Official Sand Rinse and Tank Transfer thread

FunkyReef

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I’m so happy with that laser clear transfer pic set, so helpful for other movers planning large tank work

you didn’t use any bottle bac, right?

it’s so helpful to see that all reef tank cycles are linked in predictable, exact control since we are all dealing in stacks of rock in a display

that final arrangement, if done cloudless like you did, will transfer skip cycle any reef tank we can see it in the patterns

by not using bottle bac here we show that wet rocks will do just fine in retaining all needed bacteria + ammonia- consuming animals
Not only did I not use any bottle bac, I used someone else’s old sand. Which from my understanding is supposed to be a big NO NO.. 8th day in and everything is flawless, just started my new skimmer back yesterday. Water is still prestine without any additives, just replaced my filter sock a little sonner than I usually do :D
 

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How do yall rinse dry sand indoors with no hose since its 10 degree outside. I was using the tub but its not like i can submerge a hose end under the sand so it isnt working 100%. Just wondering if theres a simpler quicker way im not thinking of
 
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brandon429

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I had that same issue in my apartment, dont dump rinse water down the sink it will clog the drains

I had a big cooler set in the bathroom. A small bucket had sections of my rinse sand, and the cloud water was dumped into the cooler over and over from the rinse bucket. Then every five dumps I had to wheel the cooler out front and dump it


Here’s a quick sandbed exchange from CrazyDuck
 
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chrisd6

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Hi all,

I have had a fish only saltwater tank for going on 4 years now and came across this thread a few days ago. I hate to admit, my tank has been seriously neglected for the majority of its lifespan. I believe the last water change was around a year ago and the sand bed has not been stirred up in at least three years. The rocks were covered in gunk/detritus and some algae. The sand bed (which was approximately 4 inches thick) was caked in cyano.

Decided it is time to seriously devote my effort to this tank and also add coral and make it a true reef tank.

Given that I have (well, had) a very deep sand bed, I knew this method was the safest way to fix my situation.

I did some things a little different than outlined here, but I believe it is still in the same spirit.

I ordered new sand, which I spent three hours rinsing last night. I bought new sand as my previous sand was absolutely disgusting, but furthermore I believe this helped minimize time the fish were outside of the tank, as I was able to rinse the sand before tearing down the tank.

This morning, I drained the tank and got to work cleaning. I left ALL of the equipment in place. The tank is a 20 gallon AIO cube and I did not touch the rear chambers at all.

First, I took the rock out and took a wire brush and got to work. I was not gentle with the rock at all and harshly scrubbed each rock clean. I then sprayed generously with hydrogen peroxide.

I then took a shop-vac and vacuumed the sand out of the tank. A note for anyone who might do this, remember to take your vacuum's filter off. I forgot and it is a mess.

Once the sand was removed, I wiped the entire tank with paper towels until I felt it was spotless.

Once clean, I took 15 gallons of old water and 5 gallons of new water and added the water and fish back to the aquarium.

I matched salinity but since there are no corals I did NOT match temperature. The temperature of the tank when I added the fish was 72 and I keep them at 78.

Added fish back and, while it has only been 2 hours since I finished, everything seems fine. Fish show no signs of stress.

I used majority old tank water merely out of convenience.

I had been keeping the salinity at 1.020 (laziness/neglect) and will be slowly raising it to 1.026 before adding coral.

Wanted to post my experience and share what I did as well as thank everyone here for the guidance/sharing their stories to make me feel confident doing this.

I forgot to take a before photo (which is probably for the best, I am not proud of the condition the tank was in) but attached is the finished product as well as a photo of the old tank water that the rocks were cleaned in. Disgusting.
GunAfterRipClean.jpg
TankAfterRipClean.jpg
 

Ado

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@brandon429
How would you tackle this situation? I've gotten quite a few answers x.x I'm upgrading my 40 breeder to a 200. The 200 has about 150 lbs of dry rock and I plan to add 120 lbs of new, special grade sand. Would 50ish pounds of live rock in sump and display make it skip cycle? Would love to add fish and rocks together.

I plan on matching temp and salinity, doing some dental work on the live rock and tossing into sump/display. Moving fish and inverts into a tote at this time.

