Pny
Active Member
This is the presentation of a 275 gallon marine tank that used to have more Tangs than coral species. The tank is operated with lots of DIY equipment in addition to the 'of the shelf' equipment.
Introduction
I've been in the marine aquarium hobby for about 12 years. Being an engineer at heart, designing and building equipment for my tank is an integral part of my hobby. Studying the design of equipment in detail takes the knowledge to another level. Here's a presentation of my 1000 liter (275 us gallons) marine aquarium. (Before continue reading, please note that English is not my native language)
This is the FOWLR that wants to be a reef tank!
This tank was setup about 12 years ago as my very first marine / reef tank. After having two children I realized that my time and economy did not let me run this large tank as a full blown reef tank and its been running with very few corals for most of its time. Most equipment is dimensioned for a reef tank - This is the FOWLR thats wants to be a reef tank!
The main display is a standard glass tank with eurobracing. Under that sits a large sump. The sump was custom built by me as one of many DIY projects and implemented several features not seen on any sump back then. The display tank was not drilled, unfortunately, instead it has two small PVC overflows. The aquarium was set up in July 2008 and is still in operation today (December 2019). Since then I've started a second tank, a smaller reef cube.
The display tank currently houses 3 Tangs and a few other fish, only, (It used to have 8 tangs). The display tank contains about 120 kg / 265 lbs of live rock. It has coarse gravel mixed with some fine sand.
Aquarium
The aquarium is about 1000 liter (260 US gallons) glass tank, 200 x 70 x 70 cm, in 12mm glass with black background and black silicon. Before turning this aquarium into a saltwater tank the aquarium was running as a "High-Tech" heavily planted fresh water tank for about 6 years. I reused the tank, the DIY stand, HQI lights (now replaced with LED) and UV-filter from that setup.
Tank stand (DIY)
The aquarium stand is a wooden stand with doors from IKEA. These doors are very resistant and still look very nice ten years after I built it! The tank base is about 1 meter above the floor so it provides plenty of room for my sump and equipment inside the stand. I also like the idea of being able to look straight into the tank in standing position. The stand is isolated with sound proofing foam. Two fans ventilates the stand. I built this myself the year 2002.
Sump (DIY)
The sump is a 380 liter (100 US gallons) tank measuring 115 x 54 x 60 cm in 10mm glass with black background and bottom and black silicon. The sump is placed inside the stand under the display tank. The sump is partitioned into four sections. The sump holds about 100 liter fresh water for top off. The design allow water to flow back into the fresh water reserve instead of out on the floor in case of a failure of the equipment controlling the ATO. The return pump has its own section at the right side of the sump and the skimmer has its own section above the fresh water reservoir. A water change section holds about 100 liter water and allows me to mix new saltwater while the rest of the system is running without using any external buckets.
LED Light (DIY)
The light is a full spectrum DIY LED fixture with DIY LED driver and DIY LED controller. The LED driver is a CAT4101-based design with six individually controlled constant current drivers per card and the LED controller is a very slim Arduino based stand alone 16 chn PWM controller with LCD, FAN control and RTC with battery backup. The LEDs are 35 pcs (115 W) Cree XP-G NW, 56 pcs (118 W) Cree XT-E Royal Blue (455 nm), 8 pcs (12 W) True Violet (420 nm), 7 pcs (17 W) Cree XP-E Blue (475 nm), 2 pcs (3 W) Deep Red (660 nm), 4 pcs (10 W) Green (495 nm) per fixture, (I have two fixtures).
Overflow (DIY)
The aquarium has a DIY PVC overflow made entirely from PVC pipes (no box required), utilizing a two pipe full siphon design for silent operation.
Return Pump
An Jebao DCP-8000 is used currently used as return pump. It feeed the display tank and some reactors through a manyfold. Before that I had an Laguna PT344 max flo 6000 pond pump that replaced my initial Eheim 1260 pump.
Circulation
The water movement in the tank is generated by five Tunze Turbelle Stream 610x each delivering a flow of 13.000 liter per hour. A Tunze Multi controller 7095 pulses the flow between the pumps. About half of the pumps is using the new wide flow outlets provided by Tunze.
Top Off
Top off is controlled by a Tunze Osmolator 3155. The fresh water reserve is a section inside the sump. The ATO section holds water for about 1.5-2 weeks between refills. I refill this container manually. The water is filtered by a five stage reverse osmosis unit that produces water for both my tanks. The RO has a booster pump and is capable of generating 400 gpd. The water quality is measured with an inline TDS meter on the RO. Living in Sweden, our tapwater is usually very clean, resulting in 0 TDS water output from the RO.
Ca Mg Alk and Carbon Supplement
A set of Kamoer 3+4 channel dosing pumps adds carbon source (vinegar), Alkalinity (HCO3), Calcium (Ca) and Magnesium (Mg) to the aquarium. I used to have a Schuran jetstream 1 Calcium reactor but it is currently offline.
Temperature Control (DIY)
A DIY STC-1000 temperature controller regulates the temperature by controlling the heaters. The temperature controller provides redundancy to the thermostat in the heater and thus provides protection against accidental overheating of the aquarium at any fault in the heater.
