I hear you, as the single voltage changes when you adjust reef-pi I don't think another 0-10v source will work. I think 0-10v from a buck would be ok but that's on you to try.
I would rather open the light and try and read voltage from the back of the 3.5mm jack to make sure 0-10v is getting inside the light. If you use same plug with different source I think it would be the same result. Maybe the sleeve and bottom ring aren't being shorted in the jack as expected.
Another option is to go with something like the BRS dosers that are controlled via an outlet, which is just a timer in reefpi. I have both types and have decided to go with the BRS just from a safety standpoint, they are much slower but I can dial them in and ensure they are off with additional timers so it's pretty failsafe. I have 2 types of power strips in my setup, one set is normally open and one set is normally closed, I have the brs dosers tied to the normally open so if something happens with reefpi they should not stay on.
FYI I am using this board in multiple reefpi installations with modifications - mosfet board I always swap out all the connections with JST-XH connectors and usually swap out the mosfet since its a power mosfet and not a logic level. you bring pwm and gnd from the pi and then connect your power input and output to light and it works fine. You do need to pay attention to how many amps your pulling and ensure your wiring is sufficient for the input and output to the light. FYI JST-XH connectors are only rated for 3a but at least for my lighting connections they are all under that threshold. The screw terminals can handle much more I just dont like screw terminals.
Doing 230v tinkering isn't really an option for me quite yet, but putting a normally open relay on the 12V rail going to the pump drivers might be another way to do a failsafe.
Yeah you have to look at all of the options, didn't notice you were 230v, so understand on that one. I have a nano tank so mine on/off cycles are way smaller, juest wanted to through some ideas out there to think about, lots of different ways to do things.
If you can a picture of the wiring would help. The mosfets I used seem like they have a hard time at lower voltages so I appreciate the tip!
Sure here are some pics of the board, you can find them in lots of places, but for the rpi you want a logic level n channel mosfet, since you want a lower gate voltage.
I appreciate the tip! ordering now!Sure here are some pics of the board, you can find them in lots of places, but for the rpi you want a logic level n channel mosfet, since you want a lower gate voltage.
Vin/gnd is power input, V+ and V- would go to the light and then the connections on the left side you would use sig and ground from the pi, you do not need to use the vcc connection.
Here is how I modify them since I do not like the screw terminals:
A three pin jst-xh connector lines up with the center pin pulled. I am using the this mosfet but there are other versions - mosfet Like I said keep in mind that JST connectors are only good for 3a and you may need more depending on your light, have to run the numbers and adjust accordingly.
Here is a video showing the board being hooked up etc, lots of Robo names, lol - Robojax
Hope that helps...
Just doing a followup post as I reread the exchange and wanted to be sure I didn't misread something. The TO-220 fromSure here are some pics of the board, you can find them in lots of places, but for the rpi you want a logic level n channel mosfet, since you want a lower gate voltage.
Vin/gnd is power input, V+ and V- would go to the light and then the connections on the left side you would use sig and ground from the pi, you do not need to use the vcc connection.
Here is how I modify them since I do not like the screw terminals:
A three pin jst-xh connector lines up with the center pin pulled. I am using the this mosfet but there are other versions - mosfet Like I said keep in mind that JST connectors are only good for 3a and you may need more depending on your light, have to run the numbers and adjust accordingly.
Here is a video showing the board being hooked up etc, lots of Robo names, lol - Robojax
Hope that helps...
TO-220 is a package that is used for higher voltage support...thats me paraphrasing it means more than that and I am sure one of the electronic guys can chime in and be a lot more specific. For the most part as an electronic noob, there are 2 types a IRF mosfet and IRL mosfet, basically a power mosfet vs logic level and for rpi based control a logic level is better suited - here is a better description - irf vs irl
This makes so much more sense to me know. I recently ordered some 10V regulators from my original post and realized that it also uses the TO-220 package. Your explination makes sense and is how I originally thought you were explaining yourself but then searching "TO-220" and seeing logical mosfets had me confused and spinning in circles. Maybe I will read up on them before I go and plug this in haha You are very helpful and I appreciate you explaining it to a less educated electrical tinkerer.TO-220 is a package that is used for higher voltage support...thats me paraphrasing it means more than that and I am sure one of the electronic guys can chime in and be a lot more specific. For the most part as an electronic noob, there are 2 types a IRF mosfet and IRL mosfet, basically a power mosfet vs logic level and for rpi based control a logic level is better suited - here is a better description - irf vs irl
That board that I show above comes with an IRF mosfet and while it works the light is really dimmed, when I switch it to a IRL mosfet the light looks normal and works as I expect it to.
I'm sure someone will come along and provide additional information.
Yeah I'm not an electronic guy either, just what I have picked up from reading here etc. The main difference is the gate voltage threshold (Vgs) for each mosfet, the power mosfets require 10v to fully open the gate vs the logic level mosfets is usually 3.3 to 5v.
Update, made another cable with a different trs plug and same response, no response. For funs and grins I inserted it into the output jack and took measurements, on one of the ends, can't remember if it was tip or ring it read 1.37v so I thought that was interesting. It does not read anything coming from the input.
If it's not glued together, there shouldn't be many problems with taking it apart. Some side probably is just screwed down and can be unscrewed and taken off. Just be on the lookout for cables attached between the different case parts that need to be unplugged before pulling a panel away completely or something.Update, made another cable with a different trs plug and same response, no response. For funs and grins I inserted it into the output jack and took measurements, on one of the ends, can't remember if it was tip or ring it read 1.37v so I thought that was interesting. It does not read anything coming from the input.
I guess the next step would be to open it up, kind of reluctant to do that but not sure how else to troubleshoot it. Not real sure with doing that what I am going to be looking for, it could be that the mars aqua analaog output is just not what it wants to see, I do not have a Kessil controller on hand to verify, if I did I wouldn't need this.