Any tips? Thanks
 

mrpontiac80

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@brandon429
How would you tackle this situation? I've gotten quite a few answers x.x I'm upgrading my 40 breeder to a 200. The 200 has about 150 lbs of dry rock and I plan to add 120 lbs of new, special grade sand. Would 50ish pounds of live rock in sump and display make it skip cycle? Would love to add fish and rocks together.

I plan on matching temp and salinity, doing some dental work on the live rock and tossing into sump/display. Moving fish and inverts into a tote at this time.

Any tips? Thanks
I’m not Brandon but I did something similar last year. Went from a 65 gallon to a 180. I used a lot of new dry rock, new RINSED Caribsea live sand, and Fritz turbostart 900. I used probably 40 gallons of tank water from the 65 gallon and the rest was new salt water. I then moved every fish, cuc, rock and coral from the 65 over to the 180 and set my lights at 30% of what they were and saw zero losses. I increased the lights 3-5% every 2-3 days until I got them where I needed them.
 
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brandon429

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Fifty pounds of live rock will skip cycle any bioload we keep in a reef tank agreed.

It needs to be in the display though for at least a month after the transition

Then can move some down into sump. When ammonia builds in the display it needs immediate contact with active surfaces for quick handling vs having to wait until its piped down to the sump and back as processed water. The plan is good for sure, rinsing all the new sand will take hours done in sections but is worth the work
 

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I used this method this week to consolidate and reset my two nano tanks. I had fallen behind on maintenance of both tanks, 16g & 10g; the former had a bad case of hair algae while the latter was covered in bryopsis and bubble algae. Because life has become busier I decided it would be good to consolidate the two tanks and deep clean in the process. It took me most of Monday and some of Tuesday and now that Wednesday is here I think things are going well…

IMG_3096.JPG


No before pics but some to give you an idea of the state of things.

IMG_3084.JPG

IMG_3092.JPG


After transferring fish and corals to a temporary tank I made sure the 16g was sparking clean, basically like new. I used new sand that I thoroughly washed - not till crystal clear, I used some clarity in the tank to take care of the last dust cloud. I also used all new water.

I transferred the inhabitants of the 10g to their own holding tank and removed the rock work which was covered in thick matt of bryopsis and bubble algae - I removed as much as possible by hand, gave it a brush down and spray with H2O2. The idea was to get it as clean as possible so I can treat with fluconazole in a week or two and not have too much die off in the tank. I would’ve liked to do more targeted scraping but with so much to do I was feeling pressed for time.

I acclimated the 10g fish and introduced them on Monday night; the 16g fish went in Tuesday night - I’m hoping the two clownfish will pair/get along; they are different sizes. There has been a bit of chasing but I’m keeping a close eye on them. There is also a hasselts’s goby and a few small cave gobies which I’m hoping won’t contribute much to the bioload. It was quite nerve wracking but this thread gave me the confidence in the resilience of the microbiology to go ahead. Now to stay on top of maintenance. Anyone with fluconazole advice? How long do you think I should wait?

IMG_3101.JPG
 
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brandon429

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why did you put a reef in that
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Thank you so much for posting that perfect work

It’s the most thorough clean I’ve seen in a while, will also link your work to two other work threads for others to study that is sharp reef control wow
 

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I am planning on upgrading from a 42g (2.5 years old) to a 110g (when I get final permission, of course). The one thing that I have that may help is an external refugium. That refugium is around 16g and has a "cooked" rock. So, if I take down the current 42g, put the fish and corals in a big tub, move the current rock to the 110g that has NSW and connect the external refugium, would that help stabilize things?

The 110g is going into the same place as the 42g...only place I can really put it.

I will add new sand, of course. I also need to add a lot more rock and that will probably be dry. Should I cook that ahead of time? Looking to minimize the uglies. I beat them in my 42g.

I'm still in the early planning stages.
 
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brandon429

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If you don’t disturb the sandbed in a Refugium you can move it and attach it to a new tank. The main thing is not transferring unrinsed display sand, so the skip cycle benefit can continue in pattern

Excellent tests planned and underway here am thankful for the thread motion
 

BR260354

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If you don’t disturb the sandbed in a Refugium you can move it and attach it to a new tank. The main thing is not transferring unrinsed display sand, so the skip cycle benefit can continue in pattern

Excellent tests planned and underway here am thankful for the thread motion
The external refugium has no sand. Currently I pump water from my sump to the refugium and it gravity feeds back. It's more or less a second display. I figure this could give me a head start.