Filtration
I'm using a Bubble King Supermarine 250 internal skimmer from Royal Exclusiv. Actually, this was the very first of this model to be imported to Sweden. This skimmer is rated at 2300 liter air/h i combination with a power consumption of 48 Watt. I was also probably the first swede to get the Theiling Rollermat fleece filter. I guess I ordered it the day it hit the market in Europe.
A large algae filter, Grotech mab220, provides som algae filtering of the water.
Previously I've experimented with DIY algae scrubbers, DIY recirculating bio pellets reactor and various DIY reactors to keep the phosphate and nitrate levels low. But currently I try to keep it a little simplier using Lanthanum chloride for phosphate reduction.
Ozone and UV filters
Ozone is supplemented a few hour each night. This makes the water clear. The ozone is mixed with water in an Avast Mutiny II Ozone reactor and the water and air is post filtered by a Avast custom length reactor filled with 3 liter carbon (GAC). I currently doesnt measure ORP.
Additionally a De Bary AN-25E UVC filter is attached to the full siphon drain pipe from the aquarium.
More
This is the first of two tanks I am currently running. The other tank, a reef cube, can be found here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/pnys-reef-cube.675968/
Tank Specifications
System Profile
Equipment
Livestock
Fish
Blue Tang, Paracanthurus hepatus (2008)
Purple Tang, Zebrasoma xanthurum (2009)
Red Sea Sailfin Tang, Zebrasoma desjardini (2013)
Red-toothed Trigger, Odonus niger (2013)
Lemonpeel Angel, Centropyge flavissima (2013)
Yellowtail Damsel, Chrysiptera parasema (x2) (2008)
Clownfish, Amphiprion ocellaris (x2) (2009)
Invertebrates
Assorted snails
Corals
Green star polyp sp.
Rhodactis sp.
Discosoma sp.
Sarcophyton sp.
Ricordea sp.
Photos
Introduction
I've been in the marine aquarium hobby for about 12 years. Being an engineer at heart, designing and building equipment for my tank is an integral part of my hobby. Studying the design of equipment in detail takes the knowledge to another level. Here's a presentation of my 1000 liter (275 us gallons) marine aquarium. (Before continue reading, please note that English is not my native language)
This is the FOWLR that wants to be a reef tank!
This tank was setup about 12 years ago as my very first marine / reef tank. After having two children I realized that my time and economy did not let me run this large tank as a full blown reef tank and its been running with very few corals for most of its time. Most equipment is dimensioned for a reef tank - This is the FOWLR thats wants to be a reef tank!
The main display is a standard glass tank with eurobracing. Under that sits a large sump. The sump was custom built by me as one of many DIY projects and implemented several features not seen on any sump back then. The display tank was not drilled, unfortunately, instead it has two small PVC overflows. The aquarium was set up in July 2008 and is still in operation today (December 2019). Since then I've started a second tank, a smaller reef cube.
The display tank currently houses 3 Tangs and a few other fish, only, (It used to have 8 tangs). The display tank contains about 120 kg / 265 lbs of live rock. It has coarse gravel mixed with some fine sand.
Aquarium
The aquarium is about 1000 liter (260 US gallons) glass tank, 200 x 70 x 70 cm, in 12mm glass with black background and black silicon. Before turning this aquarium into a saltwater tank the aquarium was running as a "High-Tech" heavily planted fresh water tank for about 6 years. I reused the tank, the DIY stand, HQI lights (now replaced with LED) and UV-filter from that setup.
Tank stand (DIY)
The aquarium stand is a wooden stand with doors from IKEA. These doors are very resistant and still look very nice ten years after I built it! The tank base is about 1 meter above the floor so it provides plenty of room for my sump and equipment inside the stand. I also like the idea of being able to look straight into the tank in standing position. The stand is isolated with sound proofing foam. Two fans ventilates the stand. I built this myself the year 2002.
Sump (DIY)
The sump is a 380 liter (100 US gallons) tank measuring 115 x 54 x 60 cm in 10mm glass with black background and bottom and black silicon. The sump is placed inside the stand under the display tank. The sump is partitioned into four sections. The sump holds about 100 liter fresh water for top off. The design allow water to flow back into the fresh water reserve instead of out on the floor in case of a failure of the equipment controlling the ATO. The return pump has its own section at the right side of the sump and the skimmer has its own section above the fresh water reservoir. A water change section holds about 100 liter water and allows me to mix new saltwater while the rest of the system is running without using any external buckets.
LED Light (DIY)
The light is a full spectrum DIY LED fixture with DIY LED driver and DIY LED controller. The LED driver is a CAT4101-based design with six individually controlled constant current drivers per card and the LED controller is a very slim Arduino based stand alone 16 chn PWM controller with LCD, FAN control and RTC with battery backup. The LEDs are 35 pcs (115 W) Cree XP-G NW, 56 pcs (118 W) Cree XT-E Royal Blue (455 nm), 8 pcs (12 W) True Violet (420 nm), 7 pcs (17 W) Cree XP-E Blue (475 nm), 2 pcs (3 W) Deep Red (660 nm), 4 pcs (10 W) Green (495 nm) per fixture, (I have two fixtures).
