New Tank Cycling Question

[MB_Reef]

I have a new 10g saltwater aquarium. This was upgraded from a 2.5g tank after realizing that it was way to difficult to take care of. I was instructed to use new water (RO/DI) and new sand, so that's what I did. I was told to add 1 cup of old sand into the new aquarium and dose the tank with a capful of seachem stability product for 7 days. There is a green star polp frag, long tentacle anemone, and a tube anemone transferred from the old tank.

Today is day 10 and here are my parameters:

Nitrite: Between 0 and 0.25ppm (Not 0, has some slight purple)
Nitrate: between 5-10ppm
pH: 8
Ammonia (using API total ammonia, total ammonia): about 0.5ppm
Ammonia (using Seachem test kit to measure free ammonia only): 0ppm

I was told I could add fish at any time within those 7 days using stability, but don't want to risk it. Today is the first day I have seen nitrite levels, although I haven't tested it since day 2.

Should I wait longer before adding fish?
Why am I seeing 0.5ppm total ammonia levels but 0ppm for "free ammonia" levels?

I also have brown algea growing all over the sand and rock. Do I need to do anything about this?

Thanks!

 

[brandon429]

we can do more with 1 clear tank pic on your new setup than all that non digital testing. post a tank pic and I'll break down your exact cycle status knowing those details above.

the nh4/nh3 conflicts you're seeing is a nice clue detection, that drives folks crazy, makes them add all kinds of guessing additives. your cycle is done, and if it's not it'll be the first I've seen not done in years given your leadup here.

what those non digital test kits read will factor 0% in the analysis coming up based on one recent full tank pic. from that I'm looking at surface area, dilution to bioload ratios compared to hundreds of other nanos we've seen over the years, water clarity, corals open vs closed and lastly the kinds of growths you have in the system you've mentioned.

cycled tanks look very differently than uncycled tanks, considering you're already reefing in the current setup. it's not a brand new setup, its a tank transfer setup.

 

[MB_Reef]

Here are pictures. GSP is usually opened and was earlier today but is closed for some reason right now

 

[MB_Reef]

we can do more with 1 clear tank pic on your new setup than all that non digital testing. post a tank pic and I'll break down your exact cycle status knowing those details above.

the nh4/nh3 conflicts you're seeing is a nice clue detection, that drives folks crazy, makes them add all kinds of guessing additives. your cycle is done, and if it's not it'll be the first I've seen not done in years given your leadup here.

what those non digital test kits read will factor 0% in the analysis coming up based on one recent full tank pic. from that I'm looking at surface area, dilution to bioload ratios compared to hundreds of other nanos we've seen over the years, water clarity, corals open vs closed and lastly the kinds of growths you have in the system you've mentioned.

cycled tanks look very differently than uncycled tanks, considering you're already reefing in the current setup. it's not a brand new setup, its a tank transfer setup.

Thank you very much for your input. I have posted pics below

 

[SkinngGinnie]

I cycled my Fluval Evo using Dr Tim's and added 2 clown fish the next day. I also dosed the stability and I had bad dynos Microbacteria7 worked. took a good 6 months to really cycle.

 

[brandon429]

it's not possible to have more cycling bac into the system than it does now, so adding more isn't going to help. adding anything that fosters a cycle isn't going to help, you have a dry rock system that is going to go through the uglies for months on end now, after ammonia cycling is done.

cycling and maturation are different things, cycling is for the ability to process ammonia, carry fish, and your tank has that we can see due to those growths. anytime a tank has been running long enough to get any of those new growths, the cycling bac came and were ready first.

