Swedish fish - behind the scenes rebuilding a public aquarium

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With a negative attitude like this you are going to miss the latest fad! ;Troll

Now that I know which systems of reefing work the best, I do them all.
I run high nutrients on Monday-Thursday, low nutrients Friday-Sunday.
On high nutrient days I run Alk at 12dkh, I run it at 7dkh on low nutrient days.
On Monday I do the Triton method, Tuesday I add filter socks. I run without a skimmer on Wednesday and micro-nano bubble on Thursday. Carbon dosing is for Fridays and biopellets over the weekend.
I do a large water change on Monday and continuous water change on Tuesday. Wednesday I do the Balling method, Randy's 2 part on Thursday and Kalk dosing on Friday. The calcium reactor handles the weekend.

Most importantly, Stability is key, so it's critical to maintain the proper rotation. ;Smuggrin

Don't forget the micro bubbles on the weekends and to turn off the skimmer on Wednesdays ;)

It actually took two sentences for me to get where you were going. Slow head today :D

But that's is something I don't really understand. Corals are not easy to keep, why not be happy when they are looking fine and growing slow? Is it because everyone is selling frags or just inpatients?

I know I'm getting old in this game :D Working with it probably speeds up that ageing..
 
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Don't forget the micro bubbles on the weekends and to turn off the skimmer on Wednesdays ;)

It actually took two sentences for me to get where you were going. Slow head today :D

But that's is something I don't really understand. Corals are not easy to keep, why not be happy when they are looking fine and growing slow? Is it because everyone is selling frags or just inpatients?

I know I'm getting old in this game :D Working with it probably speeds up that ageing..
Yes, i blame frags,,,, little frags
 
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For everyone not living in Gothenburg(that's quite a few here on R2R:D), this is where the new Aquarium will be. Under the grass!
Today they do some drilling tests, looking for water and where the rocks starts.
IMG_6524.JPG
 
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With a negative attitude like this you are going to miss the latest fad! ;Troll

Now that I know which systems of reefing work the best, I do them all.
I run high nutrients on Monday-Thursday, low nutrients Friday-Sunday.
On high nutrient days I run Alk at 12dkh, I run it at 7dkh on low nutrient days.
On Monday I do the Triton method, Tuesday I add filter socks. I run without a skimmer on Wednesday and micro-nano bubble on Thursday. Carbon dosing is for Fridays and biopellets over the weekend.
I do a large water change on Monday and continuous water change on Tuesday. Wednesday I do the Balling method, Randy's 2 part on Thursday and Kalk dosing on Friday. The calcium reactor handles the weekend.

Most importantly, Stability is key, so it's critical to maintain the proper rotation. ;Smuggrin
Gaw!!!
 

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New for us, dipping Acropora corals in tank water with extra potassium. Raised the K from ca 400ppm to ca 1600ppm. Dip is going on right now. Starting with 20 minutes.
Testing with 6 different species of Acropora.

View attachment 884784
View attachment 884785

I'll get back with results after lunch:)
I think I use Potassium chloride to raise my ca, in past. Funny

Or potassium nitrate?
 
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Dr. Dendrostein

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Did a search via Google and found some threads on other forums with the following claims:
-Small crustaceans might die if K goes over 600 ppm.
-Fish can start die at 600-700 ppm K.

I haven't looked up any more info on this, so this is not any evidens. Just someones notes on a forum.

I also found an in tank treatment example with potassium, killing snails, pods, and most things except corals. The aquarist was happy because the AEFW were gone :(

Anyway, might be a good thing to be careful when increasing the potassium level above NSW levels. It might work in a coral propagation tank with mostly corals. It might not work in a reef tank. I don't know.
It's gotta be true, it's on the Internet. Heehee
 
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On a different note, everyone . Did you hear. My children of the sea. 18 of them coming.
Dendronephthya corals. Finally.:)
Oh, great!! I'll be following! :)
 
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It actually took two sentences for me to get where you were going. Slow head today :D
Are you drinking the German coffee instead of the Swedish stuff today? o_O :p
 
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Are you drinking the German coffee instead of the Swedish stuff today? o_O :p
Just regular coffee. But an Irish coffee would be better! :p
 
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New for us, dipping Acropora corals in tank water with extra potassium. Raised the K from ca 400ppm to ca 1600ppm. Dip is going on right now. Starting with 20 minutes.
Testing with 6 different species of Acropora.

