Thoughts on getting rid of cyano

unclepregs

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Need help getting rid of a cyano problem I have had for a probably a couple months. Thought regular maintenance and time it would go away on its own. I blow off the rocks and stir up the sand bed. I try to siphon the sand but it seems as if the algae is too “heavy” to really siphon. So frustrated as I watch it just sit in the siphon tube.

Parameters

Alk 7.5
Calc 400
Mag 1350
Phos .03
Nitrate just got my first reading above 0 in over 5 to 6 weeks and it was 1.4

Any ideas on what to do about cleaning this up. I’ve had gha and cleaned it up with a couple emeralds. This is my first outbreak and tank is about 9 months old.

Thought about neonitro but read that it lowers phosphates but I don’t wanna bottom them out and don’t have neophos because I didn’t know I should have both bottles, so haven’t used it yet. Figured I’m trying to get nitrates up would help clean it up.

Maybe a 2nd wave maker to give more flow in the tank too? Thought one Nero 3 in a 40L nuvo aio would be enough.

Thoughts?

IMG_2791.jpeg IMG_2792.jpeg IMG_2787.jpeg IMG_2788.jpeg
 
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unclepregs

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I’ll check it out. Really didn’t want to use chemi clean but I might have to at this point.
 

betareef

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Alk 7.5
Calc 400
Mag 1350
Phos .03
Nitrate just got my first reading above 0 in over 5 to 6 weeks and it was 1.4

Any ideas on what to do about cleaning this up. I’ve had gha and cleaned it up with a couple emeralds. This is my first outbreak and tank is about 9 months old.

My tank is nearly 6 months old and I too saw my first nitrate reading above zero, just the other day. I am fighting cyano and algae, but for the last week, I have been thinking it may have turned the corner and I am winning.

I use a "turkey baster" style device to blast off the loose stuff and suck in the loose stuff for removal. The stuff on the sand is mixed with algae and takes some of the top layer of sand with it when I lift it.

CUC is many snails of different types and eating habits, including a stromb, and a bottom dwelling goby.
 

Biokabe

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I’ll check it out. Really didn’t want to use chemi clean but I might have to at this point.
Chemiclean isn't bad to use. I've used it multiple times without incident.

Having said that - how big is your tank? What is in your CUC?

When I've had cyano problems, I've always had an inadequate CUC. Once I addressed the CUC, the cyano took care of itself.

Manual removal is a losing battle. Chemiclean works, but is a band-aid - if you have a cyano problem before Chemiclean, you'll have a cyano problem a few months after Chemiclean unless you make changes to your tank.

Edited: Missed that you did have your tank size, 40L.

So the big question is, what is in your CUC? How many snails, how many (if any) hermits and other crabs? Conches?
 
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unclepregs

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My tank is nearly 6 months old and I too saw my first nitrate reading above zero, just the other day. I am fighting cyano and algae, but for the last week, I have been thinking it may have turned the corner and I am winning.

I use a "turkey baster" style device to blast off the loose stuff and suck in the loose stuff for removal. The stuff on the sand is mixed with algae and takes some of the top layer of sand with it when I lift it.

CUC is many snails of different types and eating habits, including a stromb, and a bottom dwelling goby.
I actually had nitrates chilling around 10-12 the entire time until it started dwindling to 0. I use a turkey baster just about every day and try and let it go back into my filters.

It seems when I siphon the algae just sits in the tube and never goes up and into my bucket.

I have an assortment of snails(>15) ranging from nassarius trochus astrea 2 emeralds and tiger sand conch.
 
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unclepregs

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Chemiclean isn't bad to use. I've used it multiple times without incident.

Having said that - how big is your tank? What is in your CUC?

When I've had cyano problems, I've always had an inadequate CUC. Once I addressed the CUC, the cyano took care of itself.

Manual removal is a losing battle. Chemiclean works, but is a band-aid - if you have a cyano problem before Chemiclean, you'll have a cyano problem a few months after Chemiclean unless you make changes to your tank.

Edited: Missed that you did have your tank size, 40L.

So the big question is, what is in your CUC? How many snails, how many (if any) hermits and other crabs? Conches?
Got probably more than 15 snails. Big and small nassarius, trochus, astrea and maybe one more kind I can’t think of right now. 2 emerald crabs and a tiger sand conch.
 

tobster

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My tank just went through cyano. Had it for about 3 months. It was on sand and rock.
I increased the flow with another wave maker and it was gone in a week.
Can’t say for sure if that’s what did it or if the tank just stabilized.
I tried water changes and siphoned every week or more with no luck.

I put a pincushion urchin in when cyano first started and he ate it like crazy.
Crabs and snails wouldn’t touch it.
It will eventually go away. Good luck!
 
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unclepregs

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My tank just went through cyano. Had it for about 3 months. It was on sand and rock.
I increased the flow with another wave maker and it was gone in a week.
Can’t say for sure if that’s what did it or if the tank just stabilized.
I tried water changes and siphoned every week or more with no luck.

I put a pincushion urchin in when cyano first started and he ate it like crazy.
Crabs and snails wouldn’t touch it.
It will eventually go away. Good luck!
Very interesting. I am investing in a 2nd powerhead and a skimmer. Thought the low tech reef tank would be nice but it might need a little extra equipment.
 

moosevandyke

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I had cyan for months tried every natural way just couldn't break the cycle.. lots of sps and lps... dosed once cyan has been completely gone for 4 months. Dosed beneficial bacteria post treatment.