Once I have the new aquarium plumbed in and ready to go, do I use any water from the old system....take the water from the big tub?

Yes, this is a great thread. I'm mapping out my plan in a document trying to be detailed as possible. I appreciate everyone's time!
 
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brandon429

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All new water matching temp and salinity is 90% of the jobs outcome here so that is ok, and for systems where no invasion challenge was underway it’s for sure ok to use old tank water.
 

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I have a 75g that’s been up a month. Holds about 75 lbs of rock, 60 lbs of unrinsed sand.

Next weekend, I’m upgrading to 166g w/ a 30+ sump. The upgrade is a tank currently in use. It is an established tank with plenty of rock and sand (unsure if rinsed). I have to figure out a way to accomplish a few things.

The upgraded tank comes with a pair of yellow tangs that I would very much like to keep alive. I’m unsure how to plan for this. Do I keep the existing sand bed and just rinse it until it passes the glass test, or buy 160+ lbs of new and rinse. What do I do with the tangs while I’m rinsing the sand if I keep it? Would it be worth doing a complete rip clean on the upgrade?

Will have a 100g brute container. Could I put all the rock in there with the fish for a day or two while I rinse the sand thoroughly? Could I leave them in there for a few days while I take the rock out one piece at a time and scrape? I do not want to put the tangs in my 75, as the goal is to QT all of my fish before introducing them to the upgrade. Trying to plan all this out and feeling defeated already.
 
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brandon429

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Thank you so much for posting! Take good sequence pics for us and post the work updates pls, others will copy your work one day as someone else seeks tank combo planning on file

I’m very thankful to have transfer and combination jobs on the line here live time so we can keep using updated cycling science on these tanks to create auditable logs for the jobs after completion.

Here are my answers to what I predict will make a seamless skip cycle blend of your tanks:

—The upgraded tank comes with a pair of yellow tangs that I would very much like to keep alive.

-there will be a change in environmental stasis that keeps ich/crypto and other maladies under control if they’re asymptomatic in the current setup and being blended with portions of your current setup. Depending on your receiving tank’s disease preps -and- the current owners disease preps/fallow and qt history my main concern would be common disease outbreaks having nothing to do with cycle control. Am relaying this because I’m seeing an uptick in disease outbreaks that occur during substrate disturbances, cleaning and moves, in the fish disease forum and have mentioned that several times in discussions already. Since you have QT planned for them I think that’s great and you’ll likely be able to spot any changes and manage outside the main display until ready to integrate.



—Do I keep the existing sand bed and just rinse it until it passes the glass test, or buy 160+ lbs of new and rinse.

Makes no difference biologically. Pick whichever you prefer

I’ve tracked both approaches here and there isn’t any outcome difference between the two options. In my own 18 year old pico reef I’ve managed it solely by rip cleans and whether or not I’m replacing sand or using old doesn’t change the frequency of rip cleans needed to age out the system. I have to use rip cleans because the sand is six inches deep and the system fills up with waste every 18 mos or so since I don’t do interim cleaning.

I used to wonder if old sand being exposed to waste was an issue, it’s not in my opinion with several old sand reuse jobs on file now.

—What do I do with the tangs while I’m rinsing the sand if I keep it?

We like to hold in totes with lids so they cannot jump out, matching temp and salinity to their current water. The sand rinse part takes hours. I mean hours! They will likely need aeration and heat and some form of rock or seeded material from their current system in the totes that brings in no detritus but provides surface area for ammonia control. Either change some water if they’re going to be in there all day, or have some ammonia filtration ready as this is a ~6 or 8 hour prep detail.

One benefit of buying new sand is you can get it rinsed and ready in a clean pile long before you acquire the tangs. The tangs could just go right into the new setup with sand already prepped, and no hours long hold time.

If you might be able to have Qt seeded and active and ready, they could go into qt right then and that would reduce your rush time if choosing to go with old sand.


—Would it be worth doing a complete rip clean on the upgrade?

For sure yes, there’s no benefit in reefing to leaving old sand or rocks in place uncleaned and then moving them or transferring systems with waste laden materials even if you can usually do that without big losses. It’s a recycle risk to skip deep cleaning, and it’s an invasion outbreak risk to leave waste in place on rocks or sand, our exclusive results here come from putting every single tank through the exact set of prep steps.


