Swedish fish - behind the scenes rebuilding a public aquarium

[Sallstrom]

I've seen the size of some of those colonies. Are these tanks going to be deep enough to hold them?

No We will have to cut up many colonies in smaller pieces unfortunately.
But I'm trying to save some large ones that's not so tall, like A. hyacinthus and Stylopora. I have a plan on reproduction experiment so I'll need large colonies for that.
Then there's a lot of Seriatopora and Montipora that we will give away. They grow to fast and we already have too much.
So I'm in peace with not saving all our corals.
We won't use any of our larger and deeper tanks in the temporary Aquarium because we're not allowed to put that weight on the floor in that room. Or we could use them but then we couldn't have two tanks on top of each other. So instead we're going for as much surface area as possible and that means shallow tanks.
Not sure what to do with all the live rock yet Want to save them all, so we need to figure something out.

 

[Brew12]

No We will have to cut up many colonies in smaller pieces unfortunately.
But I'm trying to save some large ones that's not so tall, like A. hyacinthus and Stylopora. I have a plan on reproduction experiment so I'll need large colonies for that.
Then there's a lot of Seriatopora and Montipora that we will give away. They grow to fast and we already have too much.
So I'm in peace with not saving all our corals.
We won't use any of our larger and deeper tanks in the temporary Aquarium because we're not allowed to put that weight on the floor in that room. Or we could use them but then we couldn't have two tanks on top of each other. So instead we're going for as much surface area as possible and that means shallow tanks.
Not sure what to do with all the live rock yet Want to save them all, so we need to figure something out.

Does Lasse have a basement you can flood? Pond liners are cheap!

 

[Sallstrom]

Does Lasse have a basement you can flood? Pond liners are cheap!

Would be even better with a large greenhouse! Those lights are expensive stuff..(just got price examples on some light that might work for our future reef tank ).
Every time I see a greenhouse I start dreaming...

 

[Brew12]

(just got price examples on some light that might work for our future reef tank ).

Shhhhh!!! Don't tell the politicians yet! ;Greedy

 

[Sallstrom]

Shhhhh!!! Don't tell the politicians yet! ;Greedy

Hehe. That's okey. The lights for the aquariums goes on our own budget, from a foundation. It's a bit complicated, but an easy way to put it - everything that touches aquarium water are ours (The Aquarium's). Concrete - that's the city's. The sealing - thats ours. So two budgets, the city's and ours. The lights shouldn't touch the water, but yeah, it belongs to the aquarium

 

[Dr. Dendrostein]

Now most of the stands and tanks are in place! Even started with PVC work today. So things are moving on with the temporary Aquarium
In the middle of the room there'll be another 4 meter long propagation tank, two tanks on one stand. But we need to get some other containers like RO water and sumps in first.
We will probably start 4 systems. One cold water, one SPS, one "everything from our tropical tanks" and one for the seahorses. Might connect the two coral systems together later but start this way I think.
View attachment 984044 View attachment 984045

Nice, thanks for the ideas.

 

[Dr. Dendrostein]

Would be even better with a large greenhouse! Those lights are expensive stuff..(just got price examples on some light that might work for our future reef tank ).
Every time I see a greenhouse I start dreaming...

In the stone age of reef keeping, 6500 K would be plenty, boy times have change. 96 in VHO fluorescent as many as you can pack would have been the norm besides the metal halide at 4000 K

 

[Dr. Dendrostein]

I'm driving back to check on my children of the sea. The only issue I'm having right now is the fish feeder the slot where the food comes out keeps plugging up every 6 hours approximately I think it's time for a new one different design.

 

[Dr. Dendrostein]

I had a healthy dendro Coral by the larger dendro corals ,and today this morning pretty much dead so just remember if you get any more keep them apart and if you can have one only very healthy one, try that way and raising them this is the second time this has happened I notice. Small corals with larger corals not a good combination.

