 weeks
1/2" 4 weeks
for every 1/8", add a week. This is a good rule of thumb. It's also one that people really like to ignore, in much similar fashion to how people will bond glass with silicone and then wait 3 days to fill it up and use it. Silicone cure time is 2 weeks minimum, probably more if the panels are really thick. The difference being that the silicone component can leech into the water, so it would just affect water chemistry (I believe, and also only temporarily). Filling an acrylic tank too soon, and the water can get absorbed into the joints faster than the panels (because the joints are not fully cured) and this can cause a difference in the rate of expansion between the joint material and the panel material, and then over time your joints will start to separate, turn white, etc...and not immediately, so you do the damage, the damage is done, and is permanent.

So when in doubt, let it cure longer


don’t even get me started on silicone cure times. it disgusts me that “aquarium silicone” is sold and advertised as being safe to use in 24 hours.
 

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I have a stupid question. I plan to run BB on my next set up. can I sand the bottom panel with 1000grit (inside) to reduce reflection? Basically i don't want the bottom inside polished. Will it be safe?
 

cromag27

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I have a stupid question. I plan to run BB on my next set up. can I sand the bottom panel with 1000grit (inside) to reduce reflection? Basically i don't want the bottom inside polished. Will it be safe?

yes. just be aware that you’ll have weird swirl patterns.
 

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