Here’s the RO/DI bin
here’s the salty bin.
here’s the salty bin.
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The ro water will stink to high heaven in a day or two.The salty side has a circulation pump now. The water is already brown but that’s good. I’ll be changing the water daily anyway.
So far the RO/DI side is clear as a bell.
Hopefully I can figure out how to mitigate that but, sadly, you’re probably right. No matter how it turns out I’ve learned my lesson. I’ll stick to saltwater no matter how dead the rock seems.The ro water will stink to high heaven in a day or two.
Lots of air and a skimmer will help some. All the die off will stink as it rots.Hopefully I can figure out how to mitigate that but, sadly, you’re probably right.
I expect that on the salt side also but it will definitely begin on the RO/DI side first.Lots of air and a skimmer will help some. All the die off will stink as it rots.
Logically speaking, in this scenario, using Lanthanum Chloride should do what you are hoping it will. I am interested in seeing if the leeching process will speed up.Good news. The water is clear in both bins and there’s very little sediment in the bottom of the bin. Bad news, phosphorus is over the limit still. Of course that’s to be expected since the rock’s been in that system for years it’s got years worth of phosphates and nitrates in it.
Since I’m keeping the salty side, well, salty I’m thinking about adding a couple of smaller pieces from the freshwater bin and adding them to the salty bin. Then any good bacteria that might have survived can colonize those rocks. Once I can get a reading below 200 ppb of phosphorus I’m going to trap some bristle worms and release them into the bin to help remove anything that didn’t get dislodged by the curing process. I’ll also add a rock from my sump that has plenty of pods.
@Lost in the Sauce, @tbrown3589, and @fishguy242 do you think it would be stupid of me to use some LaCl at this point to drop the phosphate levels in the saltwater bin? My thinking is that if I do I could get twice as much phosphate out of the rock each day. Phosphates in the rock and in the water column always seek equilibrium. The LaCl only reduces what’s in the water column but once that phosphate is gone the rock and water will seek equilibrium again and phosphates will be lower. But it might be a stupid thing so please let me know what you think
Me too. I’ll keep everyone posted.Logically speaking, in this scenario, using Lanthanum Chloride should do what you are hoping it will. I am interested in seeing if the leeching process will speed up.
I’ll probably end up going with GFO once I get my phosphates down more. As I understand it I’d be replacing it almost daily at the extremely high phosphate levels the rock is at.However you are pulling phos out of the water, is pretty much fine since there's no other life in there The rock will be leaching it back out but I have no idea what the timeframe is to reach equilibrium. Personally, id be using gfo for this as it will continue pulling and pulling as the rock releases it, until depleted.
I get a few months out of my dual reactor, running 24/7 with ~2 cups each.I’ll probably end up going with GFO once I get my phosphates down more. As I understand it I’d be replacing it almost daily at the extremely high phosphate levels the rock is at.
I’m just using LaCl as its cheaper. Since its a hammer of a solution and I kind of need a hammer here. I thought I’d do it this way until I get to 0.5 ppm then switch to GFO. I want to run it in my system too, not just for the rocks.
Since I have you here how long does GFO last for all of you who run it? Obviously your systems have far fewer phosphates than my rock bins have.
That sounds like a plan. I’d rather use straight ammonia than ghost feed especially since there’s still a ton of phosphate in the rock in that bin.I would guess you've killed anytime beneficial in the rock that was sitting in RODI. It will regrow, but you need to feed it. Have you considered dosing straight ammonia?