Nitrate

[rtparty]

Im not understanding how a discussion on the “censored word” ratio will help the OP resolving his current issue with nitrates, I believe there is places on the forum to do that. (Or used to)
Meanwhile, wouldn’t it be more productive and friendly to just try and go back to the focus of the thread? that is the rise in nitrates. Were the OP may require some assistance and option into find solution to lower nitrate without affecting his phosphate as I believe it’s within acceptable range.

The OP literally brought up the Redfield ratio and how fixing that ratio would help/solve their algae issue. That is false and a very poor way to go about fixing the algae issue.

I can’t think of a single scenario where someone solved their algae, dinos, diatoms, cyano, you name it issue by getting nutrients into a certain ratio. Maybe later I will write up my post of why using or chasing a made up ratio is dumb

 

[sixty_reefer]

The OP literally brought up the Redfield ratio and how fixing that ratio would help/solve their algae issue. That is false and a very poor way to go about fixing the algae issue.

I can’t think of a single scenario where someone solved their algae, dinos, diatoms, cyano, you name it issue by getting nutrients into a certain ratio. Maybe later I will write up my post of why using or chasing a made up ratio is dumb

I agree with you although, Those views are to be discussed in other places as you just mentioned, on a help thread a polite justification should be sufficient imo.

 

[GARRIGA]

As to the Redfield Ratio, BRS made a point about discussing that and perhaps why often asked. Did get me going down that rabbit hole. Learned not to take everything BRS promotes serious without further research. They often mean well without fully knowing well...

 

[Doctorgori]

intended. In a reef tank with fed fish it is nearly impossible to “bottom out nutrients”, maybe less that 1% of systems imo would ever suffer from to little N and P

related: I’ve never figured out what up with the phosphate/nitrate dosing vs. overfeeding a lil more…
.
I’ve been reading up but can’t figure out why the whole thing needs that much fine tuning. My best conclusion is the stickheads are chasing colors…

This is a “new” problem that seems to be vogue for new hobbyists to give advice. The simple solution to algae has not changed in decades. Clean your tank, keep inorganic nutrients low as possible, manually remove all algae, large CUC, and WC.

Related 2: Sometimes I think those “my phosphate/nitrates have bottom out, and oh my what will I do” threads have a “I’ve arrived and my sticks are growing fast” vibe to them IMHO

I'm also with those that feel that you might be overfeeding just a little. Three cubes of frozen even in a 115 seems like a lot of food to me.

Simple solution,.
I admit, I’ve been very guilt of shortcuts: Peroxide, Algae fix, even Vibrant … but I’m a firm believer in solving the root cause and let nature take its course….


Without neglect VERY hard to maintain a algae overrun tank

Needs 18 hours minimum. Low power yes, but white is not really helping, its just for viewing.

The oceans are lit by white light, most places aren’t overrun by hair algae. Something besides the white light isn’t helping either

 

[sixty_reefer]

As to the Redfield Ratio, BRS made a point about discussing that and perhaps why often asked. Did get me going down that rabbit hole. Learned not to take everything BRS promotes serious without further research. They often mean well without fully knowing well...

The “censured word” has lots of strong feelings attached to it. But it can be used without mentioning it, just as I do, in every thread that requires help with nutrientes, including this one. I don’t think it’s necessary to confuse folks with to much info.

 

[Jason Coy]

My problem with this is why jack with lighting when the issue is something else? Also the reality is the sun is 5000K or white light. I think we have been lighting our tanks blue for so long we forget the actual environment our stock is from isn’t 20K blue with a pH of 8.3, alk @ 10.3 and a constant temperature of 78F

While I agree that most corals are found in whiter light than we have in our tanks, it is also true that the different chlorophylls absorb light primarily in certain wavelengths, mostly blues and a little red. I forget the wavelengths but I want to say around 400-480ish and for red around 630ish to 660ish

 

[Doctorgori]

While I agree that most corals are found in whiter light than we have in our tanks, it is also true that the different chlorophylls absorb light primarily in certain wavelengths, mostly blues and a little red. I forget the wavelengths but I want to say around 400-480ish and for red around 630ish to 660ish

Agreed….and I’m derailing here but I’ve seen the assorted studies on this and I’ve never seen full spectrum addressed from a biological need issue, but only from a phytoplankton need/feed angle…
there is a HUGE difference between what a animal needs for nutrition vs what the whole biological need is…

We don’t eat sunlight but we need it to process vitamin…
similarly a coral needs blue light to feed but is that all.

 

[Seansea]

Scrubber is new and just getting seeded. I had a make shift refugium but was not doing well. So switched to a scrubber. Light cycle is 10 hours but only at 45% of power and very low on whites and reds

So it's just starting that explains your algae troubles. Are you talking about your tank lights or your display lights. Scrubber should be 100% and lots of reds and whites. I run mine 18 hours a day and alot od when the display tank lights are off. Will boost your ph at night. Give it a month or so when Scrubber starts seeding and your algae days are over.

 

[Reefahholic]

100% white light grows corals faster, but I’ve never ran white only without blues/violets. I just know white is important if you want better/faster growth. I like full spectrum.

As far as overfeeding to increase the PO4 or NO3…I’m not a fan, because I feel it dirties up the tank. It’s also difficult to predict where the levels will go. Dosing is much more precise.

 

[library 112]

So it's just starting that explains your algae troubles. Are you talking about your tank lights or your display lights. Scrubber should be 100% and lots of reds and whites. I run mine 18 hours a day and alot od when the display tank lights are off. Will boost your ph at night. Give it a month or so when Scrubber starts seeding and your algae days are over.

Was talking about tank display lights. Yeah scrubber is full blast running 20 hrs cycle Currently once it’s fully seeded I’ll drop a few hours.