pics of my 40 breeder plumbed and running water through it

[MattN]

here is a few pics of my tank after i got it plumbed and testing it with just reg water to make sure there was no leaks....happy to say there is no leaks and everything is working good...cant thank sluf enough for drilling the tank for me and all the helpfull advice everyone had gave me

 

[SLUF681]

Looking good!

 

[MattN]

thanks

 

[Ole Man]

Job well done Matt,very sanitary looking good job, should give you many years of enjoyment and service.

 

[MattN]

Thanks...thats the first time i have ever plumbed anything

 

[Genesis Corals]

Great job.

 

[Engloid]

It does look good, but.....that check valve you used....well...they don't work. They will gurgle and not stop the water flow. I showed Buddy a video the other day of water going through a 1/2" clear hose. It was just between two garbage cans of water, and the water was leveling out to get equal water level....THROUGH THE CHECK VALVE. Make sure you have a siphon break, because you can't count on those valves to do anything other than slow the backflow. I would also recommend that you put in a sock filter. I love those things.

 

[SLUF681]

I just lost about 60-70 gallons of water out of my tank and into my floor a few weeks ago because of a check valve that failed when the power went out. Definitely use a siphon break.

 

[MattN]

Whats a siphon break....i have my 2 returns up at the top of the water as well so if it does fail it will only drain a few gallons ...my sump is a 20 long and it only has a total of like 12 gallons in it when running

 

[SLUF681]

A siphon break is when you drill a hole in your return line at the surface, or just below, to allow air into the system to break the siphon. If your loc-lines are at the surface you don't really need to worry about it.

 

[Engloid]

A siphon break is when you drill a hole in your return line at the surface, or just below, to allow air into the system to break the siphon. If your loc-lines are at the surface you don't really need to worry about it.

If the END of the the lockline is at the surface... Most people angle them downward, and if I'm not mistaken, lockline is tight enough to seal up and siphon without leaking enough air in to stop it. In other words, your tank may siphon down to where the opening is on your return outlet. As he said though, if it's right at the surface, it will break siphon soon as water level gets below it and there won't be any problem. You basically need some place near the water surface that will suck in air during a power outage and stop the siphon. If its above water level, it may make noise when power is on. If it's too far below, it will allow more water to siphon down to your sump. I like to make them just below water surface, maybe 1/8" below. Typically, your overflow will allow more water level drop than that, so you're good on noise and still will break siphon before the overflow stops.