Stranger things - Glass hermits

Reef and Dive

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So it’s about time I share some stuff I’ve been doing here…

F56524F5-2812-4A0F-83ED-091BE6DB882A.jpeg


02F7890A-5885-4752-B9A4-3FF03699B4DF.jpeg


This is far from a success, but I’m pretty sure improving.

I have a DT that is not included in this process.

I have a nano that sits in my son’s bedroom and that amazes him (2yo).

Some months ago I decided to try to make some custom hermit shells. After some research I decided to go on with epoxy resin.

To do so I needed:

1 - to make some shell models in polymer clay and / or epoxy mass (durepox)

2 - to make sillicon molds

3 - to make the epoxy resin copies

4 - to let the new shells cure before adding to the tank (I learned the bad way this is EXTREMELY important)

So I’ll describe this process I’ve done.

I used epoxy mass and polymer clay for this.

The first models I made manually the shells, but over the time I learned the hermits like pretty perfect interiors, with a perfect spiral, and did not like much my first non spiral interiors. It seems reasonable because it maches perfectly their natural anatomy, that was made to have this counter-clockwise turn.

Another problem, this shells would need a negative buoyancy but also would need to be light to carry, after tests with different resins this eas achieved with the cristal epoxy resin made by Redelease in Brazil.

The fist ones were accepted but soon they changed again, the interior was not long enough, not spiral, not comfortable:

38E2F753-0B55-49D5-9183-38E8A34CEAF6.jpeg

671C66FE-42C4-4C5A-B4AB-7871F65E72A7.jpeg


So I tried to make exact copies of their interior (they care a lot about the interior and not so much about the external part).

Then I took different shells to copy thir internal part with sillicon. It was great because the sillicon fuses with the mold pretty easy.

DB4910D4-ED54-4021-A6F4-F2538A0A36BF.jpeg


C865AC9F-3D06-4EED-BCC8-F72A6629EBBD.jpeg


To do this perfectly I had to create an opening at the end of the shell so the air dif not keep trapped inside it preventing me to get a long interior…

1C965C38-4743-441C-AACA-BCE75E8FEFEB.jpeg

I also learned 2 extra things:

Turbo shells interior are easy to copy but they have a small hole at the bottom that I had to cover otherwise the sillicon would go there making the un-molding process near impossible. The second thing was that the nish shells had a hole in the internal part, not making perfectly isolated tunnels, therefore making it nearly impossible to un-mold, so I kept going only with the turbos.

DC263193-22E0-44C3-9991-660CA41C7098.jpeg


Then I created and have been doing many types of exteriors:

3F7060DE-CF7E-48FC-B43C-F08808D57E36.jpeg


FFB8586B-5062-4B46-BFDB-48194530F7F3.jpeg

DC55FA10-C77B-44E5-9F6C-CAB8A95EEB2F.jpeg


Then the next part was to create the sillicon mold, I tried 2 part molds, but they did not work well to me because of the very small parts…

FC657310-750A-4C09-8693-AF7D8B0C7881.jpeg


So doing a 1 part mold made much better copies on resin.

7B2A5D1C-D764-4B48-BBDC-0C59759C57AA.jpeg


Then I cut these molds halfway to remove the model and created small openings to introduce the liquid resin before it became solid.

7F8C4074-73F0-4647-8D21-67E575C63EEF.jpeg


For the resin removing bubbles seemed pretty important, for this it was better to have more of the extensions of the model pointing downwards. When pointing upwards many times air was trapped inside preventing the resin to copy that part.

Then after drying for 24h I removed the resin models.

8A129558-C9CD-4F7B-B591-B7FD46A03744.jpeg


Then, this was VERY IMPORTANT, I let the resin cure for 7 days, then let it inside ethanol 70% solution for 2 days, then on RODI water for 7 days.

At one time I added some models before curing and it nearly crashed that small nano tank, but after doing it more carefully I did not notice any more problems. The resin curing process releases toxic gases on the first days.

Now I keep doing this with new models and the hermits are absolutely loving the shells. They even fight for them!

32F8AF9D-4D73-4036-8895-7A86E480E994.jpeg


For the models that have been copied I painted just to keep them colorfu

B678593B-B636-45BE-A96C-F79E7B1E9912.jpeg


02A2389E-92A6-464D-B5F2-DBC65673C9D9.jpeg





Let me say to anyone who reads this post:

THIS IS JUST A DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS I’M USING WITH THE TROUBLES AND MISTAKES I’VE BEEN TO. I’VE BEEN ASKED TO DESCRIBE HOW I MADE IT. THIS IS NOT A POST FOR PEOPLE STIMULATING ANYONE TO COPY ME, OK? THERE ARE RISKS THAT I’M NOT 100% AWARE OF AT THE MOMENT.
 
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Reef and Dive

Reef and Dive

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Once they're tried & tested long term i think you will have a potential niche for yourself. Creative and labor intensive- good work!
thanks. But I honestly did not have any intentions to do this commercially…
 
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dee_es

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So it’s about time I share some stuff I’ve been doing here…

View attachment 2722169

View attachment 2722170

This is far from a success, but I’m pretty sure improving.

I have a DT that is not included in this process.

I have a nano that sits in my son’s bedroom and that amazes him (2yo).

Some months ago I decided to try to make some custom hermit shells. After some research I decided to go on with epoxy resin.

