Woke up to find almost everything dead.

[namlessdude]

I woke up this morning to find about 9 snails, 1 decorator crab, 2 fire shrimps, all my bristle worms dead. I feel incredibly defeated...

I checked parameters and my pH is at 8.2, phosphate at .25, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, ammonia 0, but my alkalinity was off the charts according so salifert test. I ran the titration and the color never changed which should mean its 16+dKH.
i have no idea why it spiked. I did dose the tank slowly over a week with marine buffer to raise my pH to 8.3 from 7.8.

My GSP corla isnt really thriving either and I have 1 more snail and 1 more designer crab that i need to save...

I will buy a phosphate pad for my filter which should decrease phosphate, but what the heck killed everything? What should i do??? I am a second away from shutting everything down.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I woke up this morning to find about 9 snails, 1 decorator crab, 2 fire shrimps, all my bristle worms dead. I feel incredibly defeated...

I checked parameters and my pH is at 8.2, phosphate at .25, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, ammonia 0, but my alkalinity was off the charts according so salifert test. I ran the titration and the color never changed which should mean its 16+dKH.
i have no idea why it spiked. I did dose the tank slowly over a week with marine buffer to raise my pH to 8.3 from 7.8.

My GSP corla isnt really thriving either and I have 1 more snail and 1 more designer crab that i need to save...

I will buy a phosphate pad for my filter which should decrease phosphate, but what the heck killed everything? What should i do??? I am a second away from shutting everything down.

Its a water issue and can be false salinity reading, elevated temperature. . . . I see phosphate very high (you want .05 - .1) and if a newer tank may also be a contribyor. I have a feeling you are using API test kits and encourage you to take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at
16dkh also high as you want 8-11 max
Are you using tap water by chance?

 

[Glowurm]

Its a water issue and can be false salinity reading, elevated temperature. . . . I see phosphate very high (you want .05 - .1) and if a newer tank may also be a contribyor. I have a feeling you are using API test kits and encourage you to take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at
16dkh also high as you want 8-11 max

Is .25 really that high? Sure it could be lower but not sure Phosphate is the cause for all his inverts dying.

 

[Glowurm]

So everything dead and your tests show no Nitrate?

Have you used copper by any chance?

Edit - How old is the tank? Everything looks weirdly new..

 

[vetteguy53081]

Is .25 really that high? Sure it could be lower but not sure Phosphate is the cause for all his inverts dying.

Contributor, not cause. Its overall water when all die and can be rock if copper present as well as use of tap water

 

[namlessdude]

Its a water issue and can be false salinity reading, elevated temperature. . . . I see phosphate very high (you want .05 - .1) and if a newer tank may also be a contribyor. I have a feeling you are using API test kits and encourage you to take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at
16dkh also high as you want 8-11 max

I can go get my water checked once my LFS opens up but that will be for a few day (they open on Wednesday). The alkalinity went off the chart since the color didnt chage, could the high alkalinity cause this death? Also, what would make it spike that high that quickly?

Would phosphate cause that? Im trying to learn what different spikes can cause to be able to address them in the future.

What's weird is, my 2 clown fish and 1 bowtie damsel are swimming around and look comfortable, but for some reason the cleanup crew just didn't make it (the bowtie was introduced at the same time as the shrimp)

 

[namlessdude]

So everything dead and your tests show no Nitrate?

Have you used copper by any chance?

Edit - How old is the tank? Everything looks weirdly new..

Tank is about a month old. I have not used copper on this tank ever. As a matter of fact in Canada we can't use copper since it required vet's prescription. And yes, 0 nitrate. I used to see it higher a week or so ago, but it's been 0 for the last week.

 

[namlessdude]

Contributor, not cause. Its overall water when all die and can be rock if copper present as well as use of tap water

I don't use tap water. When i established the tank I have used RODI water i bought from the store. I have supplemented about 5 gallons into the tank from water I filtered myself. The filter is a 4 stage RODI system.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

My friend you've been given some great advice in your previous threads, you are basically going way too fast and not doing any research, this is a research heavy hobby that requires supreme patience.

Less than one month old tank and less than one month experience equals many dead animals. What happened to that blue tang? Not meaning at all to give you a hard time, you can tell me to buzz off, but your frustration is obvious and we want to help, but at the same time its sad for us to read about these animals dying needlessly.

