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Hello all reefers, my name is Fabio and I come from a town near Monza, Italy. This passion was born many, many years ago, when I was about 6 years old, coming from a family where my dad was passionate about both freshwater and marine aquariums. I created my first marine aquarium (which you see in the article) after the pandemic at the end of 2019. Therefore, it will be almost 5 years old in November 2024. I practically started from scratch because the marine aquariums of the past (at least here in Italy) were made up of only rocks and fish. There wasn't yet the whole part relating to corals, so my dad gave me some advice on the part relating to fish. On everything else (management and corals), I started from 0, from the basics, with people already experts in the sector who I thank for having taught me so much. At the same time, the registration to the various forums and groups have allowed me to learn and deepen numerous themes. Today, because of a lot of passion and desire to learn, but also thanks to the direct experiences I have had with the tank in recent years, I feel I have learned a lot and have now addressed almost all the problems/case studies. Therefore, I feel ready on any front if should something happen to me.
System Profile:
- Display tank: My tank is handmade - made to measure with 1cm glass and measures 60x40x55h (centimeters) and is 132 litres (around 35 gallons). The nano cube is 30 litres (8 gallons), and measures 30x30x35h in centimeters.
- Glass or Acrylic: glass
- Stand: the 25x25 extruded aluminum structure with its white lacquered glass paneling was custom-made by ‘Malberti Acquari’.
- Sump: in forex made by R.B.C. divided into two compartments: skimmer with drop on one side and rise on the other, very simple. Capacity approx. 20L
- Protein skimmer: Skimz SN127
- Carbon/phosphate filtration: I do not use constant charcoal (GAC), I use it when necessary and usually insert it for one week per month. I noticed that by keeping it fixed (I tried) the well-being of my animals got worse.
- Return pump: Sicce Syncra silent 2.0
- Water circulation: N°2 Vortech mp10 (Ecotech Marine), the master set at 80 per cent and the slave at 70 per cent. I use several different programs during the day, but the main one I am very happy with is reef crest which is a mixed movement simulating a coral reef.
- Lighting (display): I have a Radion Xr30 G5 Blue
- Lighting (refugium): Until recently, I had a refugium next to it connected to the main tank, now I have turned it into a tank of only clowns and anemones. I light the tank with a Cetus 2 from Aqua Illumination
- Calcium/alkalinity/magnesium dosing equipment: I have a complete GHL system of which I use a 4-channel metering pump to supplement calcium, magnesium and KH.
- Auto top-off: I use one of the first and classic old-school float fillers, which is much more reliable than the optical ones that are on the market now. The brand is Wavereef and it is called auto-fill
- Heating/cooling: Heating, I use a heater from Newa. It's very reliable despite not being the top for some with 150W power. As for cooling, I use 5 fans of GHL, the propeller breeze third series, all connected to the Profilux 4 to manage switching on and off depending on the temperature.
- System control: As I mentioned before, I use the GHL system for automatic KH control (Kh director), the Profilux 4 for monitoring temperature, ORP, salinity and PH, the intelligent powerbar to which I have connected the main elements such as skimmers, movement pumps, return pump, heater and fans. This powerbar allows me to do maintenance by creating programs at the touch of a button using the app. Very convenient I must say. Finally, I installed the slave dosimeter in series with the KHD to manage the triad (as I explained above). In parallel, I use the Exaqua instrument (again electronic but more manual) for carrying out other tests on water parameters, which is also very precise and trustworthy.
The 30x30 cube (7mm glass) beside the main tank was made 2 years ago with the idea of recreating an exposed refugium with algae, seahorses and pipefish. I kept it that way for about a year, then I suffered a bacteriosis that killed my seahorses at which point, for a change, I decided to redo the cube setup by inserting several anemones with some pipefish. In fact, it is still being set up today. The cube measures 30x30x35h about 30 liters, ocean direct sand with 6cm SSB, connected to the main tank. I have a 1000l/h Eheim pump in the main sump that charges my water and the discharge always returns to the main sump on the rising pump side. I have a 500l/h movement pump and AI Cetus 2 lighting set to a very basic schedule, sunrise and sunset and 8 hours of light on and off almost in parallel with the Radion in the main tank. I have to say that apart from the setup that I changed and am still modifying, the real benefit this cube gives me is more filtration, because the SSB layer helps me a lot with nutrient management especially for the main tank being a unique system. It gives me a big hand in keeping everything balanced, and I am very happy with it.