Those growths are a sign of proof that your tank has been running long enough to have basic ammonia control in place, it can carry fish but they won't be happy because that's a stark white system, they'll be fed dry basic LFS foods which is like fast food diets for humans, and they're subject to disease outbreaks not from inability to carry ammonia but from being in what looks like a scary hospital type setup with no hiding places and bright/reflective surfaces that don't look like a reef yet.

the best thing you could possibly do is change out all that rock for several pounds of coralline cured real live rock from a pet store, it looks like this

can you get any of that type of rock?

if not, that's ok, but your system is going to look wrecked for months as white rocks mature slowly, painfully, into that below which is purple, cured, not covered in mess, and looks like a reef. I bet it would cost you fifty bucks to replace all that white rock with true skip cycle live rock above, can you find any of this type

 

[brandon429]

you are done cycling the tank, you need to change the water for clean saltwater, and be siphoning off all that mess from the rocks and sand so that none is present in the next update pics. or, you just change those covered rocks for the cured coralline rocks above, they skip the cycle, and your tank instantly looks like a reef and it will function better too.

 

[MB_Reef]

you are done cycling the tank, you need to change the water for clean saltwater, and be siphoning off all that mess from the rocks and sand so that none is present in the next update pics. or, you just change those covered rocks for the cured coralline rocks above, they skip the cycle, and your tank instantly looks like a reef and it will function better too.

i appreciate your input. I will do a water change. How much should I change? 50%?

i wanted to go with live rock but my LFS only had huge rocks that would have been way to big for my tank. I will keep checking their supply of live rock. Would it be okay to replace rock after fish have been added?

 

[brandon429]

buy a huge rock, smash it into pieces with a hammer

can you do that

the % water change does not matter: being cycled means you can do 1%-100% and not strip off the bacteria. you need to be siphoning out that invasion and using as many replacement gallons of sw it takes to make the tank look perfectly clean, then lower the light levels a bunch to hopefully begin lessening the growback. it's not ready for fish yet even though it can process their ammonia for sure.

 

[MB_Reef]

buy a huge rock, smash it into pieces with a hammer

can you do that

the % water change does not matter: being cycled means you can do 1%-100% and not strip off the bacteria. you need to be siphoning out that invasion and using as many replacement gallons of sw it takes to make the tank look perfectly clean, then lower the light levels a bunch to hopefully begin lessening the growback. it's not ready for fish yet even though it can process their ammonia for sure.

Are their digital tests that you recommend? Also how would I know when it’s ready for fish?

 

[YOYOYOReefer]

i would leave your rock and add some real live rock with corraline on it to your tank. then keep your parameters at reef levels for alk and calcium . The net effect will be you will grow out some corraline algae it will spread

 

[MB_Reef]

@brandon429

Here is an updated picture and video. I was able to get some live rock, a bigger chuck on the right and some smaller pieces. Re-arranged rocks. Planning to add a little more live rock but not sure if I should. Also added the 2 clowns 4 days ago, lfs said I should be good to have fish now.

Included a picture of API test kit. Also listed the values below if is hard to read. I know I need to be hesitant when trusting these values with this kit. I plan on getting digital testing but that will have to come later. But should I be worried about the ammonia levels and nitrite?

Ammonia: 2 ppm
Nitrite: 0.25 ppm
Nitrate: 10 ppm
pH: 8
Temp: ~75 F

I am using a Marineland 100 HOB filter with the penguin power filter cartridges made for the filter. I believe these filter cartridges have carbon in them and wasn't sure if I should be using these or not. Or if I should add other filter media or material instead or in addition to that.

I did a water change last time we posted on here, sucking as much of that algae as I could and changed out that filter in the HOB.

 

[brandon429]

I know it sounds crazy to just hold course but I will stay active on the thread to watch you hold it, fully predicting those fish can't live two days, ten days or twenty in an uncycled tank.


