BRR RODI + PUMP = LOW PRESSURE…
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redfishbluefish
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Your booster pump is not plumbed correctly. It needs to go in-between the last carbon block and the membrane. You do not want to pressure feed the other canister filters. It's only there to supply the pressure to the membrane.
EDIT TO ADD...or is it set up right and I'm not following all you colored tubing correctly???
EDIT TO ADD...or is it set up right and I'm not following all you colored tubing correctly???
Gtinnel
10K Club member
That is the best way to do it, but shouldn’t be causing the issues he is having. I’ve had my booster pump on the inlet side of the whole filter for years and never had an issue with it. I’ve planned on changing mine but haven’t done it yet.
robanister
10K Club member
I second this. Don't use saddle vavle. Use a strait valve like under your sink. Saddle valves are notorious for not giving any flow. Plus it's only that little pinhole in pipe not the full 1/4 inch line.
SpyC
Valuable Member
Are there any changes to psi when you open the flush valve? After checking the basics, I would confirm if that has an issue. The pressure auto shutoff for the pump won't do anything with the psi.
Do you have a hose faucet that you can connect the system to to try to rule out the water softener impacting the psi?
Do you have a hose faucet that you can connect the system to to try to rule out the water softener impacting the psi?
SliceGolfer
Valuable Member
@ReefMadScientist I was looking at a different post and this matches your scenario. Worth a read at a minimum!
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R/O system and Booster pump Help
I have a 200GPD 7 stage system with a full Aquatec 8800 booster pump setup (auto flush and cutoff). I purchased the booster from BRS about a year ago because I was only getting around 50psi on a good day. When I installed the booster system it made a lot of noise and vibrations at first then...
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OP
OP
ReefMadScientist
Valuable Member
Yep I did that yesterday and back tracked the entire system. The saddle is punched cleanly and I am getting good flow (eye balling) from there.
Every line is connected with zero leaks.
I believe the issue will lie with some sort of pressure regulator within the system.
I’m even burped the system in case it was an air bubble.
So far my fix is working but it’s a fix and not a solution.
OP
OP
ReefMadScientist
Valuable Member
I’m not saying I know it’s a pressure regulator within the system. I am taking guessing, testing, and doing the best I can. So if there is no pressure regulator of some sorts I apologize for not being an expert on RODI systems.
Copy it won’t work. Thanks for your input.
SliceGolfer
Valuable Member
If you're not using a float switch, should you remove the float switch cut off valve?
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R/O system and Booster pump Help
Still using the piercing valve? Unfortunately without replumbing the hot water heater that’s all I can use.
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OP
OP
ReefMadScientist
Valuable Member
I
During my tests I did bypass the AFS and managed to initially have 58psi with ball valve closed post RODI. When I turned the system on with booster and with the ball valve wide open it dropped down significantly to about 20-40 psi
If you're not using a float switch, should you remove the float switch cut off valve?
R/O system and Booster pump Help
Still using the piercing valve? Unfortunately without replumbing the hot water heater that’s all I can use.
During my tests I did bypass the AFS and managed to initially have 58psi with ball valve closed post RODI. When I turned the system on with booster and with the ball valve wide open it dropped down significantly to about 20-40 psi
KStatefan
2500 Club Member
Where is the pressure gauge currently hooked up? It looks like it is hooked to the output of the carbon filter.
Can you move that to the input side?
I would start with bypassing your pump and disconnecting your DI (no reason to test there and use up resin).
turn supply water on but output off what is the pressure now? Now turn the output on to get the dynamic pressure.
Can you move that to the input side?
I would start with bypassing your pump and disconnecting your DI (no reason to test there and use up resin).
turn supply water on but output off what is the pressure now? Now turn the output on to get the dynamic pressure.
Feel free to give us a call when you are in front of the system and we'll get it squared away with you.
Have you given your vender a chance to invest their customer service time solving your situation?
David
Have you given your vender a chance to invest their customer service time solving your situation?
David
This is correct. Don't use a piercing saddle valve when feeding a booster pump. How is it your original vendor didn't pick up on this?
Sweat in a copper Tee, then a length of pipe (2" or 20' - whatever length you need), and then put in a quarter throw shut off valve and out of the valve end it with a 1/4" compression fitting.
Russ
Russ
All thru this I see a lack of pressure and I keep thinking, did he put the saddle valve on the House side of the Softener, and why? Pretty sure the pressure on the exit side of a water softener is much less then on the intake side Unless you are actually running your faucets. The RODI doesn't provide enough flow to open the valves on the softener with it's water draw.
And why would you put water with more additives into a Filter to remove all additives? I suspect if you plumb your water source correctly, your pressure issues will disappear. Plumb directly into the Water Line on the house side of your meter, BEFORE your softener.
If you are on well water, and you have pressure issues, you got a whole other can of worms to contend with, your Feed Pump from the well is getting weak or your pressure tank is not holding pressure, or you have a break in your water line from the well.
good luck to you
And why would you put water with more additives into a Filter to remove all additives? I suspect if you plumb your water source correctly, your pressure issues will disappear. Plumb directly into the Water Line on the house side of your meter, BEFORE your softener.
If you are on well water, and you have pressure issues, you got a whole other can of worms to contend with, your Feed Pump from the well is getting weak or your pressure tank is not holding pressure, or you have a break in your water line from the well.
good luck to you
KStatefan
2500 Club Member
There is no valve that needs flow to open it on a water softener.
A water softener does not add things to the water it in an ION exchange system replacing IONs that are more likely to scale your membrane with ions that will not at that concentration.
If they made connection anywhere with in the by pass circuit reduced pressure. outlined in red. I'm horrible with explaining. But that Big Head on top is a flow control unit, when your taps are open it allows more flow thru the reservoir to feed greater demand.
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