Woman building aquarium cabinet and setting up 200g tank

[Missbillygoat993]

Hello everyone, I finally became a member today. I have been keeping a reef tank for 2 years with the full support of my hubby.
I have been reading the posts here and some info online with regards to the set up. I now plan to build an 8ft tank Stan and order a dt and sump and just do the plumbing and cabinet stand myself.
i want a coast to coast internal overflow with the holes drilled in the bottom glass as shown in the photo.
My original plan was like an AIO tank with a full division of acrylic for the internal I overflow but I was told that it will eventually cause me problems because the length and the silicon might not bind or stick to the glass for years. I had problems with the wells of my ghost overflow box from leak so me decide on internal OB plus back wall of the tank is a solid wall.
many issues with the design I have attached?
plus I am also building my own cabinet.
i will put more supports for the stand but this is what I came up so far. Is screw better than nails to attach these wood together?
Plumbing what size is best for the drain pipes is 1.5 for drain and 3/4 for return be ok? Tank is 96 x 24 x20 inches.
hope you can help me out.
thank you

 

[Ranjib]

Hello everyone, I finally became a member today. I have been keeping a reef tank for 2 years with the full support of my hubby.
I have been reading the posts here and some info online with regards to the set up. I now plan to build an 8ft tank Stan and order a dt and sump and just do the plumbing and cabinet stand myself.
i want a coast to coast internal overflow with the holes drilled in the bottom glass as shown in the photo.
My original plan was like an AIO tank with a full division of acrylic for the internal I overflow but I was told that it will eventually cause me problems because the length and the silicon might not bind or stick to the glass for years. I had problems with the wells of my ghost overflow box from leak so me decide on internal OB plus back wall of the tank is a solid wall.
many issues with the design I have attached?
plus I am also building my own cabinet.
i will put more supports for the stand but this is what I came up so far. Is screw better than nails to attach these wood together?
Plumbing what size is best for the drain pipes is 1.5 for drain and 3/4 for return be ok? Tank is 96 x 24 x20 inches.
hope you can help me out.
thank you

#Respect , welcome to reef2reef

I don’t have much insights for larger stands , let’s get some advice from #reefsquad

 

[lapin]

Any issues with the design I have attached?

Not that I can see but pictures are small

I will put more supports for the stand but this is what I came up so far. Is screw better than nails to attach these wood together?

Yes a screw is better than a nail.

Plumbing: what size is best for the drain pipes is 1.5 for drain and 3/4 for return be ok?

Yes that should be fine what type of drain? Bean animal or? how many returns?

 

[redfishbluefish]

I would use RocketEngineer's plan, but use 2 x 8's for the top frame.

In addition, I'd use 3/4 plywood on the top to "level" out the dimensional lumber, and also skin with whatever you wish to keep the stand from racking.

 

[Jon Fishman]

I would do center supports for an 8’ stand. and WELCOME!

 

[GThompson]

Welcome to R2R. Good luck on your project and keep posting your progress on it.

 

[Dr. Dendrostein]

Hello everyone, I finally became a member today. I have been keeping a reef tank for 2 years with the full support of my hubby.
I have been reading the posts here and some info online with regards to the set up. I now plan to build an 8ft tank Stan and order a dt and sump and just do the plumbing and cabinet stand myself.
i want a coast to coast internal overflow with the holes drilled in the bottom glass as shown in the photo.
My original plan was like an AIO tank with a full division of acrylic for the internal I overflow but I was told that it will eventually cause me problems because the length and the silicon might not bind or stick to the glass for years. I had problems with the wells of my ghost overflow box from leak so me decide on internal OB plus back wall of the tank is a solid wall.
many issues with the design I have attached?
plus I am also building my own cabinet.
i will put more supports for the stand but this is what I came up so far. Is screw better than nails to attach these wood together?
Plumbing what size is best for the drain pipes is 1.5 for drain and 3/4 for return be ok? Tank is 96 x 24 x20 inches.
hope you can help me out.
thank you

Welcome, comrade. Keep us posted

 

[Greenreef75]

Welcome to R2R!

 

[Sako338]

Welcome aboard! Glad to have you!

 

[Wiskey]

I have always done an upright every 2 feet, this is a construction photo from a stand that was for my 180 and it's 6 foot long, it's still operating today though I haven't owned it for many years.

100_5906 by Wiskey2727, on Flickr

Screws are a must, but I have always screwed and glued everything. The stand is made of screwed and glued 2x4's then the 1/2 inch plywood is screwed and glued over every joint. It is structural. The back is solid, but on the front and side the doors are center cut, meaning the frame is cut out of one solid piece of ply as well. They are also structural and strengthen the joints.

Whiskey

 

[RocketEngineer]

I would like to add three small points,

1) That guy RocketEngineer (aka me ) Recommended at 96" that you add at least one center leg somewhere along the long sides. It doesn't have to be exactly in the center but the closer you are, the better of you will be.

