Sump Level Issue
- Thread starter Amantijt
- Start date
OP
OP
As far as the drain in the back its going to be impossible to get a good pic of plus im currently at work. I did set it up identical to the image of a single durso drain the top is where the weirs are and its straight piped all 1 1/4"
Take some pics of the back when you get home.
Sump levels look ok in the last pic. Just need to figure out the durso part to see if we can come up with something to stop the level changes.
OP
OP
ill try its just pretty close to my wall lol and the level is higher now when i took this last night i was messing with it to get what i wanted outa it but woke up this morning all level across the three chambers and overflowing skimmer lol
No worries. Sometime there is just enough info in a crap picture to figure something out.
Definitely should have a Gate or Ball Valve on the overflow pipe coming into the pump, down low above the sump where it's easy to get to and adjust.. Personally I do not like them on return pipes with DC pumps as the DC's don't like restricted flow and you can simply adjust them up or down. If an old style pump and not a DC, then IMHO a valve is fine in return piping.
If the durso does not reduce size at the bulkhead, you may need to make the vent hole larger and insert a piece of small tubing into the hole and then run the tubing down so it is below the water in the pipe. I have had to do this on old Oceanic tanks with dursos in the past. Those tanks did not step down like most Marineland or Aqueon tanks with a durso.
Doing that would allow a siphon break and should smooth out the flow into the sump. It is very possible you are still pulling a siphon and that is why the return chamber level varies.
I will say, as this is my opinion, a valve on a single drain is a bad idea. Too much risk for an overflow of the DT. Single drains need the least amount of restrictions possible. I would also suggest you order a screen for the drain pipe. Keeps snails and such out.
something like this. Just get one that is the same size as your drain pipe.
Bulkhead Overflow Strainers
Prevents fish snails and other tank inhabitants from getting sucked into your plumbing, sump or pump and subsequent damage. Slip Bulkhead Strainers: ½” Slip Bulkhead Strainer ¾" Slip Bulkhead Strainer 1" Slip Bulkhead Strainer Thread Bulkhead Strainers: ¾” Thread Bulkhead Strainer...
www.bulkreefsupply.com
OP
OP
Im not quite understanding what you mean by this other than still pulling a syphon lol ive only been reefing for about a year now and this will be the first time i did plumbing myself so kinda lost at the moment lolIf the durso does not reduce size at the bulkhead, you may need to make the vent hole larger and insert a piece of small tubing into the hole and then run the tubing down so it is below the water in the pipe. I have had to do this on old Oceanic tanks with dursos in the past. Those tanks did not step down like most Marineland or Aqueon tanks with a durso.
Doing that would allow a siphon break and should smooth out the flow into the sump. It is very possible you are still pulling a siphon and that is why the return chamber level varies.
I will say, as this is my opinion, a valve on a single drain is a bad idea. Too much risk for an overflow of the DT. Single drains need the least amount of restrictions possible. I would also suggest you order a screen for the drain pipe. Keeps snails and such out.
something like this. Just get one that is the same size as your drain pipe.
Bulkhead Overflow Strainers
Prevents fish snails and other tank inhabitants from getting sucked into your plumbing, sump or pump and subsequent damage. Slip Bulkhead Strainers: ½” Slip Bulkhead Strainer ¾" Slip Bulkhead Strainer 1" Slip Bulkhead Strainer Thread Bulkhead Strainers: ¾” Thread Bulkhead Strainer...
OP
OP
I can say that the bulk head is screw in type through the bulkhead but the rest is 1 1/4" other than that there is zero difference through out the piping of the drain.
Is that a piece of vinyl tubing coming off of your return pump going into your PVC? If so, it appears to be kinked and that could be causing part of your problem anyway.
OP
OP
ive read and tried to comprehend what your saying lol. So my hole may be too small still that i drilled and i need a hose to push through the drilled hole once i make it bigger and put it into the water of the drain ? What i dont understand is what does the tubing have and effect on that would change the way its flowing?If the durso does not reduce size at the bulkhead, you may need to make the vent hole larger and insert a piece of small tubing into the hole and then run the tubing down so it is below the water in the pipe. I have had to do this on old Oceanic tanks with dursos in the past. Those tanks did not step down like most Marineland or Aqueon tanks with a durso.
Doing that would allow a siphon break and should smooth out the flow into the sump. It is very possible you are still pulling a siphon and that is why the return chamber level varies.
I will say, as this is my opinion, a valve on a single drain is a bad idea. Too much risk for an overflow of the DT. Single drains need the least amount of restrictions possible. I would also suggest you order a screen for the drain pipe. Keeps snails and such out.
something like this. Just get one that is the same size as your drain pipe.
Bulkhead Overflow Strainers
Prevents fish snails and other tank inhabitants from getting sucked into your plumbing, sump or pump and subsequent damage. Slip Bulkhead Strainers: ½” Slip Bulkhead Strainer ¾" Slip Bulkhead Strainer 1" Slip Bulkhead Strainer Thread Bulkhead Strainers: ¾” Thread Bulkhead Strainer...
The tubing allows air to enter the stream of water draining versus just being above the water draining. Air is pulled in by the water running past the end of the hose as well. It’s main goal is to break a siphon.
If there are 3 holes drilled as it looks, one drain and two return. Consider using one return and make a second emergency drain. Gate valve the main and you'll be silent.
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