White dot parasite??

[BxstardXI]

Check the tank rating for the pump, I don't know what it is.

If the Oceanart Reef Balance has nitrifying bacteria, yes.

This will probably be longer than 2 weeks. 4 weeks in copper for the fish but the tank needs to be fallow for 76ish days.

You can do water changes.

Follow this protocol :

Thread 'Current Quarantine Protocol' https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/current-quarantine-protocol.825055/

Will they survive in a 180l tank for 4 weeks? With barely anything? 80days aswell!? Thats like 3 months. If I were to place the coral in the sump after the treatment and turn on the heat above 29degrees for 5days (more or less whats best) to kill the parasites off would that work? the bacteria in the rocks may be able to survive that

Im so worried now ngl. please tell me they will survive that qt tank for so long, and if the heating plan is not efficient then after the treatment is done how often do i need to change the water in the qt from my tank and how much%? Wont they need a skimmer aswell then in the qt tank after the treatment is done?? Im not sure if i can filter that water correctly or how to take care of it without living rock, i dont want that instable water switch thing happening resulting in them still dying (forgot the word, lil stresses. i hope it makes sense)

 

[Dburr1014]

I don't think a 180l will be big enough.
You have a tang and the really big fish. What is that fish?

 

[BxstardXI]

I don't think a 180l will be big enough.
You have a tang and the really big fish. What is that fish?

Then i think it would be better to have them in their own space in the sump, have the big fish in the left side of the sump with the cleaner wrasse, water filled to the edge as high as possible (its a spinefoot btw) and have the 4 occelaris in the right side(will remove everything in the sump) and the butterfly, dragonet and angelfish in the middle as i need to hand feed them live copepods then. Gotta figure some way out to have water circulation in there aswell.

But then still, how can i make sure they survive 80days? Will the heat method not work?

 

[Dburr1014]

#fishmedic

 

[MnFish1]

Thats probably cuz its a dutch brand, im not sure if they sell world wide. These are the products I use. The left one is reef safe and the blue one is not

Im suspecting my butterfly has it too as they have white freckels on the tail, I do not know how on earth im going to get that one out. It only eats copepods or other small vertebrae in the rocks so it never goes far enough from it for me to catch and also leaves when it sees a net. Trap wont work for it

Man im f*cking screwed aren't I

It is FEMSAL

 

[MnFish1]

Then i think it would be better to have them in their own space in the sump, have the big fish in the left side of the sump with the cleaner wrasse, water filled to the edge as high as possible (its a spinefoot btw) and have the 4 occelaris in the right side(will remove everything in the sump) and the butterfly, dragonet and angelfish in the middle as i need to hand feed them live copepods then. Gotta figure some way out to have water circulation in there aswell.

But then still, how can i make sure they survive 80days? Will the heat method not work?

There is no heat method of which I'm aware. Except - if you increase the temp of a fallow tank you may be able to decrease the time - however - if you have corals, etc - this will not be as helpful

 

[BxstardXI]

There is no heat method of which I'm aware. Except - if you increase the temp of a fallow tank you may be able to decrease the time - however - if you have corals, etc - this will not be as helpful

im thinking the best solution here rn to kill off the parasites so they are absent for a while. My idea is to move the fish to the sump, use pipes for hiding places, give the fish the space based of size. Close of the water from above, give them all the treatment, after the treatment keep them in there so it has a total off 80days but on every second day refresh the water for 30% from the main tank (which will be above, please note if more is required) also add in suplements in the qt tank like vitamins, liquid filter material and the reef balance I mentioned before (bacteria exc), im going to the store tomorrow aswell to get other necessaries id need for the main tank too so it stays in balance. Considering that if I were to remove the contents of the sump there would be still enough movement of water and place for the fish if i buy a small boost pump to bring the water back to start including an air pump in each compartiment. Also quick question maybe turning the lights off earlier so they are in the dark longer keeps them less stressed? Reminds me to buy seachem stress guard too, thnx haha. Just in case

Id think on long terms this would be better than having to keep catching one out treat it and then having them parasites back 2 months later repeating the same thing again and again

Please tell me your thoughts on this idea, if its approved and the best solution ill do it first thing tomorrow.

 

[MnFish1]

im thinking the best solution here rn to kill off the parasites so they are absent for a while. My idea is to move the fish to the sump, use pipes for hiding places, give the fish the space based of size. Close of the water from above, give them all the treatment, after the treatment keep them in there so it has a total off 80days but on every second day refresh the water for 30% from the main tank (which will be above, please note if more is required) also add in suplements in the qt tank like vitamins, liquid filter material and the reef balance I mentioned before (bacteria exc), im going to the store tomorrow aswell to get other necessaries id need for the main tank too so it stays in balance. Considering that if I were to remove the contents of the sump there would be still enough movement of water and place for the fish if i buy a small boost pump to bring the water back to start including an air pump in each compartiment. Also quick question maybe turning the lights off earlier so they are in the dark longer keeps them less stressed? Reminds me to buy seachem stress guard too, thnx haha. Just in case

Id think on long terms this would be better than having to keep catching one out treat it and then having them parasites back 2 months later repeating the same thing again and again

Please tell me your thoughts on this idea, if its approved and the best solution ill do it first thing tomorrow.

