And yes, I would run it 24 h/day and definitely at night. There in the water column at night.
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What
How old is the bulb? Also try running UV 24/7
I said what I did to get rid of this, also ostreopsis. And left you an interesting site (link).
If you speak Portuguese, let me know, I know a really good link.
And yes, I would run it 24 h/day and definitely at night. There in the water column at night.
What brand of UV are you using, what wattage, and how big is your tank again? You want about 1w per 3 gallons. I will say my ostreopsis needed to be coached into the water column. Also running the UV to and from the display and not in the sump has been more effective for many.Well I got the little microscope and pulled some off a powerhead. Already made an ID thread and it seems/looks like they are the common "ostreopsis".
I have started reading the Sticky Dino Thread but being almost 500 pages, does anyone know if the info is in there to treat specific dinos or if there is another thread for that? I was surprised to see in that thread OP there doesn't appear to be direct links to images of each type. Idk if that is to assume recommendations aren't included as well either but I will be reading through it.
Here's the image of the dinos:
What brand of UV are you using, what wattage, and how big is your tank again? You want about 1w per 3 gallons. I will say my ostreopsis needed to be coached into the water column. Also running the UV to and from the display and not in the sump has been more effective for many.
Also many report keeping elevated NO3/PO4 such as above 10ppm NO3 and above .08 PO4. This also falls in line with what a lot of others have recommended for your situation.
I have to say I had a headache reading this topic. See you going back and forth with light, flow, etc, meanwhile, there was a clear reason why your sps were dying.
So, as I said before, first thing is to treat dinos. And it's not easy, sorry, it's one of the worse plages in a reef tank. But definitely doable!
This is what I read and did:
3 days blackout (I did 4). This will knock the dinos. Alone won't solve it, but helps a lot so the other measures can be effective.
UV sterilizer 4x recommendation for your tank, I had a 36 watts UV on a 70 gallons tank. The wattage and the flow are the main factor here. Slow flow, sorry I don't have a number on flow.
Make sure phosphates are not zero, better between 0.05 and 0.1 ppm.
And Nitrates around 2 to 10 ppm.
Stirrer the substrate. Some will take it out. SOme people will replace it.
Dose bacteria to eat the dinos. Check the link.
High pH and microbubbles may help.
I cleaned the skimmer cup, the socks and the filter floss twice a day.
Dr. Tim's Treatment Bundles
Bulk Reef Supply - Saltwater Aquarium Supplies for Reef Tankswww.bulkreefsupply.com
May I know what microscope did you get? Great image!Well I got the little microscope and pulled some off a powerhead. Already made an ID thread and it seems/looks like they are the common "ostreopsis".
I have started reading the Sticky Dino Thread but being almost 500 pages, does anyone know if the info is in there to treat specific dinos or if there is another thread for that? I was surprised to see in that thread OP there doesn't appear to be direct links to images of each type. Idk if that is to assume recommendations aren't included as well either but I will be reading through it.
Here's the image of the dinos:
May I know what microscope did you get? Great image!
I used both products, Dr tims waste away and vibrant. I can't say much other than what they claim, and that my sps were hit hard when I dosed those products. That's why I said I would take the frags out of the tank. And in your case, it's easy, they're on a frag rack. I wouldn't risk them.
Ostreopsis are the easiest dinos to control.
- Sustained levels of PO4 and NO3 >=.1 and 10 respectively
- UV run to/from DISPLAY not the sump. Dinos are active swimmers. They won't (in any number) go to your sump unless it is very well lit and has good flow. Run the UV SLOW. Replace a bulb before 12 months.
- Not all dinos are toxic but ostreos are. Run GAC. Also helps with the smell of ostreos.
- No aminos. AcroPower should be renamed DinoPower.
Didn't know about acropower not being recommended, thanks, good to know. I just treated dinos, same thing, ostreopsis. I'm dosing acropower so that's a risk, but at the same time as they didn't come back, that's a good sign. I hope, lol.Ostreopsis are the easiest dinos to control.
- Sustained levels of PO4 and NO3 >=.1 and 10 respectively
- UV run to/from DISPLAY not the sump. Dinos are active swimmers. They won't (in any number) go to your sump unless it is very well lit and has good flow. Run the UV SLOW. Replace a bulb before 12 months.
- Not all dinos are toxic but ostreos are. Run GAC. Also helps with the smell of ostreos.
- No aminos. AcroPower should be renamed DinoPower.
- UV run to/from DISPLAY not the sump. Dinos are active swimmers. They won't (in any number) go to your sump unless it is very well lit and has good flow. Run the UV SLOW. Replace a bulb before 12 months.
Didn't know about acropower not being recommended, thanks, good to know. I just treated dinos, same thing, ostreopsis. I'm dosing acropower so that's a risk, but at the same time as they didn't come back, that's a good sign. I hope, lol.
dang, I forget to say that about the UV, but I'm pretty sure someone else did it. It has to be connected directly to the display, not in the sump!
So, did you start the treatment?