2) Do NOT use treated lumber around the aquarium, especially reef aquariums. Most of the chemical treatments today use copper (which is toxic to inverts like snails/corals) or other toxic chemicals in order to inhibit the growth of organisms that would break down the wood. In the case of being indoors as well as being around a reef, it is not worth the risk of getting that in the tank.

3) The design you posted has 4X4s for the uprights. I have seen many of these that twist, split, and bow as they dry out which is not what you want supporting your tank. A single 2X4 is amazingly strong in compression and mounting a second one to it to give you a screwing edge is more than enough to support all but the heaviest tanks.

Hope that helps,
Rocket

 

[Missbillygoat993]

I would like to add three small points,

1) That guy RocketEngineer (aka me ) Recommended at 96" that you add at least one center leg somewhere along the long sides. It doesn't have to be exactly in the center but the closer you are, the better of you will be.

2) Do NOT use treated lumber around the aquarium, especially reef aquariums. Most of the chemical treatments today use copper (which is toxic to inverts like snails/corals) or other toxic chemicals in order to inhibit the growth of organisms that would break down the wood. In the case of being indoors as well as being around a reef, it is not worth the risk of getting that in the tank.

3) The design you posted has 4X4s for the uprights. I have seen many of these that twist, split, and bow as they dry out which is not what you want supporting your tank. A single 2X4 is amazingly strong in compression and mounting a second one to it to give you a screwing edge is more than enough to support all but the heaviest tanks.

Hope that helps,
Rocket

thank you very much for the detailed explanation.

the top frame and bottom frame are 2x4.
The stand on the corner is 2 by 3 that is placed like an L shape and then I am planning to add another 2x4x32 or 2x 3 x32 in the inner corner where the L shape is. At the back I intend to put more supports and 2 support in the front spaced at 24 inches on each side but forgo the middle support
I am not good in drawing but I plan to do this just to be sure but no support in the middle of the front side.

 

[Rogued_Reefer]

Welcome to R2R!!! Make a build thread so we can follow your journey with you!

 

[RocketEngineer]

The right hand picture looks good but I would use 2X4s for everything. 2X3s that I've found have a ton of knots and other junk. Look for straight, clear 2X4s and don't be afraid to dig for them. Start off right. Looking forward to seeing it come together.

 

[Michael Lane]

I have a similar set up, and used 2x4s as RocketEngineer recommended. I have a single (offset) center support in the front, and 2 center supports in the back. The single front support allows room to install the sump (and change it several years later). I beefed up the top (red) pieces to 2x6 since I only have a single center support in the front. I've been very happy with how the stand has held up over the last 6+ years.

 

[Ron Reefman]

Ask questions if you want.

 

[Squidward]

Use 2 X 6s for your stand. Stronger and better than 2 X 4s. I built my 300g stand just like how Joey from DIY King did.

 

[Pntbll687]

thank you very much for the detailed explanation.

the top frame and bottom frame are 2x4.
The stand on the corner is 2 by 3 that is placed like an L shape and then I am planning to add another 2x4x32 or 2x 3 x32 in the inner corner where the L shape is. At the back I intend to put more supports and 2 support in the front spaced at 24 inches on each side but forgo the middle support
I am not good in drawing but I plan to do this just to be sure but no support in the middle of the front side.

Go with the design in the second picture. Especially if the sump is going to be in the stand. The larger center opening will make life SOOOOOO much easier to get equipment in and out.

Take your time and plan eveything out now. I rushed through mine and bought a premade stand. I had to put the sump in before the tank went on. Now I have no way to get the sump out if I ever need to.

 

[revhtree]

I would like to add three small points,

1) That guy RocketEngineer (aka me ) Recommended at 96" that you add at least one center leg somewhere along the long sides. It doesn't have to be exactly in the center but the closer you are, the better of you will be.

2) Do NOT use treated lumber around the aquarium, especially reef aquariums. Most of the chemical treatments today use copper (which is toxic to inverts like snails/corals) or other toxic chemicals in order to inhibit the growth of organisms that would break down the wood. In the case of being indoors as well as being around a reef, it is not worth the risk of getting that in the tank.

3) The design you posted has 4X4s for the uprights. I have seen many of these that twist, split, and bow as they dry out which is not what you want supporting your tank. A single 2X4 is amazingly strong in compression and mounting a second one to it to give you a screwing edge is more than enough to support all but the heaviest tanks.

Hope that helps,
Rocket

Awesome to have you here at R2R!!

 

[Missbillygoat993]

I am finally progressing followed RocketEngineer’s suggestion.
still need to put columns in the middle part still a long way to go.
Any suggestion on what paint is best for the inside?
What size of wood should be use for canopy? I decided to change my tank to a peninsula type so I can access the piping son the side easily if problems occur.