Watch me kill SPS...

[wilsonline]

And yes, I would run it 24 h/day and definitely at night. There in the water column at night.

 

[Skep18]

What

I run a UV on my tank every night for a little over a year maybe.

How old is the bulb? Also try running UV 24/7

A little over a year. The bulb should not be an issue, especially as I do not run it 24hr a day.

 

[Skep18]

I said what I did to get rid of this, also ostreopsis. And left you an interesting site (link).
If you speak Portuguese, let me know, I know a really good link.

I'll check it out. Unfortunately I do not speak Portuguese.

And yes, I would run it 24 h/day and definitely at night. There in the water column at night.

I will start doing this.

 

[wilsonline]

 

[drawman]

Well I got the little microscope and pulled some off a powerhead. Already made an ID thread and it seems/looks like they are the common "ostreopsis".

I have started reading the Sticky Dino Thread but being almost 500 pages, does anyone know if the info is in there to treat specific dinos or if there is another thread for that? I was surprised to see in that thread OP there doesn't appear to be direct links to images of each type. Idk if that is to assume recommendations aren't included as well either but I will be reading through it.

Here's the image of the dinos:

View attachment 1562895

What brand of UV are you using, what wattage, and how big is your tank again? You want about 1w per 3 gallons. I will say my ostreopsis needed to be coached into the water column. Also running the UV to and from the display and not in the sump has been more effective for many.

Also many report keeping elevated NO3/PO4 such as above 10ppm NO3 and above .08 PO4. This also falls in line with what a lot of others have recommended for your situation.

 

[Skep18]

What brand of UV are you using, what wattage, and how big is your tank again? You want about 1w per 3 gallons. I will say my ostreopsis needed to be coached into the water column. Also running the UV to and from the display and not in the sump has been more effective for many.

Also many report keeping elevated NO3/PO4 such as above 10ppm NO3 and above .08 PO4. This also falls in line with what a lot of others have recommended for your situation.

I have a Pentair unit based on manufacturer sizing recommendations. I established the flow rate based on Pentair recommendations for the higher end of their "Protozoa Bacteria Water Flow Rate". It has always returned to my DT.

I will continue to dose and monitor my NO3 and PO4.

Thanks!

 

[Skep18]

There seem to be a handful of people that say, "No, don't run carbon, it strips your water" versus the same number of people who say, "Yes, run carbon, its OK." I am now hearing, specific to dinos during treatment, people are saying you MUST run carbon to clean out the contaminants/toxins. While I am not sure if anyone in either camp has any real academic evidence outside of personal experiences or assumptions, I have turned my carbon back on. I am noting this to be in full disclosure. If anyone reading this has reason (with supporting links would be great) as to why this would be a bad move, I would be very interested in reading it.

Unfortunately, I think I am again running into some of the topics that R2R can't seem to get a consensus on (something like LED conversations) which just makes it difficult to decide what one should be doing.

 

[wilsonline]

I have to say I had a headache reading this topic. See you going back and forth with light, flow, etc, meanwhile, there was a clear reason why your sps were dying.
So, as I said before, first thing is to treat dinos. And it's not easy, sorry, it's one of the worse plages in a reef tank. But definitely doable!
This is what I read and did:
3 days blackout (I did 4). This will knock the dinos. Alone won't solve it, but helps a lot so the other measures can be effective.
UV sterilizer 4x recommendation for your tank, I had a 36 watts UV on a 70 gallons tank. The wattage and the flow are the main factor here. Slow flow, sorry I don't have a number on flow.
Make sure phosphates are not zero, better between 0.05 and 0.1 ppm.
And Nitrates around 2 to 10 ppm.
Stirrer the substrate. Some will take it out. SOme people will replace it.
Dose bacteria to eat the dinos. Check the link.
High pH and microbubbles may help.
I cleaned the skimmer cup, the socks and the filter floss twice a day.