View attachment 884784
View attachment 884785

I'll get back with results after lunch:)
Soooo, back to the potassium chloride! :)

After reading some threads and looked at the corals that I dipped a couple of hours ago(they look fine, polyps extended), my way too fast conclusion is that corals, like Acropora, do well in high K levels. If that's the case, that opens up the possibilitys to either treat corals with 20-30 minutes dips or do long term treatment(3-4 weeks) in tanks with corals only(COWLR?!). Fortunately we got eight 100L tanks ready to go soon, so the long term treatment is kind of tempting to try. To let the corals be in the treatment more days then the AEFW eggs take to hatch(I think it's around 21 days).
Or dip them 3-4 times with 5-7 days in between. That's the question. The easiest would probably be the long term one. Otherwise we need to clean the tanks between every dip, and move the corals to new tanks.
Change some water weekly, fill up with filtered tank water would be easier. As you notice I just write what's going around in my mind now :)

Any input? :)
 
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Did a search via Google and found some threads on other forums with the following claims:
-Small crustaceans might die if K goes over 600 ppm.
-Fish can start die at 600-700 ppm K.

I haven't looked up any more info on this, so this is not any evidens. Just someones notes on a forum.

I also found an in tank treatment example with potassium, killing snails, pods, and most things except corals. The aquarist was happy because the AEFW were gone :(

Anyway, might be a good thing to be careful when increasing the potassium level above NSW levels. It might work in a coral propagation tank with mostly corals. It might not work in a reef tank. I don't know.

This probably happens to my old aquaria. Because of overdosing - I had high potassium concentrations - around 600 - 700. My CUC die of and fish start to die. The aquaria crashed and I did not restart it - buy another instead.

Sincerely Lasse
 

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I'm getting so inspired watching MACNA talk on Youtube, I just want start trying out breeding more species :)

So far we've tried and had good or at least okey succes with Seahorses(many times), Clownfish(one time), 4 species of jellyfish, Banggai cardinals(in tank, just catched the fry and gone from there) and Cuttlefish(S. bandensis). Not the most demanding animals to breed, but still need some special food etc. And we got all material we need to build breeding tanks, so the big issues for us to figure out are ways to grow or breed the right food source and to find rutines that's not too time consuming.

In a dream world we would have all kinds of live food going all the time. This is not the case right now :) But we've got a pretty good and simple algea culture going giving us about 8 liters of phytoplankton every day. Unfortunately just one species(Nannochloropsis I think), but it still work well for rotifers and artemia. Our rotifers have been up and running a couple of years now and are also in our rutines and are working well. Artemia we've hatched daily for almost ten years so that too is working well.

When it comes to larger food like live mysis and river shrimps we have tried to breed them. But so far not so much. During the summers we can collect a lot of mysis shrimps outside Gothenburg and buy river shrimps from Polen. During the winters we have no source to any of them. So getting a culture going would make it so much easier breeding Seahorses and Cuttlefish for example. And not just to breed, also to feed the adults with live food. Our Seahorses really enjoy chasing live food and are great hunters. And my guess is that the nutrients are better in live food as well.

Another live food we use is Gammarus, an amphipod crustacean. We can find them in both our cold water systems and tropical systems. They are possible to breed quite easy in small cups, but we mostly catch them from our refugiums. They are from 2mm up to 10mm. At least the ones we have, I know it's possible to buy Gammarus atlanticus in Europe and they are a bit bigger. Gammarus has been our first food for newly hatched Cuttlefish for example.

So where am I going with this post? I don't know, maybe just needed to go over our possibilities and challanges :)

On my wishlist are:
-a well working phytoplankton culture(or three, Nannochloripsis, Isocryssis and Synechococcus)
-upgraded kreisels - for fry or larvae or jellyfish
-a copepod culture, Parvocalanus would be great!
-a well working and not too time consuming culture of mysis or some kind of small shrimp species

When I write about our rutines, I mean stuff that goes into our daily to-do-list. So to add something that takes an hour a day is not possible. But 5 or 15 minutes a day might work, if you write a list for the coworkers thats not too complicated. If the new rutine works out it'll be a permanent task on our daily list, like hatching artemia or harvest phytoplankton have been.

Now I will watch some more talks on youtube!


What about the species Gammarus locusta? They breed readily and get up to 30mm which seems like it would be large enough for adult S. bandensis and others. You could even set up a big display refugium next to one of the big reef tanks and fill it with Ulva spp. and other macroalgae and breed G. locusta or other larger amphipods in there as a food source.

Good luck on the breeding and thanks for posting all of this cool behind the scenes stuff!
 
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What about the species Gammarus locusta? They breed readily and get up to 30mm which seems like it would be large enough for adult S. bandensis and others. You could even set up a big display refugium next to one of the big reef tanks and fill it with Ulva spp. and other macroalgae and breed G. locusta or other larger amphipods in there as a food source.

Good luck on the breeding and thanks for posting all of this cool behind the scenes stuff!

