Threaded steel pipe stand

[The Coug]

I’m looking for advise on a stand for my 200 gallon (60 x 30) peninsula tank build. I’m looking for a decorative open stand. All plumbing, sump, reactors, etc will be located through the wall in the garage. Only the tank will sitting on the stand, nothing planned for underneath.

My wife prefers vintage/industrial metal looks and I’m having a tough time finding someone who can make me something of an appropriate look and size.

Does anyone know it threaded steel pipe on flanges is strong enough? I would likely aim for 1.25” pipe with 6 legs. The attached picture is a example table we saw but wasn’t the right dimensions. I would finish it for salt exposure (patina powder coating) and build a butcher block wooden top for the tank to sit on (plus yoga mat for leveling/padding).

I haven’t seen stands like this in my internet searches so I’m wondering if I’m missing something obvious. I was also considering getting the threads welded after I get it all adjusted if that would improve strength.

Any advise is appreciated.

 

[Bnutz]

Not sure, but steel pipe is pretty mild steel. It bends pretty easy I would want a center brace. Most of the weight will be on the vertical pipes which should help.

 

[Snoopy 67]

The top will rest on the 4 corners only due to the extra height of the fittings.
How about something like 80/20?

 

[Scubatricky]

I would go with slightly larger diameter pipe and have the joints welded. Steel pipe is incredibly strong. Look at scaffolding and the weight it supports above it. In the UK we use 1" box section tube for building stands and it's perfectly fine.

With your size tank I'd go slightly larger.

 

[Scubatricky]

The top will rest on the 4 corners only due to the extra height of the fittings.
How about something like 80/20?

If it's going to be supporting that weight, get the joints welded, and then get steel Packers welded along the top rails so that the corners are not the only support points.

As it's mild steel, you can do the job yourself with a mig welder, or pay your local welder to do the job quickly and easily.

 

[Greg P]

I'd research the deflection of pipe over square tubing

 

[Scubatricky]

I'd research the deflection of pipe over square tubing

Agreed. There's a reason that scaffolding is made from tubular steel and not square section.

What you don't need is any lateral movement!

 

[uhgster1]

I don’t think that steel pipe is a wise choice for to hold a saltwater vessel. I’ve seen posts from people with kooky metal problems in their water from just rogue screws. I’m pretty sure that you will have a 100% chance of rust issues just from overspray, drops from moving frags, etc..

 

[Scubatricky]

I don’t think that steel pipe is a wise choice for to hold a saltwater vessel. I’ve seen posts from people with kooky metal problems in their water from just rogue screws. I’m pretty sure that you will have a 100% chance of rust issues just from overspray, drops from moving frags, etc..

Powder coat will solve that issue. Steel car / trick wheels are generally powder coated to resist road salt and weather.

The steel provides the strength, the coating provides the longevity.

 

[Greg P]

I'm sure it's possible to use pipe, you just need to look into what wall thickness and O.D. are required to keep the horizontal lengths from sagging/deflecting.

 

[The Coug]

I was planning routering out recessed cavities in the butcher board top for the elbows and Tees so that the bulk of the board rests on the length of the pipe.

 

[The Coug]

I haven’t heard of Packers steel, is this something that would raise up the top of the pipes to become flush with the joints?

 

[The Coug]

I'm sure it's possible to use pipe, you just need to look into what wall thickness and O.D. are required to keep the horizontal lengths from sagging/deflecting.

This seems like sound advise. I really prefer the looks of round legs to square tube steel. I’m not sure if the regular threaded pipe is similar to the steel thickness deflection tables I’ve seen.

 

[Greg P]

Shims may get ugly. Once you figure out what pipe will work, consider wood inserts/trim etc to fill the gap between the bottom of the board and the pipe.
Depending on the height of the gap, you may be able to have the face of some nice woodgrain showing, such as oak

 

[The Coug]

I was hoping I could shim with under the flange feet legs but that may get challenging to balance it all out. I’m going to be on a dark tile floor, hoping to be able to blend in.

 

[The Coug]

Shims may get ugly. Once you figure out what pipe will work, consider wood inserts/trim etc to fill the gap between the bottom of the board and the pipe.
Depending on the height of the gap, you may be able to have the face of some nice woodgrain showing, such as oak

This is a great idea if I can find something that can sit flush enough on the pipe.

 

[Greg P]

The gap will probably be so small that you'll need to use wood molding and won't see any woodgrain
Maybe at this point painting the wood 'inserts' to match the pipe would help with esthetics

 

[X-37B]

My wife is an artist/welder and wanted something similar.
We went with 2" square and 2"x3"
For the top.
Painted with por15.
It is completly open with a piece of sealed plywood on the top and very stable.
She did not think the round pipe was a smart setup for complete stability as she was condidering it.
Here are some pics.

 

[Greg P]

Another option would be to build the stand with pipe, then top it on the pipe connectors with a square tubing base and get creative painting the face of the sq stuff to look like wood

 

[The Coug]

My wife is an artist/welder and wanted something similar.
We went with 2" square and 2"x3"
For the top.
Painted with por15.
It is completly open with a piece of sealed plywood on the top and very stable.
She did not think the round pipe was a smart setup for complete stability as she was condidering it.
Here are some pics.

The stability does seem to be a consistent concern mentioned. Yours looks very nice!