 

[Sallstrom]

I had a healthy dendro Coral by the larger dendro corals ,and today this morning pretty much dead so just remember if you get any more keep them apart and if you can have one only very healthy one, try that way and raising them this is the second time this has happened I notice. Small corals with larger corals not a good combination.

Thanks for the heads up! And I'm sorry the loss.
I'm following your thread and trying to keep me updated. At the moment my motivation is low due to some personal stuff, but I'm collecting ideas for when the energy returns.

 

[Sallstrom]

I brought these home today for some inspiration. When my motivation returns I'll be ready

 

[Sallstrom]

Got some energy this morning to write my own list on algae in a reef tank. This was after reading the popular thread "WHAT IF I TOLD YOU...". I didn't want to post it in his thread. He's got his list, I got mine. I wrote this very quick since I need to get out to get some sun. We are not spoiled with sunshine in Sweden this time a year
Sometimes I'll try to write down a better text on this subject. The numbers doesn't mean that much, so it's not a step by step list.

My approach to unwanted algae and Cyanobacteria in reef tanks

1. During a startup I want to see algae growing. That’s why I run lots of light from the start. First usually the diatoms will start grow. Then sometimes different types of green algae. If the nutrients gets low Cyanobacteria might start to grow early as well.
All this is okay. Most algae likes the same water conditions as corals, so it’s an indication on that the water is fine(no copper for example).

2. Diatoms are great food for many herbivors. In larger tanks you can add Ctenochaetus tangs in the first phase when there’s a lot of diatoms. You don’t even need to feed them as long as there are diatoms for them to graze. A Ctenochaetus tang might clean a 1000L tank of visible diatoms in a week . Urchins like Black longspined sea urchin and Collector urchin will also do a great job, but are not as fast as a tang.

3. To avoid Cyanobacteria in the startup I like to keep an eye on the nutrient levels. I add both phosphate and nitrate if they get low. Low for me are PO4 under 0,03ppm and NO3 under 2ppm. I’m more affraid of low values than of high ones. So I feed the algae.

4. Hermit crabs and snails are great small creatures eating algae. But a Sea urchin or a Ctenocheatus tang will do the job for 25 hermit crabs. So when starting a large tank I go with tangs and urchins.

5. Rabbitfishes might eat Valonia algae(bubble algae). Mitrax crabs graze on them as well. Sea urchins might work too.

6. Most tanks will get Aiptasia(I know they’re not an algae, but to be fair they are holobionts containing an algae ). Therefor I like to add a filefish or two. A Copperband butterflyfish eat Aiptasia as well, but might be harder to keep alive. Peppermint shrimps are another option.

7. As the time goes many of the opportunistic algae will be outcompeted by coralline algae. Once the coralline algae takes over the space on the substrate the opportonistic algae won’t have anywhere to grow. When the tank is in this phase you could add all the nutrients you want(well, in reasonable quantities) without getting hair algae for example.

8. Every time you’ll add a new and clean substrate the fast growing opportunistic organisms will start to grow first. That’s just the way it should be.

9. If you don’t get rid of the hair algae, add more urchins. I borrow them from other tanks at my work, maybe a LFS can borrow you a couple of urchins if you ask nicely. Return them when the algae is gone.

10. As long as the unwanted algae doesn't have anywhere to grow and the nutrient levels are where you want them, I don't see any problems with detritus. The ditritus might even be a good nutrient source if the N(not so much) and P(mostly) gets low in the water column.


Disclaimer - I haven't started small tanks in a while, the ones I work with are usually 800L and larger. So herbivor fish might be harder to fish for smaller tanks. Sea urchins on the other hand do well in small tanks too, as long as the get the food they need.

 

[NY_Caveman]

This is excellent. I am learning.

#reefsquad, good read here ^^^

 

[crusso1993]

Got some energy this morning to write my own list on algae in a reef tank. This was after reading the popular thread "WHAT IF I TOLD YOU...". I didn't want to post it in his thread. He's got his list, I got mine. I wrote this very quick since I need to get out to get some sun. We are not spoiled with sunshine in Sweden this time a year
Sometimes I'll try to write down a better text on this subject. The numbers doesn't mean that much, so it's not a step by step list.

