What should I do! HELP!

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I have recently acquired a new 150 gallon DT with a 50-gallon sump. I got all the rock, sand and everything else form the same person and kept everything together. It has been up for 1 week now, and I just noticed Ich on my 7" blue tang. I am feeding them normally, I did add a 3" lawnmower blenny who has been in my 14-gallon nano and had no signs of ich. I have a 20-gallon qt tank setup, I just don't know if I should treat with copper, or should I just leave him with my other fish in my DT.
Stocking:
Blue Tang
Yellow Tang
Lawnmower Blenny
2 random Wrasses
Pufferfish
Scatfish
 

DLHDesign

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Sadly, it's best to assume that all your fish (including the blenny) have ich at this point - whether they are showing signs or not. Can't speak to your 14g nano, but it's likely that the 150 came to you with ich in it (on the fish, etc.) and the stress of moving has caused it to overtake the ability of the fishes to fight it off (for the blue tang, at least).

Do you have corals in the new 150g as well, or just what you've mentioned?
 

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I would like to irridicate it. I have a qt tank, and my DT is a full reef

Excellent! :)

First thing you are going to need to do is catch all your fish and place them in the QT: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815/

All of your fish are good candidates for copper treatment (https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/copper-treatment.193343/), except for possibly the puffer. What kind of puffer is it?

The DT itself should be left fallow (fishless) for 76 days to starve any remaining parasites out of there. Corals/inverts remain in the DT during the fallow period.
 
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The 20gal QT tank you mentioned above may have issues housing the fish you listed for the required time. Do you have access to any larger tanks? You won't need them forever; just until the DT has remained fallow as above.
I have access to a 60 gallon acryllic tank, with no flitration. What should I do about filtration?
 
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Excellent! :)

First thing you are going to need to do is catch all your fish and place them in the QT: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815/

All of your fish are good candidates for copper treatment (https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/copper-treatment.193343/), except for possibly the puffer. What kind of puffer is it?

The DT itself should be left fallow (fishless) for 76 days to starve any remaining parasites out of there. Corals/inverts remain in the DT during the fallow period.
I already have a longhorn cowfish, and filefish in the 20-gallon qt tank. They have not been treated yet, and I don't think I will.
 
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DLHDesign

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I have access to a 60 gallon acryllic tank, with no flitration. What should I do about filtration?
A simple HOB filter should work for the time duration we're talking about in terms of mechanical filtration. If you initially fill the 60g with water from your DT, you will also carry across some of the beneficial bacteria for biological filtration. It's a good idea to suck out any uneaten food and other detritus from a QT tank with a turkey baster or the like as well. QT tanks are more work, but they are only up for a relatively short period of time - and you want to be observing them closely anyways.
 
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Should I use cuprisorb when I'm done with the copper?
 

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Note that I don't think you'll want any carbon in the QT. Sometimes the HOB filters ship with them (which is normally nice and all) but IIRC, carbon will not play nice with copper treatments. I'll leave @Humblefish to help with that aspect of the QT. ;-)
 
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What should I use? Bio-balls? Polystyrene?
 

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I have access to a 60 gallon acryllic tank, with no flitration. What should I do about filtration?

A large HOB filter (Aquaclear, Bio-wheel) will suffice. I would also invest in some bacteria in a bottle to help speed up the cycle: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ammonia-control-in-a-hospital-tank.296119/

The puffer is a Valentini/toby mix

This is going to be dicey. Some of the "tougher" puffers (e.g. Porcupine, Dog Face) seem to be able to tolerate copper for 30 days, but I'm not so sure about yours.

I personally use CP on all puffers nowadays and it works great: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/chloroquine-phosphate.192309/

However, tank transfer method or hyposalinity might be more practical solutions.
 
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I have tried hypo before, it doesn't work as well as I thought, and half of my fish died. I would rather be overly aggressive than not enough.
 
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The puffer is also older and his teeth are too big because the last owner didn't feed him snails. I was already going to use clove oil on him, now i will just do it sooner
 

Humblefish

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The puffer is also older and his teeth are too big because the last owner didn't feed him snails. I was already going to use clove oil on him, now i will just do it sooner

If he's savable, please don't euthanize him. Believe it or not, you can trim his overgrown teeth using a Dremel tool.
 
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If he's savable, please don't euthanize him. Believe it or not, you can trim his overgrown teeth using a Dremel tool.
That's awesome! He is so friendly and i have been looking at ways to shave his teeth down, I tried a file and it didn't work so I didn't think anything would work.
 

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