Dr. Tim's Treatment Bundles

Bulk Reef Supply - Saltwater Aquarium Supplies for Reef Tanks

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[Skep18]

I have to say I had a headache reading this topic. See you going back and forth with light, flow, etc, meanwhile, there was a clear reason why your sps were dying.
So, as I said before, first thing is to treat dinos. And it's not easy, sorry, it's one of the worse plages in a reef tank. But definitely doable!
This is what I read and did:
3 days blackout (I did 4). This will knock the dinos. Alone won't solve it, but helps a lot so the other measures can be effective.
UV sterilizer 4x recommendation for your tank, I had a 36 watts UV on a 70 gallons tank. The wattage and the flow are the main factor here. Slow flow, sorry I don't have a number on flow.
Make sure phosphates are not zero, better between 0.05 and 0.1 ppm.
And Nitrates around 2 to 10 ppm.
Stirrer the substrate. Some will take it out. SOme people will replace it.
Dose bacteria to eat the dinos. Check the link.
High pH and microbubbles may help.
I cleaned the skimmer cup, the socks and the filter floss twice a day.

Dr. Tim's Treatment Bundles

Bulk Reef Supply - Saltwater Aquarium Supplies for Reef Tanks

www.bulkreefsupply.com

At this point, my thinking is like yours, the low nutrients is the primary issue which has lead to an unintended secondary issue of dinos. And with that, I hope you are right! Hopefully if I can get my NO3 and PO4 in order and get rid of these dinos, things will turn around.

I have seen that Dr. Tim's treatment. I am a bit hesitant to use his products. It seems in general his products are either praised or condemned by users. It almost feels like the iPhone conversation. His products are priced pretty high in general and make some pretty bold claims. Its hard to tell if thats accurate or exaggerated with solid brand following.

That said, specific to the products that includes, I only haven't bought it yet as the reviews on BRS are mixed. For WASTE-AWAY, 2 of 4 are 1 star reviews claiming it killed all the SPS in their tank (or if overdosed could). Not clear if that is user error or a product issue. And the RE-FRESH product advises it may kill snails in your tank. I would rather not risk my snails if I don't have to. I am already familiar with Vibrant and it's targetted at the same algae. At this time, I will continue with this. If it doesn't work, I will reevaluate.

 

[wilsonline]

Well I got the little microscope and pulled some off a powerhead. Already made an ID thread and it seems/looks like they are the common "ostreopsis".

I have started reading the Sticky Dino Thread but being almost 500 pages, does anyone know if the info is in there to treat specific dinos or if there is another thread for that? I was surprised to see in that thread OP there doesn't appear to be direct links to images of each type. Idk if that is to assume recommendations aren't included as well either but I will be reading through it.

Here's the image of the dinos:

View attachment 1562895

May I know what microscope did you get? Great image!

 

[wilsonline]

I used both products, Dr tims waste away and vibrant. I can't say much other than what they claim, and that my sps were hit hard when I dosed those products. That's why I said I would take the frags out of the tank. And in your case, it's easy, they're on a frag rack. I wouldn't risk them.

 

[Skep18]

May I know what microscope did you get? Great image!

In opening it, I was a little hesistant as it doesn't scream high quality. But the price point didn't suggest as much and for the price, it certainly did make some acceptable images. I got a "used - like new" unit for $33 shipped.

Link to microscope on Amazon

 

[Skep18]

I used both products, Dr tims waste away and vibrant. I can't say much other than what they claim, and that my sps were hit hard when I dosed those products. That's why I said I would take the frags out of the tank. And in your case, it's easy, they're on a frag rack. I wouldn't risk them.

These frags are goners anyways at this point. I think I will get more education in letting them ride and seeing how they react to the products. lol. I will get another frag pack when I (hopefully) get through all these dinos and nutrients issues.

 

[wilsonline]

And when I say blackout I mean a total blackout. What I did was cover the 3 visible sides of the tank with paper. And the paper went like 10 inches above the edge of the tank. So everything was in the dark for 4 days.

 

[ScottB]

Ostreopsis are the easiest dinos to control.

- Sustained levels of PO4 and NO3 >=.1 and 10 respectively
- UV run to/from DISPLAY not the sump. Dinos are active swimmers. They won't (in any number) go to your sump unless it is very well lit and has good flow. Run the UV SLOW. Replace a bulb before 12 months.
- Not all dinos are toxic but ostreos are. Run GAC. Also helps with the smell of ostreos.
- No aminos. AcroPower should be renamed DinoPower.

