RoboTank Controller System - What Do I Have And/Or Need?

[Fish Fan]

Hey guys!

I purchased a used RoboTank V2 system from another reefer some months ago, and I'm just now getting around to trying to set it up. I'd like to get this up and running for a 40 breeder frag tank I'm building, and if it works well (and I have high hopes!) then I want to purchase another full RoboTank system for a 150 gallon display I'm now planning.

I have some background in both Linux and electronics, but I'm super rusty, so largely a noob again at this point, and I have like zero experience with aquarium controllers. I'd appreciate it if you could take a look at what I have, and give me some idea what I will need to make this a complete, working system.

Here's what I *think* I know (please see pic at the end of the post):

I have the RoboTank controller unit, Rev 2, and a 12v power supply, and I did reformat the memory card, and reinstalled the software. I now have RoboTank 6.7 installed, I'm able to see the Reef-Pi web interface, and I just started to play with those settings. My controller has a BNC connector for a pH probe. Does this mean I have a pH circuit, and just need the probe?

I have the AC power bar and a serial cable. I'm missing an AC power cable, but that's no big deal. I think that's all I need for the power bar.

I have the Lighting and DC Module. Looks like this needs its own 12v PS. Should I get another adapter, or split off from the 12v adapter going to the main controller? And just to be clear, my 40 frag tank will be lit with two Kessil A360we Blue's, and my 150 display tank I plan on starting with 3 Kessil A360x's. I'm pretty sure RoboTank can handle those lighting setups. I'll also need a Cat-network cable and a few 3.5mm stereo cables to connect this module to the controller and to my lights, I believe.

I have the sensor module, which came with two non-contact water level sensors. I'm not familiar with these sensors, but I tried to look into them. I'm guessing you want one to mark the high water level and one to mark the low water level in the sump? That doesn't seem like a great solution to me, and I'm not sure how these sensors are supposed to mount to my sump, but maybe I'm not understanding these. Maybe someone can help me understand these a little better? Their cables are very short too. Would an option like a float switch be better? I'm thinking first and foremost about the ATO here.

My setup also included two temp probes on a magnetic holder. I'm not complaining, but why do I need two probes (assuming the previous owner was running only one tank)? Is the second for redundancy, or maybe one goes in the tank and one goes in the sump?

I know I've asked a lot of questions here, but if someone could please take look and what I have, and just point me in the right direction I would very much appreciate it!!!

Right now I want to get the power bar setup, and then heater control/temp monitoring would be my first priorities. Third would be to control my Kessil lights.

Thank you in advance for your help!

 

[robsworld78]

Hey guys!

I purchased a used RoboTank V2 system from another reefer some months ago, and I'm just now getting around to trying to set it up. I'd like to get this up and running for a 40 breeder frag tank I'm building, and if it works well (and I have high hopes!) then I want to purchase another full RoboTank system for a 150 gallon display I'm now planning.

I have some background in both Linux and electronics, but I'm super rusty, so largely a noob again at this point, and I have like zero experience with aquarium controllers. I'd appreciate it if you could take a look at what I have, and give me some idea what I will need to make this a complete, working system.

Here's what I *think* I know (please see pic at the end of the post):

I have the RoboTank controller unit, Rev 2, and a 12v power supply, and I did reformat the memory card, and reinstalled the software. I now have RoboTank 6.7 installed, I'm able to see the Reef-Pi web interface, and I just started to play with those settings. My controller has a BNC connector for a pH probe. Does this mean I have a pH circuit, and just need the probe?

I have the AC power bar and a serial cable. I'm missing an AC power cable, but that's no big deal. I think that's all I need for the power bar.

I have the Lighting and DC Module. Looks like this needs its own 12v PS. Should I get another adapter, or split off from the 12v adapter going to the main controller? And just to be clear, my 40 frag tank will be lit with two Kessil A360we Blue's, and my 150 display tank I plan on starting with 3 Kessil A360x's. I'm pretty sure RoboTank can handle those lighting setups. I'll also need a Cat-network cable and a few 3.5mm stereo cables to connect this module to the controller and to my lights, I believe.

I have the sensor module, which came with two non-contact water level sensors. I'm not familiar with these sensors, but I tried to look into them. I'm guessing you want one to mark the high water level and one to mark the low water level in the sump? That doesn't seem like a great solution to me, and I'm not sure how these sensors are supposed to mount to my sump, but maybe I'm not understanding these. Maybe someone can help me understand these a little better? Their cables are very short too. Would an option like a float switch be better? I'm thinking first and foremost about the ATO here.

My setup also included two temp probes on a magnetic holder. I'm not complaining, but why do I need two probes (assuming the previous owner was running only one tank)? Is the second for redundancy, or maybe one goes in the tank and one goes in the sump?

I know I've asked a lot of questions here, but if someone could please take look and what I have, and just point me in the right direction I would very much appreciate it!!!

Right now I want to get the power bar setup, and then heater control/temp monitoring would be my first priorities. Third would be to control my Kessil lights.

Thank you in advance for your help!

Hi @Fish Fan glad to hear you got the software installed and can access it now. The app you're using isn't part of reef-pi, they are different and you actually have v3 of the controller.

It does have a pH circuit built in, you just need a probe, I recommend a double junction probe as they are more accurate and last longer. Any probe with a BNC connector will work.

