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That is looking really good! It loves your tank! Do you know about how much light you are giving it?Top down progression Dec-Jan
I don't know exact par levels but based on other people's measurements I estimate par would be at least 500.That is looking really good! It loves your tank! Do you know about how much light you are giving it?
Whiskey
I don't know exact par levels but based on other people's measurements I estimate par would be at least 500.
It is 12" directly below a 400w 20K Radium metal halide bulb run on an Icecap electronic ballast. The bulb is about 6" from the surface and the frag is 6" below the surface.
Adam of Battlecoral has said he "blasts" his frags with light. So, I chose a spot with the highest amount of light I could give -- on top of a Montipora colony! No acclimation. Just plopped it into place because I knew it was coming from a high light environment already. That's one reason it took off so fast.
This is from Battlecoral's web site:
Placement Flow & Feeding:
Another question I get asked very often is about placement and I always have to give the snobby answer but it's true. So here it is:
My propagation tanks are only 12 inches deep and just about everything in them is getting blasted. I mean BLASTED! The only real variation I have in intensity is to move corals to the outer edge if it seems like they would be happier in less light. I have found with the exception of only a few light-sensitive sps, that everything I have, will adapt to almost anywhere they are, as long as they are getting plenty of light and flow. Another one of the advantages to captive sps, they tend to be more resilient and adaptive than any wild cut piece could ever be. I have excessive amounts of flow in all my systems. Nothing's aimed directly at any coral, but I have very high flow everywhere and my acros love it.
I don't feed my sps directly at all. I have tried a number of different-sized particulate food and various amino's over the years and I can't say that I have ever really witnessed any visible effect other than the hyper population of aptasia's at times. I am in the "feed your fish heavy" camp and don't forget to keep it simple. The more "stuff" you think you need to put in your water, the more variables you have to eliminate when there is a problem.
My nitrates run at 10 mg/l and phosphates at 0.1ppm.That is a very information filled post! Thank you! I don't have anywhere in my tank that gets that kind of light I don't think. My tank tops out at about 400 PAR across the top, and my coral is probably in 250 right now if I measured it. This is absolutely more support for moving it up.
Do you tend to run higher nutrient levels?
Thank you!
Whiskey
I also put mine in high light spot from the get-go and it stayed colored up and started growing right away. Maybe that's the secret... don't like acclimate BC corals.
This is wild and impressive, nice job!
Color and growth probably won’t be as significant, but it won’t die. More than likely it will grow well in 200 par as long as you keep your parameters stable.I wish I could give it more light but my lamp is maxed. What will happen if it doesn't get around 500 par? Is it going to be color that is most affected or can it eventually die?
That's right about where I try to land, I would not consider that to be high at all.My nitrates run at 10 mg/l and phosphates at 0.1ppm.
Now that this subject is up, I think I tested nitrates twice on my tank since its been up lolThat's right about where I try to land, I would not consider that to be high at all.
Thank you!
Whiskey
Don’t forget the rulerOfficial picture for January 2023. @lynn.reef.nerd @Reefing102 @BranchingHammerManaged to put it in an even dumber place to photograph, however, it was necessary because my vivid's confetti went on a growth spurt and was about to start touching it.