New Tank Cycling Question
- Thread starter MB_Reef
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MB_Reef
Active Member
@brandon429
2/12 Parameters:
Ammonia: 1-2ppm (Looks like less than yesterday)
Nirite: No clue, color is hard to tell. See picture.
Nitrate: Between 20 and 40
pH: Seems slightly lower today. 7.8-8
2/12 Parameters:
Ammonia: 1-2ppm (Looks like less than yesterday)
Nirite: No clue, color is hard to tell. See picture.
Nitrate: Between 20 and 40
pH: Seems slightly lower today. 7.8-8
That’s amazing, separate from the reading nobody would claim that’s a reef in distress
if you started a post with just the tank, no readings, everyone would be remarking how healthy it looks
this is a live time case study in zero toxicity seen with the eye in direct contrast to a misread on api, known to misread given certain variables
valuable thread
it’s amazing to watch the corals open normally, fast flow across surfaces
all the actions that lend ammonia control
what you are seeing has contributed in my opinion millions of dollars to the bottle bac industry unnecessarily
based on the notion that a reef tank being fed daily carrying life daily, well past the close cycle date for similar tanks would fail to carry life if we didn’t buy their product.
those updates are so valuable truly.
if you started a post with just the tank, no readings, everyone would be remarking how healthy it looks
this is a live time case study in zero toxicity seen with the eye in direct contrast to a misread on api, known to misread given certain variables
valuable thread
it’s amazing to watch the corals open normally, fast flow across surfaces
all the actions that lend ammonia control
what you are seeing has contributed in my opinion millions of dollars to the bottle bac industry unnecessarily
based on the notion that a reef tank being fed daily carrying life daily, well past the close cycle date for similar tanks would fail to carry life if we didn’t buy their product.
those updates are so valuable truly.
I guarantee you industry top people, bloggers with followers and chemists are watching this thread.
skeptically
very neat representation of what the vast majority of cyclers have been experiencing as well as future cyclers who use these kits.
I guarantee you it will not crash. corals don't open prominently in bad water. your tank looks excellent for a reason.
makes me wonder about other aspects in reefing who get the luxury of using digital gear / how they'd roll if we repealed digital readings and instead replaced them with 2005 color gradient test kit guesses relayed as fact:
-how would precision nitrate and phosphate turning fare if there were no low range digital meters, all those dinos threads depend on precision tuning of nitrate and phosphate.
-how would chemistry models that require accurate pH be affected if we repealed all digital tracking and calibration and only allowed tank planning based on api or red sea pH kits
only cycling is expected to always believe the non digital test kit.
skeptically
very neat representation of what the vast majority of cyclers have been experiencing as well as future cyclers who use these kits.
I guarantee you it will not crash. corals don't open prominently in bad water. your tank looks excellent for a reason.
makes me wonder about other aspects in reefing who get the luxury of using digital gear / how they'd roll if we repealed digital readings and instead replaced them with 2005 color gradient test kit guesses relayed as fact:
-how would precision nitrate and phosphate turning fare if there were no low range digital meters, all those dinos threads depend on precision tuning of nitrate and phosphate.
-how would chemistry models that require accurate pH be affected if we repealed all digital tracking and calibration and only allowed tank planning based on api or red sea pH kits
only cycling is expected to always believe the non digital test kit.
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can you clarify for me
are those red/purple rocks painted dry rock set in, or was that real live rock from a pet store, pigmented due to water submersion and benthic growths attached such as coralline etc
are those red/purple rocks painted dry rock set in, or was that real live rock from a pet store, pigmented due to water submersion and benthic growths attached such as coralline etc
that is such a powerful insulator against ammonia issues I have an entirely separate thread dedicated to studying it
www.reef2reef.com
the purpose of that thread is we can take pictures of any tank running pet store live rock and tell if it can carry a planned bioload off solely the tank picture and the known rock history/where it came from. the answer is always going to be yes, it can carry the bioload is the trick
it's an easy thread to run because any arrangement anyone ever posts is going to be a great looking reef tank cycled that has no problem carrying fish. it's what reef tank demos at the convention are built on
your tank doesn't veer from that rule
wheregoes live rock goes a skip cycle, you don't need much. your bioload isn't much.
that live rock alone would have skip cycled that small bioload in that dilution, not counting your bottle bac nor the extra white rock surface area given as many days to accumulate bacteria. this is compound cycled
there is no mechanism in place to explain 1 ppm true ammonia knowing that detail. this is me making a case to chemists reading. we routinely work with live rock in order to assess its position in cycling without using any other supports. live rock transfers are the ideal cycle in my opinion above all other ways.
*very large work threads showing other reef tanks using grouped methods of cycling indicate your tank is likely to follow suit, you did a compound cycle of live rock and dry. we know how those work out
A thread tracking pure skip cycle instant reefs, no bottle bac
I'm at river city Aquatics in Austin rn Now this is skip cycle live rock If kept wet in saltwater it will not: Starve Get uncycled Fail to skip cycle Cause a mini cycle See all the coralline The bottom of the tank has pods and micro brittle stars, all healthy proof of being cycled with no...
www.reef2reef.com
the purpose of that thread is we can take pictures of any tank running pet store live rock and tell if it can carry a planned bioload off solely the tank picture and the known rock history/where it came from. the answer is always going to be yes, it can carry the bioload is the trick
it's an easy thread to run because any arrangement anyone ever posts is going to be a great looking reef tank cycled that has no problem carrying fish. it's what reef tank demos at the convention are built on
your tank doesn't veer from that rule
wheregoes live rock goes a skip cycle, you don't need much. your bioload isn't much.
that live rock alone would have skip cycled that small bioload in that dilution, not counting your bottle bac nor the extra white rock surface area given as many days to accumulate bacteria. this is compound cycled
there is no mechanism in place to explain 1 ppm true ammonia knowing that detail. this is me making a case to chemists reading. we routinely work with live rock in order to assess its position in cycling without using any other supports. live rock transfers are the ideal cycle in my opinion above all other ways.
