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This is ich and as you may know, you will need to set up a separate tank for quarantine. Treat with Coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25-2.5 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.I’m not sure anymore what is wrong with my fish, thought Ick but now think it’s velvet. Fish are in hypo 1.009
So are to tell, stuff floating in the tank makes it hard to take pictures
I have Cupramene but I can’t do that with hypo, right?
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Both fish are eating well, the tang is a pig. Currently both fish look ok and are swimming around good, slime coat looks a little weird, only a few spots on the tang and maybe one on the angel. They won’t stop moving long enough to get a good pictureAre the fish breathing fast and not eating and hovering in water currents? Is so, that’s most likely velvet and copper is the best treatment for that. Hypo doesn’t work for velvet.
I can’t see the discrete ich trophont spots, but maybe they aren’t showing up well in the pics? With light cases of ich, the fish will still be eating and breathing normally.
UV will not cure velvet, and will not cure moderate to heavy ich infections. It should only be used as one component of ich management.
Jay
I just got it there today so not even 8 hours, i’m going to let tank run at 1.009 for the 30 days as long as they don’t get worse. If worse i guess I will half to try cupramineHow long has the tank been at 1.009?
I wouldn’t run Cupramine with hypo, but people have done it with Coppersafe - I try not to run both at the same time though.
Jay
Oh! You may not see any real improvement for the first 72 hours, sometimes a bit longer.I just got it there today so not even 8 hours, i’m going to let tank run at 1.009 for the 30 days as long as they don’t get worse. If worse i guess I will half to try cupramine
Soaking in FW for 24 hours and then air drying completely works for protozoans. Neobenedenia fluke eggs are sticky and tougher to kill - bleach solutions work better. 1:10 bleach (plain bleach, no additives). Soak for 30 minutes and rinse REALLY well.Question on cleaning equipment used in the ICK tank that I need to use in my non-ick tank. Is wiping and rinsing with fresh water and drying enough? I don’t want ick or velvet in my other tank
Try taking a video. A video longer than one minute under white light up close to the fish, showing both sides of the fish would be helpful. You can upload the video to YouTube then post the link to it here.They won’t stop moving long enough to get a good picture
setting one up todayShould have done the UV
Can you post a video of the fish under white light? Discrepancies between testing devices is pretty common - do you have access to a third method to see if there is any consensus?Second guessing my salinity, hanna reads 1.009, refractometer reads 1. 010, ICK looks worse, now on the Tang’s eye. Should I reduce salinity more?
Tang’s fins starting too looking a little beat up
Fish are still eating well, NOT hiding at the surface of the tank
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will doCan you post a video of the fish under white light? Discrepancies between testing devices is pretty common - do you have access to a third method to see if there is any consensus?
Siphoning off the surface of the sand at night will remove tomonts which UV will not do. What happens is that the tomonts release theronts which infect the fish. UV only kills theronts, but because these theronts hatch out at night and infect the fish directly, many of them never even pass through the UV.
We should work on getting a firm diagnosis here - I didn’t see trophonts in your first images…
Jay
Both devices need calibration. Best to calibrate each before comparing their results.hanna reads 1.009, refractometer reads 1. 010