Thanks @cromag08 . Going to drill them today after I shovel the snow off a couple of driveways.When they warp, just flip them over. but I'd drill as many 1/4" holes as you can.
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Thanks @cromag08 . Going to drill them today after I shovel the snow off a couple of driveways.When they warp, just flip them over. but I'd drill as many 1/4" holes as you can.
This is our first snowfall that we actually have to shovel. I don't mind it so much as it's not as cold when it's snowing. Hubby hates it. He'd rather be cutting the grass. LOL70 degrees here today. no snow.
@TaylorPilot had a similar one..have'nt seen him in a while...
How did you secure the net so tightly?
What are those white dots use to secure the net?
@cromag08 Check out the post in the link below. It works pretty well. It uses allot of air though. I think the amount of air they use is the difference between the cheap ones and high dollar Snap-On air tools. Although, unless you are doing allot of work, or have a small compressor, it isn't worth it IMHO. Also, the standard pads it came with wore out pretty quick polishing the edges of the acrylic. I went and bought a kit at AutoZone made by 3M that worked allot better.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/tools-for-working-with-acrylic.148014/page-4#post-2265638
@cromag08 Check out the post in the link below. It works pretty well. It uses allot of air though. I think the amount of air they use is the difference between the cheap ones and high dollar Snap-On air tools. Although, unless you are doing allot of work, or have a small compressor, it isn't worth it IMHO. Also, the standard pads it came with wore out pretty quick polishing the edges of the acrylic. I went and bought a kit at AutoZone made by 3M that worked allot better.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/tools-for-working-with-acrylic.148014/page-4#post-2265638
Something like this...
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...4_-1_-1&rpl=1&categoryRedirect=N0684&pt=N0684
They make them in several different colors. The color denotes how soft the pad it. I think the purple ones have a little more bite to them. Buffing out black acrylic is a PAIN, but clear isn't too bad. You really just have to play around with it and try a few, but none of it is cheap. By the time I had two types of compound, all the different stages of paper, tape, the buffer and new pads, I was probably into it for about $150. But once you get it done, you really will like the results. Just remember to start small, because each step has to feather out past the previous stage. So if you start with too large of an area, by the time you are done, you are buffing out half the panel! Let us know how it goes!
I am not from Thailand! I have visited several times, don't know much about tank makers there but you should totally check out chatuchak fish market.I am in Thailand right now and taking a look at the local aquarium scene. Do you have nay suggestions as to what to see or maybe an acrylic or glass tank maker in the area to visit?
China have a strong hold in producing cheap glass tanks. There are few local tank makers from Indonesia who work with glass and acrylics but are custom tank makerz. I guess Thailand is more about freshwater fish, I might be wrong.find a tank maker that makes tanks like the ADA brand for export to America. So far China seems to have a lock on the market.
Assuming that LWH then you could get away with 1/4" but it'll bow a bit, rimless would IMO be stretching it with 1/4" but you could do rimless with 3/8" outer walls and 1/4" bottom.What thickness will u use to build a sump of 32" x 16" x 15" with 3 compartments?
Assuming that LWH then you could get away with 1/4" but it'll bow a bit, rimless would IMO be stretching it with 1/4" but you could do rimless with 3/8" outer walls and 1/4" bottom.
My formula for all sumps anymore is 1/4" bottom, 3/8" outer walls, and 1/4" baffles except make "pressure baffles" 3/8" (where you have a water level difference on either side of the baffle). Rimless is OK to maybe 16" and after that, a 1/4" thick 1.5" wide perimeter euro (for smaller sumps, <30g) and maybe a 2" crossbrace if it works with the baffle placement. Bumping up the euro width is good when you can swing it, the wider/longer the tank, the wider the euro.
Baffle placement is a big factor, if you have a long fuge/skimmer section that has to be factored in, baffles provide a ton of support when done right (bonded in at the same time as ends so your bonds are structural) and can reduce the dependency on the euro