—-Will have a 100g brute container. Could I put all the rock in there with the fish for a day or two while I rinse the sand thoroughly?

That part is unpredictable. It’s not going to crash due to ammonia in the brute with fish, but I’m not able to predict how they’ll handle that behaviorally, disease-wise or whether or not rocks that were relocated to the brute have any attachments on them (waste stores) that may be harmful.

—-Could I leave them in there for a few days while I take the rock out one piece at a time and scrape?

Same as above, it’s not an ammonia risk but has several other unpredictable factors involved.

I think your best bet would be to have a quarantine setup ready and cycled and matched for the bioload they’ll carry. Then you can store the rocks in a circulated brute and rasp scrape them over a few days as the new tank is being built up
 
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brandon429

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a bump for the thread because I am seeking more tank invasion jobs to run live time



I edited the intro speech on post #1 to try and introduce the topic that anyone who owns a nano reef and wants it to be uninvaded by tomorrow can have that result. it's also a silent implication that if they choose to be invaded day by day, for months on end after seeing our results, that it then becomes a matter of psychology vs reefing.

every entrant into this thread selected a mode of total command over their reef tank without hesitation or restriction on action. I'm trying to find more tank owners who are willing to act vs willing to still be invaded in October of 2024. for nano owners, it's easy due to tank size/easy access.

the people willing to join this thread are the same people who refuse to be that guy on the block who's front lawn is a total wreck while every other home is edged and kept straight up. nice lawns take work.

nice reef tanks take work when the going gets tough.
 
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littlefoxx

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If you are reading this thread to cure a tank invasion from a link I sent you, we do not need to identify your type of invasion here

we do not need you to test anything at anytime regarding nitrate, phosphate etc

Above all, we do not need to see a microscope slide picture of your invasion at the cellular level.

who cares what the species is of your invader-- it's about to be blasted out.

taking time to order a microscope, then extract pictures, and make a species ID is a form of action hesitation, hesitation in action causes wrecked tanks. we undo that habit system



Making your tank 100% clean so that it runs better and your corals start growing again due to the great water quality and feed you can now give has nothing to do with species ID at all.

fixing your tank so you didn't have to use chemiclean, or mess around with altering your phosphate and nitrate levels (thereby trading off the current invasion into a massive green hair algae one) did not require any species ID.


This is simply an action thread.




If you are reading this thread to move or upgrade your reef tank via skip cycle transfer science, we will prep your tank before the move so that you move only totally clean materials. the steps are still the same as those who are reading here for invasion fixes

you will skip cycle into the new setup

we don't use bottle bac here, bacteria will ride over on your rocks and that's all the bacteria we need for every job.




The Official Sand Rinse Thread

The best way to prepare your sand for use in a transferred reef tank, an upgraded reef tank, a reef tank under invasion etc is to put the sand in sections in a bucket and TAP WATER rinse it outside over and over with the garden hose until all the silt / waste is ejected, expect hours of work per bag (bagged sand wet or dry is filthy, see pic below)


when you rinse out new sand or old sand in tap water, to eject all it's waste, you have the option of using RO/DI as the final rinse (to eject tap water) or you can use saltwater to eject it. *mind your salinity drop: if you use RO/DI water, then you have several pounds of wet sand that is a large amount of freshwater about to be added back into your system, consider saltwater final rinsing or just wait and verify the salinity from a freshwater rinse before proceeding.


Your sand can have poisons and irritants in it that kill fish when disturbed, this is how we attained perfect results here with no losses, by never exposing sandbed waste clouds to your animals. this below is an example of what happens commonly when people stir up sandbeds in the presence of delicate fish or inverts:


we use tap vs saltwater or RO so that you don't run out, brief contact with tap water + a follow up rinse in RO or saltwater is just fine for your sandbed prep.