My approach to unwanted algae and Cyanobacteria in reef tanks

1. During a startup I want to see algae growing. That’s why I run lots of light from the start. First usually the diatoms will start grow. Then sometimes different types of green algae. If the nutrients gets low Cyanobacteria might start to grow early as well.
All this is okay. Most algae likes the same water conditions as corals, so it’s an indication on that the water is fine(no copper for example).

2. Diatoms are great food for many herbivors. In larger tanks you can add Ctenochaetus tangs in the first phase when there’s a lot of diatoms. You don’t even need to feed them as long as there are diatoms for them to graze. A Ctenochaetus tang might clean a 1000L tank of visible diatoms in a week . Urchins like Black longspined sea urchin and Collector urchin will also do a great job, but are not as fast as a tang.

3. To avoid Cyanobacteria in the startup I like to keep an eye on the nutrient levels. I add both phosphate and nitrate if they get low. Low for me are PO4 under 0,03ppm and NO3 under 2ppm. I’m more affraid of low values than of high ones. So I feed the algae.

4. Hermit crabs and snails are great small creatures eating algae. But a Sea urchin or a Ctenocheatus tang will do the job for 25 hermit crabs. So when starting a large tank I go with tangs and urchins.

5. Rabbitfishes might eat Valonia algae(bubble algae). Mitrax crabs graze on them as well. Sea urchins might work too.

6. Most tanks will get Aiptasia(I know they’re not an algae, but to be fair they are holobionts containing a algae ). Therefor I like to add a filefish or two. A Copperband butterflyfish eat Aiptasia as well, but might be harder to keep alive. Peppermint shrimps are another option.

7. As the time goes many of the opportunistic algae will be outcompeted by coralline algae. Ones the coralline algae takes over the space on the substrate the opportonistic algae won’t have anywhere to grow. When the tank is in this phase you could add all the nutrients you want(well, in reasonable quantities) without getting hair algae for example.

8. Every time you’ll add a new and clean substrate the fast growing opportunistic organisms will start to grow first. That’s just the way it should be.

9. If you don’t get rid of the hair algae, add more urchins. I borrow them from other tanks at my work, maybe a LFS can borrow you a couple of urchins if you ask nicely. Return them when the algae is gone.

10. As long as the unwanted algae don't have anywhere to grow and the nutrient levels are where you want them, I don't see any problems with detritus. The ditritus might even be a good nutrient source if the N(not so much) and P(mostly) gets low in the water column.


Disclaimer - I haven't started small tanks in a while, the ones I work with are usually 800L and larger. So herbivor fish might be harder to fish for smaller tanks. Sea urchins on the other hand do well in small tanks too, as long as the get the food they need.

Thanks for sharing! I look forward to a follow up after you've gotten enough sun. Wait, that may not be until July, so maybe a vitamin D supplement is in order!

 

[Brew12]

Got some energy this morning to write my own list on algae in a reef tank. This was after reading the popular thread "WHAT IF I TOLD YOU...". I didn't want to post it in his thread. He's got his list, I got mine. I wrote this very quick since I need to get out to get some sun. We are not spoiled with sunshine in Sweden this time a year
Sometimes I'll try to write down a better text on this subject. The numbers doesn't mean that much, so it's not a step by step list.

My approach to unwanted algae and Cyanobacteria in reef tanks

1. During a startup I want to see algae growing. That’s why I run lots of light from the start. First usually the diatoms will start grow. Then sometimes different types of green algae. If the nutrients gets low Cyanobacteria might start to grow early as well.
All this is okay. Most algae likes the same water conditions as corals, so it’s an indication on that the water is fine(no copper for example).

2. Diatoms are great food for many herbivors. In larger tanks you can add Ctenochaetus tangs in the first phase when there’s a lot of diatoms. You don’t even need to feed them as long as there are diatoms for them to graze. A Ctenochaetus tang might clean a 1000L tank of visible diatoms in a week . Urchins like Black longspined sea urchin and Collector urchin will also do a great job, but are not as fast as a tang.

