Scott's First Tank - IM Nuvo 30L AIO

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ScottyDoesntKnow

ScottyDoesntKnow

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No just keep it stable where it is and worry about that later.
Just my opinion I would use the Bio-Spira on the qt but watch the ammonia closely after adding the fish.
To clarify, you mean keep the dKH stable where it is or the ammonia?

Would you recommend dosing some ammonia tonight and testing tmrw?

Thx
 

New&no clue

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Hey Hey, thanks for the input! Your tank is wild!! ...with that rock structure and all that wavy sand -- I dig it! I also notice you've done the low profile lighting... nice! I considered that because my projector screen (to watch TV) sits above my tank, but I've already started the AI Primes and they work well and fit nicely.

I have an Aqueon QT like you but I bought the small 5.5 gallon one, which should be enough for juvenile fish like the 2 clowns I'm planning to buy tmrw. I'll just do the observational QT like you -- that's what I'm sensing from a lot of reefers. You answered my next question, which was about QTing inverts and corals... so thank you!

Which skimmer do you have that's been broken for months? Curious, maybe I don't buy that one lol

I've bought two IM midsize skimmer. The first one broke after about six months. I bought the second one, and it quit within 30 days. However, the tank has been fine without it, so I haven't replaced it. I might put some more macroalgae back there.
 

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I've bought two IM midsize skimmer. The first one broke after about six months. I bought the second one, and it quit within 30 days. However, the tank has been fine without it, so I haven't replaced it. I might put some more macroalgae back there.
My IM skimmer pump stopped working after 6-9 months, I emailed them & they sent me a new pump (free), So no problems since for several years.
 
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I meant the PH. NO to adding ammonia. but test for it before putting the fish in,
Trying to figure out if I can add clowns to my QT tonight. Jazzfisher said No to adding ammonia last night, but I had already added 2ppm (4 drops/gallon) of Dr Tim's because I had to make a quick decision before working my night shift. Today my levels are:

salinity = 1.026
dKH = 6.9
ammonia (red sea test, measured twice) = 0.2
ammonia alert sensor in tank = <0.02ppm ("safe")
nitrites = 1 or greater
nitrates = up to 50ppm

Is the ammonia alert sensor more accurate than my test? -- I see now that the badge measures only free ammonia

Should I do a big water change? Add more biospira or microbacter 7? Add more marine pure biofilter balls? Add some new caribsea live sand that I have?

I assume I won't be able to add fish tonight...?
 

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Can't answer exactly be cause i have never added ammonia when cycling. I would wait until the nitrites and ammonia are 0. You could try a water change and adding more Bio spira ( not familiar with the Dr Tim method) But would not dose both. Hope that helps a little. Maybe someone else will chime in.
 
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Using this as a place to track my progress, water test numbers, etc, since this is my first time ever setting up a tank of any kind. Currently focusing on just my QT that Ive had set up for only a few days. Added 2 very small clowns last night from a reputable LFS (recommended to me by BRS -- which I'm local to here in Minnesota). LFS said they QT their fish, but I'll QT them for 2-3 weeks anyways.

Two nights ago I dosed 2ppm Dr Tim's ammonia. Added an air bubble sponge, a bunch of marine pure biofilter balls, and half a bottle of BioSpira with a touch of microbacter 7 as well.

Utilizing Red Sea kits for Ammonia/Nitrite/Nitrate. Hanna digital for salinity, dkh.

LAST NIGHT tests prior to adding clowns to QT:

QT (5 gallon):

dkh = 6.9
salinity SG = 1.026
ammonia = 0.1
nitrite = over 1 ppm
nitrate = over 50 ppm

LFS tank water (clownfish bag):
dkh = 6.4
salinity SG = 1.022
ammonia = 0.15
nitrite = 0 ppm
nitrate = 6 ppm

Then did a 1 gallon (20%) water change. Added more Biospira, 0.5 mL of Seachem Prime, and 0.5mL of Dr Tim's First Defense. Also fed a few small pinches of micropellets, very few of which the fish actually ate.