Rules of Reeftank microbiology that produced all our results:


The reason all these tanks don't die when rinsing out aged system sandbeds is because the rock bacteria are kept wet in saltwater, we're allowed to eject sandbed bacteria as needed.

the old rules that said sandbed bacteria were required for filtration control are wrong. rocks are enough.

once you think your rinsed sections are clean, place test handfuls in a clear cup of water and shine a light into it viewed from the side to ensure total cloudless rinse of each section, don't halfway do the job.

rinse to startling perfection. if you can't pass the cup test keep rinsing until no clouding forms in the test cup then do your final rinse in RO or saltwater, and that section of sand is now ripped clean and ready for reinstallation.



Yes, we rinse prep even brand new sand that comes in a bag no matter what it says on the label. if you don't rinse it, your new tank might be cloudy for weeks on end, they don't always self-clear as lucky peers relay to each other in sandbed posts.

if you are considering not rinsing your sand for use in a reef tank still do the cup test on the unrinsed handful, look what it does in the mini model









So your bag of sand says not to rinse

:)

tappp.jpeg

pic by pdxmonkeyboy


Our thread exists to prevent that clouding above.

A rip clean is not a restart anymore than an oil change is a new car. A restart means you’d have to do your cycle over


we maintain the original cycle: the entire point of this thread is to reveal that deep cleaning a tank doesn’t restart it and does not require the use of bottle bac or ammonia protection, like we’ve been taught in the past

we use microbiology here to guide the rules each tank applies. We dont use bottle bacteria

we don’t use testing for ammonia because we are in full control of what filter bacteria do in this thread, and a bunch of API ammonia misreads would only insert hesitation into a thread collection of pure action. there is no testing warranted here, this is an action thread solely.

We remove cloudy waste while controlling the cycle of the tank getting cleaned.



full rinsing is safest, that’s the rule. thats how we got our results here, for anyone's reef tank. they always turn out the same way: sparkling shocking clean and running great with bright happy corals.

We use tap water, not RO or saltwater to rinse sand beds: it’s tap water for a reason (because it's unlimited and you won't run out of water before verifying the sand is totally clean)








The steps here ran on every example link you can find are not different for any job, any size reef tank, or any reason for presenting here for live-time work detailing. it's amazing how many different reef jobs simply rinsing out the sand with tap water can accomplish.

you can run one of these cleanings on a perfectly normal reef tank, as a preventative. A rip clean is harmless waste ejection. Rip cleans are why my reef tank just hit 18 years running with no invasions at all-I'm sharing this longevity trick with reefs of all sizes to show how all our tanks are related, large to small reefs.









you can use this method to recover from tank crashes where other additives littered up the tank and yellowed the water and crashed the corals with degradation irritants, this cleaning approach flushes out a reef using common tap water and skip cycles an injured reef back to bright and shining and ready for stronger feed input (which is where the growth comes from)


if you have a GHA, green hair algae covered system you can rasp off rocks using a knife tip, not a brush, and rinse off in saltwater as your tank is disassembled. We clean sandbeds here: this is the most thorough sand cleaning thread on the Internet.


If you have filthy dinos, get the tank apart and make it not be 100% covered, then put all your focus into prevention. don't sit there with a wrecked tank for months on end when every example here is clearly showing you a better standard of reefing.


The whole purpose of this thread is to show you the biology of safe tank handling, transfer, cleaning and upgrades


how to physically handle reef substrates so your tank doesn't die.


rip cleaning is a reef tank medical procedure...what we do is reef tank dentistry and surgery

we flush out organics and we rasp off algae adhered to rocks during tank upgrades using metal tools, like a dentist scrapes tartar roughly and not gently but it's precision/we work around corals affixed on rocks like that


we rinse brand new reefs, day one assembly, to total cloudlessness to prevent that above. we don't skip rinsing the sand in tap water, as bad as that may sound initially

consider our results.

you're handling poky substrates in this thread



wear gloves and stuff so you don't harm yourself from electively keeping dangerous microbes as a hobby, you can get infections on your hands if you get cuts or scrapes handling reef materials as roughly as we handle them.

old sand has some risks associated with it due to bacteria built up and complexed with waste food stores, various states of oxygen etc (sandbeds have wildly varying chemistry depending on variables)



New sand from a bag, like pic #1 above, isn't a handling risk it's chalk dust clouding from sand grains that rubbed together and silted out during shipping and handling. some bags cloud worse than others, it's variable, not rinsing has variables.


this whole thread is tap rinsing reef sandbeds, its the #1 thing we do, and it's all wins.



your tank will at some point in this process be disassembled, it's what we do.