Generally speaking, you want to separate QT and displays by a number of feet. I'm not sure that the data on this is as solid as the recommendations have made it seem (@Jay Hemdal will know). Lowering light some does tend to lower stress. It's hard to imagine (for me) exactly what you're planning - as to the moving of water, etc - later in the process - no issues with that - assuming I'm understanding what you mean

 

[BxstardXI]

Generally speaking, you want to separate QT and displays by a number of feet. I'm not sure that the data on this is as solid as the recommendations have made it seem (@Jay Hemdal will know). Lowering light some does tend to lower stress. It's hard to imagine (for me) exactly what you're planning - as to the moving of water, etc - later in the process - no issues with that - assuming I'm understanding what you mean

Oh how thats strange, come you need to have them so far apart?? I used to treat my fish for disease before in a 70l qt tank right next to the main one and they had healed well with further no issues.

Im not sure it would be possible for me to move them all to a new tank in the garage (only spot available then) and then keep 2 tanks running, the main tank will probably get unbalanced in the process and the corals will die if I were to have to keep taking water out to refresh it for the fish. Im very worried how id do that and am scared to for that aswell to go wrong

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Oh how thats strange, come you need to have them so far apart?? I used to treat my fish for disease before in a 70l qt tank right next to the main one and they had healed well with further no issues.

Im not sure it would be possible for me to move them all to a new tank in the garage (only spot available then) and then keep 2 tanks running, the main tank will probably get unbalanced in the process and the corals will die if I were to have to keep taking water out to refresh it for the fish. Im very worried how id do that and am scared to for that aswell to go wrong

This issue boils down to "biosecurity", That is not an exact science - just like you don't catch a cold every time somebody sneezes near you, but if NOBODY sneezes near you, you'll never catch a cold. Some people have tried to apply exact measurements to this, "each tank must be 12' feet apart" - things like that. Of course, that's ridiculous, there are too many variables. I once had an aquarist who went tank to tank, dipping there hands into each tank while feeding....they could spread disease pretty far that way (grin).

Here is an article I wrote on the topic:

Biosecurity

A short introduction to aquarium biosecurity

www.reef2reef.com

 

[MnFish1]

Oh how thats strange, come you need to have them so far apart?? I used to treat my fish for disease before in a 70l qt tank right next to the main one and they had healed well with further no issues.

Im not sure it would be possible for me to move them all to a new tank in the garage (only spot available then) and then keep 2 tanks running, the main tank will probably get unbalanced in the process and the corals will die if I were to have to keep taking water out to refresh it for the fish. Im very worried how id do that and am scared to for that aswell to go wrong

You do not need to keep replacing water from your display in a quarantine tank - you just have mixed salt water on hand (with the appropriate copper level).. Spread from tank to tank is possible as the parasites are not all killed immediately. However, I will say having a therapeutic copper level somewhat mitigates this.

The benefit of not using the sump is that your main tank will not 'become out of balance'.

 

[BxstardXI]

You do not need to keep replacing water from your display in a quarantine tank - you just have mixed salt water on hand (with the appropriate copper level).. Spread from tank to tank is possible as the parasites are not all killed immediately. However, I will say having a therapeutic copper level somewhat mitigates this.

The benefit of not using the sump is that your main tank will not 'become out of balance'.

The fish are in quarantine rn, ive also scooped out the flooring/sand and giving that a 2 day osmose soak, ive bought an UV lamp aswell to attach to the sump for when the treatment is over and the water flows up and doen the from the tank again and I can set it back to as it once was. Hopefully this will do. With copper level you mean medicine right??

 

[MnFish1]

The fish are in quarantine rn, ive also scooped out the flooring/sand and giving that a 2 day osmose soak, ive bought an UV lamp aswell to attach to the sump for when the treatment is over and the water flows up and doen the from the tank again and I can set it back to as it once was. Hopefully this will do. With copper level you mean medicine right??

Yes - I meant the copper

 

[BxstardXI]

Yes - I meant the copper

This issue boils down to "biosecurity", That is not an exact science - just like you don't catch a cold every time somebody sneezes near you, but if NOBODY sneezes near you, you'll never catch a cold. Some people have tried to apply exact measurements to this, "each tank must be 12' feet apart" - things like that. Of course, that's ridiculous, there are too many variables. I once had an aquarist who went tank to tank, dipping there hands into each tank while feeding....they could spread disease pretty far that way (grin).

