Nuclear Biocube 32 Build
- Cube Build
- Thread starter Nuclear
- Start date
- Tagged users None
JustDewwit
One frag at a time
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2017
- Messages
- 312
- Reaction score
- 341
I don’t run a protein skimmer and dont plan to. Weekly water changes in this system will be fine.
I’m not using the stock filter pad or media tray. I bought the media rack from InTank for the Biocube 32. (This media rack is highly recommended by most.) it has 3 levels. Level 1 I use this floss I cut to size from amazon:
2nd level I’ll run Purigen and in 3rd level I’ll use chemipure elite. Also I believe with slight modification that skimmer would sit next to the InTank media basket.
For your lights. They should be completely off during the night. The 32 has a built in timer to make it easy. Channel 3 lights should run the longest, channel 2 less and then channel 1 even less. I run channel 1 for 10 hours (10am-8pm) channel 2 8am 830pm. And channel 3 6am-9pm. The lights ramp up and down. So my lighted hours on this time frame is 6am-10pm. Then completely dark from 10pm- 6am.
I don’t have an ATO yet but plan on running the Tunze 3155.
GSP stand for Green Star Polyps. It’s a coral that grows and spreads like weeds. It really need to be on an island rock, cause it’ll take over whatever it’s on. I like the look and movement of it so I intentionally put in an island for it when I did my aquascaping.
I’m not sure what PAR stands for, but it’s the measurement of intensity that your lights can produce. Certain corals need higher or lower intensity. Which can be adjusted for by being nearer or farther away from your lights, but if a coral needs more intensity than the light can even produce right next to it, then you won’t be able to grow that coral.
Suggestions: Get the InTank Media basket for the 32. Down by the return pump is a black sponge, pull it out and throw it away. It’ll become a nitrate factory. If your still cycling research and decide if you wanna buy bottled bacteria. (I’m using Seachem Stability) but there’s others you could choose as well. Watch lots of YouTube videos. Go slow.
Have you started a build thread to track and show progress? I find it very helpful and there’s lots of VERY knowledgeable people on here who can look over it and help you make beneficial tweaks. I highly recommended you start a build thread and update it often with pics and info. At a minimum it’ll be your reef tank diary. Something to look back on.
Exactly ,protein skimmer is not needed as long as you have consistent weekly water changes. Your tank is off great to things in the future. I love my 32 ,but change the lighting as soon as you can . The Biocube 32 Stock lighting is an algae bloom waiting to happen.
OP
OP
Nuclear
Community Member
The stock media rack and the InTank media rack are vastly different. The stock rack takes up the whole chamber 2. The InTank rack only takes up half of chamber 2 and is 4 sided so water has to flow through it. There’s a pic earlier in my build.
No water changes until cycle is over. Then weekly. I’m only using the filter floss (from amazon- see above) on level 1 of media rack so far. I won’t add Purigen and chemipure elite till I add livestock. I did pick up an ATO today. Probably post install pics tomorrow.
Seachem Stability can be used for cycling and or monthly. I’m only using it for the 7 day during cycling to kickstart the bacteria.
No water changes until cycle is over. Then weekly. I’m only using the filter floss (from amazon- see above) on level 1 of media rack so far. I won’t add Purigen and chemipure elite till I add livestock. I did pick up an ATO today. Probably post install pics tomorrow.
Seachem Stability can be used for cycling and or monthly. I’m only using it for the 7 day during cycling to kickstart the bacteria.
What would you recommend? I noticed mine beginning to grow a good amount.
I've provided a picture of mine with the stock chamber. It is flowing through it, so not sure what you mean.
OP
OP
Nuclear
Community Member
What would you recommend? I noticed mine beginning to grow a good amount.
I've provided a picture of mine with the stock chamber. It is flowing through it, so not sure what you mean.
The usual recommended light upgrade is Steve’s LED . Keeps the stock hood.
Zeal
2500 Club Member
I have the same one. If you look at it it says water line level.. careful
I live in las vegas so had an issue with heat. Removing the hood helped big time for me. You may not face the same issues
The usual recommended light upgrade is Steve’s LED . Keeps the stock hood.
OP
OP
Nuclear
Community Member
I live in Florida, so it gets hot, but we keep our house between 70 and 73... so I should be fine as is. The LED’s don’t seem too hot. But I’m definitely watching it.
JustDewwit
One frag at a time
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2017
- Messages
- 312
- Reaction score
- 341
@ Droidus . Change the lighting. I went with an HD Prime and immediately noticed a reduction in the algae. The stock lighting has to much red.What would you recommend? I noticed mine beginning to grow a good amount.
I've provided a picture of mine with the stock chamber. It is flowing through it, so not sure what you mean.
JustDewwit
One frag at a time
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2017
- Messages
- 312
- Reaction score
- 341
Pull the hood all together if you can and place a small fan a few feet away aimed at water with Hd Prime or similar. The top hood traps heat regardless and can cause unstable temperatures. Dont be afraid of live restock hopping out they usually won't unless they are stressed or harassed. All it takes is for the air conditioning accidentally not be turned on and it's over. Especially in Central Florida
OP
OP
Nuclear
Community Member
So, I have the best wife in the world! She got me an ATO for Father’s Day!
For Install, I put the sensor in chamber 3 (it has the most stagnant water of the whole tank and put the return water to pump into chamber 2. Set up and tested, all works great!
For Install, I put the sensor in chamber 3 (it has the most stagnant water of the whole tank and put the return water to pump into chamber 2. Set up and tested, all works great!
JustDewwit
One frag at a time
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2017
- Messages
- 312
- Reaction score
- 341
Doesn't get any better , Now that's a Fathers day giftSo, I have the best wife in the world! She got me an ATO for Father’s Day!
For Install, I put the sensor in chamber 3 (it has the most stagnant water of the whole tank and put the return water to pump into chamber 2. Set up and tested, all works great!
Thirdeyesight17
Active Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2018
- Messages
- 345
- Reaction score
- 171
The usual recommended light upgrade is Steve’s LED . Keeps the stock hood.
+1 to this I just installed Steve's LED's. Was a really easy install and easy to set up. You can immediately tell the difference over stock lighting. Added the
Iridescence option happy with the purchase.
OP
OP
Nuclear
Community Member
I’ve been trying to decide about the Steve’s L.E.D. option. Mainly just so I can buy whatever coral I like instead of what may or may not Work with stock lights. Still trying to decide what my overall plans are though for this tank. Cause right now my plan is this is a starting tank. Learn as you go. This is my first aquarium ever. Didn’t even do freshwater. lol but ultimately I already know I wanna get Atleast a 125 gallon tank. So may just leave it as is and grow what I can. Learn about testing and everything to set myself up nicely for the dream tank.
Flexin
Well-Known Member
I took egg crate and enclosed the bottom portion of the stock media basket. Added a grow light to the outside and black taped the glads so I don’t have the glow. The refugium has been working great ever since. Simple mod and more area for chaeto growth.
Similar threads