In this stage of the hobby, allowing the bacteria and the micro-organisms to reproduce is more important than adding fish or corals.

Please slow down and take some time to do some reading, your next move is to build a successful biomme, this will take care of your fish and inverts and coral.

Set Up for Success by Biome Cycling Your New Reef Tank EP: 07

Cycling your aquarium establishes a healthy microbiome that not only consists of beneficial nitrifying bacteria but a variety of other organisms that can help combat pests commonly experienced during the first few months of a new aquarium.

www.bulkreefsupply.com

Understanding the Coral Biome and Microbiome | Reef Builders | The Reef and Saltwater Aquarium Blog

As our understanding of corals and coral reefs has increased over the past few decades it has become increasingly clear that a coral reef and even each individual coral is far more diverse than we…

reefbuilders.com

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reefkeeping.com

The Ultimate Guide to Setting Up a Thriving Reef Tank

Setting up a reef tank, however, is more than just an aesthetic venture; it requires careful planning, dedication, and an understanding of the delicate balance needed to maintain a healthy marine ecosystem. The team here at Top Shelf Aquatics has created a guide the "ultimate" guide to setting...

topshelfaquatics.com

 

[exnisstech]

Is .25 really that high? Sure it could be lower but not sure Phosphate is the cause for all his inverts dying.

I shake my head every time I read something like that. My most succesful tank runs 0.2-0.4 and has been thriving at those levels for years.

 

[namlessdude]

My friend you've been given some great advice in your previous threads, you are basically going way too fast and not doing any research, this is a research heavy hobby that requires supreme patience.

Less than one month old tank and less than one month experience equals many dead animals. What happened to that blue tang? Not meaning at all to give you a hard time, you can tell me to buzz off, but your frustration is obvious and we want to help, but at the same time its sad for us to read about these animals dying needlessly.

In this stage of the hobby, allowing the bacteria and the micro-organisms to reproduce is more important than adding fish or corals.

Please slow down and take some time to do some reading, your next move is to build a successful biomme, this will take care of your fish and inverts and coral.

Set Up for Success by Biome Cycling Your New Reef Tank EP: 07

Cycling your aquarium establishes a healthy microbiome that not only consists of beneficial nitrifying bacteria but a variety of other organisms that can help combat pests commonly experienced during the first few months of a new aquarium.

www.bulkreefsupply.com

Understanding the Coral Biome and Microbiome | Reef Builders | The Reef and Saltwater Aquarium Blog

As our understanding of corals and coral reefs has increased over the past few decades it has become increasingly clear that a coral reef and even each individual coral is far more diverse than we…

reefbuilders.com

Loading…

reefkeeping.com

The Ultimate Guide to Setting Up a Thriving Reef Tank

Setting up a reef tank, however, is more than just an aesthetic venture; it requires careful planning, dedication, and an understanding of the delicate balance needed to maintain a healthy marine ecosystem. The team here at Top Shelf Aquatics has created a guide the "ultimate" guide to setting...

topshelfaquatics.com

I completely understand what you mean and I am aware that you aren't meaning it in a rude way. I feel terrible for the animals that are dying in my care more than you can imagine. But, I have been doing research. I watched the full 64+ videos on how to start a tank from BRSTv and since the Tang I have researched every fish i have bought. The 2 clowns came in after the readings were at 0. The bowtie came in a bit after and I only got it because it is hardy and it can thrive in the tank size i have. I improved the diet of feeding and bought a lot of new food which i mentioned in the other threads. When i bought the clean up crew, i bought what I was told was appropriate by both my my LFS and research. I learned how to drip acclimate to reduce stress. Gave them hiding spots and made sure they have food. I genuinely did everything I could from the knowledge i thought was sufficient.

I admit, i messed up at some point along the way. And I am only explaining this to hopefully plead my case that I am not just a guy walking into stores, thinking fish is pretty, buying fish and throwing them in a tank then wondering why they die with no remorse to their suffering.

I will watch the videos, reduce phosphate, reduce alkalinity, give the tank more time (whatever is appropriate) then maybe try again down the road.

Thank you very much for your help and patience.

 

[OrionN]

I think your fatal error is chasing the pH. pH reading is full of error. I keep reef for 40 years and NEVER check my pH. Dosing buffer was the reason why your tank is all out of balance and kill your very hardy animal in your tank. You should do essentially 100% water change and start over. Your tank will likely recycle. Remove all the animals you can and put them in a better environment until you get your tank stable.

