Selecting a Halide Ballast

[Chibils]

Hello all,
I'm looking to get back into the hobby, but life is in my way, so I've been living vicariously through all of your fish pics and coral growth shots. I'm still a ways out from startup, but I enjoy mapping out the equipment and livestock I would like to keep when I am able. The planning is half the fun, eh? I am married to the idea of halides (for multiple reasons, one of which is that I have most of the pieces on hand) - but I would need to purchase ballasts. It's been a long time since I had to do the jigsaw puzzle of figuring out which ballasts and which bulbs play well together, etc., so I'm looking for advice. I believe some of the products below have been discontinued, but I have either found a vendor for them or have them in my garage from when I broke down my previous build.

The contenders are, in no particular order:

• CoralVue LuXcore
  • 250w, 250w HQI, 400w, 400w Super Lumens modes
  • $174.00
• Reef Brite Reef Tech
  • 250w only - not selectable wattage
  • dimmable (0/33/67/100%), 1-10v controllable, microprocessor-monitored for performance
  • $171.00
• IceCap Selectable Wattage
  • 250w, 250w HQI, 400w, 400w Super Lumens modes
  • $164.00
• Hamilton M80
  • 250w - not selectable wattage
  • has a long track record of producing great-looking aquariums
  • $149.00

I'd be driving 2 x 250w SE/mogul lamps in Lumenbright Mini reflectors. I like a very "white" 10-14k color after supplements, which leaves me with several choices:

• very yellow/white like the Iwasaki 6,500k, Reef Brite 6,700k and T5/LED supplements
• white with the Reef Brite 10,000k, Hamilton 10,000k, Blueline 10,000k, SPS 10,000K, or Giesemann 12,500k
• white-blue with the Hamilton 14,000k, Blueline 14,000k, Giesemann 14,500k, or Reef Brite 14,000k
• the ever-popular Radium 20,000K (either M80 or 250w "HQI" setting)

I know the Radium needs to be run on an M80 to get the intended color and PAR output, and that it looks dim and blue otherwise. It's also my understanding that the HQI/Super Lumens feature replicates that? If so, I really prefer the benefits of selectable wattage e-ballasts. My goal for my next build is SPS, and I want the option to switch to 400w (or back) if desired/needed. Normally I would not consider anything that has a "20k" in the name, but I have heard that the Radium runs a nice crisp white-blue on an M80 or overdriven ballast. If this is true, any of the ballasts above seem like they will work and I may get away without adding T5s or LEDs. The Reef Brites trade versatility for controllability - is that worth considering? The ability to dim halides and connect them to a controller is pretty temptiong - but is it worth giving up the HQI mode or the 400w options? Is there anything I'm missing? And if the "HQI"/"Super Lumens" settings don't replicate the way a mag ballast drives bulbs, then is it worth giving up the benefits of an e-ballast for the Hamilton M80?

 

[Bpb]

If I were in your shoes I’d get the luxcore switchables and run 250 watt Hamilton 10k bulbs with blue supplements. It’s going to be a ridiculous amount of par on those reflectors. They’re extremely focused. What they really pull off on depth punch they lack in spread laterally. At 15” above a 24” deep tank I was getting 400+ par on the sandbed below the bulbs but under 200 at a 12” radius par at the surface well in the thousands. 10k bulbs will be even higher. Mount them in the stratosphere. Those reflectors really shine on a 30” tank depth, even with only 250 watt bulbs

 

[Chibils]

It’s going to be a ridiculous amount of par on those reflectors. They’re extremely focused.

That's what I hear - I actually really wish I had gotten the standard Lumenbrights when they were available, because I really like wide tanks and am meh on deep tanks. My first and last tank was a 90 and I decided that I'd never again own a tank that was deeper than it was wide. I was planning something like an IM Nuvo EXT 75 to take advantage of the Minis I have - 36 x 24 x 20. The pendants side by side cover a 32 x 16 area, so I do expect to have a hot spot from front to back, but that's where supplementals come in. At 20" depth it sounds like I can mount the lights 12-16" up and not worry about PAR.

