Why cant I keep euphyllia?

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Krak-A-Pat

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How much water do you have? Quick search says that salt starts at 1350 mg and I don't see any heavy mg consumers... How are you testing mg? It could be very high throwing off balance..
Im using aquaforest mag test. I dont have many corals which is why its weird. Its balanced out now to be steady at around 13-1350. But i had a period where it was dropping down around 1150. Ive also had a LFS check it for me and it produced the same results
 

Ben's Pico Reefing

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I probably need a few more beers for this class

But...



The marine biome

The marine biome is primarily made up of the saltwater oceans. It is the largest biome on planet Earth and covers around 70% of the Earth's surface and over 90% of life on Earth lives in the ocean.

I have a piece of this biome in my man cave.
Good morning, The article wasn't addressing marine biome as a whole. which would include everything that effects the tank even your thermostat setting at house, opening doors, even the air quality outside your home has a play. It was discussing biome on and in the coral itself. But going to specifics of the tank, all equipment and such are apart in that aspect of the overall biome so yes, it's all apart of the biome. The biology of tanks though mainly live on or inside surface areas and organisms. Not much in water column. Your at more risk cleaning filters or filter areas to cause issues.

Water changes can and do effect biome of coral but unless you are really change around numbers and trace elements, you won't have issues and will have more of a positive impact. Doesn't mean things can't happen negatively.
 

willy00

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I had a similar problem with euphyllia when I added a hammer to my 16g tank 6 months in. I was also chasing magnesium levels, phosphate etc… I found out that my salinity was 1.022 because most refractometers can’t give us information with any sort of accuracy... I also increased blue light and made sure it was getting low/moderate flow. The most important factors I have realized looking back and having several full and colorful euphyllia? Time and water changes, the answers I always hated to hear.
 

TokenReefer

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I don't trust mg testing; Randy's no mg test thread aside. I recently pegged my mg because salifert said it was x and I wanted to bump it up. I've since installed a trident and it tests I think 3 times a day... It's all over the board (although trending down) since I want it to decline I'm not dosing; testing shows rises and falls... Not saying this is yiur issue just an aside :)
 

TokenReefer

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I’ve had mine in 2-300 PAR if not higher - Torches have been in around 350-400 and Hammers/Frogspawn in 250-300 PAR.

It’s why I question if we underestimate coral and their capabilities.
I think you're right; Sanjay Joshi think so at least too
 

Troylee

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I would start by making sure temperature and salinity are in check.

I'm not too worried about your parameter levels.

That being said, either that PAR must be wrong, or that's the likely problem.  Most euphyllia like par between 50 and 100. Ive heard some people that keep different PAR on their torches, but they are few and far between compaired to the majority.

I would either adjust the lighting down, or if you plan to keep acros, move the euphyllia to a lower PAR around 75.
I keep torches and hammers in 200-400 myself. I use halides thou and they love it! Now acan’s and challies is around 50-100 at best.
 

schooncw

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My PO is a constant 1.0 and nitrate usually around 40. I do regular water changes every 2-4 weeks with Reef Crystals and test for nothing, other than PO and nitrate.
Absolutely no idea where PH, alk, ca, mg is. Its overstocked and overfed.
I had just done maintenance before this pic and my corals usually look a tad better.
IMG_7249.jpeg
 
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i cant think

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You definitely don't want your white spectrum at 100? Maybe 25%, corals don't need white it's only for viewing pleasure.
If I’m honest, it’s the other way around. Blues are for viewing pleasure - actually corals waste more energy producing those heavy colours (they’re basically a protectant from the harsher light) and tend to thrive best under whites for growth.
 

Lavey29

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If I’m honest, it’s the other way around. Blues are for viewing pleasure - actually corals waste more energy producing those heavy colours (they’re basically a protectant from the harsher light) and tend to thrive best under whites for growth.
Corals don't need white light. Why are companies like ecotech producing reef lights that are 90% blue spectrum (XR 15 and 30 blue). Why are the preset programs on lights using very limited white spectrum? It's because corals don't need white light. It's for viewing pleasure only.
 

topjimmy

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Corals don't need white light. Why are companies like ecotech producing reef lights that are 90% blue spectrum (XR 15 and 30 blue). Why are the preset programs on lights using very limited white spectrum? It's because corals don't need white light. It's for viewing pleasure only.
Because people like looking at blue tanks with fluorescent glowing things in them.
 

steveschuerger

I love Gonis and Euphyllia. Maybe too much
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Mmm, whites are at 2% during peak hrs and blues at 70%. Not a super fan of “windex” during the daytime. Keep blues on a very slow ramp down thru the evening. Torches are at about 250-300 par. Frogs and hammers anywhere from 120-180. Gonis are in similar range of par as well.
 
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