Thanks,
actually its a pi 3b+ but I think I downloaded the zero version initially. should I delete and reinstall? or reformat sd and start from scratch?
reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.
- Thread starter Ranjib
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Thanks,
actually its a pi 3b+ but I think I downloaded the zero version initially. should I delete and reinstall? or reformat sd and start from scratch?
bishoptf
Valuable Member
Depends on how fast you push them, at stock voltage they are nearly silent, they don't push a ton of air but 2-3 of them should do fine for a nano tank. I have gobs of them from a long ago project, trying to clean things out and just hate tossing things that I think could be used for a good purpose.
OP
OP
Yes.i don’t know when I’ll get time to work on this. But this is definitely gonna come
OP
OP
Awesomethanks everyone for all your help, have it all installed, tested and ready to go. have ordered a bunch of components and will start a build thread soon. wish me luck
and best of luck
dmolavi
Well-Known Member
Anyone use these? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018KFX5X0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AYI27JSX7SHMW&psc=1
Price per unit can't be beat, if they work. If folks haven't used these particular ones, which can you recommend, and how are you sealing them? I can't find clear PVC shrink tube anywhere...
Price per unit can't be beat, if they work. If folks haven't used these particular ones, which can you recommend, and how are you sealing them? I can't find clear PVC shrink tube anywhere...
crusso1993
7500 Club Member
@dmolavi - some people have uses those with some success. Most have had not-so-good results. Overall, there are various probes being used and @theatrus was running some tests on different methods for sealing. I am not sure if/what his findings were. Also, some are testing putting a thermistor in a test tube and sealing it.
Some folks have had very good results with this model.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11050
And I believe @Bigtrout has seen very good results with this one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY8U394/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PZXtCbDPWAFFG
dmolavi
Well-Known Member
Thanks, yeah I didn't see any followup from @theatrus on his tests.
The big question is the sealing of the probes. Ranco just used heat shrink on the one they sold to me for the temp controller I use, and it's been just fine, reliability-wise. They specifically call out PVC shrink tube on their site...I guess because it probably doesn't leech like the normal PO shrink tubing, and has thinner walls which makes for better thermal conductivity.
OP
OP
I am assuming so. It’s not explicitly stated.
DirtDiggler2823
If I can't break it, it doesn't exist
You should strip off the shrink wrap, and add your own coating. Mine failed in less than a day when used fresh out of the box. Others have tried silicone, but those failed eventually as well. In my opinion, the juice isn't worth the squeeze to improve those. These have been good though
DROK 2pcs -55℃ to 125℃/-67℉ to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY8U394?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
dmolavi
Well-Known Member
sorry.. thought the original would quote...these are what i was asking about:
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11050
@DirtDiggler2823 - The sparkfun ones failed on you? How did you seal the DROK sensors?
DirtDiggler2823
If I can't break it, it doesn't exist
I didn't have to seal the DROK sensor. It's got an amazing silicon insulation, and it is double crimped. I'm also using a sparkfun probe that comes already fully sealed in plastic. I don't have the link for that one handy. Both are working well right now, and neither required any additional work other than tipping them. The DROK ones do have a thicker cable, so you'll want to take that into account when you begin tipping them.
DirtDiggler2823
If I can't break it, it doesn't exist
My apologies. I'm an old jarhead, and for us that means adding the connector to the cable. In this case, the "tip" is either a 3.5mm headphone jack, or RJ-45 connector.
OP
OP
This weekend I was busy with analog input connector and ph module integration with it.. the basic integration is now done, but there’s more work needed for making it useful with the ph board. This includes converting raw analog voltage values to ph and incorporating the calibration logic. That will be my next focus...
while not coding , I got busy with building (more like rebuilding) a controller for raffle for our local club in upcoming local coral farmers market . The idea is to change one of my old build with simplified circuit and more probes. Aiming for a pi 3 based build, with three temperature sensor, two ato sensors, one db9 connector for power strip, two spst buttons (one for power and the other is unused) and plenty of empty room in the enclosure for future improvements (ph board or display etc). This time I measured electricity consumption very carefully in each step , with individual components. Here is a rundown of the observations for the curious minds:
My measurements are taken using kill a watt, connected to an AC 110v, 60Hz house hold power line. The reef-pi build is powered by a 12 v , 1a dc wall wart (ul listed, and regulated ). I ran various equipment against a 5.5g tank.
- just the controller :0.03 A
- Power head (12w) : 0.02 A
- light (12w): 0.03A
- heater (25w): 0.17A
Tank water was at garage temperature at 64F, and I preset it to 79F. The heater was able to increase 2F per hour in the first 4 hours , followed by 1.5 F per hour and then plagues at 1.3/0.7 F per hour. I was very excited to see the graphs and note down the numbers , I have many ideas after runnng this. I think having an ability to specify the expected usage and monitor the ongoing usage will be tremendously useful. I am also think probably it’s not required to have multiple independent monitoring of current to get the bulk of benefits ...thoughts ?
while not coding , I got busy with building (more like rebuilding) a controller for raffle for our local club in upcoming local coral farmers market . The idea is to change one of my old build with simplified circuit and more probes. Aiming for a pi 3 based build, with three temperature sensor, two ato sensors, one db9 connector for power strip, two spst buttons (one for power and the other is unused) and plenty of empty room in the enclosure for future improvements (ph board or display etc). This time I measured electricity consumption very carefully in each step , with individual components. Here is a rundown of the observations for the curious minds:
My measurements are taken using kill a watt, connected to an AC 110v, 60Hz house hold power line. The reef-pi build is powered by a 12 v , 1a dc wall wart (ul listed, and regulated ). I ran various equipment against a 5.5g tank.
- just the controller :0.03 A
- Power head (12w) : 0.02 A
- light (12w): 0.03A
- heater (25w): 0.17A
Tank water was at garage temperature at 64F, and I preset it to 79F. The heater was able to increase 2F per hour in the first 4 hours , followed by 1.5 F per hour and then plagues at 1.3/0.7 F per hour. I was very excited to see the graphs and note down the numbers , I have many ideas after runnng this. I think having an ability to specify the expected usage and monitor the ongoing usage will be tremendously useful. I am also think probably it’s not required to have multiple independent monitoring of current to get the bulk of benefits ...thoughts ?
Both of my dipped units that had epoxy fills in the capsule are still working fine. The unit without the epoxy fill and just a dip failed quickly.
Current monitoring at least at the strip level is helpful to know some failure modes, like “hey your lights didn’t turn on” or “your heater is jammed”. For bigger tanks also helps budget breaker loading.
Back when I ran T5s and halides I paid attention to the power factor as well, since some of those were **** on the ballasts, and really loaded the circuit down in current but not in real power. An accurate real power meter is slightly more expensive and requires voltage taps and watching the integration output as well, as well as some real time math from outputs in the cheap units.
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