RODI Pressure with Booster Pump

[tkd]

Hi all, I have a 7 stage BRS RODI unit 75gpd with the water saver for 150 gpd for several years. I maintain the unit changing filters, etc on a regular basis when needed. Up until 4-5 months I have been only getting about 42-44 psi for water pressure, so I just added the Aquatec booster pump that works with this RODI system today.

I just started making water again and the water pressure doubled and is now 86 psi.
- Is the water pressure too high now?
- Should I adjust the booster pump to lower the water pressure and to what psi?
- Should I leave it where it is?

I have read that when pushing 90psi, it can be too much psi on RODI systems and can damage them. This is the first time I am using a booster pump.
Any feedback would be helpful. Thank you.

 

[KStatefan]

I would not turn it down.

 

[tkd]

Thanks for the feedback, KStatefan. I will leave it as it is. It is amazing how much faster I am making water now.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

It depends upon where you have the pump installed in the system. Do you have the pump before the prefilters, or after the prefilters?

Russ

 

[punchy7080]

I push right around 90 psi on my BRS unit which is what they recommend. No issues for a year and a half.

 

[Gtinnel]

With my booster pump my system runs around 100 psi and has never caused an issue.

 

[tkd]

It depends upon where you have the pump installed in the system. Do you have the pump before the prefilters, or after the prefilters?

Russ

Booster pump is before my RODI unit.

 

[tkd]

I have left the PSI where it is. at 85 Been working great, huge difference.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Understand that the weakest components in your system (in terms of ability to withstand pressure) are the clear housings. They are typically rated at a max of 80 psi. So to be a little conservative, we recommend no more than 75 psi in the housings.

For this reason we recommend putting the pump AFTER the prefilter housings. All downstream components that will then see the high pump pressure (fittings, tubing, RO membrane housing, RO membrane) can handle higher pressures.

The recommended configuration is shown in the graphic below, assuming you're using a high pressure switch to control the electrical circuit. You may or may not be using all the electrified components shown in the schematic.

Dashed red lines are electrical wires; blue lines are tubing carrying water.

Russ

 

[Gtinnel]

Wow I’ve never heard that the filter housing should be at that low of a pressure. I’ve been meaning to change my booster pump to after the sediment and carbon so maybe this weekend I’ll change my plumbing around.

 

[tkd]

Thanks for sharing this info Buckeye Hydro

 

[codenfx]

I have my booster set to 90 psi and before the pre-filter, will be lowering the psi and swap the booster to after pre-filters on my next batch. On a side note, whenever I flush I turn off the booster. Is it recommended to leave it on when flushing?

 

[tkd]

Hi Codenfx, I also turn off the booster when flushing.

 

[PedroYoung]

I've been running the same setup (150 GPD) for 5 years now with booster pump at about 85 psi. Never had any problem. Those BRS housings are super thick. Occasionally when my reservoir tops off and the float switch kicks in, the system deadheads to drain and still no leaks. I leave the booster on when flushing, but really never considered it could be a problem.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Leave your booster pump on while flushing. And YES - put your pump AFTER your prefilter housings.

Use of a small strainer is an option after your prefilters and before the pump to keep any carbon fines out of the pump.

Strainer

At Buckeye Hydro we specialize in providing the highest quality water filtration systems and accessories for every potential need.

www.buckeyehydro.com

Russ