Thank you for the support! :)

Gammarus locusta and oceanicus seems to be about the same size according to the ID portal. And we've had G. oceanicus, might still be around in our systems :) It's great food for sure, but a full grown Sepia bandensis would have to eat quite a few adult G. locusta or G. oceanicus to be satisfied. But all the way from newly hatched to 4-5 cm lenght cuttlefish, those species are perfect to food. Also for seahorses, and I suppose mandarins(long time since we had any, but I would like to get a couple if we find breed ones).
We had a net collecting Gammarus now, from our cold water tank with macro algae. Usually filled with small Gammarus every morning. So that has worked well the last years. Breeding them more controlled is possible as well, just to collect them when the male are attached to the female(waiting for her to molt). When the male(often much larger) releases he can be removed. All it takes are small cups, just 1-2 dl of water in each. It's some work, but pretty easy work. They are very hardy.

The refugium idea is great! Yes, I would like some tanks like that. Showing other parts of the reef, and the ocean. Also put some focus on the smaller organisms and types of algae.
 
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Soooo, back to the potassium chloride! :)

After reading some threads and looked at the corals that I dipped a couple of hours ago(they look fine, polyps extended), my way too fast conclusion is that corals, like Acropora, do well in high K levels. If that's the case, that opens up the possibilitys to either treat corals with 20-30 minutes dips or do long term treatment(3-4 weeks) in tanks with corals only(COWLR?!). Fortunately we got eight 100L tanks ready to go soon, so the long term treatment is kind of tempting to try. To let the corals be in the treatment more days then the AEFW eggs take to hatch(I think it's around 21 days).
Or dip them 3-4 times with 5-7 days in between. That's the question. The easiest would probably be the long term one. Otherwise we need to clean the tanks between every dip, and move the corals to new tanks.
Change some water weekly, fill up with filtered tank water would be easier. As you notice I just write what's going around in my mind now :)

Any input? :)

I think you need to dip a frag with aefw.
My test kit only goes to 500, my last dip was just off scale, increased dose of 51% strength, each dip only 5 minutes.
I love science but I've not used it enough recently, someone needs to do a cell structure test, my guess will be osmotic shock?! ;)
 
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I think you need to dip a frag with aefw.
My test kit only goes to 500, my last dip was just off scale, increased dose of 51% strength, each dip only 5 minutes.
I love science but I've not used it enough recently, someone needs to do a cell structure test, my guess will be osmotic shock?! ;)
Yes, I'll try to do more dips today. Colonies I'm sure has AEFW.
I haven't read enough to learn how the potassium is harmful for animals, it might be the cell membrane pumps that gets effected. I know you shouldn't get it into your blood ;Nailbiting
 

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Yes, I'll try to do more dips today. Colonies I'm sure has AEFW.
I haven't read enough to learn how the potassium is harmful for animals, it might be the cell membrane pumps that gets effected. I know you shouldn't get it into your blood ;Nailbiting

Why don’t you get in touch with underwater creations? They claim have the solution for AEFW...
Also please send the museum website link. You’ve awakened my curiosity. [emoji846]
 
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Why don’t you get in touch with underwater creations? They claim have the solution for AEFW...
Also please send the museum website link. You’ve awakened my curiosity. [emoji846]

I'm following their work thread. We'll see. I'm waitning on DNA-results from our Acropora flatworms(or waitning on a colleague to analyse the results, I'm not that into the DNA lab). My thought was to to reach out to them if it turns out we can ID the AEFW with DNA tests. To check if there's more then one species of flatworms in our tanks.
But in general I don't think in-tank treatments for reef tanks is the best option(I think it's hard to say it only is harmful for flatworms).


Absolutely! :)
Our homepage: https://www.sjofartsmuseetakvariet.se/
Official instagram: sjofartsmuseetakvariet
Inofficial instagram(my own): Gbgreeftank
 
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Took out an Acropora millepora colony today which had some bleached branches. Probably stressed by AEFW, low flow and space competition. Maybe something adding Sn to the water, we got some on our last Triton ICP test. We sent a new test today, so we'll see.
So another dip with KCl. I also tested to dip newly cut branches and glue them afterwards. I try to compare the survival after this routine between different dips.

This was the part of the tank before I took the colony out
IMG_6530.JPG


And this is the colony outside the tank. How did that fit in the tank among all those other corals?? :confused: It was placed in the middle of the photo.
IMG_6531.JPG


After the dip I found some large AEFW, but they were all mixed up with coral mucus so it was hard to tell how many. Not super many at least. That's why I suspect there's something more that's has stressed the coral. The flatworms were all totally still after 20 minutes dip, dead or stunned.

Here's the tests vial before going they're off to Triton lab. Thank you @Tim@Triton for the support! :)
IMG_6529.JPG
 
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Polyp polynomial: How many heads do you start with when buying zoas?

  • One head is enough to get started.

    Votes: 27 10.6%
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    Votes: 145 57.1%
  • 5 heads or more.

    Votes: 65 25.6%
  • Full colony.

    Votes: 10 3.9%
  • Other.

    Votes: 7 2.8%
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