Make the glass this clean before you begin the re-setup process. ***if you have back wall or side coralline you want to preserve don't scrape it off during takedown leave it adhered and keep it wet for the rebuild. don't leave sand grains and mud stuck to the glass, be clean in this thread.
Shadow_k’s excellent build are the pics below.

wipe your glass down this clean before re assembly

watch out for scratches as you takedown and clean the system
35D08F56-E54B-4447-8782-02BFED81F9E9.jpeg





we never put a handful of old sand on top of your new sand. That adds clouding to a perfectly clean rinse and can transport fish disease components tank to tank. 1000% pure tap water rinsing is what we do, all sand used, new or old regardless of it's source. this is a sand rinse thread.





hidden risks from bacterial compounds and various states of decay are best kept out of the topwater, we have to take your tank apart vs work with the sandbed near your animals because the clouding in the sandbed can kill, we use a careful order of disassembly steps to prevent clouding sandbed waste from contacting your sensitive animals.






Look how clean I rinsed my pico reef's sandbed below, this is my glass cup test but in a vase:





DO NOT TRANSFER A HANDFUL OF OLD SAND INTO YOUR NEW TANK AS SEED


that can kill your reef by transferring fish disease or harmful compounds from sand waste in the unrinsed sand



here is a nano reef from DannoOMG that we ripped clean to move up as a skip cycle transfer to a larger new nano tank. we moved his current rocks and coral into a larger tank and we didn’t test for anything and we skipped the cycle: the new tank was instantly ready to carry animals

Brand new pre rinsed ocean direct live sand from caribsea was used for the new tank, the old sand was tossed out.

the old tank we are upgrading from

EAEAD842-00E6-44A9-85D6-659F5A9C46A7.jpeg



holding vat of water for corals and fish

223B2B5D-C6BE-4BCC-A7D4-4B170F3EFE4F.jpeg


here is the new bag sand getting rinsed in portion to total clarity

4318F89A-51C1-4C44-9880-672C977A0098.jpeg


rinse it over and over until clean. For hours, final rinse is in RO water until tap water is removed, the cloudless sand is now ready for use in the new tank and won’t cloud when you fill it up

The new tank has rinsed sand, fish and corals and rocks were ready to move over
7036ABA5-3D8C-4311-ABA4-7DAD73BFA89E.jpeg


some of the new made water from the yellow holding container was used to wash off rocks, before they moved into the new nano

algae was detail scraped off the rocks, they were swished clean in the clean water, then set back into the new tank to build this:


DF7932A7-F878-47F6-BFFC-22144071DF86.jpeg



now that’s shocking laser clean rip clean tank transfer!!

Look how much waste was the in the old tank: out of sight and up under rocks doesn’t mean free from consequence, sandbed waste fuels algae invasions


F067F7BA-9B72-49EF-B55E-E59AED2F22CB.jpeg

his tank is balanced and clean now. He’s re ramping up the lights safely and no bleaching will occur.


DannoOMG added pods into the tank after the rip clean transfer now his tank is better off than he was before




Cook’s job completed in 24 hours no algae left, totally clean sand, huge reef tank. Best rip clean for 2021

rip clean done on a nano that was power out for one week after storm Ida, and a rip clean is how you fix storm-damaged reef tanks. It’s also how you move them, or upgrade materials into a bigger reef, and it’s a way to fix cyano invasions and dino invasions we will show. Sandbed rinsing helps reefing in several different ways.





When tanks/seams break, we assemble back completely rinsed and clean systems for the skip cycle win, no bottle bac used thank you Hawk82

*******Notice every job we do here for fifty pages is the same disassemble, rinse, reassemble, don’t use bottle bac and for sure do not post any ammonia readings unless they’re from seneye******

we don’t like api or Red Sea ammonia tests here, anyone who owns a seneye is welcomed to post readings. Non digital test kits cause misread panic: look how well we do eliminating them from every job. The way you know we skipped the cycle in each job is because the reef stays alive and vibrant



Look how JD Inshore used rip cleaning to clear out mushroom coral overgrowth below




***you can remove aiptasias during a rip clean using that method above he used to remove 200 invasive ricordeas

see how the tank wasn’t invaded or out of balance? He only has mushrooms

we went ahead and rip cleaned it to buy more smooth running time

reefs work better without all the waste we collect in the sandbed

Rip cleaning is not harmful it’s a surgical process by which we can access reef tanks for various reasons and not cause recycles. several mushroom anemones were removed there and this works for aiptasia as well.












