Mean and they also fade in the aquarium.Scott’s are really pretty fish, but oh my they have been some of the meanest fish in my experience. Wish there was a more peaceful strain of them to be found somewhere in the world!
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Mean and they also fade in the aquarium.Scott’s are really pretty fish, but oh my they have been some of the meanest fish in my experience. Wish there was a more peaceful strain of them to be found somewhere in the world!
I finally decided to restart my old sump which has been sitting unattached since December. Wanted to clean it out first though. Absolutely teaming with the things. There were much bigger ones but could not get them out of this filter.That was a decent sized worm!
No it was my qt tank not the stores. It started with my dt tank water and I maintained salinity and stuff. I just don’t know if salinity increased in the qt and the dt was lower on the day I transferred him.Need to know this. A lot of stores etc will run their fish only an QT tanks at 1.018. If you dump the fish in the DT at 1.026 that would not be a good thing.
So unlikely a big salinity change issue. Would really have to be 4 points or more off. Was this treated with 30 days copperpower or similar. As @Crabby48 has found that some wrasses start to go downhill after 3 weeks. Happened with my magma. I would also consider a strike injury with wrasse dropped i to new environment. Different lighting and feeding routines that could spook a new wrasse.No it was my qt tank not the stores. It started with my dt tank water and I maintained salinity and stuff. I just don’t know if salinity increased in the qt and the dt was lower on the day I transferred him.
I think the “love” emoji should be automatically attached to all of your photos.@i can't think, I took a better photo of the roseafascia.
He's probably the most aggressive Cirrhilabrus in the system, occasionally gives chase to the jordani, but nothing too crazy. Added him after the lineatus and the jordani and I believe that may have helped in terms of the hierarchy and keeping the aggression fairly minimal. I would consider the sequencing and size of the system with regards to this species with others in the genus.
A couple of my other favorite Cirrhilabrus, both added after the roseafascia
Earlei
Johnsoni, young male (probably my favorite from the genus in terms of personality). Really like the behavior of these fish as terminal males
What level of quaritine do you do? I'm wondering if I should do more than two doses of prazi.Not the best pics by any means, but he's still slinking around the rockwork in quarantine. Zero aggression between him and any of the other wrasses in there so far. Already eating with the other fish, which is good sign in my experience. Seems much bolder than the chaliasi and filamentosus were when they were first introduced.
Cirrhilabrus ryukyuensis
These are in cupramine at 0.5mg/L and will remain at that for 30 days roughly. Some of the fish in here have been in here for a while (like the ornate leopard and possum wrasse, the clowns, and the cardinals) and have been at that level for about 4 months. They get prazi once weekly for 3 doses whenever a new fish gets added, along with 7 days of rally pro since I've had repeated issues with brooklynella hitching a ride in from multiple LFS in my area. I usually do at least 1 dose of levamisole as well.What level of quaritine do you do? I'm wondering if I should do more than two doses of prazi.
I don’t remember if it was crabby or Jay that recommended two doses spaced 7 days apart then a third at 10 daysWhat level of quaritine do you do? I'm wondering if I should do more than two doses of prazi.
They should get along great. Just a heads up though that Dr Reef has a bad reputation for sending the wrong fish. Everything I’ve gotten from him has been healthy but don’t expect to get the exact fish you ordered.My tank relatively new and only has a couple of small clowns. It's 3'x3' (IM 112) lagoon. I'm looking to add some peaceful wrasses. Specifically:
- McCosker's Flasher
- Carpenter Flasher
- Ruby Longfin Fairy
I would add them together from Dr. Reefs.
From what I've read, I think they should get along. Is that correct? Any issue with 3 wrasses in a 3'x3' tank?
Thanks.
My tank relatively new and only has a couple of small clowns. It's 3'x3' (IM 112) lagoon. I'm looking to add some peaceful wrasses. Specifically:
- McCosker's Flasher
- Carpenter Flasher
- Ruby Longfin Fairy
I would add them together from Dr. Reefs.
From what I've read, I think they should get along. Is that correct? Any issue with 3 wrasses in a 3'x3' tank?
Thanks.
And by exact he means it may be a completely different species.They should get along great. Just a heads up though that Dr Reef has a bad reputation for sending the wrong fish. Everything I’ve gotten from him has been healthy but don’t expect to get the exact fish you ordered.
You end up with the wrong fish...? Hopefully it's a better fish.Thanks. What happens if he sends the wrong fish?
He’s usually good about it and it’s usually a similar fish that is just as good. Just share photos of what you got here. You may get lucky but you could get something more aggressive than what you bought. The worst was when he sent out lunare wrasse instead of melanurus to multiple people.Thanks. What happens if he sends the wrong fish?
Hmm I don’t think it was that many points off. It was definitely close to 30 days of Fritz copper. In qt he showed zero signs of sickness. He was in good spirits. One thing did happen I just remembered my automatic light timer malfunctioned that day. The light was on all night and I turned it off early morning to give the fish some relief so he was cocooned later then usual. Other then that nothing different when I dropped him in a smooth calm swim under the cave.So unlikely a big salinity change issue. Would really have to be 4 points or more off. Was this treated with 30 days copperpower or similar. As @Crabby48 has found that some wrasses start to go downhill after 3 weeks. Happened with my magma. I would also consider a strike injury with wrasse dropped i to new environment. Different lighting and feeding routines that could spook a new wrasse.