SPS are melting before my eyes

[Perry]

On top of the heater issue, seems like lots of things were being changed, salinity fluctuation, temp fluctuation, which invariably would have changed the Alkalinity slightly too, up and down due to salinity fluctuations. Then, we change massive amounts of water, then add carbon, and wallah, we are now sending our corals and inhabitants on a roller coaster ride. Knee-jerk reaction will in fact cause further loss, sometimes when rtn begins, for whatever reason, it becomes a plague, moving from coral to coral. I have experienced it, and for no understandable reason. I would most certainly pull the heater, and run carbon, albeit, per recommendations and introduction via reactor on slow effluent, ramping as you observe coral polyps, being my # 1 indicator. Suspend any dosing, calcium reactor, or kalkwasser, likely your corals will not be using, thus an increase in main minerals. You may want to adjust the photo period and intensity, as this may too cause the corals further stress. When things go wrong, or when we take on new products, it is always wise to do so one at a time, trying to isolate and get to the root cause, that or seeing how new changes are impacting color, growth, and pe. Try and stabilize the system, ensuring big 3 being stable, as well salinity and temp. I would 100% do an ICP analysis. My thoughts
Fingers crossed for your reef!

 

[ScottB]

Beautiful tank, so sorry this is happening. Agree with most of the suggestions. With carbon and poly running, I am not sure I would risk the stress of moving everything to another tank.

Instead, I would frag what remains of affected corals and move the frags over to the 40 and see if they settle. Rip out the dead stuff and inspect for pests.

What is the pattern of tissue loss on each acro? Top to bottom or bottom to top? Is it consistent or random? Any other species reacting badly?

One thing puzzled me, you came up short on WC water, dumped in some RO, then tested at 1.027? I would recalibrate the refractometer and get a second measure from another device. Being off by that amount is no big deal, but a couple more points adds stress. I'd also check your newly mixed salt water for excessive ALK. What salt? New bucket?

All of us in this for a long time have had a bewildering rough patch with acropora. And I personally start thinking it was something coincident with a very recent activity. But upon reflection, and looking back through my logs, I tend to find other potential factors that "set the stage" for RTN/STN. Fading pH... slight increase in temp... ALK consumption dropping or not increasing.. exhausted DI resin... falling nutrient. Individually, they are harmless. But put a couple together, over time, and all of the sudden my acros have had enough. (except aussie green slimers of course.)

Again, so sorry. Damage control and few, gentle, adjustments is where my head would be.

 

[Graffiti Spot]

Heater problems like that I normally see corals go pale. You should really post better pics of the specific Cora’s in question.

 

[Admann]

If the heater was the brand I think it is, just speculating, when it fails or overheats as is your case, past failures have proven not much hope of recovery and outright tank crashes . The chemicals released are hard to remove without a lot of time, and may never go away as they are not biologically degraded. Rock, sand and every surface is exposed and will only let go of those contaminants when something makes them.
I do not use that brand anymore. The brand I use now is Finnex. Dropped it in, plugged it in, didn't adjust it. Comes on at 77.1 off at 78.1.
I wish you all the luck in the world, but there may be a point of diminishing return on your effort, time and finances

 

[Heabel7]

Some are receding from the bottom (most). Others are near the tips. Kinda random I would say. Some zoas look bad almost melting, frogspawn not fully open, leather ok, lobo ok all monti’s seem to be good, fish,snail, crabs and fauna going strong All frags on rack have less extension but are in good shape so far. I’ll post some pics when I get home.

It was 1.027 before I added the gallon of RODI. After it was still 1.027. With water changes it looks to be back at 1.026.

It’s crazy how fast it goes. Last night 2 more were showing a hint of flesh gone. This morning 25% of flesh was gone. Thinking 75% by the time I get home .

 

[SeaDweller]

I'd say it's the heater and the TDS issue.

I love the Italian made Aqueon Pros, ran three of them in my current tank until Feb of this year. They ran for 3 years without an issue. I bought many of them in fact, but I read many people having issues of them blowing up and it worried me. I changed 3 x 250W out for 2 x 500W finnex; however, when I was using the Pros they were on a controller so I don't know if that helped prolong their lives?

I'm kinda on the fence about changing them out every 2 years or so, just for peace of mind.

 

[Heabel7]

Montipora are all fine so far, bubble tip anemones have never looked better. More sps are looking bad

 

[ScottB]

I'd say it's the heater and the TDS issue.

I love the Italian made Aqueon Pros, ran three of them in my current tank until Feb of this year. They ran for 3 years without an issue. I bought many of them in fact, but I read many people having issues of them blowing up and it worried me. I changed 3 x 250W out for 2 x 500W finnex; however, when I was using the Pros they were on a controller so I don't know if that helped prolong their lives?

I'm kinda on the fence about changing them out every 2 years or so, just for peace of mind.

I've been a big fan of the Aqueon Pros also for quite while getting 2-3 years with few troubles. With the long warranty, I've just been relying on the controllers which I agree seem to help and otherwise replacing under warranty.

Moral: with a controller I trust them and (with generous 3 yr warranty) they are great value for money.Get a controller.

 

[Brew12]

If you dont mind doing the 40br idea, go for it
otherwise,

I'd run lots of carbon and and polyfilter, I'd also probably do a decent size water change.