*very large work threads showing other reef tanks using grouped methods of cycling indicate your tank is likely to follow suit, you did a compound cycle of live rock and dry. we know how those work out
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the chemists have your clear pH readings above to factor nh3 expression given the details in your thread. nh3 is all that matters in reefing, nh4 doesn't
those readings above are nh4
if we imagine that color gradient ten times lessened...we get really close to matching no physical symptoms in the tank too
those readings above are nh4
if we imagine that color gradient ten times lessened...we get really close to matching no physical symptoms in the tank too
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@BHartwig
right now on the board there are cycles being ran by old cycling science and they're on wait week #8, that's eight weeks of waiting, and on the fourth bottle of bacteria coming up and solely because the red sea ammonia test kit does not say zero they're having him buy even more bottles of bacteria. it's pure torture
for contrast can you post today's ammonia reading as a pic, we know the tank is still ok as it was yesterday/that's how all days will be/ we just need that updated ammonia pic to give people a 1% chance at happiness
it should get lighter and lighter over the next several days because we never blasted your initial cycle so full of ammonia it errored the kit forever from that same water column
other interferences are affecting his kit, it's not raw ammonia, there are no eight week cycling charts.
people who see your thread are getting to see a totally opposite method of cycling, it's rare, the old method rules about 98% of the time and it's a horrible method that sells five bottles of bacteria to anyone who uses an unverified cheap test kit to monitor progress
nobody speaks of disease preps as they hyperfocus on ammonia
you didn't have to buy anything here, your animals are perfectly fine, that's the new method in contrast. I don't expect your kit to go to zero, I expect it to go from dark to light green and then stop/that's what red sea reads on the majority of years long running tanks. the zero readings are the outlier.
right now on the board there are cycles being ran by old cycling science and they're on wait week #8, that's eight weeks of waiting, and on the fourth bottle of bacteria coming up and solely because the red sea ammonia test kit does not say zero they're having him buy even more bottles of bacteria. it's pure torture
for contrast can you post today's ammonia reading as a pic, we know the tank is still ok as it was yesterday/that's how all days will be/ we just need that updated ammonia pic to give people a 1% chance at happiness
it should get lighter and lighter over the next several days because we never blasted your initial cycle so full of ammonia it errored the kit forever from that same water column
other interferences are affecting his kit, it's not raw ammonia, there are no eight week cycling charts.
people who see your thread are getting to see a totally opposite method of cycling, it's rare, the old method rules about 98% of the time and it's a horrible method that sells five bottles of bacteria to anyone who uses an unverified cheap test kit to monitor progress
nobody speaks of disease preps as they hyperfocus on ammonia
you didn't have to buy anything here, your animals are perfectly fine, that's the new method in contrast. I don't expect your kit to go to zero, I expect it to go from dark to light green and then stop/that's what red sea reads on the majority of years long running tanks. the zero readings are the outlier.
MB_Reef
Active Member
Yesterday’s readings were:
Ammonia ~2ppm (unchanged)
Nitrite 1-5ppm (Unchanged)
Nitrates ~40ppm (increased)
everything looks great, fish eating well, duncan coral remains open. Anemone decided to move spots.
may do my weekly water change to help with nitrates.
picture is from today. But readings are from last night.
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EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal
Just another girl who likes fish
I have not read the entire thread but I would strongly recommend changing to another LFS if this one sold you an anemone for a brand new tank... That's a mistake a new reefer might make but not someone who is in the business of offering advice and guidance. They are either very inexperienced themselves or just wanted to make a sale at the expense of the animals (and your wallet). I also agree that the nem looks bleached. Afaik, there are no "ultra white" nems... yours has lost its zooxanthellae and is not healthy.
MB_Reef
Active Member
I wish I had known when I first started. Doing my best to feed every 2-3 days and maintain water parameters as much as I can.
2 different lfs both told me that the color is normal, but many people on here say that it is bleached.
EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal
Just another girl who likes fish
I wouldn't feed anything but the fish, and then only sparingly. The corals don't need to be target feed and will do fine without. I agree that your test results are worrisome... Do you have access to a different test kit? (And are you sure the one you have doesn't have expired reagents?)
EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal
Just another girl who likes fish
I admittedly am not familiar with every type of anemone that exists so they may be correct, but NO self respecting fish store sells an anemone to someone with a tank that's barely (or not even) cycled. It's not even a matter of ammonia, it's that nems need more stable mature tanks.
EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal
Just another girl who likes fish
Also, stop feeding it!
MB_Reef
Active Member
Why do you say stop feeding the nem? It eats well each time and I was told that eating is an important aspect of rehabing color in the anemone forum.
i have the seachem ammonia test kit and badge that both ready 0 for ammonia.
EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal
Just another girl who likes fish
Also, the nem doesn't look like the type that typically hosts clowns, so if you got it hoping it will, that'd another reason to return it to the store and get your $ back.
*You are new and learning, and it's maddening that the people who should have helped you seem to have lied to you instead. I know you're doing what you can, so I hope you don't take my comments as criticism toward you.
*You are new and learning, and it's maddening that the people who should have helped you seem to have lied to you instead. I know you're doing what you can, so I hope you don't take my comments as criticism toward you.
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