Overflow (DIY)
The aquarium has a DIY PVC overflow made entirely from PVC pipes (no box required), utilizing a two pipe full siphon design for silent operation.
Return Pump
An Jebao DCP-8000 is used currently used as return pump. It feeed the display tank and some reactors through a manyfold. Before that I had an Laguna PT344 max flo 6000 pond pump that replaced my initial Eheim 1260 pump.
Circulation
The water movement in the tank is generated by five Tunze Turbelle Stream 610x each delivering a flow of 13.000 liter per hour. A Tunze Multi controller 7095 pulses the flow between the pumps. About half of the pumps is using the new wide flow outlets provided by Tunze.
Top Off
Top off is controlled by a Tunze Osmolator 3155. The fresh water reserve is a section inside the sump. The ATO section holds water for about 1.5-2 weeks between refills. I refill this container manually. The water is filtered by a five stage reverse osmosis unit that produces water for both my tanks. The RO has a booster pump and is capable of generating 400 gpd. The water quality is measured with an inline TDS meter on the RO. Living in Sweden, our tapwater is usually very clean, resulting in 0 TDS water output from the RO.
Ca Mg Alk and Carbon Supplement
A set of Kamoer 3+4 channel dosing pumps adds carbon source (vinegar), Alkalinity (HCO3), Calcium (Ca) and Magnesium (Mg) to the aquarium. I used to have a Schuran jetstream 1 Calcium reactor but it is currently offline.
Temperature Control (DIY)
A DIY STC-1000 temperature controller regulates the temperature by controlling the heaters. The temperature controller provides redundancy to the thermostat in the heater and thus provides protection against accidental overheating of the aquarium at any fault in the heater.
Filtration
I'm using a Bubble King Supermarine 250 internal skimmer from Royal Exclusiv. Actually, this was the very first of this model to be imported to Sweden. This skimmer is rated at 2300 liter air/h i combination with a power consumption of 48 Watt. I was also probably the first swede to get the Theiling Rollermat fleece filter. I guess I ordered it the day it hit the market in Europe.
A large algae filter, Grotech mab220, provides som algae filtering of the water.
Previously I've experimented with DIY algae scrubbers, DIY recirculating bio pellets reactor and various DIY reactors to keep the phosphate and nitrate levels low. But currently I try to keep it a little simplier using Lanthanum chloride for phosphate reduction.
Ozone and UV filters
Ozone is supplemented a few hour each night. This makes the water clear. The ozone is mixed with water in an Avast Mutiny II Ozone reactor and the water and air is post filtered by a Avast custom length reactor filled with 3 liter carbon (GAC). I currently doesnt measure ORP.
Additionally a De Bary AN-25E UVC filter is attached to the full siphon drain pipe from the aquarium.
More
This is the first of two tanks I am currently running. The other tank, a reef cube, can be found here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/pnys-reef-cube.675968/
Tank Specifications
System Profile
| System Water Volume: | 1040 liter (275 US gallons) |
| Display tank: | 200x70x70cm, 980 liter glass tank |
| Sump: | 115x54x60cm DIY glass sump with a built in ATO reservoir |
| Display Stand: | DIY stand based on IKEA kitchen doors |
Equipment
| Lighting: | 2x275W DIY LED, mainly Cree XT-E and XP-G |
| Skimmer: | Royal Exclusive Bubble King Supermarine 250 internal |
| Return Pump: | Jebao DCP-8000 (2110 us gallons/h) |
| Circulation: | 5x Tunze stream 2 610x, each 13.000 liter/h |
| Mech. Filter: | Theiling Rollermat |
| Algae Filter: | Grotech mab220 |
| ATO: | Tunze Osmolator 3155 with 100 liter reservoir in sump |
| Temp Control: | Dual DIY STC-1000 Temperature Controller |
| Heater: | Jaeger 300 W |
| Fan: | 2x GHL PropellerBreeze II 6 |
| Dosing: | Kamoer KSP-F03 + KSP-F04 (3+4 channels) |
| Other Reactors: | DIY Activated Carbon reactor |
| Ozone: | Avast Mutiny II and custom postfilter |
| UV-filter: | De Bary AN-25E |
| Auto Feeder: | 2x Eheim 3581 |
| Reverse Osmosis: | 5 stage 400 gpd Reverse osmosis |
Livestock
Fish
Blue Tang, Paracanthurus hepatus (2008)
Purple Tang, Zebrasoma xanthurum (2009)
Red Sea Sailfin Tang, Zebrasoma desjardini (2013)
Red-toothed Trigger, Odonus niger (2013)
Lemonpeel Angel, Centropyge flavissima (2013)
Yellowtail Damsel, Chrysiptera parasema (x2) (2008)
Clownfish, Amphiprion ocellaris (x2) (2009)
Invertebrates
Assorted snails
Corals
Green star polyp sp.
Rhodactis sp.
Discosoma sp.
Sarcophyton sp.
Ricordea sp.
Photos
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