The opposite of Rip Cleaning: messing up the tank with cloudy rotten waste-

here's some in-tank sandbed work nearly killing the fish, soon after disturbance:
Dr. Tim here writes that over his years of experience he’s had several reports of sandbed disturbance killing the system.

a nano wiped out by disturbing the bed, inside the tank


Harmed tank by disturbing and unrinsed bed

Labored breathing fish after in- tank sandbed disturbance:


Why for fifty pages have we no losses like those?

We have designed an ordering of waste removal that prevents system crashes. This thread is exclusively that practice, opposite from the loss links above

notice in each work thread example, we do the same set of moves:

-carefully disassemble the reef without stirring up bed

-hold rocks and corals in one container, fish in another w inverts, and take the tank apart with the muddy sand and rinse it to 1000% perfection using cool tap water. final rinse on sand is RO, to evacuate the tap. now the sand is perfect

not 99% cloud free, 1000%



-swish rocks around in -saltwater- (we do care about live rock bacteria and that's all we need to run a reef) to jet out their waste. do not move muddy live rocks from a holding container into your cloudless reassembled reef. swish them free of attached detritus.

-Don’t use GFO and Chemi pure and waste absorbers in the new cleaned system, they’ll be over stripping. Wait weeks or months as needed before adding back absorbent cheats.

MUST KEEP YOUR LIGHT LEVELS REDUCED SEVERAL DAYS IN THE CLEAN SETUP to avoid coral bleaching


we have you match only temperature and salinity between the old and clean tanks, no other params need to align like pH or calcium/alkalinity

Dropping your light levels back to ramp up phase prevents coral bleaching in systems that had all their waste removed like we do, you must ramp back up your light power slowly over ten days to guide the corals back to full ability. Be using your newly cleaned tank to spot feed corals extra well


Rinsing New Caribsea wet pack live sand, ocean direct and Fiji pink:

we always rinse all sand the same way, whether it’s new or old, live or dry sand.

if you don’t pre-rinse your caribsea sand you risk this:



typical animal behaviors can cause ongoing headaches in unrinsed new beds.



We pre rinse all sand, all the time, that’s being transferred or going back into the final assembly setup



The true cause of the mini cycle is upwelling of waste and not lack of bacteria

we are able to control all these cycles not by additives or testing, we don’t use bottle bacteria here, we control cycles by controlling how waste is removed from the sandbed





Starting out a new tank with perfectly rinsed Caribsea sand


here's how long it takes to pre rinse effectively:

Pre rinse your new caribsea live sand before use

some bags of sand don’t clear like the label says they will

two days still cloudy

Pre rinse your new caribsea live sand because:
‘took months to clear’


more examples of tanks who didn’t pre rinse not clearing 48 hours
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/so-i-didnt-rinse.592624/
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/sandbed-stirred-up.544852/#post-5723606

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/very-cloudy-water-after-sand-and-rock.559386/#post-5735864
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/question-about-vacuuming-sand-bed.616059/ https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/new-tank-milky-cloudy.616519/

10 days, still won't settle and clouds fully
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/cloudy-tank.576835/

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/bummer-could-use-some-help.558301/




After a rip clean, your tank looks this good, and your pods arent dead they lived in the rocks as you rinsed the sand:

courtesy, Shadow_k from page 45

before rip clean:
rr1.jpg



After rip clean:
-I see pods all over now rocks sand i really thought they all died off haven’t seen them in months.
5816B7F6-4F43-4E87-B4BB-BC7B0D31B684.jpeg


r3.jpeg

this above is just after rip clean, and surgical precision sand rinsing Shadow did


heres one month later :)


CB8C650B-3EEE-46FA-97FA-B09DB6F6F049.jpeg







here are pods on the glass 2 days after a full tap water rinse of Shadow's sandbed:
--- it’s exciting to see things breathe in the tank my pods came back
465576B6-B8A6-468A-910A-F7126F7BBEA9.jpeg

just rinsed my sand until the water ran clear with tap. Am I missing anything??
 
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