You are missing the AC power cord, it's the same style as desktop computers use.

You're also missing some ethernet cables, those connect the sensor and equipment module, you'll need 3 in total.

The equipment extension can be powered using the same power supply as the controller if you use a splitter or you can use a separate power supply which ultimately is better if you have larger DC pumps connected.

The Kessel A360we will connect, you can use one of the 3.5mm plugs on the equipment extension for that. Unfortunately the A360x isn't compatible as Kessel removed 0-10v from it so it only works with their controller unless someone knows of an adapter that's available to convert back to 0-10v but I don't think there is.

The non-contact sensors can sense water through glass so you are correct that you would mount them on the sump or aquarium to monitor levels. There's about a 2-4mm operating window with them so not the best for ATO. To mount them it's best to use a high quality double sided tape. One thing to note though, if the glass gets algae on it they can give false readings. Float switches or optical sensors are best for the ATO. You'll notice on the main controller there are 2 ports marked "Backup Floats AC1 and AC2", these are great for backup sensors for the ATO. These are hardware based, if the software or Raspberry Pi had an issue this port would still turn off Outlet 1 or 2. You can use a float switch or any other type of switch on it, if you don't need you add a jumper. Here's a link to the manual showing what I mean. You'll also see on the equipment extension each DC port has it's own backup port as well.

Robo-Tank Controller Wiring Diagrams.docx

Controller Wiring Diagrams Safety Reminder READ & FOLLOW ALL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS DANGER Never handle electrical equipment with wet hands special care should be taken since water is employed in the use of aquarium equipment Do not attempt repairs to commercial equipment yourself...

docs.google.com

It's never a bad idea to run 2 temperature sensors for redundancy, if you plug those in the main controller the software will detect them and ask for a user name so they are straightforward to configure.

When you add the heater you would use the custom rules to control it, later there will be a dedicated screen for heaters. Using custom rules you would create 2 of them, one to turn the heater on and one to turn it on. For example you could say "If temperature 1 is greater than 78.5 turn off outlet 1". You can also use both temp sensors in the custom rule with AND/OR logic, for example If temperature1 AND/OR temperature 2 is greater than 78.5 turn off. You can also add a delay so the temp is stable before the rule activates.

Hope that helps, let me know how it goes.

 

[Fish Fan]

Hi Rob! As always, I really appreciate your help here!

Hi @Fish Fan glad to hear you got the software installed and can access it now. The app you're using isn't part of reef-pi, they are different and you actually have v3 of the controller.

I'm sorry, I for years thought that RoboTank worked "on top of" Reef-Pi (clearly, I'm not a software guy). If they are separate projects, I apologize. Either way, I just want an affordable controller that doesn't lock me into only the hardware they approve and, I really like your 3D printed enclosures; nice touch! From the videos I have watched, the RoboTank interface looks great, and as long as you'll help me get this going, I'd still like to order a second unit.

Again, sorry, but my controller board is a 'Rev B' so I assumed I had a V2 controller. There are no other markings that I can see. What makes mine a V3? Please know, I'm not complaining, just trying to understand ;-)

The Kessel A360we will connect, you can use one of the 3.5mm plugs on the equipment extension for that. Unfortunately the A360x isn't compatible as Kessel removed 0-10v from it so it only works with their controller unless someone knows of an adapter that's available to convert back to 0-10v but I don't think there is.

This is a huge bummer to me about the newer Kessil X series, but glad I asked! I have two I got a great deal on, but I didn't even notice they took that input away. No big deal, I do have a Kessil Controller, but honestly I may sell my two X series and get another few of the 360we's. I know these lights are far from cutting edge, but I like the Kessils, they remind me of the shimmer I had back when I ran metal halides. I'd like to be able to control them with RoboTank. I can control 3 Kessil a360we's altogether over one tank, correct?

Hope that helps, let me know how it goes.

Rob, I sincerely appreciate your help with this! I don't mean to ask too many questions or to take up too much of your time, but I want a controller and your project is really appealing to me. I've got all the cables I need in my parts boxes, I just haven't had a chance to dig through them. Once I do I'll keep going and if I have more questions, I'll post here.

Thanks again!!!

 

[Fish Fan]

and you actually have v3 of the controller.

OK now I realize I should have installed the V3 software. Nothing a re-install can't fix, but again, how would I have known this is a V3 controller?

Thanks very much for your time!

 

[robsworld78]

OK now I realize I should have installed the V3 software. Nothing a re-install can't fix, but again, how would I have known this is a V3 controller?

Thanks very much for your time!

No problem, whatever you need let me know.

Reef-pi is a different program, you can run it or my app, they are both built for a Raspberry Pi and allow you to configure for your layout. You're right there's no way for you to know that's a V3 controller. There was a big change in port configuration, layout and manufacturing process that's why I changed it to V3, that one's been around for about 2 years and has been great to me. There wasn't really a V2, I only put out 10 of those boards as it didn't accomplish what I wanted and V1 was the initial controller for the Raspberry Pi over 4.5 years ago, many people are still using it after that time.

You do have the right version software installed, the software works with all versions of the controller. You'll see on the "system settings" page you can change which version controller you have. Leave yours at V3. You'll have seen that on the initial setup wizard.

Yeah it's sad Kessel removed that port, not many companies give the option to connect to external controllers.