Here is an article I wrote on the topic:

Biosecurity

A short introduction to aquarium biosecurity

www.reef2reef.com

This issue boils down to "biosecurity", That is not an exact science - just like you don't catch a cold every time somebody sneezes near you, but if NOBODY sneezes near you, you'll never catch a cold. Some people have tried to apply exact measurements to this, "each tank must be 12' feet apart" - things like that. Of course, that's ridiculous, there are too many variables. I once had an aquarist who went tank to tank, dipping there hands into each tank while feeding....they could spread disease pretty far that way (grin).

Here is an article I wrote on the topic:

Biosecurity

A short introduction to aquarium biosecurity

www.reef2reef.com

So no physical contact with the water from both the tanks at all is the best then, noted. these are parasites that they were all around swimming with apparently, Not viruses spread by a simple sneeze. so id rather treat them all, better safe than sorry yknow.

Yes - I meant the copper

 

[BxstardXI]

Yes - I meant the copper

Then I think I should be fine, the fish are all moved. Image included, its messy but im not done cleaning up yet haha

I noticed just in time the Cobrasal was over date and ordered a new brand arriving tomorrow that the store adviced they use aswell "Seachem Cupramine" and the vitamins I ordered

Ive bought a UV light to put with the boost pump when the treatment is over (edit, installing UV tomorrow attached to the external filter) the sand/bottom is now soaking in osmose to kill off the parasites and its eggs and i have enough bacteria and liquid filter material to have the main tank going for a few weeks and installed my extra external filter to it where I used the filter material that was in the sump. So now its just waiting to install the rest until the treatment happening underneath it is done and I can change it back to original. Add back the fish, Removing all water from the sump, use osmose to rinse, clean and add in the "cuprisorb" by seachem to get the left over copper and metals out

But just to be sure, so just osmose with added salt is good enough for a water change for the fish in qt?? How much %should be refreshed? Weekly or ever couple of days?

so far I think im doing okay and definitely trying everything i can

 

[shoedy]

Hi, I’m in the Netherlands too and dealing with ich at the moment. Already lost two (three?) fish to it and installed UV yesterday. Also got a second cleaner shrimp as they do visit the other one quite often now.

Getting all the fish out is not a real option for me so trying to battle it the more organic way.

Where you at? I’m in Amsterdam

 

[BxstardXI]

Hi, I’m in the Netherlands too and dealing with ich at the moment. Already lost two (three?) fish to it and installed UV yesterday. Also got a second cleaner shrimp as they do visit the other one quite often now.

Getting all the fish out is not a real option for me so trying to battle it the more organic way.

Where you at? I’m in Amsterdam

Im located in south-holland, town next to alphen aan den rijn.

Id buy a fish trap, it takes alot of patience but eventually you can catch them all. Or ask help removing the rocks like i did. I dont think organic fighting will work with this parasite considering it already took 10+ fish away from me before. Im going all in rn with all ways trying to get rid of them

 

[shoedy]

Im located in south-holland, town next to alphen aan den rijn.

Id buy a fish trap, it takes alot of patience but eventually you can catch them all. Or ask help removing the rocks like i did. I dont think organic fighting will work with this parasite considering it already took 10+ fish away from me before. Im going all in rn with all ways trying to get rid of them

The issue for me has more do with the quarantine setup, I can turn the ATO tank into one but setting up a bigger one is going to be an issue in Amsterdam apt housing…

Gave the tang some freshwater dips which seems to help a little bit

 

[BxstardXI]

The issue for me has more do with the quarantine setup, I can turn the ATO tank into one but setting up a bigger one is going to be an issue in Amsterdam apt housing…

Gave the tang some freshwater dips which seems to help a little bit

Someone said earlier to me that when the parasites disappear they come back 2 times worse if not treated properly using copper. I do really hope it works permanently for you though! Definitely suggest vitamins in his food as that seems to work well too. Other than that i can ofcourse give you more advice from my experience but since the ones before that failed with the ich and im also taking my advice from experts its better to ask them haha, I dont want you to do the wrong moves too yknow.

 

[shoedy]

Someone said earlier to me that when the parasites disappear they come back 2 times worse if not treated properly using copper. I do really hope it works permanently for you though! Definitely suggest vitamins in his food as that seems to work well too. Other than that i can ofcourse give you more advice from my experience but since the ones before that failed with the ich and im also taking my advice from experts its better to ask them haha, I dont want you to do the wrong moves too yknow.

I would like to know if there’s any scientific evidence supporting that. In any case these parasites also appear in the wild and I feel like you always risk getting them again sooner or later. The second time may be worse only because your may be more stocked with fish in that moment.

What kind of supplements are you using for vitamins? Since you’re also in NL.

I’m in the US right now and I’m going to bring back copper power with me just in case for future use.