AdamK1
Community Member
Got totally fed up with filter socks. Really was needed to get a roller mat in this setup. No chance I was removing the sump so had to be done in situ. Don't know why, but I always feel anxious with the return pump off, even though I know I could drop a heater or 2 in the display, and the only thing they'd not have would be the skimmer. Just makes me nervous. This job took about an hour.
Step 1. Cut the plastic filter sock holder out. This was easy. The depth of silicon used meant I could use a regular craft knife.
Step 2. Remove the baffle. This was harder. Ended up removing the pipework from the tank to make it easier. Leaning over with a thin blade in hand, ended up using the blade from a tunze magnetic glass cleaner. Lots of faff, but came out.
Step 3. Get the roller mat in, and position the sump so that the drain will meet the roll mat intake, and the roll is clear of the back of the cab. Only way was to make some serious mods to the rest of the plumbing, although the main downpipe and gate valve needed no alterations. Just rotated to adjust where in the sump it dropped down. The emergency overflow had to be cut and rerouted to the return chamber, its messy, I'll fix that later, and get it back before the skimmer at least. The return pipe had to be cut so the flex tubing joined it closer to the tank, and I could have the gate valve at a funny angle without the return pipe being in the way. Doing it again I'd have bought fresh plumbing parts and replaced the pre glued setup that came with the tank.
I found that the filter couldn't quite be low enough to allow the water level to meet the level line on the filter. Too low and the roll met the top of the sump. No good. So I've a mod to make to the next high baffle along to increase the level in the chambers before it. It'll still work, but it'll need more of a rise in level for the switch to trigger the motor, meaning my ato will go nuts before doing nothing for a while. Minor salinity fluctuations I know, but still avoidable.
Step 4. Clean up all the water and mess and chaos, and open a beer. Program it into the app, and give a quick test.
I got a reef factory smart mat size L. For this sump it's enormous. I'm future proofing, and gearing everything towards a much larger tank down the line. I got very lucky, in that it is nearly millimeter perfect for the space I had. Another half inch in any direction and it wouldn't fit. It's also quite narrow at the top, with the rolls kind of on top of each other, which is needed in this sump and cab combo. A red sea for example would have unavoidably hit the cab.
I wish I didn't have this sump. Its a pain, and needs too much messing with to do anything. I'm learning what I want though, so the big build I can design everything for what I want.
Pic of the end result. Held up with a spoon for now. I'll get the hangers on tomorrow, but that may be challenging. Simply forgot to add them the first time!
Step 1. Cut the plastic filter sock holder out. This was easy. The depth of silicon used meant I could use a regular craft knife.
Step 2. Remove the baffle. This was harder. Ended up removing the pipework from the tank to make it easier. Leaning over with a thin blade in hand, ended up using the blade from a tunze magnetic glass cleaner. Lots of faff, but came out.
Step 3. Get the roller mat in, and position the sump so that the drain will meet the roll mat intake, and the roll is clear of the back of the cab. Only way was to make some serious mods to the rest of the plumbing, although the main downpipe and gate valve needed no alterations. Just rotated to adjust where in the sump it dropped down. The emergency overflow had to be cut and rerouted to the return chamber, its messy, I'll fix that later, and get it back before the skimmer at least. The return pipe had to be cut so the flex tubing joined it closer to the tank, and I could have the gate valve at a funny angle without the return pipe being in the way. Doing it again I'd have bought fresh plumbing parts and replaced the pre glued setup that came with the tank.
I found that the filter couldn't quite be low enough to allow the water level to meet the level line on the filter. Too low and the roll met the top of the sump. No good. So I've a mod to make to the next high baffle along to increase the level in the chambers before it. It'll still work, but it'll need more of a rise in level for the switch to trigger the motor, meaning my ato will go nuts before doing nothing for a while. Minor salinity fluctuations I know, but still avoidable.
Step 4. Clean up all the water and mess and chaos, and open a beer. Program it into the app, and give a quick test.
I got a reef factory smart mat size L. For this sump it's enormous. I'm future proofing, and gearing everything towards a much larger tank down the line. I got very lucky, in that it is nearly millimeter perfect for the space I had. Another half inch in any direction and it wouldn't fit. It's also quite narrow at the top, with the rolls kind of on top of each other, which is needed in this sump and cab combo. A red sea for example would have unavoidably hit the cab.
I wish I didn't have this sump. Its a pain, and needs too much messing with to do anything. I'm learning what I want though, so the big build I can design everything for what I want.
Pic of the end result. Held up with a spoon for now. I'll get the hangers on tomorrow, but that may be challenging. Simply forgot to add them the first time!