To do so I needed:

1 - to make some shell models in polymer clay and / or epoxy mass (durepox)

2 - to make sillicon molds

3 - to make the epoxy resin copies

4 - to let the new shells cure before adding to the tank (I learned the bad way this is EXTREMELY important)

So I’ll describe this process I’ve done.

I used epoxy mass and polymer clay for this.

The first models I made manually the shells, but over the time I learned the hermits like pretty perfect interiors, with a perfect spiral, and did not like much my first non spiral interiors. It seems reasonable because it maches perfectly their natural anatomy, that was made to have this counter-clockwise turn.

Another problem, this shells would need a negative buoyancy but also would need to be light to carry, after tests with different resins this eas achieved with the cristal epoxy resin made by Redelease in Brazil.

The fist ones were accepted but soon they changed again, the interior was not long enough, not spiral, not comfortable:

View attachment 2722176
View attachment 2722177

So I tried to make exact copies of their interior (they care a lot about the interior and not so much about the external part).

Then I took different shells to copy thir internal part with sillicon. It was great because the sillicon fuses with the mold pretty easy.

View attachment 2722178

View attachment 2722174

To do this perfectly I had to create an opening at the end of the shell so the air dif not keep trapped inside it preventing me to get a long interior…

View attachment 2722180
I also learned 2 extra things:

Turbo shells interior are easy to copy but they have a small hole at the bottom that I had to cover otherwise the sillicon would go there making the un-molding process near impossible. The second thing was that the nish shells had a hole in the internal part, not making perfectly isolated tunnels, therefore making it nearly impossible to un-mold, so I kept going only with the turbos.

View attachment 2722179

Then I created and have been doing many types of exteriors:

View attachment 2722173

View attachment 2722182
View attachment 2722183

Then the next part was to create the sillicon mold, I tried 2 part molds, but they did not work well to me because of the very small parts…

View attachment 2722184

So doing a 1 part mold made much better copies on resin.

View attachment 2722171

Then I cut these molds halfway to remove the model and created small openings to introduce the liquid resin before it became solid.

View attachment 2722175

For the resin removing bubbles seemed pretty important, for this it was better to have more of the extensions of the model pointing downwards. When pointing upwards many times air was trapped inside preventing the resin to copy that part.

Then after drying for 24h I removed the resin models.

View attachment 2722187

Then, this was VERY IMPORTANT, I let the resin cure for 7 days, then let it inside ethanol 70% solution for 2 days, then on RODI water for 7 days.

At one time I added some models before curing and it nearly crashed that small nano tank, but after doing it more carefully I did not notice any more problems. The resin curing process releases toxic gases on the first days.

Now I keep doing this with new models and the hermits are absolutely loving the shells. They even fight for them!

View attachment 2722172

For the models that have been copied I painted just to keep them colorfu

View attachment 2722186

View attachment 2722185




Let me say to anyone who reads this post:

THIS IS JUST A DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS I’M USING WITH THE TROUBLES AND MISTAKES I’VE BEEN TO. I’VE BEEN ASKED TO DESCRIBE HOW I MADE IT. THIS IS NOT A POST FOR PEOPLE STIMULATING ANYONE TO COPY ME, OK? THERE ARE RISKS THAT I’M NOT 100% AWARE OF AT THE MOMENT.
WOWOWOWOWOWOW!!!!!!
I love your creativity and thought process! If I had hermits, I would love to see them in clear shells so that they could be observed!
Well done and thank you for sharing!
 
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Karen00

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Very nice!!

I just saw a story about this not long ago. I think the gal was in Japan that did this. If I remember correctly she was an art student. She did a whole bunch of clear shells for hermits and then photographed them. It was quite spectacular but very labour intensive. I think she ran into similar issues as you such as finding the right molding process, creating the correct interiors for the hermits, etc.
 
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Reef and Dive

Reef and Dive

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Very nice!!

I just saw a story about this not long ago. I think the gal was in Japan that did this. If I remember correctly she was an art student. She did a whole bunch of clear shells for hermits and then photographed them. It was quite spectacular but very labour intensive. I think she ran into similar issues as you such as finding the right molding process, creating the correct interiors for the hermits, etc.
Yeah… it was not easy…

Right now I’m trying some fluorescent shells, they are for weeks inside RODI but I did not have the guts to test in the tank yet…

DF79623E-8E7B-4B2C-B649-1F7771517283.jpeg

4D0FE216-C5BF-413C-B140-0F51C9D2F0BD.jpeg
 
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Reef and Dive

Reef and Dive

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Watching and I would totally buy a few of those from you if you ever had a few spares!!! Thanks for sharing.
Hahaha cool. It is sooo much work for them that I just hope someone does the same idea… I do not have talent to sell things…
 

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Yeah… it was not easy…

Right now I’m trying some fluorescent shells, they are for weeks inside RODI but I did not have the guts to test in the tank yet…

View attachment 2734643
View attachment 2734644
Those are beautiful! Ya, I'm always afraid of stuff going into my saltwater tank. Stuff that's fine in freshwater can easily react/corrode in saltwater. You could always put them in a bowl of saltwater for a month and see what happens. If you see the water turn colour then it might not be a good idea to put them in your tank. :) I guess there's still the possibility of invisible toxins but I think that would go hand in hand with seeing the colour Leach into the water. Keep us updated on these. :)
 
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