 

[Skep18]

Ostreopsis are the easiest dinos to control.

- Sustained levels of PO4 and NO3 >=.1 and 10 respectively
- UV run to/from DISPLAY not the sump. Dinos are active swimmers. They won't (in any number) go to your sump unless it is very well lit and has good flow. Run the UV SLOW. Replace a bulb before 12 months.
- Not all dinos are toxic but ostreos are. Run GAC. Also helps with the smell of ostreos.
- No aminos. AcroPower should be renamed DinoPower.

Thank you for the info.

Can you elaborate on "running UV slow"? A GPH rate?

How do you gauge bulb replacement for once a year? If used 24hr a day, replace before a year? If used 12hr a day? 6hr? Once a week?

I will say my dinos have been surviving for quite some time under the above guidance short of nutrient levels. Perhaps thats all it takes to let them remain but running UV for a year, even with a new bulb hasn't seemed to help, at least not enough.

I appreciate the information. Forgive my request for details. Just trying to understand guidance.

 

[wilsonline]

Ostreopsis are the easiest dinos to control.

- Sustained levels of PO4 and NO3 >=.1 and 10 respectively
- UV run to/from DISPLAY not the sump. Dinos are active swimmers. They won't (in any number) go to your sump unless it is very well lit and has good flow. Run the UV SLOW. Replace a bulb before 12 months.
- Not all dinos are toxic but ostreos are. Run GAC. Also helps with the smell of ostreos.
- No aminos. AcroPower should be renamed DinoPower.

Didn't know about acropower not being recommended, thanks, good to know. I just treated dinos, same thing, ostreopsis. I'm dosing acropower so that's a risk, but at the same time as they didn't come back, that's a good sign. I hope, lol.
dang, I forget to say that about the UV, but I'm pretty sure someone else did it. It has to be connected directly to the display, not in the sump!
So, did you start the treatment?

 

[Skep18]

In checking the Pentair manufacturer instructions, it appears (like most things) replacement recommendations are based on utilization. In Pentair's case, "UV lamps need to be replaced after 13 months (9,000 hours.) of continual use." (pg. 26, item 14-2)

https://media.cdn.bulkreefsupply.com/media/wysiwyg/PDFs/SMARTUV_Instructions_07.pdf

FWIW, 9,000hr divided by 14hr/day yields rougly 640 days of use before replacement.

 

[Skep18]

- UV run to/from DISPLAY not the sump. Dinos are active swimmers. They won't (in any number) go to your sump unless it is very well lit and has good flow. Run the UV SLOW. Replace a bulb before 12 months.

Wait, I just read this again. Are you saying put a pump in your DT to install a UV sterilizer? I've never heard of such a thing. I would imagine that would be a big eyesore. I would love to see tanks that actually do this.

Also, in the case of a blackout, if they don't move into dark places, how would you get them out of anywhere? If they are free swimming, I would think if a tnak had sufficient flow, they would be carried into the overflow (the highest lit area of the system, the DT water surface) and thus running a UV off your return would actually have more of a chance to effect them than running a pump in your DT.

 

[Skep18]

Didn't know about acropower not being recommended, thanks, good to know. I just treated dinos, same thing, ostreopsis. I'm dosing acropower so that's a risk, but at the same time as they didn't come back, that's a good sign. I hope, lol.
dang, I forget to say that about the UV, but I'm pretty sure someone else did it. It has to be connected directly to the display, not in the sump!
So, did you start the treatment?

I guess I have? lol. I say it like that as I have been doing all of these recommendations except a couple for a long time now. I have been dosing N and P for a couple weeks at this point. I just started lights out yesterday. I have changed my UV to run 24/7 as of yesterday. I started dosing nitrifying bacteria as of yesterday. Otherwise, I have been dosing Vibrant, running GAC, not using AcroPower (except maybe once), etc for almost a year.

I'll give the lights out a few days and see how it goes. I expect it will short term handle them and hopefully my increased N and P along with Vibrant/BioSpira/MicroBacter7 will keep them at bay.