I’d get the luxcore switchables and run 250 watt Hamilton 10k bulbs

Can I ask why that combo? As far as I can tell they're the same as the IceCaps but a few bucks more. I know the LuXcores have been around a long time and I was thinking of picking them - just curious about your reasoning. Also curious about the Hamilton lamps. I've been out of the hobby for several years now but it's always been my impression that Hamilton bulbs are "second tier" when compared to top bulbs like ReefLux, Ushio, and Aqua Medic (Aqualine Buschke). Of course two of those are gone and the third doesn't make the bulb I want (250w SE 14,000k) so maybe Hamilton is just as competitive. I was eyeing the Blueline and SPS, even Radium over the Hamilton.

But I've seen you around here and the SPS board enough to respect your advice - thank you.

 

[X-37B]

Here is my 120, 4x2x2.
Lumen brite mini's 250 watt de phoenix 14k on m80 ballast.
Switched about 1 month ago from 8T5's.
Crisp white with a hint of blue.
New growth has begun already.
I love the look.

 

[Chibils]

Here is my 120, 4x2x2.
Lumen brite mini's 250 watt de phoenix 14k on m80 ballast.
Switched about 1 month ago from 8T5's.
Crisp white with a hint of blue.
New growth has begun already.
I love the look.

Would you say your pictures are accurate to the real life colors, or more blue? Thanks for posting!

 

[X-37B]

Would you say your pictures are accurate to the real life colors, or more blue? Thanks for posting!

They are actually whiter than the pics in person. It just does not come through that way on the phone.
Every pic I take has that blue haze look to it.
It looks almost exactly like this.
These pics are with the lights off but are what the tank looks like when they are on.
Color is spot on.

 

[Chibils]

I love it! Color is so natural - like I just stuck my head under the water!

 

[X-37B]

I love it! Color is so natural - like I just stuck my head under the water!

I ran T5's with 4b+ and 4c+ and the 14k look is much better too me.
I do not have par reading but I went from 9hrs full on T5's to 9hrs full on MH's with no issues.
Also no difference in tank temp either as many will elude to.

 

[X-37B]

One other thing to research is the 250 watt de lamps on m80 ballast put out almost the same par as single ended 400 watt lamps if you run the lumen bright reflectors.
Less heat and energy with the 250's.
I will look for the article on it.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-06/review/index.php

 

[Chibils]

I appreciate that, and my favorite bulb (Ushio 14k) is still made in DE, but the sockets I have are for mogul lamps. Is it as simple as getting DE sockets for the reflectors? Is it even possible to convert it?

 

[X-37B]

I appreciate that, and my favorite bulb (Ushio 14k) is still made in DE, but the sockets I have are for mogul lamps. Is it as simple as getting DE sockets for the reflectors? Is it even possible to convert it?

You would need new lumen bright reflectors to run de lamps.
Giesemann and ushio make quality single ended bulbs that would work since you already have lumen brights

The giesemann 17.5 k is whiter than the 14k.
Here is a 150 watt on my 18" cubed nano 3 years ago.
It is whiter than the pic in person.

 

[Chibils]

You would need new lumen bright reflectors to run de lamps.

That is what I figured.

Unfortunately, Ushio no longer makes the 250w SE 14,000k - my favorite bulb. I could jump up to 400w with a selectable ballast, but I worry that would cook the whole tank with how focused those reflectors are.

 

[Bpb]

That's what I hear - I actually really wish I had gotten the standard Lumenbrights when they were available, because I really like wide tanks and am meh on deep tanks. My first and last tank was a 90 and I decided that I'd never again own a tank that was deeper than it was wide. I was planning something like an IM Nuvo EXT 75 to take advantage of the Minis I have - 36 x 24 x 20. The pendants side by side cover a 32 x 16 area, so I do expect to have a hot spot from front to back, but that's where supplementals come in. At 20" depth it sounds like I can mount the lights 12-16" up and not worry about PAR.

Can I ask why that combo? As far as I can tell they're the same as the IceCaps but a few bucks more. I know the LuXcores have been around a long time and I was thinking of picking them - just curious about your reasoning. Also curious about the Hamilton lamps. I've been out of the hobby for several years now but it's always been my impression that Hamilton bulbs are "second tier" when compared to top bulbs like ReefLux, Ushio, and Aqua Medic (Aqualine Buschke). Of course two of those are gone and the third doesn't make the bulb I want (250w SE 14,000k) so maybe Hamilton is just as competitive. I was eyeing the Blueline and SPS, even Radium over the Hamilton.

