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Hey! I was looking for a file for a Biocube coralife 16 gallon media basket but can’t find one anywhere. Would you be able to generate one or make a template?James,
There are a number of users here on the forum that have 3D printers (myself included) that could probrably print them for you. The best thing to do is to post a thread requesting print needs and I am sure someone will step up.
I just bought one on Sunday. My first print is spaghetti. Steep learning curve.yesterday, I bought a creality ender 3 pro 3d printer as my first printer, will I be able to us abs filament in it? and how do I level the bed for first time printing? Any help from you guys will be greatly appreciated , so thanks in advance...
WIsh I had seen these posts before I bought the Ender..I would suggest the prusa mini+ if you want to go with something a bit cheaper than the mk3s. I have the ender 3 and after 2 years of dealing with it, I almost gave up on 3d printing. I got the mini a couple of weeks ago and in these two weeks o printed more than what the ender did in two years.
Prusa just works.
WIsh I had seen these posts before I bought the Ender..
I started with an Ender. Mucho Manual. Ended up giving it away. Getting leveling exactly right and a good clean print surface is critical. Bought an FLSun Q5 Delta printer. Delta printers are fun to play with. It was better than the Ender... but still more of a toy than something you can rely on. Still have it, haven't used it in a year or so.
Ended up buying a Prusa mini. Keep the print surface clean, redo the first layer calibration once in a while, keep the nozzle clean... it just works. Oh, if you're printing on PEI sheet, which I recommend... wipe it off with acetone when it starts not wanting to stick the first layer, and alcohol every few prints. A solid, clean print surface makes all the difference in getting good prints. I'd add that the Prusa Slicer is simple, and works great.
I've printed ABS, it's OK, but it smells horrible, and it's very prone to warping as it prints. If you're going to use ABS, build a cardboard box that fits around the printer... keep the heat in. Helps dramatically on warping.
For reef stuff, I'd highly recommend PETG. It's way easier to print with than ABS, doesn't stink up the room, and it's tough. I've had a PETG printed frag rack in my tank for YEARS now. No problem. It's mostly overgrown with coraline algae at this stage. Don't forget, if you're wanting something for your tank, print at 100% fill, or it'll float!
California Filament makes a high quality, low cost spool of PETG, comes on a cardboard spool. I used to buy Prusament, but I find this stuff works just as well, nearly half the price.
Like the others said, take the time to make sure the bed is level, the wheels and belts on all the axis are tight and true. There are a ton of youtube vids that are pretty helpful on learning the fundamentals. Also check your extruder e-steps, i think out the box they are like 93? But best to measure and calibrate. If that still is popping off the bed, if its glass, get an elmers purple gluestick, the washable school glue one and lay down a layer of that on the bed. I found gluesticks to be invaluable for petg and let you be a little lazy on cleaning the glass. HTHI just bought one on Sunday. My first print is spaghetti. Steep learning curve.
Let me tell you a secret that shouldn't be a secret. Try a Garolite G10 bed, if you are just printing with ABS(harder but not impossible on a Ender), PLA, or PETG. I don't use PETG but I do a LOT of ASA(ABS) and PLA printing and this bed surface is a game changer. I have a Voron 2.4 which is pretty awesome but the thing that made this printer a game changer was G10.
Look into Klipper once you get the basics down, and when you do give SuperSlicer or PrusaSlicer a try, its better than Cura(Creality slicer) ever could wish to be now that Arachne perimeter generator is integrated. I have a lot of friends with Enders who have been near quitting but switching slicers was the thing that ended up being that last change they needed to get them a working printer.
I have actually used super glue once and used debonder on it. The PEI was dead anyways so it wasn't much of a loss.Yep. Get it from the knife making sites. It's much much cheaper that way.
I switch between it and PEI and GeckoTek. PEI is the way to go for day to day prints, Garolite if I get something that doesn't want to stick and Geckotek for when I am tempted to use superglue and nails.
I'm still in the cave with glass & aquanet. really like how it works @ my humidity.I have actually used super glue once and used debonder on it. The PEI was dead anyways so it wasn't much of a loss.
Since I print so much ABS I have pretty much switched away from PEI as ABS likes to weld itself to PEI, yet it somehow still manages to warp away from the PEI. Purple glue stick helped with the welding issue, but didn't help with the warping. It is amazing how much that material likes to warp sometimes even in a 60C chamber.
I think some of the stuff in between hair spray + glass and a good PEI/G10 was a step backwards. Those plastic sheets that were knockoff buildtaks were such a problem for many.I'm still in the cave with glass & aquanet. really like how it works @ my humidity.