45 Day Fallow periods

[stambo3]

I thought of 2 things - it could be an early infection which for some reason spread or - 2 the lesion had nothing to do with the problem, but one of your parameters was off (which doesn't make sense since your corals are ok?). It's hard to tell now after the fact - can you describe what happened during the time you owned it - to me your water looks a little cloudy.

Other than that, sorry about your loss, and I would go with the fallow period as recommended. However, you need to take the clown out to do that - and I would put it in a QT tank and treat with the protocol if thats possible.

The water is cloudy now because I had massive cyanosis which went away in 7 days. When it came off the fireplaces it formed a very fine fine gray powder and the water became cloudy. I am now in the 5th month since starting. I changed it three times at 10%, but it's still a little dark. I have no live rocks or sand, they were all dead. That's exactly what I was asking, based on my description what the illness might be so I'm prepared with the appropriate pre-quarantine medicine if I ever decide to try again and should I take the clowns out and start a display quarantine? I understand from you that it is necessary and I think that if it is so, I will start from tomorrow. Thank you!!!

 

[MnFish1]

The water is cloudy now because I had massive cyanosis which went away in 7 days. When it came off the fireplaces it formed a very fine fine gray powder and the water became cloudy. I am now in the 5th month since starting. I changed it three times at 10%, but it's still a little dark. I have no live rocks or sand, they were all dead. That's exactly what I was asking, based on my description what the illness might be so I'm prepared with the appropriate pre-quarantine medicine if I ever decide to try again and should I take the clowns out and start a display quarantine? I understand from you that it is necessary and I think that if it is so, I will start from tomorrow. Thank you!!!

The quarantine protocol we recommend is a sticky at the top of the fish disease and treatment forum. It consists of 30 days copper (copper safe), and 2 treatments of praziquantel (Prazipro), and then observation.

I wonder if it's possible that some of the products from the tar caused i.e. a toxin (again - since corals are ok - thats less likely?.

The idea with quarantine is it's done in a separate tank. Your display tank can be left fish-less for 45-60 days. (i.e. you don't put the medications in the display tank).

There are also home-made water polishers using filter floss that could clear your cloudiness. 10% water changes are going to help but very very slowly.

 

[stambo3]

The water is cloudy now because I had massive cyanosis which went away in 7 days. When it came off the fireplaces it formed a very fine fine gray powder and the water became cloudy. I am now in the 5th month since starting. I changed it three times at 10%, but it's still a little dark. I have no live rocks or sand, they were all dead. That's exactly what I was asking, based on my description what the illness might be so I'm prepared with the appropriate pre-quarantine medicine if I ever decide to try again and should I take the clowns out and start a display quarantine? I understand from you that it is necessary and I think that if it is so, I will start from tomorrow. Thank you!!!

But Tang came with this brown spot, after 7 days the fins started to decay as if bitten. The next day all the fins shriveled up and turned brown. He could not swim or breathe normally. I immediately put him in QT, treated with EsHa Trimarin / we don't have your drugs here, the choice is small / after the thermometer and air stone were normal, but alas on the 10th day he died.

 

[stambo3]

The quarantine protocol we recommend is a sticky at the top of the fish disease and treatment forum. It consists of 30 days copper (copper safe), and 2 treatments of praziquantel (Prazipro), and then observation.

I wonder if it's possible that some of the products from the tar caused i.e. a toxin (again - since corals are ok - thats less likely?.

The idea with quarantine is it's done in a separate tank. Your display tank can be left fish-less for 45-60 days. (i.e. you don't put the medications in the display tank).

There are also home-made water polishers using filter floss that could clear your cloudiness. 10% water changes are going to help but very very slowly.

I am familiar with all the articles here about quarantine. I have a QT ready, but I was misled by the store that they have already quarantined. I traveled 200 miles to meet the seller on the road who traveled another 200 miles to deliver to another customer. I hadn't seen the fish in the store itself, it's a long way from me. I want to mention again that American drugs cannot be bought here. I am looking for their analogues with a similar chemical composition, it is not very easy. From now on I don't trust any fishmongers and I will quarantine every fish according to this protocol.I spoke to Mr. Randy Holmes-Farley and he mentioned toxins but snails and corals and clowns are happy. I use Google Translate and I didn't understand you about the filtering.

 

[MnFish1]

But Tang came with this brown spot, after 7 days the fins started to decay as if bitten. The next day all the fins shriveled up and turned brown. He could not swim or breathe normally. I immediately put him in QT, treated with EsHa Trimarin / we don't have your drugs here, the choice is small / after the thermometer and air stone were normal, but alas on the 10th day he died.

The way you describe it sounds like a bacterial infection. That product contains
Cuprum 2+ 9.1 mg, which is copper
　
Rivanolum 5.0 mg, Its a type of acridine
.
Proflavinæ 0.7 mg ad Aqua. - not sure what it is - but supposedly an antidisinfectent

I'm not sure any of these would be particularly affected for something like you describe. Are you positive that the clown was not bullying the tang?