Water Circulation and Flow Summary and Objectives:
On circulation and flows, my goal has always been to create as complete a movement as possible and get it to as many points as possible by optimizing the installation of pumps. As you can see the position of the Ecotech pumps (Vortech MP10QWD), I have found the correct balance of a proper circular movement that I can get everywhere, thus avoiding stagnant areas and avoiding cyanobacteria and other things. The power of the pumps was determined by my corals. I started off slowly and worked my way up to where I didn't notice any annoying signs from the corals, there I stopped. In fact I have a good 80% power on the master pump (the one on the left) and a good 75% power on the slave pump which would be the one on the long rear glass, set in the mode ‘Master’.
Water Parameters:
- Temp: 25°C
- pH: 8.4 day 8.1 night
- Specific gravity: 35%
- NO3: 10-12
- Ca: 420-450 more or less
- Alk: 8.3
- Mg: 1320-1350 more or less
- PO4: 0.05-0.1
- Ammonia and nitrites: 0
What salt mix do you use?
I use Modern reef salt simply because I use their complete protocol. Compared to the others, I noticed that it has a very fine consistency, and it really melts in 20 minutes unlike others that take a few hours. Over the years I have tried other types such as Tropic Marin and Royal Nature and I found them to work well.
What kind of rock did you start with?
I started with the real reef rocks (25kg) which are dead rocks. I had an advantage because the shop near my house had already started them in the containers by inserting bacteria. I took them after several weeks that they were hanging around in these tanks so I can say that they were already seeded with some bacteria. This has helped me mature a bit and waste less time.
What is your substrate?
Even though the tub is from Berlin, I preferred to embellish it by inserting 1.5 of pure aragonite and rinsing it thoroughly. At the beginning it wasn't easy to manage but to date it doesn't cause me any problems.
Calcium/Alkalinity/Magnesium Summary and Objectives:
What matters is having the stable triad (what we call the "Big 3"). I don't look much at the values anymore. I'm not obsessed. Obviously I respect the pre-established ranges and I don't go too far, but I tried to have calcium above the average, magnesium above the average and KH fluctuating. All this has never caused me major problems. What matters is the stability of the system.
What and how do you dose for the big 3 (alk/cal/mag)?
Managing the tank with Modern Reef, I mainly rely on the KH which is the value I test frequently. Calcium and magnesium are directly proportional to the KH value (the Modern Reef RKS system talks about it) and I can say that by operating in this way I can do without often testing Ca and Mg because if you have excellent (and stable) KH values the other two follow the parameters in step. There is a table on their site that explains the ratio. I do ICP every two months, and Ca and Mg are always aligned with the desired values even though I almost never test them.
Are you dosing anything else for your reef health (carbon dosing, aminos, etc.)?
Yes, as I said before, using the complete Modern Reef method, it involves the addition of amino acids every day with dosages that vary depending on the amount of balling given daily. Furthermore, every other day I dose the complete reef food which is a food for everything in the marine system and is not targeted for certain animals (again with dosages based on balling). Twice a week I dose Biodiversity and once a week I dose bacteria. Every now and then I use phytoplankton even if I am not entirely a phytoplankton lover. Just as I said previously about carbon, I don't like it and I don't find it beneficial to keep it constant, but I use it when necessary or one week a month for prevention.
Lighting Summary and Objectives:
Program intensity at 100%. I have a total photoperiod of 10 hours at peak with 45 minutes of sunrise and 45 minutes of sunset. My setting is divided in two: the first 6 hours of peak, I use all channels at 100% except lime, red and cyan (which I keep very low, I don't exceed 10%) while in the second part of the program, I only reduce white from 100 to 10%, keeping a purely blue light to develop different chromoproteins on my corals.
Filtration and Water Quality Summary and Objectives:
For filtration, I have a lot of rock. In the cube next to me I have an SSB with 6 centimeters of very fine sand which also helps me filter there.
What is your export strategy?
If we talk about the export of nutrients, my strategy is oxidation. I regulate my tanks with that on a natural level. I have rarely found myself having to resort to mechanical methods. I have never used resins. I have tried lanthanum several times for the export of phosphates with positive results, but I was very careful with its use. After all, I am faithful to the numerous and substantial water changes when necessary.
What is your maintenance routine?