Sorry to hear about the corals, hope everything else pulls through for you.

I'm sorry about the issues, but this is exactly what I would do. Throw away the heater, run as much GAC as possible, and add polyfilters.

 

[Heabel7]

Still going south. I have 3 frags of acro on my frag rack that have not spewed their guys yet but have lost most of their color and polys barely extended. My 2 oldest and largest colonies still kicking but some of the polys are starting to expel their zooxanthellae. Montipora still unaffected (seems odd to me). Started a little 10 gallon tank. Most of the frags died. They were so weak I’m not surprised, but it was worth a shot. ICP test will be sent out today.

Carbon still going
Poly still runny
Reduced lighting schedule going

Can I run too much carbon or should I try putting a large amount of rox in a reactor?

 

[Juan Andrés Botero R]

I had a similar situation and solved with 10days or more of 10% water changes. I definitely don’t use Carbon with SPS, my experience is adverse, even with a low dosage of .8gr per galón, neither polifilter, Just the water change solved the problem!, at the second or third water change I notice a progressive recovery. Replace the heater!

 

[Heabel7]

Heater was gone day 1. Have done 5 15% water changes thus far. Nothing doing better as of yet

 

[C. Eymann]

Still going south. I have 3 frags of acro on my frag rack that have not spewed their guys yet but have lost most of their color and polys barely extended. My 2 oldest and largest colonies still kicking but some of the polys are starting to expel their zooxanthellae. Montipora still unaffected (seems odd to me). Started a little 10 gallon tank. Most of the frags died. They were so weak I’m not surprised, but it was worth a shot. ICP test will be sent out today.

Carbon still going
Poly still runny
Reduced lighting schedule going

Can I run too much carbon or should I try putting a large amount of rox in a reactor?

Be careful with ROX "super" carbon, while I have used quite a bit of it esp when doing flatworm treatments, I have heard others have had bad experiences if using too much.


I'm very sorry to hear things haven't turned the corner for the best yet. Good call on the reduced lighting, I'd also be watching NO3 and PO4, start feeding more if too low, also if using an automated doser / calcium reactor etc etc. You will need to dial that back as well due to the unhappy corals reduction in calcification, otherwise you will see those #s swell.

I'd just try to keep everything as stable as possible at this point.

Interested what the ICP results will be, again, hope things turn up for the tank soon.

 

[Heabel7]

Be careful with ROX "super" carbon, while I have used quite a bit of it esp when doing flatworm treatments, I have heard others have had bad experiences if using too much.


I'm very sorry to hear things haven't turned the corner for the best yet. Good call on the reduced lighting, I'd also be watching NO3 and PO4, start feeding more if too low, also if using an automated doser / calcium reactor etc etc. You will need to dial that back as well due to the unhappy corals reduction in calcification, otherwise you will see those #s swell.

I'd just try to keep everything as stable as possible at this point.

Interested what the ICP results will be, again, hope things turn up for the tank soon.

I have been monitoring alk and phosphate with little changes. I’ll check nitrates when I get home. Thinking all the water changes keeping in check.

Right now coming home just makes me sad. “Wonder what’s going to have melted in the last 10hours”

I’ll post my ICP when I get it.

 

[Graffiti Spot]

Sorry to hear, at this point though progress is when things stop showing necrosis. I think the water changes and just a little carbon are what’s going to be the answer, stability is the main thing that corals showing signs of stress need to heal. Defiantly do NOT fill the reactor with rox though. I only use a small amount in a bag and although I have been able to use a lot more over time just going big all at once can pale corals easily if not worst in some tanks.

 

[Ashish Patel]

All other not looking happy either. Not full extension. Some spas actually are closed. Just a few heads

Sorry to hear that, It may be too late for all our corals to recover but I think some should regain once things get to a stable place. corals are definitely stressed out and making a few 30% waterchanges will help. There is a good waterchange calculator on RC and it will let you know how many waterchanges are needed before you are close to 100% pure. The problem with SPS is they have a delayed reaction to any changes so they will wait before showing us. You'll have to get the tank stable and just wait and do you best to not do too much

 

[Terri Caton]

Curious, what did your Polyfilter show? Color?

 

[Terri Caton]

I had a similar situation and solved with 10days or more of 10% water changes. I definitely don’t use Carbon with SPS, my experience is adverse, even with a low dosage of .8gr per galón, neither polifilter, Just the water change solved the problem!, at the second or third water change I notice a progressive recovery. Replace the heater!

I had a strange toxin thing happen a few months ago. Polyfilter, extra carbon and three 85% water changes over the course of 2 weeks finally halted it.

So sorry about your tank. It's devastating.

 

[Heabel7]

Curious, what did your Polyfilter show? Color?

Well darn. Until you mentions color change. I run poly in my sock to catch extra materials. I did not realize it was specific to a special material. “Just learned something new today”. Having one shipped now. Won’t hurt at this point. Sps just keep dying. It has slowed but definitely not stopped. The strongest are now failing. And the brown outs are losing flesh slower.

 

[Silver14SS]

Here's some more info on the colors if you haven't seen this yet

Poly Filter Chemical Filter Media Pads: What YOU Need to Know

Poly Filter cut-to-fit pads absorb and adsorb waste, toxins, and medications. They even change color to let you know what type of contaminates were removed.

blog.marinedepot.com