reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

Yov

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Do you see any error in the log when you click on the take photo button? Do you have raspistill installed?

yes: 404 page not found | HTTP 404
1597149145027.png


But suddenly i see a picture XD! nothing changed? Still getting the error...
 

robsworld78

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I dont have a pi 4 with me that i can test :-( . If its something we can reproduce, we can then fix it, even if it involves a temporary fork of the embd repo. I have reduced reef-pi dependency on it significantly already, may be we'll get rid of it altogether. The only thats holding me back from not recommending it is there are few folks who are already running it successfully.,

Well we have to get you a Pi 4. :) If 10 of us send $5 to your PayPal you can order one, who's willing to chip in with me? What email do we use if you care to share?
 

Mikeneedsahobby

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Well we have to get you a Pi 4. :) If 10 of us send $5 to your PayPal you can order one, who's willing to chip in with me? What email do we use if you care to share?
I think @Ranjib should be rich from this thing. Or at least able to enjoy a meal at an expensive restaurant near him. I would send $5.
 
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Ranjib

Ranjib

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:) . It’s not about the money . Thank to all your blessing I am doing ok. I had bought a pi 4, but destroyed it during some usb c power delivery experiment. And I personally was frustrated with micro hdmi port, and then since 2020 I got very busy with the new house etc. that’s all, I’ll be getting pi 4 and sort this out, just give me some time to schedule some free time for this :)
 

Zippyfear

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I have had to open my case up probably 5 times due to broken wires or pins coming off. I guess stripping wires with with a blade isn’t smart. Lots of breaks where the strip started. I also started soldering my wires to the crimp pin connectors because they kept pulling out.

Great idea.. crimp pins are driving me insane lately.
 

theatrus

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Great idea.. crimp pins are driving me insane lately.

Crimping is hard, its a better connection than soldering if done right, but its hard to do right especially with the wrong tool.

If you have lots of smaller pins the line of Engineer crimpers at least have the right die shape in them:


You can find them on Amazon for pretty cheap. If you want sticker shock you can always price the "official" tool for whatever connector you have, and find its likely $500+ for a hand tool ;)
 

Mikeneedsahobby

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Crimping is hard, its a better connection than soldering if done right, but its hard to do right especially with the wrong tool.

If you have lots of smaller pins the line of Engineer crimpers at least have the right die shape in them:


You can find them on Amazon for pretty cheap. If you want sticker shock you can always price the "official" tool for whatever connector you have, and find its likely $500+ for a hand tool ;)

i hope I’m done with these connectors. But if I was starting now I would definitely get something. Standard electrical strippers and crimpers are about useless for this stuff. I did all my connections with a sharp knife and tiny pliers. ... and many cuss words.
 

brandon clow

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Crimping is hard, its a better connection than soldering if done right, but its hard to do right especially with the wrong tool.

If you have lots of smaller pins the line of Engineer crimpers at least have the right die shape in them:


You can find them on Amazon for pretty cheap. If you want sticker shock you can always price the "official" tool for whatever connector you have, and find its likely $500+ for a hand tool ;)

I use either Deutsch or Amp for all of my connections. I am not a fan of my Amp pin crimper but the connectors seem to be a bit smaller then my bulky Deutsch ones. I have looked at hirschmann but it doesn't seem to be as readily available. +1 on the crimper and die costs, the half price alternatives are still worth it IMO.
 

theatrus

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I use either Deutsch or Amp for all of my connections. I am not a fan of my Amp pin crimper but the connectors seem to be a bit smaller then my bulky Deutsch ones. I have looked at hirschmann but it doesn't seem to be as readily available. +1 on the crimper and die costs, the half price alternatives are still worth it IMO.

My first LED setup ( https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ledbrick-diy-led-pendant-with-pucks.243746/ ) used Molex MicroFit connectors. While the connectors (that haven't been salt water splashed) work great years later, I spent hours with the wrong tools building cable harnesses. Its a giant pain. Hence I go for direct wire to board types for ease of use now, especially without how infrequently I actually disconnect the connector.
 
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brandon clow

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I do like those moles microfit , I want to say thats what I used for my PCA as I had some 3 rows sitting around. I think they came from a lever lock setup on one of my tri core modules (similar to bosch high pole connectors). I use the Deutsch DT series for all of my outside of the box connections where I think water is a hazard. I have had some water ingress issues with my Bosch bulkheads though and will be utilizing a bunch of deutsch hdp connectors I have laying around. My only gripe is that you can smash pins, even with the keyways...i have done this on harnessing that I don't always have a clear view of but they sure do get a lot of wires through, with a high current option if needed. I am always looking for robust, small, and not tedious to crimp (<talking about tyco here) connectors to experiment with. I will have to look at moles more often!
 

elysics

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So, i don't know whether this is a known bug or not, but everytime i shutdown and turn back on or restart reef-pi (3.4), the temperature graph goes haywire, where current readings overlap with the readings of the last two hours. The normal graph stops at 11:34 and then it alternates between the data from 11:34 to 13:31 and the data from 13:34 to 15:32, with the behaviour stopping at 15:32. It happened several times now, everytime i restart reef-pi, though i do not know whether the overlap is always two hours, i seem to remember it being for longer before.


1597757897040.png

1597757949988.png
 

stefanm

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Help please, after 15 days I got my lights back up and running (most of them) I had the same issue last night which has repeated tonight, they'll not dim down fully on the slider bar on my royal blue channel it's showing 43, the slider is very close to zero, the other channel I'm running Vero 10 cob seems to be off, the blue light maybe making it appear to be on.

Any advice please?

I'm using the interval setting, first and last positions are set to zero, it worked well before.
 

Schreiber

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Help please, after 15 days I got my lights back up and running (most of them) I had the same issue last night which has repeated tonight, they'll not dim down fully on the slider bar on my royal blue channel it's showing 43, the slider is very close to zero, the other channel I'm running Vero 10 cob seems to be off, the blue light maybe making it appear to be on.

Any advice please?

I'm using the interval setting, first and last positions are set to zero, it worked well before.

When you say you got them back up & running, what exactly was the issue that made them "not running"? Have you changed the wiring on any connectors? I know I saw some weirdness with sliders not dimming all the way a while back I realized was caused by switching ground & one of the PWM outputs.
 

Mikeneedsahobby

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Help please, after 15 days I got my lights back up and running (most of them) I had the same issue last night which has repeated tonight, they'll not dim down fully on the slider bar on my royal blue channel it's showing 43, the slider is very close to zero, the other channel I'm running Vero 10 cob seems to be off, the blue light maybe making it appear to be on.

Any advice please?

I'm using the interval setting, first and last positions are set to zero, it worked well before.

Check your pwm wire. When I’ve had this problem I found a broken wire or that I plugged it in backwards. You might need to trace down the issue with a multimeter.
 

Michael Lane

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So, i don't know whether this is a known bug or not, but everytime i shutdown and turn back on or restart reef-pi (3.4), the temperature graph goes haywire, where current readings overlap with the readings of the last two hours. The normal graph stops at 11:34 and then it alternates between the data from 11:34 to 13:31 and the data from 13:34 to 15:32, with the behaviour stopping at 15:32. It happened several times now, everytime i restart reef-pi, though i do not know whether the overlap is always two hours, i seem to remember it being for longer before.


1597757897040.png

1597757949988.png
I've occasionally noticed the ordering of values on the charts sometimes being incorrect. I don't think we have an issue for it yet.
 
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