 

[namlessdude]

I think your fatal error is chasing the pH. pH reading is full of error. I keep reef for 40 years and NEVER check my pH. Dosing buffer was the reason why your tank is all out of balance and kill your very hardy animal in your tank. You should do essentially 100% water change and start over. Your tank will likely recycle. Remove all the animals you can and put them in a better environment until you get your tank stable.

I have a cycled 10 gallon I can move my fish into, would my 2 clowns and 1 bowtie damsel fight in such a small space or will they be okay for 1-2 weeks?

 

[OrionN]

Do you know:
pH is a logarithmic scale measure the H+ ion in the water. There are so many things that can change the pH. Having 2-3 more people in the room can decrease pH. Light on or off can change pH, open window or close window can change pH. pH of 7.8 increase to 8.3 means you decrease the concentration of H+ by 5 folds.

Don’t check your pH. Just worry about Calcium, alkalinity, Mg, salinity and temperature. The pH will take care of itself.

 

[mh0ward]

If your previous posts are still accurate, then I’d say, aside from being a new tank that is nowhere near matured or stable, the 1.019 salinity is the biggest contributor. Many fish can tolerate that, but not inverts/coral. I suspect that once a few inverts/coral died from hyposalinity, it polluted the water creating a bit of an avalanche.

 

[slingfox]

To get better help, you should provide more information about your setup (ie, size of tank, how long has it been running, equipment used, any dosing you do, what is your filtration setup-up, provide photos of your setup, what livestock you have, do you do water changes and if so how often and how much, etc.).

Also, as noted above, what test kits are you using? What "marine buffer" did you use?

This this kind of die off it's definitely a water quality issue. If I am in your shoes, I would do as large a water change as possible. Also get an ICP test to make sure there are no contaminants. Then detail your setup and listen to advice on how to improve it.

 

[slingfox]

Do you know:
pH is a logarithmic scale measure the H+ ion in the water. There are so many things that can change the pH. Having 2-3 more people in the room can decrease pH. Light on or off can change pH, open window or close window can change pH. pH of 7.8 increase to 8.3 means you decrease the concentration of H+ by 5 folds.

Don’t check your pH. Just worry about Calcium, alkalinity, Mg, salinity and temperature. The pH will take care of itself.

Agreed. For a tank this young, pH should not be a parameter to focus on.

 

[namlessdude]

To get better help, you should provide more information about your setup (ie, size of tank, how long has it been running, equipment used, any dosing you do, what is your filtration setup-up, provide photos of your setup, what livestock you have, do you do water changes and if so how often and how much, etc.).

Also, as noted above, what test kits are you using? What "marine buffer" did you use?

This this kind of die off it's definitely a water quality issue. If I am in your shoes, I would do as large a water change as possible. Also get an ICP test to make sure there are no contaminants. Then detail your setup and listen to advice on how to improve it.

I forgot to include tank size but it's a 37 gallon with 2 clowns and 1 bowtie damsel. I did mention the salinity. The filtration is a fluval 207 with carbon, mechanical filter sponge, and ceramic balls. I don't currently dose anything other than the pH.

I have a qt tank that is cycled sitting at 10 gallons, ill move the fish and the coral there and change the water for the current tank.

 

[namlessdude]

Agreed. For a tank this young, pH should not be a parameter to focus on.

It's so confusing. When I asked before I had some people say the pH is low and I should work on bringing it up, which I did very slowly with a product the LFS said is safe to dose with and cannot hurt the tank no matter how much extra I add. I still followed instructions but...

 

[namlessdude]

Do you know:
pH is a logarithmic scale measure the H+ ion in the water. There are so many things that can change the pH. Having 2-3 more people in the room can decrease pH. Light on or off can change pH, open window or close window can change pH. pH of 7.8 increase to 8.3 means you decrease the concentration of H+ by 5 folds.

Don’t check your pH. Just worry about Calcium, alkalinity, Mg, salinity and temperature. The pH will take care of itself.

I appreciate the info on pH. I am a science student and we learn a lot about pH in chem. I can see how so many variables can fluctuate the pH, but, a buffer is supposed to control for that since it adds a weak acid or a weak base that would instantly react with any additional H or OH to to maintain a consistent pH. supposedly what I dosed the tank with was a buffer that would help, but little did I know, it didn't.