Daily: window cleaning and general checks
Weekly: Skimmer clean
Other: water change 1 once a month
Tank Inhabitants - Fish:
- Zebrasoma Xanthurum
- Amphiprion ocellaris percula
- Pseudochromis fridmani
- Cirrhilabrus solorensis
- Dascyllus melanurus
- Chrysiptera hemicyanea
- Halichoeres chrysus
- Synchiropus picturatus
- Salarias ramosus
- Chromis viridis
- Doryrhamphus excisus
Other Invertebrates:
- Lysmata wurdemanni (x4)
- Libia tesselata
- Mitrax (x2)
- Stenopus zanzibaricus (x2)
- Turbo (x4)
- (20) species of acropora (I won't list them all)
- (5) Euphyllia parancora (orange, yellow, green)
- (1) Euphyllia paradivisa
- Lobophyllia
- Blastomussa
- Chalice (jelly bean, bugatti)
- Mushroom surskit
- Montipora various
- Acanthastrea various
- Euphyllia glabrescens toxic green
- Seriatopora bird of paradise
- Stylophora milka
- Anacropora forbesi
- Zoanthus various
Fish and Coral Feeding:
As food for the fish I use flakes, pellets and frozen Ocean Nutrition and for the corals only Complete reef food from Modern Reef.
How did you decide what to keep in your tank?
I like to breed everything and have a mixed reef. I have no particular preferences. In truth, I love SPS frags.
Any stocking regrets?
no
Any fish, invert, or coral you will NEVER keep?
I would like everything, but unfortunately I cannot keep some animals partly due to size requirements and partly due to compatibility
What do you love most about the hobby?
The colors that the reef offers is the first thing that fascinated me years ago but I like the whole thing.
How long have you been doing this?
In November I have had my personal tank for 5 years, but I come from a family where my dad has always been passionate about aquariums in general. We had both freshwater and marine aquariums at home.
Who was responsible for getting you into the hobby?
My dad!
Who or what in the hobby most influences/inspires you?
I want to sincerely thank my very close friends who are supporting me in this project and helping me to improve more and more by teaching me the right notions to be more successful: Francesco Di Palma (Franky's Frag) and Alessio Bertin my coral dealers, as well as great friends and JM-Reefer for the technical support on the protocol I follow.
If you could have any tank, what size would it be and why?
100x60x60 I think it is the ideal size to raise it in the best possible way, but here it is rather subjective as the size varies from many factors: space, costs, animal to be raised.
Favorite fish?
Rhinecanthus aculeatus, but it can't be kept in a reef tank, so for me it's the Synchiropus.
Favorite coral?
Jelly bean chalice or bugatti, but acropora frags are also among my favorites.
Favorite invert?
I don't particularly have a favorite. I like stars even if they don't last in our reef.
How do you typically get over setbacks?
If we talk about problems, I like to analyze, go deeper to understand the underlying cause. If I can't, I send ICP tests to understand what value is out of place and what is happening.
Have you faced any major challenges with this particular tank, and if so, how did you overcome?
I have to be honest, I've never had any major problems (for now let's knock on wood). The only problem that really scared me, 1 and a half years ago, was in using the Majano wand to eradicate some Majanos. In essence, it is an instrument that works on the principle of electrolysis, I didn't understand the cause, but perhaps by using it too much in the tank, I noticed a total blackout on the part of the corals, all the corals closed, including the resistant ones. I lost some, in short, a moment of panic indeed. I acted by putting activated carbon in place immediately and carrying out several water changes at intervals and in 3-4 days the situation returned to normal. So I advise you to pay attention to how you use certain tools.
What's the best thing you ever bought for your tank?
If we talk about fish, seahorses, which I have had in the past in a dedicated tank (refugium). In terms of corals, some signature frags from SPS.
What are your future plans for improvement/upgrade of the tank?
The future plan, as I tell everyone, will definitely be to expand and make a larger but not exaggerated tank, around the dimensions mentioned before, but first I have to settle down with the house and move to a larger and more spacious apartment.
Any special tips for success or advice you'd like to share with other reefers?
From my experience I always say: use the indispensable technique without exaggerating by using superfluous tools that in truth are not needed. The fewer things we have, the more management and costs will be simplified. The same goes for the products: find a method that has the right "simple" management, the 2-3 products necessary for maintenance without having to go crazy buying 50 products of various kinds and creating a minestrone which ultimately takes you to nowhere but confusion. First of all, ideas must be clear about what the long-term objective will be, then we move on to choosing the simplest and best method. I don't deny that having a cutting-edge technique helps a lot with the management of the tank, despite it being very expensive.
Final Thoughts:
I'm a very precise guy, as you can see. I like to always keep the aquarium clean (ditto the sump and the skimmer). I dedicate about 40 minutes a day to it. Every day between various cleanings and various checks to do.
I want to thank the R2R team for giving me this huge opportunity to be featured as Reef of the Month by choosing my tank and for allowing me to share my tank and my management. Thank you so much!