 

[stambo3]

The way you describe it sounds like a bacterial infection. That product contains
Cuprum 2+ 9.1 mg, which is copper
　
Rivanolum 5.0 mg, Its a type of acridine
.
Proflavinæ 0.7 mg ad Aqua. - not sure what it is - but supposedly an antidisinfectent

I'm not sure any of these would be particularly affected for something like you describe. Are you positive that the clown was not bullying the tang?

 

[stambo3]

The clowns are small and Tanga bullied them. They stood only in one corner, and when they moved he chased them without harming them. I don't think they made his fins turn brown and he can't breathe and swim.

 

[MnFish1]

The clowns are small and Tanga bullied them. They stood only in one corner, and when they moved he chased them without harming them. I don't think they made his fins turn brown and he can't breathe and swim.

BTW - I meant to mention - it might be best to start your thread in the (will see if the mods can move these posts - so more people will be able to see/help). Also - the disease discussion isn't really related to the topic. @Jay Hemdal?

 

[stambo3]

Wanted to buy Waterlife SeAquariums Cuprazin 100ml but it was out of stock, no choice here with us, all other meds are for fresh water.

 

[stambo3]

BTW - Исках да спомена - може би е най-добре да започнете темата си в ( ще видите дали модовете могат да преместят тези публикации - така че повече хора ще могат да видят/помощ ). Също така - дискусията за болестта всъщност не е свързана с темата. [ USER = 156390 ] @Jay Hemdal [ / USER ]?

 

[stambo3]

BTW - I meant to mention - it might be best to start your thread in the (will see if the mods can move these posts - so more people will be able to see/help). Also - the disease discussion isn't really related to the topic. @Jay Hemdal?

Very sorry. Please excuse me. Delete everything, sorry. Sorry Mr. @Jay Hemdal !

 

[Reeferbadness]

In my own experience, I battled ich for about 2 years. I initially treated all my fish in a hospital tank (copper for 2-3 week) then just let the copper level drop after that naturally, with water changes until putting the fish back in the DT, while leaving my tank fallow for the recommended 72 days. Each time I would do this, within days of returning fish to the DT, spots would reappear. I would tear the tank down, catch the fish, threat with copper in a hospital tank, and let the tank go fallow for increasingly longer amounts of time, over 90 days at a time. Each time, within days of putting fish back in the DT, ich would return. So it seemed to me like even the 72 day number was an underestimation. The last time I let the tank go fallow for 3 months, I also ran 2 - 40w Lifegard UV sterilizers. And after doing that, my fish have not experienced a recurrence of ich in over a year now.

So I don’t know what to think about that 72 day number. It seems like not enough time to me. My fish in the hospital tank showed no signs of ich until I returned them to my DT, and then just about all fish were re-infected within days. So it always appeared like my DT was never fully cleared. So I still recommend waiting longer than 72 days to anyone that runs fallow.

But that was just my experience...

My opinion is that once you have Ich, you have ich, just learn to live with the fact. Install a good UV sterilizer and keep a close eye on any new fish that you add. End of story. No long fallow period, no tearing down the tank, just manage what you have wisely and you should be (mostly) fine. I've had Ich in my 200g tank for 3 years. All fish are long time residents, have built up some immunity and UV sterilizer keeps ich in check.

 

[MnFish1]

My opinion is that once you have Ich, you have ich, just learn to live with the fact. Install a good UV sterilizer and keep a close eye on any new fish that you add. End of story. No long fallow period, no tearing down the tank, just manage what you have wisely and you should be (mostly) fine. I've had Ich in my 200g tank for 3 years. All fish are long time residents, have built up some immunity and UV sterilizer keeps ich in check.

Curious, what makes you think this has something to do with Ich?

 

[MnFish1]

This is very interesting. I think the biggest issue is that some reefers have gone 76 days and still had Ick and such in their tank. Now was it introduced back thru some sort on means, or was it never gone, that will always be the question. Does temp and such play a role in how long they needed to go fallow, was their tank at 70 degrees, 78 degrees, or 81 degrees? I am sure you, @Jay Hemdal will understand that bacteria will always find a way to survive, its what they do best. This is a very interesting topic and discussion.

What if you consider the thought that most Ich strains die out in tanks assuming no further additions. If so - there is no ich in 'that tank'. Unless more fish/etc is added which sends in more ICH.

 

[jasonrusso]

What if you consider the thought that most Ich strains die out in tanks assuming no further additions. If so - there is no ich in 'that tank'. Unless more fish/etc is added which sends in more ICH.

What if you add a fish that doesn't have ich? It is possible.

 

[MnFish1]

What if you add a fish that doesn't have ich? It is possible.

how would you know? The other posters idea was that it can never be done because things always slip through. Of course if you can guarantee that a fish has never been exposed to ich lets say a tank bred fish yes

 

[mfinn]

What if you add a fish that doesn't have ich? It is possible.

Would this be to a tank that is in fallow protocol?

 

[static416]

For TTM, a number of people's fish are damaged by the process - either the frequent netting and moving, or people not realizing how fast ammonia can build up in the containers

Quoting an old post here refering to the risks of TTM, but this netting thing should not be under-estimated for strong/large fish.

My 9" Magnificent Foxface darted around a 20gal trying to avoid the net, and split his top lip open completely to the bone. Seems to be recovering, but not clear of the risk yet and would have been better to avoid netting him for the dip I was trying to do.