Mark
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Thanks! I just like hearing how folks approach their tanks, especially those that are in my opinion more natural in appearance and function.
OrionN's 320 Reboot
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Thanks! I just like hearing how folks approach their tanks, especially those that are in my opinion more natural in appearance and function.
TexasTodd
Valuable Member
Nice Minh, there's a decent article in this month's National Geographic on how giant clams pull pathogenic bacteria out of tank water! Pretty cool. I've always felt they helped a tank overall.
I skim wet and do my topoff with a constant kalk drip too.
I skim wet and do my topoff with a constant kalk drip too.
Hi minh,
Is there a post where you explain how you think about fish diseases in terms of sourcing fish and conditioning new fish? What diseases do you treat for/not treat for? Do you see evidence of diseases in your tank? Just curious and want to learn.
Is there a post where you explain how you think about fish diseases in terms of sourcing fish and conditioning new fish? What diseases do you treat for/not treat for? Do you see evidence of diseases in your tank? Just curious and want to learn.
OP
OP
I posted about how I keep and maintain my aquarium from time to time, but never just a thread on what I do or anything like that. There are many ways to skin a cat. Many reefer successfully keep beautiful reef aquarium. The only common things about successful aquarium long term are consistency. Reefers choose a way to keep their reefs and continue and diligently do it.
For me, I like a natural reef with a lot of fauna. Flora not so much in the DT, just in the large lighted sump.
I QT my corals, clams and anemones in isolated system. I have a 40 gal breeder reef that I use to QT. I find that corals especially SPS can come with nasty communicable disease, parasite that is impossible to treat other than in isolated HT. So are clams and anemones. That is the reason for QT for these invertebrates.
Fishes, not so much. I find that my fish can overcome petty much all the disease, if they are healthy. I have never treat any of my fish for internal parasites. Not that I don't thing there are no fish parasites, just that my fish rarely have visible problem with them. I don't add obvious sick fish to my tank other than those with ich to my tank. I find that Ich does not post a thread to my tank. I find that even if I add a fish full of ich to my tank, the infestation will disappear in a few week. Rarely a few spots would appears on my resident fish. I do have PBT, which many reefer consider a ich magnet, in my DT. He is the absolute king of my tank.
I don't keep cleaner wrasse in my tank, but often have cleaner shrimp pair. They produce free live food for my tank. One of the two always with eggs. Right now, I don't have any, but like to get a pair soon.
For fish, I don't really QT for disease. I just keep them separate, either in my sump or in my QT system. Mainly to get them use to eating captive food and gain weight before I release them into the competition with my other fishes in my DT. I only treat any disease that I diagnose, never prophylactic treat a fish. I have not treat any fish, for a few years. I do have a 20 gal HT with everything ready for treatment of any animal. Light, PH, Heater ect.. all ready to go if needed.
The last sick fish I added to my 65 gal DT (my office tank) a few years ago at less than 2 inches. Here he is now, in my 320 DT at home. He was a MO fish come in sight unseen, emaciated and full of ich as you can see. He is 7 inches king of my tank at this time.
There are many ways to keep a tank, mine is certainly not the only way, but it works for me.
I cannot find the original picture (will add later) when I fish added him but here are the pictures from 4/18 and 4/19/2020
Initial picture 04/2018
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OP
OP
I often don't have the time to look at my tank in the late afternoon. It is the best time in my tank. All these wrasse strutting around the tank courting the females. I took out my camera and got a few pictures. I don't do anyting special for picture, so please excuse the sand storms and dirty glass. Enjoy.
My Male China Wrasse. Normal coloration and when he is courting the female:
Normal coloration
Nuptial coloration
My Male China Wrasse. Normal coloration and when he is courting the female:
Normal coloration
Nuptial coloration
OP
OP
My Meleagris Leopards today. Female and Male, normal coloration and nuptial coloration
Female
Male, normal coloration with burn orange base color, near face and dark bluish base color on body
Nuptial Coloration. a lot of the base color turn bright blue. The fish become much brighter blue color in general swimming vertical and follow the female.
Female
Male, normal coloration with burn orange base color, near face and dark bluish base color on body
Nuptial Coloration. a lot of the base color turn bright blue. The fish become much brighter blue color in general swimming vertical and follow the female.
OP
OP
My Purple Haddoni today:
My 3 Crocea. I tried to put them in my DT, but my angels would have none of this. Got several chunks out of the mantels so back they go to the Sump/Refugium. I may have to get the Regals out of DT.
My 3 Crocea. I tried to put them in my DT, but my angels would have none of this. Got several chunks out of the mantels so back they go to the Sump/Refugium. I may have to get the Regals out of DT.
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I do have a screen top on my tank. Wrasses, especially Fairies and Flashers love to jump. Multiple times a day my wrasse would hit the screen.
OP
OP
Quick phone pict of my sump
OP
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I got an old Kessil 350 and 3 Home Depot LED daylight spot lights. These are either 90 or 100 W equivalent.
they grow corals very well and give great colors.
The stem of the Kessil is really robust. I am thinking of adding a 4th spot light to accomodate my Purple Gigantea with, IMO, does not get enough light on the edge. The clips are a little flimsy so I zip tied them to the rod thus there is no accidental fallen off. These light are all on the same timer on a GFCI outlet. I need to tied up the cord. It is in my fish room so I was not too concern with the look. just to keep it out of the way, and away from the water.
Picture just now, before the light turn on.
The fish line is a suspended GARF Bonsai. Growing well and with good color. The Gigas grew of 2 inches to almost 7 inches under this set up since 7/2019. The long axis of the container he is in is 7.5 inches.
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Sorry it took me a while to collect these information. I bought them several years ago.
Ecosmart LED Lamps from China
They were on sale at Home Depot ~3 years ago. I used them daily without fail for the last 3 years. 12 hrs per day
19 Watts 120 watts equivalent
Plectrum 5000 Kelvin
OP
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I use the 3 dollars light fixture
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@TexasTodd
I tried but not able to find this same bulb anymore. However, I would not hesitate to use this bulb. Mainly get one that is rated for our door, wet location, and 5000K+. These are so cheap, only about $10 or so per bulb. Mine lasted for ever.
I tried but not able to find this same bulb anymore. However, I would not hesitate to use this bulb. Mainly get one that is rated for our door, wet location, and 5000K+. These are so cheap, only about $10 or so per bulb. Mine lasted for ever.
Cree 150-Watt Equivalent PAR38 Daylight Dimmable Exceptional Light Quality LED 40-Degree Flood Light Bulb, 5000K TPAR38-1805040FH25-12DE26-1-11 - The Home Depot
We believe you deserve to experience exceptional lighting in your home. That's why Cree LED bulbs are engineered to work better and last longer. The Cree PAR38 LED bulb delivers a bright white (3000K)
www.homedepot.com
OP
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I used these as spot lights for my DT in addition to the 8 Radions over my 6 foot tank. I have had 10 of these lights spot on my Gigantea, Magnifica and clams before. The clams and anemone love the high light I provided for them.
OP
OP
I feed my tank with Nori clips, ad automatic pellets with two automated feeders. 8 times a day, in small amount. I also feed in AM with a mixture of frozen mysis and flakes food, a heaping teaspoon mixture of a variety of flakes and 1/2 cubic inch mysis. In the afternoons and weekend when I am home I crack open a frozen oyster and drop it in the tank, or a large frozen clam. I often bring a rock full of algae and put it in the DT for the fish to eat and remove it when almost all the algae is gone. Regrown in my QT until fill again.
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