Thoughts on hardware store RO "kitchen systems" for saltware use?

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I am on well water with low mineral content. I am about 200 miles away from any store were I could get saltwater from a reputable store. This means I need to make my own saltwater.

I have been looking at Home Depot and Lowes, and similar systems online, for a good multi-stage water filter systems with a small tank and Reverse Osmosis.

Will the filtered and RO water from one of these household "kitchen" systems be a good source for me to make my saltwater?
 
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I am on well water with low mineral content. I am about 200 miles away from any store were I could get saltwater from a reputable store. This means I need to make my own saltwater.

I have been looking at Home Depot and Lowes, and similar systems online, for a good multi-stage water filter systems with a small tank and Reverse Osmosis.

Will the filtered and RO water from one of these household "kitchen" systems be a good source for me to make my saltwater?
Sure, just add on some DI canisters.
 
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AQUATICLIFE Twist-in 4-Stage Reverse Osmosis Water Filtration Deionization System, RO/DI Filter Unit 75 GPD

From Amazon, this is one I considered but, I was also wondering about the water production without a booster pump and small tank for water storage.
 

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AQUATICLIFE Twist-in 4-Stage Reverse Osmosis Water Filtration Deionization System, RO/DI Filter Unit 75 GPD

From Amazon, this is one I considered but, I was also wondering about the water production without a booster pump and small tank for water storage.
As long as you're pushing around 40-50 psi you're fine, but if not the RO Buddy booster can make sure you maintain enough pressure at the membrane.
 
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I’m also on well water and bought my RO unit from Lowe’s (hardware store) probably 20 years ago. It’s a kitchen model and comes in handy having the RO faucet at the sink for coffee, tea etc.
I debated getting a booster pump some years ago because the RO unit came with a 25 gallon per day membrane and it was frustrating having to wait.
I ended up just swapping out the 25 GPD membrane for a 75 GPD membrane and I’ve had plenty of water since then.
What I found out (if I remember correctly) the RO unit works at peak efficiency at higher PSI and warmer water going into it. I was also told that since my well water was around 300 ppm (maybe grains per gallon?) to get a water softener to soften the water first because the sodium is easier on the RO membrane than calcium.
 
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I’m also on well water and bought my RO unit from Lowe’s (hardware store) probably 20 years ago. It’s a kitchen model and comes in handy having the RO faucet at the sink for coffee, tea etc.
I debated getting a booster pump some years ago because the RO unit came with a 25 gallon per day membrane and it was frustrating having to wait.
I ended up just swapping out the 25 GPD membrane for a 75 GPD membrane and I’ve had plenty of water since then.
What I found out (if I remember correctly) the RO unit works at peak efficiency at higher PSI and warmer water going into it. I was also told that since my well water was around 300 ppm (maybe grains per gallon?) to get a water softener to soften the water first because the sodium is easier on the RO membrane than calcium.
Always wondered if a softener would aid or harm the RODI... I have mine installed after the softener so good to hear it helps it out.
 
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Yes you can, I have been using one for the last two years and works great! I got this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Express...th-Faucet-and-Tank-100-GPD-ROALK10D/307338928

Now you have to make a bypass after the membrane output and add there any DI cartridge you like. Even add one that you can replace the resin yourself and save even more. So I have a bypass with a simple manual valve, I move the valve position to get water for the tank and back to make drinkable water. Also get the two year replacement filters package, you will not have to worry about filters for a while and is a lot cheaper than the hobby systems.

Oh, and I do ICP test (ATI) constantly which by the way they test the RO water quality, is always on point all readings at zero.
 

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If the OP has low mineral content in his water can he just get the DI? I don’t use DI so I have no idea if it would be cheaper/easier for them.
My well water is 300ppm TDS and after RO it gets down to 5-10 PPM.
 
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After more research, adding the DI resin to the RO systems is pretty cheap. With the low mineral count in my well water, the DI resin should last a really long time too but, it looks like many of the replacement cartridges right now are <$20 so, not that expensive either.

The 75GPD system is $120, 100GPD is ~$145, and the 200GPD system is $200 from Aquaticlife and includes the DI cartridge so, pretty price attractive though, none of these include a water tank for household usage for tea, coffee, etc. The water pressure booster is $120 as well.

I should probably hit up HomeDepot and Lowes and see what their similar systems run.
 

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Another tidbit….the RO unit will make water faster if there’s no back pressure. ie trying to fill the holding tank.
If the RO unit is filling the tank it has to work against the pressure inside the tank which slows production.
What I normally do on my “kitchen” model is empty the 2 gallons or so from the tank into one of my 5 gallon jugs and then, leaving the RO faucet open, I put a hose from the RO faucet on my sink to the jug that is setting on the floor.
I fill as many jugs as I need doing it this way. Just have to be careful and not forget that I’m filling up jugs or I have water on the floor.
 
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