*if it helps any in reassurance, check this out below. That's the exact same ammonia reading above that this thread has here below, same color, but seneye is benchmarked on a fully running nano reef at .04 nh3 ammonia, which is proven safe because that nano reef was a year old with happy fish

so that color is directly linked to happy fish, and this guy's rare calibrated seneye that says not toxic = .04

api is that messed up by moving things around, stirring up organics, anything really it seems. but it's not really an ammonia crash, the LFS is correct

*don't react to nitrite, it's neutral in all display reefing. if you will hold course, add nothing, and each day post pics showing the fish / report to us any health changes + the test readings we can track this in our updated cycling science thread on new trending. the trending is, that api above has caused two million people to buy 2 more bottles of cycling bac, it's a lark is the prediction. if that's wrong and your whole setup is dead by tomorrow then I'm on the hook for asking to hold course


but I predict how they've been acting means the tank is cycled.

New Cycle - Seneye vs API

Hello All, Have just started to cycle a new DD ReefPro 900. Am using Fritzzyme Fishless food and Turbo Start and am 2 days in. I have dosed twice with Fishless food on the back of the seneye readings which are as follows: But the API result seems to be showing a different story. I`ve seen a...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[brandon429]

*your thread is a very very important one for us to track because you're encountering what the masses will encounter: seemingly stuck cycles. if updated cycling science can't be predictable then it's useless, holding course allows us to hone that prediction aspect plus it would be embarrassing if my advice killed your tank so there's a lot on the line agreed.

*can you post a tank shot in all white light, the blue masks small details we see occasionally that helps us make predictions

I'm also checking to see if fish were added to a clean or an invaded system with those pics.

 

[brandon429]

I am having the chemistry forum track this advice currently as well, this thread can have some eyes on it.

 

[MB_Reef]

I know it sounds crazy to just hold course but I will stay active on the thread to watch you hold it, fully predicting those fish can't live two days, ten days or twenty in an uncycled tank.


*if it helps any in reassurance, check this out. That's the exact same ammonia reading above that this thread has here below, same color, but seneye is benchmarked on a fully running nano reef at .04 nh3 ammonia, which is proven safe because that nano reef was a year old with happy fish

so that color is directly linked to happy fish, and this guy's rare calibrated seneye that says not toxic = .04

api is that messed up by moving things around, stirring up organics, anything really it seems. but it's not really an ammonia crash, the LFS is correct

*don't react to nitrite, it's neutral in all display reefing. if you will hold course, add nothing, and each day post pics showing the fish / report to us any health changes + the test readings we can track this in our updated cycling science thread on new trending. the trending is, that api above has caused two million people to buy 2 more bottles of cycling bac, it's a lark is the prediction. if that's wrong and your whole setup is dead by tomorrow then I'm on the hook for asking to hold course


but I predict how they've been acting means the tank is cycled.

New Cycle - Seneye vs API

Hello All, Have just started to cycle a new DD ReefPro 900. Am using Fritzzyme Fishless food and Turbo Start and am 2 days in. I have dosed twice with Fishless food on the back of the seneye readings which are as follows: But the API result seems to be showing a different story. I`ve seen a...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[MB_Reef]

@brandon429

Attached are pictures and video with all white lights.

I will hold course with changes and can post updates. Is there any other parameters that are helpful?

 

[brandon429]

it's important not to add Prime, or more bottle bac, or anything considered bacterial support or old cycling science will seize upon that to claim as the parachute

if you hold course and gauge everything on what both fish do, not just one (allow for a single fish to have other issues as animals can have, ammonia acts on all life vs select) then your thread becomes a very very important building block to the study of updated cycling science: can a foundational test kit the hobby has used for thirty years be dead wrong and causing cycling disarray

I say yes, yes it can. if your fish are alive in another four days that's just not possible to go eight days in poison water acting normal, breathing normal, feeding normal.

 

[brandon429]

@BHartwig

you cleaned that tank that well? I'm so grateful to see that. you've commanded this start, that's shocking. that's total resolve in action.

 

[MB_Reef]

@BHartwig

you cleaned that tank that well? I'm so grateful to see that. you've commanded this start, that's shocking. that's total resolve in action.

Thank you. Will hold course with no additives and post updates.