Purple Tang Treatment Plan?

[Macimage]

How long was the freshwater dip for?
I know this is an obvious one, but just confirming the water was dechlorinated correct?
Just to check is the water from city or well?
Freshwater dips can be quite a shock, I’m guessing particularly for older fish who haven’t been dipped in a long time, if ever. It should start looking back to normal again within an hour or so. I know it’s tempting to put him back in the 180gallon, but unless something was significantly wrong with how you made the water for 45gall, it likely won’t make a difference and could just stress the fish more.

I used ro/di water and baking soda to match the ph. It was for five minutes. Thank you for your reply. He’s not looking better.

 

[Macimage]

He is upside down in the display.

 

[MischiefReef]

Posting some guideline info here from HF that I tend to follow for FW dipping. Can you verify the procedure you did for fw dip.

What "Freshwater" To Use: There are 3 options:

1. RO or RODI (add a little saltwater to improve conductivity so that pH can be read accurately)
2. Water taken from a "clean" freshwater aquarium (non-acidic i.e. pH should be 7 or greater)
3. Dechlorinated tap water (non-acidic i.e. pH should be 7 or greater)

^^ With all of the above, pH should be raised to ~ 8.0 before placing fish in the dip water. This can be accomplished by using supplements (available at most LFS) or you can “bake” your own DIY supplement by using baking soda. Spread baking soda onto a clean baking sheet, and bake at 300F for 1 hour. This process drives off carbon dioxide and water from the baking soda, and the result is an effective pH booster. You will need to experiment (start with a very small amount) to determine how much is needed to raise your pH to the desired level.

How To Treat: Fill a bucket with freshwater, and use a heater to match temperature to the fish's source water. Aerate the water heavily (by using an airstone or small powerhead pointed towards the water surface) for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip; and then reduce (or even discontinue) aeration while performing the dip. Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, certain fish (e.g. tangs) are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch the fish's gills (they should be breathing heavily), and keep the fish upright & swimming at all times! If breathing slows, or the fish refuses to get up after chasing (BUT NOT TOUCHING) it with your hand, then it’s time to exit the dip! Dip the fish for no more than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish 24-48 hours to recuperate in-between freshwater dips.

 

[MischiefReef]

Also from the same guidelines: note the last bit about helping distressed fish using flow from the power heads, hope that helps!!

Cons/Side Effects: Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are usually not thorough enough to eliminate all of the parasites/worms afflicting a fish. (So, followup treatment in a quarantine tank is a wise course of action.) A freshwater dip SHOULD NOT BE DONE on weak/dying fish as it tends to "finish them off". Other fish can have an adverse reaction, once returned to their aquarium, by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and place the fish in front of a wavemaker (ON LOW) to get saltwater flowing through the gills again. (y)

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Ugh, when a fish become moribund like that (laying on the bottom), it is usually too late to do anything.

Just to clarify, FW dips are really best used to diagnose flukes. They do not have much/any effect on ich trophonts. FW dips can buy you some time with flukes and Brooklynella, but don't have much benefit for bacterial disease, ich or velvet.

Is the tang breathing fast?

Jay

 

[Macimage]

Also from the same guidelines: note the last bit about helping distressed fish using flow from the power heads, hope that helps!!

Cons/Side Effects: Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are usually not thorough enough to eliminate all of the parasites/worms afflicting a fish. (So, followup treatment in a quarantine tank is a wise course of action.) A freshwater dip SHOULD NOT BE DONE on weak/dying fish as it tends to "finish them off". Other fish can have an adverse reaction, once returned to their aquarium, by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and place the fish in front of a wavemaker (ON LOW) to get saltwater flowing through the gills again. (y)

Also from the same guidelines: note the last bit about helping distressed fish using flow from the power heads, hope that helps!!

Cons/Side Effects: Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are usually not thorough enough to eliminate all of the parasites/worms afflicting a fish. (So, followup treatment in a quarantine tank is a wise course of action.) A freshwater dip SHOULD NOT BE DONE on weak/dying fish as it tends to "finish them off". Other fish can have an adverse reaction, once returned to their aquarium, by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and place the fish in front of a wavemaker (ON LOW) to get saltwater flowing through the gills again. (y)

Thank you. I did try holding him in front of the flow earlier but unfortunately he is gone. Thank you for all your help.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Posting some guideline info here from HF that I tend to follow for FW dipping. Can you verify the procedure you did for fw dip.

What "Freshwater" To Use: There are 3 options:

1. RO or RODI (add a little saltwater to improve conductivity so that pH can be read accurately)
2. Water taken from a "clean" freshwater aquarium (non-acidic i.e. pH should be 7 or greater)
3. Dechlorinated tap water (non-acidic i.e. pH should be 7 or greater)

^^ With all of the above, pH should be raised to ~ 8.0 before placing fish in the dip water. This can be accomplished by using supplements (available at most LFS) or you can “bake” your own DIY supplement by using baking soda. Spread baking soda onto a clean baking sheet, and bake at 300F for 1 hour. This process drives off carbon dioxide and water from the baking soda, and the result is an effective pH booster. You will need to experiment (start with a very small amount) to determine how much is needed to raise your pH to the desired level.

How To Treat: Fill a bucket with freshwater, and use a heater to match temperature to the fish's source water. Aerate the water heavily (by using an airstone or small powerhead pointed towards the water surface) for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip; and then reduce (or even discontinue) aeration while performing the dip. Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, certain fish (e.g. tangs) are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch the fish's gills (they should be breathing heavily), and keep the fish upright & swimming at all times! If breathing slows, or the fish refuses to get up after chasing (BUT NOT TOUCHING) it with your hand, then it’s time to exit the dip! Dip the fish for no more than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish 24-48 hours to recuperate in-between freshwater dips.

Here is our updated post/thread on FW dips:

Freshwater Dips

“Freshwater dips” (FW Dips) are commonly used to dislodge certain parasites from the skin of marine fishes. This is more of a diagnostic tool, and less of a permanent cure. Dips can be used to lower the parasite load temporarily, while waiting for another treatment to begin. Looking at the...

www.reef2reef.com

Jay