3. To avoid Cyanobacteria in the startup I like to keep an eye on the nutrient levels. I add both phosphate and nitrate if they get low. Low for me are PO4 under 0,03ppm and NO3 under 2ppm. I’m more affraid of low values than of high ones. So I feed the algae.

4. Hermit crabs and snails are great small creatures eating algae. But a Sea urchin or a Ctenocheatus tang will do the job for 25 hermit crabs. So when starting a large tank I go with tangs and urchins.

5. Rabbitfishes might eat Valonia algae(bubble algae). Mitrax crabs graze on them as well. Sea urchins might work too.

6. Most tanks will get Aiptasia(I know they’re not an algae, but to be fair they are holobionts containing a algae ). Therefor I like to add a filefish or two. A Copperband butterflyfish eat Aiptasia as well, but might be harder to keep alive. Peppermint shrimps are another option.

7. As the time goes many of the opportunistic algae will be outcompeted by coralline algae. Ones the coralline algae takes over the space on the substrate the opportonistic algae won’t have anywhere to grow. When the tank is in this phase you could add all the nutrients you want(well, in reasonable quantities) without getting hair algae for example.

8. Every time you’ll add a new and clean substrate the fast growing opportunistic organisms will start to grow first. That’s just the way it should be.

9. If you don’t get rid of the hair algae, add more urchins. I borrow them from other tanks at my work, maybe a LFS can borrow you a couple of urchins if you ask nicely. Return them when the algae is gone.

10. As long as the unwanted algae don't have anywhere to grow and the nutrient levels are where you want them, I don't see any problems with detritus. The ditritus might even be a good nutrient source if the N(not so much) and P(mostly) gets low in the water column.


Disclaimer - I haven't started small tanks in a while, the ones I work with are usually 800L and larger. So herbivor fish might be harder to fish for smaller tanks. Sea urchins on the other hand do well in small tanks too, as long as the get the food they need.

Couldn't agree more. This matches my mindset almost exactly. It's almost like Lasse has influenced us both.

I love algae in a new tank. I appreciate the fact that it will help consume ammonia to provide a safety margin for adding fish.

 

[Lasse]

@Brew12 it is an ocean between us. Sallstrom has to work with me

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Brew12]

@Brew12 it is an ocean between us. Sallstrom has to work with me

Sincerely Lasse

Thanks to this new fangled internet thingie I found on my computer I can absorb your knowledge from across the ocean!!!

 

[Sallstrom]

Thanks!
When I reread my last post I'm wondering why I even bother keeping the nutrients low But I guess I don't want the parameters to go too far away from natural sea water

Yeah, not a lot of sun today. Took some D-vitamin as well. Thanks for the reminder!
We are waiting so much for the spring here in Sweden. When everybody wakes up after the winter. It's great to know that that season is ahead!

 

[Dr. Dendrostein]

Thanks!
When I reread my last post I'm wondering why I even bother keeping the nutrients low But I guess I don't want the parameters to go too far away from natural sea water

Yeah, not a lot of sun today. Took some D-vitamin as well. Thanks for the reminder!
We are waiting so much for the spring here in Sweden. When everybody wakes up after the winter. It's great to know that that season is ahead!

You know what makes me scratch my head is, I read some papers where they take readings of nitrates and some of the ocean dealing with dendronephthya corals and the nitrates are anywhere from 15ppm upto 20+ ppm, how do you figure that. And of course these oceans have hard corals to.

 

[Sallstrom]

You know what makes me scratch my head is, I read some papers where they take readings of nitrates and some of the ocean dealing with dendronephthya corals and the nitrates are anywhere from 15ppm upto 20 ppm, how do you figure that. And of course these oceans have hard corals to.

Are you sure on those numbers? Now I can't remember exactly but I think nitrate usually is lower than 1ppm, even in Swedish nutrient rich waters. Of course it varies, but doesn't go that much higher.