New IM 150 EXT build. Diving into the deep end of the pool
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Does anyone use this inkbird? The only downside I see is you can’t use redundant heaters like a lot of people do with tanks this size. The only other way I’ve found to control cooling without investing in a controller is a smart plug on a timer.
inkbird.com
Digital Temperature Controller ITC-308 WIFI With Aquarium Probe
【Heating and Cooling】Controls both a heating and cooling/refrigeration device at the same time. This controller can also be used to easily control a single heating or cooling device. 【Applicable Scene】Because it has the powerful function of corrosion protection, it is very suitable for fresh...
inkbird.com
Also got some Marco rock in as seen in the last photo. Aquascaping might be my least favorite part of this hobby.
I’m starting to plan out my plumbing. As I said, this will be my first time plumbing a tank. I’ll have a wye check valve on either return line, but other than those, all other valves will be under the tank. A gate on the primary, a ball on the secondary and a ball on the short side of the return. Also a union on either end of the horizontal sections for disassembly. See the very crude sketch below.
I’m starting to plan out my plumbing. As I said, this will be my first time plumbing a tank. I’ll have a wye check valve on either return line, but other than those, all other valves will be under the tank. A gate on the primary, a ball on the secondary and a ball on the short side of the return. Also a union on either end of the horizontal sections for disassembly. See the very crude sketch below.
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BubblesandSqueak
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looks like you're planning sump front. what's going in the back? you have an extra foot width than mine but I did sump back with ATO reservoir upfront and skimmer waste collector left.
the rock scape is much easier when its dry and you can sit there and keep moving it etc...Mine is not glued but glad I got large rocks to fit together. I did have to adjust it last week due to growth rate to make the 3rd size cave.
Seems to me that having that extra foot of space in the front would make it hard to do anything in the sump, so yeah it’s slid forward as far as I could get it. Behind it on one side will be a PVC box that I’ll build for wiring/controllers. Ato and Kalk redevoir on the other side. I used the shelf that came with but put it up high so hand tools can go on that, and plumbing supports can attach to the bottom.
BubblesandSqueak
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This 10 gal ATO Res is 10x15 for the footprint.
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Well, the lumber arrived for the floor reinforcements and I started laying out the precise location of the tank. Turns out there’s both plumbing and HVAC blocking my supports that I didn’t realize were in the way before. Project is on hold.
Selling everything off and going with something smaller may be on the table.
Selling everything off and going with something smaller may be on the table.
While working on moving things around so I can support the floor, I’ve ran into a couple other disappointments. I’m starting the think the overflow box might be too small to have a proper bean animal overflow. I’m not for sure yet but I haven’t been able to find an example of one yet.
A bigger disappointment yet is realizing that the back glass is 7/8” thick with the acrylic panel used for the weir, which eliminates most of the options for power heads.
One of my biggest peeves with my current setup is that I can’t mound power heads to the back panel. It probably would have been a dealbreaker if I had known about it sooner.
I looked back at IMs website and can’t find anywhere that the back thickness is listed, which would explain why I didn’t catch this before ordering.
A bigger disappointment yet is realizing that the back glass is 7/8” thick with the acrylic panel used for the weir, which eliminates most of the options for power heads.
One of my biggest peeves with my current setup is that I can’t mound power heads to the back panel. It probably would have been a dealbreaker if I had known about it sooner.
I looked back at IMs website and can’t find anywhere that the back thickness is listed, which would explain why I didn’t catch this before ordering.
BubblesandSqueak
Valuable Member
so you now would be looking at MP60, or suctions cups. I haven't tried but do both magnets need to be same pull? What about a much higher powered magnet in the back side on a Nero? Personally I don't mind my MP40's on the sides. I'd prefer side to side flow than everything blowing at the front. Don't fish like to swim into the current? I'd be looking at their tails all the time ;-)
Yeah but MP 60s would be too much flow, and 4 to get flow throughout the tank is more than I’m willing to spend. Plus I’m not interested in any apature products. I watched horizon hobby do this with my other hobby, so I won’t be helping BRS do the same to this one.
What suction cup options are there? This is news to me.
I saw someone on your thread post about sea sweeps and tunze heads. That looking pretty good right now…
My 2 Sea Sweeps with Tunze 6255's in my ext 170. 1 Sweep and a 6255 runs $100 more than a mp60. You would only need 2. They are not cheap but they are all the random flow you need. Cord runs through the sweep.
BubblesandSqueak
Valuable Member
glad you made contact. was getting ready to tag you on this.My 2 Sea Sweeps with Tunze 6255's in my ext 170. 1 Sweep and a 6255 runs $100 more than a mp60. You would only need 2. They are not cheap but they are all the random flow you need. Cord runs through the sweep.
Heck with my shorter tank, the 6105’s should do it even. Thanks so much for sharing.My 2 Sea Sweeps with Tunze 6255's in my ext 170. 1 Sweep and a 6255 runs $100 more than a mp60. You would only need 2. They are not cheap but they are all the random flow you need. Cord runs through the sweep.
Lots of progress yesterday. Rock scape is done. My strategy was to stand rocks up on ends and create TP like structures. This means there is minimal contact points between the rock and the glass, so minimal places for detritus buildup. It also creates all kinds of caverns to swim through and hide in, and should allow for maxim flow.
The supporting structure is now complete. You could park a truck in my dining room.
And finally, water!
The supporting structure is now complete. You could park a truck in my dining room.
And finally, water!
@BubblesandSqueak @X-37B What did you do with your standpipes in the overflow box? Seems the box is too small for a proper bean animal with the spacing they dilled the holes with. Did you leave the standpipes as is? Do you hear water trickle in the secondary?
BubblesandSqueak
Valuable Member
I left mine be. I run their Mighty XL at 70% and the drain in not fully open. Adjusted to about 1/2 way between primary and secondary and I don’t hear it. Sometimes I need to slightly tweak it closed/open more after a water change but just adjust it till you don’t get the vortex above the primary and keep it below the secondary. It will take a couple hours to properly adjust the first time.
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BubblesandSqueak
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You could mail a couple horizontal boards for sway strength and add a couple sheets of plywood for extra storage on your floor support. That’s what I did.Lots of progress yesterday. Rock scape is done. My strategy was to stand rocks up on ends and create TP like structures. This means there is minimal contact points between the rock and the glass, so minimal places for detritus buildup. It also creates all kinds of caverns to swim through and hide in, and should allow for maxim flow.
The supporting structure is now complete. You could park a truck in my dining room.
And finally, water!
nail, not mail
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I run mine with a trickle down the second and just below the emergency. It will take some adjusting until it builds up a biofilm in the pipes. I will take a pic when I get home tonight.
I do not run the supplied pump. I run a Tunze 1073.060.
I adjusted the 2 ball valves and then the gate to get it stable.
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