My lights turn on in about an hour. I send you pics. And yes, it's an eyesore! An ugly aqueon pump in the display and the UV screwed to the wall.
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My lights turn on in about an hour. I send you pics. And yes, it's an eyesore! An ugly aqueon pump in the display and the UV screwed to the wall.
I had my UV hooked up to my return line. however I have a Vectra S1 for a return and it is set at it's lowest setting and that seemed to work for me. Like I said before; my dinos where gone in a matter of days. I'm also not sure if this had a factor to it as well but I'm running a skimmer that is over sized for my tank (30 gallon system). Once the dinos where gone I took the UV off line.Well in full disclosure, I don't think I will be doing that. The intake of a pump is no different than the water going into an overflow. They will end up in the sump whether they prefer that environment or not. At least that's what seems logical to me.
Thank you for the info.
Can you elaborate on "running UV slow"? A GPH rate?
How do you gauge bulb replacement for once a year? If used 24hr a day, replace before a year? If used 12hr a day? 6hr? Once a week?
I will say my dinos have been surviving for quite some time under the above guidance short of nutrient levels. Perhaps thats all it takes to let them remain but running UV for a year, even with a new bulb hasn't seemed to help, at least not enough.
I appreciate the information. Forgive my request for details. Just trying to understand guidance.
This is exactly what I and a lot of others on this thread do run it to and from the display with a pump in the display. Eventually when you've knocked them back the hope is you can move it back to the sump.Wait, I just read this again. Are you saying put a pump in your DT to install a UV sterilizer? I've never heard of such a thing. I would imagine that would be a big eyesore. I would love to see tanks that actually do this.
Also, in the case of a blackout, if they don't move into dark places, how would you get them out of anywhere? If they are free swimming, I would think if a tnak had sufficient flow, they would be carried into the overflow (the highest lit area of the system, the DT water surface) and thus running a UV off your return would actually have more of a chance to effect them than running a pump in your DT.
Well in full disclosure, I don't think I will be doing that. The intake of a pump is no different than the water going into an overflow. They will end up in the sump whether they prefer that environment or not. At least that's what seems logical to me.
This is exactly what I and a lot of others on this thread do run it to and from the display with a pump in the display. Eventually when you've knocked them back the hope is you can move it back to the sump.
The general recommendation is "as slow as the manufacturer lists as minimum flow rate". You just don't want the bulb to overheat.
As to nutrients, if I let my PO4 get below ~.04 my ostreopsis will try to make a comeback. I am not sure about the nitrate lower threshold.
All of this is anecdotal for sure. I'm not sure of the mechanism but I would wonder if dinos have some partial attachment to surfaces while they are "in the water column" that keeps them from leaving the display quickly. Or if they bounce around from attachment to attachment (basically sticking on surfaces between bouncing around) which makes it take a lot longer to enter the sump. These are all guesses but they don't seem to act like plankton that completely moves with the water. I'm sure if you did a long enough blackout they would all go through the sump but with our photoperiods your mileage will vary.I certainly am not saying that is wrong, I just would want someone to explain how a pump in the tank is any different than using the tank overflow as an intake. Both draw in tank water. Only thing I can think of is if someone were to suggest dinos can actively swim faster than an overflow can drain at the weir (which, all due respect, makes no sense). Either way, both running the pump in tank or using your return pump, both are pulling water in directly from the DT.
Also as of note, this is not in line with what professionals and companies such as Dr. Tim's or Elegant Corals have recommended either. But I am all ears if someone can explain the thinking as to why a pump must be in the tank.
All of this is anecdotal for sure. I'm not sure of the mechanism but I would wonder if dinos have some partial attachment to surfaces while they are "in the water column" that keeps them from leaving the display quickly. Or if they bounce around from attachment to attachment (basically sticking on surfaces between bouncing around) which makes it take a lot longer to enter the sump. These are all guesses but they don't seem to act like plankton that completely moves with the water. I'm sure if you did a long enough blackout they would all go through the sump but with our photoperiods your mileage will vary.
The taxonomy of the group [dinoflagellates] is contentious. Historically, botanists have placed them in the algal division Pyrrophyta or Pyrrophycophyta, and zoologists have claimed them as members of the protozoan order Dinoflagellida. Although they are often considered to be algae in the division Dinoflagellata, this placement is controversial because these organisms have unique nuclei and significantly larger genomes than other eukaryotic algae.
So I would dig out the UV and slap it on the affected tank, and dose PO4 and NO3 to the system. Never did the dinos bloom in the old tank, the old sump, nor the new sump.
I think the theory is: (full disclosure I am often wrong) most people have socks that catch them on some level, skimmers that most likely take some away, And other forms of disposable filtration in the sump. With all of that the remaining Dino’s that make it to the UV are less than if treated directly in the tank. more bang for the buck kinda thing and diminishing them more than they reproduce.Noted but respectfully, your in tank pump has an intake. A cross section area in which it intakes water. The overflow likewise has a similar cross section area intake. Both draw water in from the DT. My contention is there is no difference between running a pump in tank or in sump and both are effectively the same thing.
I think the theory is: (full disclosure I am often wrong) most people have socks that catch them on some level, skimmers that most likely take some away, And other forms of disposable filtration in the sump. With all of that the remaining Dino’s that make it to the UV are less than if treated directly in the tank. more bang for the buck kinda thing and diminishing them more than they reproduce.
I understand that it seems logical that all of our water goes through the sump carrying all waste at some point but does is it really? I don’t know the answer but sincerely doubt it. I would think vacuuming our tanks would be unneeded if all water and all particles made it though the filtration outside the display.
again this may be completely wrong.
I get the same thing once my PO4 vets below 0.04 aswell, perhaps thats due to the hanna error window of 0.05+/-.I will share this anecdote. Over the past year or so, I have been expanding my basement frag system by adding new tanks. Each time I added a tank to the system, it would break out in dinos. (Sterile surfaces, diluted nutrients, bang!)
So I would dig out the UV and slap it on the affected tank, and dose PO4 and NO3 to the system. Never did the dinos bloom in the old tank, the old sump, nor the new sump.
Think of dinos as having ant like behavior versus plankton like behavior.
Yeah in my frag system the threshold for a dino bloom is even higher like .06 or so. I keep my PO4 and NO2 dosers at the ready all the time. My display has to get much closer to zero before it shows any dinos.I get the same thing once my PO4 vets below 0.04 aswell, perhaps thats due to the hanna error window of 0.05+/-.
I get the same thing once my PO4 vets below 0.04 aswell, perhaps thats due to the hanna error window of 0.05+/-.
Yeah in my frag system the threshold for a dino bloom is even higher like .06 or so. I keep my PO4 and NO2 dosers at the ready all the time. My display has to get much closer to zero before it shows any dinos.
I think thus far with my venture into this hobby I have under appreciated the NO3 and PO4 scrutiny required. I feel like so much attention is placed on ALK and CAL along with other things, perhaps these get overlooked. Also, perhaps hobbyist test kits are just not precise enough to be able to monitor it quantitatively with any real precision. That said, should this prove to be my big underlying issue, its a real shame it doesn't get more focus. But perhaps maintaining these levels in an aquarium just doesn't sell products like flow and lighting, lol. That and maybe with "yesterday's reefing" things weren't as clean and keeping NO3 and PO4 levels was a given.