Today, fish seem happy and hover around the current provided by the small 3 gallon power filter.

TODAY QT tests:
SG = 1.026
ammonia = 0
nitrite = at or above 1 ppm

Feeling good that my ammonia is at 0 and I've been reading here on R2R that nitrites aren't as important. Although I will continue to test them.
 

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Nitrites and nitrates are finally coming down in the QT.

TODAY'S QT tests:

SG = 1.026
ammonia = 0
nitrite = 0.35 ppm
nitrate = 2 ppm

Will start cycling my DT after getting back into town next week. Once my 2 clowns have been quarantined for 2-3 weeks and my DT is cycled, i'll move them in. I realize I don't wanna increase the bioload too quickly, but need to start considering my next livestock choices.

At what point can I start adding CUC and/or corals?
 

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Once fish are in, you can add CUC, and they can help eat the uneaten fish food. However, remember they add their own bioload, so you don't want to overwhelm the tank with too much too fast. Also, they need to eat as well. If you add too many in, they will starve. I would add 5-10 snails to start and add more as your algae starts to grow or when you add more fish and feed more.

Corals can be added after the tank is cycled. I would start with easy, forgiving corals as your tank is still finding its grove. Corals that don't like big swings are most likely not going too far well in a new tank.
 
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Once fish are in, you can add CUC, and they can help eat the uneaten fish food. However, remember they add their own bioload, so you don't want to overwhelm the tank with too much too fast. Also, they need to eat as well. If you add too many in, they will starve. I would add 5-10 snails to start and add more as your algae starts to grow or when you add more fish and feed more.

Corals can be added after the tank is cycled. I would start with easy, forgiving corals as your tank is still finding its grove. Corals that don't like big swings are most likely not going too far well in a new tank.
Awesome, thanks!
 
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Testing after being gone for the weekend. Clowns seem happy and healthy.

Tuesday 6/1 QT tests:

SG = 1.025
dkH = 5.8
ammonia = 0
nitrite = 0
nitrate = 4 ppm

Tuesday 6/1 DT tests:

SG = 1.028
dkH = 6.9
ammonia = 0
nitrite = 0
nitrate = 0

**Note DT is not cycling yet.
 
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Today added Seachem Reef Fusion 2 to boost alkalinity in both QT and DT, with success.

Finally set up the heater on DT, as well as the initial set up of the Apex EL with the included temp and pH probes. No powerhead in DT yet as the Nero 3 is running in QT for the clowns.

Started cycling the DT according to Dr. Tim's fishless cycling instructions:
- First Defense
- One & Only bacteria - entire bottle (for 30g tank)
- 2.5mL of Ammonium chloride - half dose (2 drops/gal) per Dr Tim b/c using live sand

Will test ammonia/nitrite/nitrate tomorrow...
 
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Added the 2 clowns on 6/16 from my QT. Ammonia was zero and nitrites were still high after a few weeks of cycling, but considering prior posts regarding nitrites/cycling I was confident enough that my tank was suitable for fish. Added some Fritz 2 days after fish just to be sure and now nitrites are decreasing fine.

Just added my first 4 coral frags last night (6/21): green star polyp, zoa, neon clove polyp, and frogspawn. Dipped them with KoralMD and stuck in the sand for now til I figure out placement. All have opened up and seem to be doing well in low-to-moderate light and flow.

Last night DT tests:

dkH = 7.7 -- added some alkalinity before adding corals
pH = 8.02
ammonia = 0.1
nitrite = 0.7
calcium = 495
 

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jazzfisher

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Found a snail or some kind of pest when I dipped the frogspawn last night.

Can anyone identify this? Keep or get rid of it? :cool:
Hope someone can tell you, I can't. but sorta looks like a stomatella snail-which are good. try looking them up to see if it is the same.
 

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