But I've seen you around here and the SPS board enough to respect your advice - thank you.

I’ll say the inner workings of the ballast are far beyond my scope so I couldn’t say the difference between the ice cap and the coralvue. They may well be sourced from the same components. I suppose at the end of the day a manually switchable 250-400 watt electronic ballast without a fan would be my preference on halide ballasts. Perhaps regardless of brand. Whichever carries the better warranty and more reputable service dept, should something go wrong.

I am recently reading a few comments about Hamilton gear, bulbs especially being second tier. I’ll be honest, I didn’t hear that until I had used them for a couple years, and I was always happy with them. Unfortunately I entered the hobby shortly
Before the good Ushios, reeflux, and aquaconnect bulbs all went belly up so I
Never had the chance to try or even see those in person. I’ve used radiums, Hamilton, and xm bulbs just before they shut down. Never had any complaints myself but I can’t really comment on the nuances that separate them from the presently available rebranding of the AB bulbs like the giesemanns. Never personally used Phoenix bulbs but have seen them in person and didn’t find them to look appreciably different from any of the other 20k bulbs I’ve tried. So, take that for what it’s worth.

Either way I’d strongly recommend three things

Use a par meter

Don’t obsess over getting the highest output bulbs you can find since your tank is fairly shallow. If you went radiums, you won’t really see drastic benefits of the extra 100-200 par an m80 ballast may bring. Personal opinion there

Hang the pendants as high as you can stand. They’re going to have tremendous downward punch. You’ll want to soften the spotlight effect and give yourself more manageable par levels.

 

[X-37B]

That is what I figured.

Unfortunately, Ushio no longer makes the 250w SE 14,000k - my favorite bulb. I could jump up to 400w with a selectable ballast, but I worry that would cook the whole tank with how focused those reflectors are.

Ushio still makes a 14k 250 watt mogal/ single ened bulb.
Not sure if its the same as the one you used.
Brs has them in stock.

 

[Chibils]

Either way I’d strongly recommend three things

Use a par meter

Don’t obsess over getting the highest output bulbs you can find since your tank is fairly shallow. If you went radiums, you won’t really see drastic benefits of the extra 100-200 par an m80 ballast may bring. Personal opinion there

Hang the pendants as high as you can stand. They’re going to have tremendous downward punch. You’ll want to soften the spotlight effect and give yourself more manageable par levels.

Thank you - this is great advice. I plan to borrow a PAR meter from the club when I get set up. I'm also not really concerned about the output too much, as I figure I'll have plenty of PAR and if not I could always upgrade to 400w . I guess what I was trying to get at is that I've heard it said over and over again that Radiums were designed to work on M80 ballasts and they look terrible without that. I'd also heard that using the HQI setting recreates the effect of running a Radium on a magnetic ballast - I'd hate to find out that I love the way a Radium looks but I'd need new ballasts to run them. The LuXcores look promising. CoralVue has always had good support. And re: reflectors, my living room has vaulted ceilings so I can hang them as high as needed.

 

[Chibils]

Ushio still makes a 14k 250 watt mogal/ single ened bulb.
Not sure if its the same as the one you used.
Brs has them in stock.

Unfortunately there's only 175w and 400w in mogul. I've been unable to locate another vendor who stocks them. Ushio's website does not list them as discontinued, but they've been removed from BRS and other websites. I may try to contact Ushio and see if I can direct order, assuming they're still manufacturing them.

 

[Chibils]

It looks like LuXcores/IceCaps have it unless anyone else has anything to say. (stealth bump )

It doesn't seem that bulb compatability (other than Radium) on e-ballasts is an issue?

 

[Bpb]

Correct. There are some purists on here who are very knowledgeable and married to European ballasts. But I’m honestly just not convinced for all intents and purposes you’d find any difference in performance beyond something negligible. Personal opinion. I’d even run radiums on hqi setting over using an m80. They just get way too hot. Again. Personal opinion. Radiums on an m80 are pretty though