Sump Flow Issues - Red Sea Max E260

gmiller12345

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 20, 2023
Messages
44
Reaction score
32
Location
Mission Viejo
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I set up a used Red Sea Max E260 a few months ago and the seller gave me the pipe kit for the sump (no sump). I have never had a sump before and have no experience with plumbing but I wanted to give it a try anyway.

Equipment
I found a good deal on a Trigger System Triton 26 v2 that fit nicely in the cabinet. I got a Tunze osmolator 3155 for my ATO and a matching Trigger Systems 10gal reservoir for my RODI water. I have a reef octopus 110 for my skimmer and a Reef Octopus Varios4 for my return pump. I have the stock pumps in each corner running and I put the closed off plugs in the bottom two corners as per the instruction from Red Sea.

Plumbing
I hooked up the Red Sea pipe kit following the instructions provided but quickly realized their pipes down in the cabinet don’t line up with the sump I bought so I went out and bought some pipe and connectors (unions, elbows, and a gate valve). I then learned that Red Sea uses metric plumbing so I ordered some metric to standard pvc unions to solve the problem. I did my best to get everything measured and lined up, but it came out a bit messy. I used the tubing that came with the Red Sea kit for the return pump instead of hard plumbing it.

Problem
I cannot get my return pump section to stay even enough for my ATO to do its job properly. It inevitably drains enough in the return section and refills via the ATO until there is so much water in the system that it comes down the overflow. I think the water coming down the pipe from the back of the DT is not keeping a consistent flow for some reason. Also, the water level changes in the back of the DT (where the pipes are) when I think it should be only changing in the return pump area.

What I Have Tried
I started by filling the DT up to the downflow pipe. Then I filled up the sump almost completely full (1” to the top). I left the gate valve completely open and turned my pump to speed setting 4. I then adjusted my gate valve slowly till the downpipe got quiet (full siphon). Then tried to make very small adjustments over a long period of time to get the return pump section water level consistent. I have also tried varying speeds on my return pump. It always ends the same way where my ATO overfills the system.

Any suggestions would be very much appreciated as I have been battling it this issue for a few months now. Thanks!!

IMG_7423.jpeg IMG_7424.jpeg IMG_7425.jpeg IMG_7427.jpeg IMG_7428.jpeg
 

Mikeltee

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 15, 2020
Messages
1,563
Reaction score
1,257
Location
Fishers, IN
Rating - 50%
1   1   0
Sounds like you need to open that gate valve. I have no experience with that type of drain. I have the one with a 90 on the top of the overflow with a hole at the top. It's dead silent and it doesn't need to be tuned. You have plenty of room in your overflow for it if you are unable to tune what you got. Plenty of people run your style of overflow so it can probably be tuned correctly. Here's a link to the durso. They are simple to make. https://www.dursostandpipes.com/
 

banger32

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 23, 2019
Messages
400
Reaction score
294
Location
Bradenton
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I'm not sure I'm no expert but I have the 170e and I hate it no matter how many times I adjust that valve the level never stays where I want it anyway I think that valve belongs on the end at least that's how mine is
 

banger32

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 23, 2019
Messages
400
Reaction score
294
Location
Bradenton
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
So basically you are adjusting a valve that has no water going in it your middle pipe is emergency overflow so all the water is going down the end pipe and you have no way to control it
 
OP
OP
G

gmiller12345

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 20, 2023
Messages
44
Reaction score
32
Location
Mission Viejo
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Apologies, the center pipe is the overflow, where I repurposed the Red Sea gate valve and pipe since it worked nicely for this sump (no additional metric to standard unions needed). The down pipe (right most) and the gate valve I am adjusting has the red handle. The overflow valve (Red Sea one) is completely open.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7424.jpeg
    IMG_7424.jpeg
    199.8 KB · Views: 52

banger32

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 23, 2019
Messages
400
Reaction score
294
Location
Bradenton
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Oh ok I see now. It's still the worst setup I ever used I want to change the piping completely it's just to much of a pain
 

Quintin

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 31, 2023
Messages
171
Reaction score
227
Location
Lake Mary
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Yup, open the gate valve fully, start the pump and dial it in. Mines been rock solid since dialed in and water remains at a constant level.

IMG_0827.jpeg
 

Pvtgloss

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 7, 2022
Messages
2,266
Reaction score
3,372
Location
Asheville
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
@gmiller12345

I have a e170 with sump. Same thing happened to me. I lost a lot of sleep over it. My LFS suggested closing the valve until there's a small trickle down emergency pipe. It worked like a charm. Been stable ever since and that was almost 2 years ago.
 
OP
OP
G

gmiller12345

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 20, 2023
Messages
44
Reaction score
32
Location
Mission Viejo
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
@gmiller12345

I have a e170 with sump. Same thing happened to me. I lost a lot of sleep over it. My LFS suggested closing the valve until there's a small trickle down emergency pipe. It worked like a charm. Been stable ever since and that was almost 2 years ago.
Thanks! I will give that a try. Do you still use the stock pumps in the DT overflow? I noticed with those on it lowers the water level in the overflow enough to where I can’t get the water level high enough to the emergency overflow (without putting too much water in the system so when return pump goes off the sump over flows).
 

Pvtgloss

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 7, 2022
Messages
2,266
Reaction score
3,372
Location
Asheville
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Thanks! I will give that a try. Do you still use the stock pumps in the DT overflow? I noticed with those on it lowers the water level in the overflow enough to where I can’t get the water level high enough to the emergency overflow (without putting too much water in the system so when return pump goes off the sump over flows).
I'm not an expert but this is what worked for me. I have a trigger system sump, red sea plumbing and a cor 15 cranking pretty good. I did modify my drain pipe with a metric-to-standard union, gate valve and pipe to sump. I have the open flow grill installed.
Definitely only add enough water that your sump can handle when the pump is off. From there close your valve slowly until your water reaches the emergency valve.
Something that also worked for me was getting a pvc cap and drilling holes in it to raise my drain pipe to narrow the gap between the drain pipe and emergency pipe.
Drains with pump on
20231217_223626.jpg

Drains with pump off
20231217_224001.jpg
 
OP
OP
G

gmiller12345

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 20, 2023
Messages
44
Reaction score
32
Location
Mission Viejo
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Thanks to everyone who replied!! Finally got it locked in by letting it get right to the overflow pipe as recommended. ATO properly filling for evaporation and no water level issues in the overflow. Been steady for two days now :)
 

dadnjesse

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 9, 2019
Messages
1,683
Reaction score
1,216
Location
New Hampshire
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Glad you got it running. I would turn the sump around or change the return down pipe to the left side if possible to shorten the length of that pipe. Also if you could change the 90's to 2 45's the water would flow with less resistence.
 
Back
Top