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This was an eye opener to me. I always thought I had pretty good pressure and was just fine for my common and standard 5 stage RODI unit.
Right around 74psi
My system has been running like this for years. I do remember it being at one point around 76psi. I use a very easy to use and implement saddle valve to a 1/4" OD feed line to the RODI unit.
Great so far and over the past 8 years or so I've slowly upgraded the system and also my tank size. Right now I'm using dual 150gpd RO membranes and get something between 200-300gpd.
I'm always looking at ways to up the production rate, reduce the waste water, higher rejection rates etc with out having a 2 to 10 grand commercial unit.
I was also looking at the life of the carbon blocks I'm currently using and I was looking at getting a larger block with 20" x 2.5" housings vs the standard 10"x2.5" housing to handle higher amounts of chlorine removal (or worse chloramines, call your local water department to find out. I call yearly as it can change).
I then ran across The Gapper at Buckeye Hydro
http://www.buckeyehydro.com/the-gapper-light-commercial-ro-system/
I fell in love. 400gpd, 1:1 waste ratio, 98.5-99% rejection, the 20" housings I was looking for anyway, booster pump, autoflush and solenoid system, etc and well under a grand.
Their rep has been tremendously helpful in answering questions on what I'll need. One of the things was the Gapper uses 3/8" tubing vs. 1/4" and they highly recommended against using saddle valves. To paraphrase: the saddle valve is barely ok for standard RO units and terrible choice for the commercial units including the gapper.
So, I went to tap into my copper piping with a T which was very easy using some press to fit fittings. I used some sharkbites from homedepot. (Make sure if your house uses the copper piping for ground like mine does you get ground clamps and jump across. I did up higher then whats in the picture.)
3/4" slip to a T that reduces to 1/2" out the side. Then a angle stop quarter turn valve to the 3/8" tubing needed for the Gapper. It's actually 1/4" ID pex here which is 3/8" OD
If in doubt get a plumber.
And I was curious just how "bad" that saddle valve is to use... So, I slapped on to the end where that 1/4" pex runs too a john guest type 3/8" micro valve and a 3/8" to 1/4" reducing quick connect union.
Then I hooked up that same 1/4" tubing going to the saddle valve that was producing around 74psi to that new 3/8" to 1/4" union.
I was expecting maybe a little increase in pressure. But what I got was shocking to me
Close to 20psi increase!
Summary: Converting from a saddle valve to a T right from my supply water increased the water pressure by close to 20psi
So, if you're using a saddle valve and think you need a booster pump go ahead and swap out that saddle valve and get the right fittings to connect right to the supply line. You may not need that booster pump.
Check to see what the membrane is rated at and talk with a reputable rep to find a good solution.
Thanks again to buckeye hydro for answering my multiple questions so far.
Right around 74psi
My system has been running like this for years. I do remember it being at one point around 76psi. I use a very easy to use and implement saddle valve to a 1/4" OD feed line to the RODI unit.
Great so far and over the past 8 years or so I've slowly upgraded the system and also my tank size. Right now I'm using dual 150gpd RO membranes and get something between 200-300gpd.
I'm always looking at ways to up the production rate, reduce the waste water, higher rejection rates etc with out having a 2 to 10 grand commercial unit.
I was also looking at the life of the carbon blocks I'm currently using and I was looking at getting a larger block with 20" x 2.5" housings vs the standard 10"x2.5" housing to handle higher amounts of chlorine removal (or worse chloramines, call your local water department to find out. I call yearly as it can change).
I then ran across The Gapper at Buckeye Hydro
http://www.buckeyehydro.com/the-gapper-light-commercial-ro-system/
I fell in love. 400gpd, 1:1 waste ratio, 98.5-99% rejection, the 20" housings I was looking for anyway, booster pump, autoflush and solenoid system, etc and well under a grand.
Their rep has been tremendously helpful in answering questions on what I'll need. One of the things was the Gapper uses 3/8" tubing vs. 1/4" and they highly recommended against using saddle valves. To paraphrase: the saddle valve is barely ok for standard RO units and terrible choice for the commercial units including the gapper.
So, I went to tap into my copper piping with a T which was very easy using some press to fit fittings. I used some sharkbites from homedepot. (Make sure if your house uses the copper piping for ground like mine does you get ground clamps and jump across. I did up higher then whats in the picture.)
3/4" slip to a T that reduces to 1/2" out the side. Then a angle stop quarter turn valve to the 3/8" tubing needed for the Gapper. It's actually 1/4" ID pex here which is 3/8" OD
If in doubt get a plumber.
And I was curious just how "bad" that saddle valve is to use... So, I slapped on to the end where that 1/4" pex runs too a john guest type 3/8" micro valve and a 3/8" to 1/4" reducing quick connect union.
Then I hooked up that same 1/4" tubing going to the saddle valve that was producing around 74psi to that new 3/8" to 1/4" union.
I was expecting maybe a little increase in pressure. But what I got was shocking to me
Close to 20psi increase!
Summary: Converting from a saddle valve to a T right from my supply water increased the water pressure by close to 20psi
So, if you're using a saddle valve and think you need a booster pump go ahead and swap out that saddle valve and get the right fittings to connect right to the supply line. You may not need that booster pump.
Check to see what the membrane is rated at and talk with a reputable rep to find a good solution.
Thanks again to buckeye hydro for answering my multiple questions so far.
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