Really had zero issues with coral etc.
 
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unclepregs

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I had cyan for months tried every natural way just couldn't break the cycle.. lots of sps and lps... dosed once cyan has been completely gone for 4 months. Dosed beneficial bacteria post treatment.

Really had zero issues with coral etc.
Dosed what?
 

vetteguy53081

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Need help getting rid of a cyano problem I have had for a probably a couple months. Thought regular maintenance and time it would go away on its own. I blow off the rocks and stir up the sand bed. I try to siphon the sand but it seems as if the algae is too “heavy” to really siphon. So frustrated as I watch it just sit in the siphon tube.

Parameters

Alk 7.5
Calc 400
Mag 1350
Phos .03
Nitrate just got my first reading above 0 in over 5 to 6 weeks and it was 1.4

Any ideas on what to do about cleaning this up. I’ve had gha and cleaned it up with a couple emeralds. This is my first outbreak and tank is about 9 months old.

Thought about neonitro but read that it lowers phosphates but I don’t wanna bottom them out and don’t have neophos because I didn’t know I should have both bottles, so haven’t used it yet. Figured I’m trying to get nitrates up would help clean it up.

Maybe a 2nd wave maker to give more flow in the tank too? Thought one Nero 3 in a 40L nuvo aio would be enough.

Thoughts?

IMG_2791.jpeg IMG_2792.jpeg IMG_2787.jpeg IMG_2788.jpeg
I dont see much in the way of Cyano and not a huge fan of chemiClean. First is to find out what caused it and fight it proactively as it will often start when nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high. Often, when there are areas with little flow, detritus builds up and becomes a platform for cyano. Water changes are important unlike what the perception of not doing one which reduces the organic content that feeds cyano.
I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.
After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
 
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unclepregs

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I dont see much in the way of Cyano and not a huge fan of chemiClean. First is to find out what caused it and fight it proactively as it will often start when nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high. Often, when there are areas with little flow, detritus builds up and becomes a platform for cyano. Water changes are important unlike what the perception of not doing one which reduces the organic content that feeds cyano.
I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.
After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
I’m struggling to find the source of why it started. Phos got high once but it’s always been under control .04-.12 and nitrates always sat around 10-12. It didn’t seem like I had dead spots in the tank as far as flow but I’m adding a second Nero 3 soon. I will continue doing water changes as usual and trying to vacuum the sand bed. When I do vacuum it’s not really sucking up the algae unless I take the end tube off the line in which I’m sucking up all my sand.

I’ll buy some microbacter7 for bacteria and get some hydrogen peroxide to dose each night. White intensity on my lights sits at like 5% so it’s already pretty low. Hopefully my abundance of CUC can get the rest.

How does chemipure balance out phos and nitrates? I’m currently sitting at like .03 and 1.4 nitrates. Got my first nitrate reading after it bottomed out about 5 weeks ago or so.
 

vetteguy53081

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I’m struggling to find the source of why it started. Phos got high once but it’s always been under control .04-.12 and nitrates always sat around 10-12. It didn’t seem like I had dead spots in the tank as far as flow but I’m adding a second Nero 3 soon. I will continue doing water changes as usual and trying to vacuum the sand bed. When I do vacuum it’s not really sucking up the algae unless I take the end tube off the line in which I’m sucking up all my sand.

I’ll buy some microbacter7 for bacteria and get some hydrogen peroxide to dose each night. White intensity on my lights sits at like 5% so it’s already pretty low. Hopefully my abundance of CUC can get the rest.

How does chemipure balance out phos and nitrates? I’m currently sitting at like .03 and 1.4 nitrates. Got my first nitrate reading after it bottomed out about 5 weeks ago or so.
Some reasons why it starts or become present:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with air bubbles which form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it settles as skimmate. When the protein skimmer has low efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created might be insufficient and can trigger cyano .
- Use of Aminos which actually feed them.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured will act as a breeding ground for red slime .
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is a welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example of po4 and no3 introduction.
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for red slime algae development
 
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unclepregs

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Some reasons why it starts or become present:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with air bubbles which form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it settles as skimmate. When the protein skimmer has low efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created might be insufficient and can trigger cyano .
- Use of Aminos which actually feed them.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured will act as a breeding ground for red slime .
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is a welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example of po4 and no3 introduction.
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for red slime algae development
These are all awesome examples, thanks for that.

I will say that I tried to be as low tech as possible and see how it went so I have no protein skimmer. Only filtration I have is filter floss. Worked well for 8 straight months, but now I’m thinking of picking one up over the weekend.

My tank is only stocked with 3 fish so I know it’s not overstocked. Was 4 until my mandarin goby disappeared with 0 trace. Might overfeed slightly so I’m tuning that down to every other day for a week or two.

Haven’t added any rock in the tank since it was filled. It’s also a green not red cyano.

Using a 6 stage rodi system and tds shows 0 on the meter but will need to replace some cartridges here in the next couple months.

Gonna take your tips and put them to use and I’ll come back to this thread with a reply!
 

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